|Not sure what to get?|
This tutorial is graciously shared by Rona Phillips
I could get no in-depth help from anyone on how to work with transparencies and add them to resin jewelry. So I decided to learn this process myself and on my own. It took time through trial and error to get as far as I am now. Which is not that far! A lot of experiments went into the trash can. I tried different resins until I found one that worked wonderfully, thanks to Super Clear Resin. I still have problems with bubbles in the resin, but I am still working out the kinks. I tried different kinds of transparencies until I found one that works really well. So here it is for all the people who what to make their own Bangle and personalize it with transparencies. I do not sell any of my resin creations on line or anywhere else. I do it for the pure pleasure of doing it.
List of materials:
I make my own molds from forms I make from polymer clay. I make the forms to fit my exact wrist measurements. I also make the form very tall, so that way I can make small - medium - tall - or very tall bangles with one mold. I love very tall bangles that look almost like a bracer cuff. I also like my bangles very thin. If you do not make your own molds, you will have to decide on a mold to purchase. After you have decided on a mold, you will have to measure the inside of the mold. You will need to know the measurements for your transparency. You can use paper to make a template and tape the ends together to see if it fits inside of your mold.
You will have to choose a photo - sketch - painting - or art work that you want to use to print onto the transparency. I do suggest that you use your own personal photos - sketch - painting - or art works. I would not use anyone else’s art work to print onto your transparency, due to copyright laws etc etc. If you plan on selling your pendants you will need to read up on copyright laws etc etc.
There are lots of different types of photo programs you can use to manipulate your photograph or artwork. I take photos or art work and manipulated them in two different photo programs I got for free on line. I intensify the colors and some times I used some cool effects. See my other tutorial on this web site called “Make your own resin pendant using transparencies”. I do suggest that you intensify the colors in your photo, so you can see them better in your bangle. After you are done with your photo manipulation, you will have to resize it so it will fit into your mold. I do suggest make enough photo’s to fill a full page up, so you do not waste any of the transparency sheets. When you are ready to print out on your transparencies, make sure go to printing preferences and change the features. Other transparency films - Best - portrait - Print in color - then click on OK. Be sure to print on the correct side of the transparency. There is only one side you can print on. It will not be the shiny slick side; it will be the textured side that you print on. This is very important!
After I print out my transparencies, I let them sit over night in place fuzz and lint can not get on them. This is probably not necessary, but I take no chances. Measure out your transparency and cut it out.
You will then have to cut out a very thin strip of a transparency, to glue the bangle transparency together into a circle.
I use a small Teflon sheet to tape the small transparency strip to. Make sure if you use words, they are face down.
I then take a scrap piece of the transparency and mix up epoxy according to instructions.
Take very small amount onto your tooth pick, and spread across your thin strip that you have taped down. Just a thin bead down the length of the strip will be ok.
Take your transparency strip for your bangle and grab on to the side of each end with both hands. Form a circle with it and lay the ends on to the thin strip with the epoxy on it. Hold it where the two ends meet together on the thin strip. When you get it where you want it, hold it until it dries. With epoxy, it wil l only be about 5 min or less. You will only see me use one hand, but I had to take the picture with my other hand. LOL
After it dries you will have to cut off the tabs. Carefully remove the tape from Teflon sheet, along with the transparency. You will need to cut the tabs off flush.
After this is done, I usually let it sit overnight. I have a different transparency ready to go, while this one sits overnight. It is a different color than the one you just seen me make, with little hearts instead of the words Love. I have my pretty pink superfine glitter ready to go also. I made this pretty pink transparency previously, to match one of my shirts.
I take my mold and put wax paper underneath it. This makes for easy clean up. I also put on rubber gloves for my own protection. Make sure it is not to cold in the room when you’re pouring the resin. When I pour resin I have the temperature around 74 degrees. Mix up your resin according to the instructions that came with your Super Clear Resin. Add glitter to your desired amount. Warning, too much glitter will some times prevent the transparency from shining through. After I mix it up, I always let it rest around 5 minutes.
Make sure before you do your pouring, that you spray your mold with a releasing agent and let dry. I pour about ½ inch into my mold before I insert the transparency. I then insert my transparency into my mold. It should fit in the mold with ease. It should have a small space inside and outside the transparency.
The transparency has a tendency to stick to the sides of the mold, so I use wooden skewers to keep this from happening. I place them one by one opposite of each other till I have enough of them so the transparency does not stick to the sides of the mold. You will have to experiment to see what will fit between your transparency and your mold. You may only need a tooth pick. I insert them on the inside and not the outside of my transparency. Be careful not to get it to tight and risk ripping your transparency where you previously glued it together.
When I go to pour my resin, I pinch the side of the cup to get more control of the pour. Pour a little at a time so as it gets to the top of the transparency it will slowly pour into both inside and outside of the transparency. Try not to over fill too much, just enough that it goes over the top of the transparency. Then slowly one by one on the opposite side, remove the wooden skewers. If you want to save the resin t hat is on the skewers, try scraping them off into your resin cup with a wooden Popsicle stick or the side of your cup.
After you remove your skewers, take the flat end of one of your skewers and carefully tap the top of your transparency on all sides. This is to make sure it is firmly on the bottom. It also will give you and idea of if you need to pour more resin so none of the transparency is peaking out.
I do let it sit at least 24 hours before I pop it out. Take your time to loosen it on the inside and outside before you try to take it out of your mold. If you find it difficult to remove, put it under the faucet and run water in it. Some times a little bit of Dawn will help. When it comes out it will look a bit frosted. As you can see, I way over poured my resin. Which means a lot of sanding is in order.
Sand under water with a dash of Dawn, with wet dry sand paper 400-600-800-1500. After you have finished sanding, use the Novus Plastic Polish System 1-2-3. After a lot of sanding and polishing, this is the final look.
Here in this window shot, you can see the glitter a bit better. I hope this helps anyone who wanted to do transparencies in resin.
*hugz* Rona Phillips
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