12 reasons why your resin didn’t cure

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resin troubleshooting

Why didn’t my resin cure properly?

This is a problem that resin newbies and seasoned professionals alike run into from time to time. Here are a few trouble areas where you should evaluate in case you’re asking yourself, “Why is my resin sticky?”

1. How old is your resin? We recommend only purchasing enough resin that you can comfortably use within 6 months of purchase. Eventually, moisture may collect in your bottles, which will affect how it cures.

2. Are you keeping your resin in a climate controlled environment? If the temperature changes a lot, moisture will collect on the inside of the lids which can drip into your resin and affect cure hardness.

3. Did you measure it properly? I know some people will talk about a little more of this, or a little less of that, but the Resin Obsession super clear resin mixes as two parts resin to one part hardener.  If you’re using another brand of resin, follow directions exactly.

4. Did you mix it thoroughly? This is usually where I have goofed. You need to mix the resin well, scraping your sides and your mixing utensil as you go. (There is a video about proper mixing of resin at the bottom of this post.)

5. Were your mixing cups dry? If you had reused them, was there any leftover residue?

6. Are your inclusions completely dry? For example, while pastel powders can add some great colors to inclusions, they also attract moisture. If possible, dry your pigments in a 150 degree oven for a few hours next time before adding to your resin.

7. What was the temperature of the room you were making your resin project in? Was it at least 70 degrees? Was your resin warm as well (i.e. not cold like keeping in refrigerator or something)?

8. Did you mix it in the proper ratios? Always read the directions! Don’t assume that all resins are 1:1, 2:1, etc.

9. Were both components of the resin from the same batch? I don’t know if this makes a big difference, but I always try to use the epoxy and hardener that came together in the same kit versus using leftovers from one kit with materials from a new one.

10. Did you mix the minimum amount? For example, the minimum amount of Resin Obsession super clear resin that should be mixed is 10 ml of resin and 5 ml of hardener. That amount must be mixed in order for the proper chemical reaction to occur.

11. Are you using a latex mold? Sometimes, resins do not like latex and may not fully cure.

12. Make sure any mold release agent is completely dry before pouring resin into that mold.

What other suggestions and tips do you have?

You may also be interested in our video on How to properly mix epoxy resin for jewelry making

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117 Comments

bonnie

I see from from your article why my resin did not cure and thank you. My question is how can I remove the tacky resin and image from bezel so I can reuse…thanks

Reply
Katherine Swift

Bonnie,

I have moved your question to our forum under ‘whoops’ to answer.

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Dee

Hi, i am using Pebeo Glazing resin and every so often a batch will dry with a crinkle on the surface or even go a little frosted. I cannot figure out why, i have tried pouring in different rooms, at different temperatures etc. Can you shed any light? Could it be that im not mixing it for long enough? I have looked at all you suggested for ‘curing’ but do not have a problem with that aspect, just sometimes a non shiney finnish!! Its very frustrating so any tips would help, thanks Dee (from the UK)

Reply
Katherine Swift

Dee,

I don’t have any experience with that product. I will post your question in the forum. Perhaps someone else can help.

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Jessica

Hi, I have an additional comment: Sometimes, you cannot calculate how old is your resin, not all of the manuafturers include a date in label, but I have found that old resin turns components foggy (it can be both, the resin or hardener). Something that also helps, is to get the resin a little warm, just enough to avoid bubbles. You can also make your silicone molds a litlle warm in the microwave, but never hot.I hope this helps! And thank you for your comments, they helped me a lot!

Reply
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Fiona

Thanks Katherine, Ive heard people say that they have polished their resin (perhaps removing surface scratches was the wrong question) what can be used to polish it? My hubby has a cloth buffing wheel on his lathe but wasn’t sure if that was the right tool or what to use with it i.e. a polish or something.

Im confused as to what everyone on youtube has used their coasters for if its not suitable for hot drinks :-( very disappointed. Do you know of anything similar that performs in a similar way but would resist the heat? I want something that I can set things into and finishes clear.

Thanks so much, your website is very informative

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Fiona

Is it possible to make a hot drinks coaster using resin? I’ve seen it on youtube but my experiments so far are failing either because of remaining tacky (poss. not enough catalyst) or one that hardened then became sticky once a hot cup was placed on it.
Also how do you buff surface scratches etc without dulling the finish?

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Katherine

Fiona,

A very hot cup will most likely warp or make a mark on a resin coaster. You can try sanding your coaster down and recoating with another layer of resin. If it’s made from epoxy resin, you won’t be able to buff scratches out.

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Katherine

Fiona,

You can polish polyester resin (it’s very hard) with a polishing/buffing wheel and the appropriate compound. Unfortunately, epoxy resin is too soft to do that with.

As for the coasters, I would put a mug with hot coffee in it on the coaster, but I wouldn’t take a mug that had just come out of the microwave with boiling water in it and put it on the coaster. As long as the mug isn’t too hot, the coaster should be fine. I suppose others are putting their favorite adult frosty beverage on them as well.

Glad to know you find our articles helpful!

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Fiona

Katherine your reply gives me hope again! Thank you! I think what I have is polyester resin – although I’m a little fuzzy on how to tell the difference as they both (polyester/epoxy) seem to be a combination of resin & hardener or catalyst. I have the type that has a tiny bottle of catalyst to large bottle of resin.

I’m thinking that my tackiness is possibly due to the mix not being quite right yet and perhaps not leaving the product long enough to really cure and cool.

The cup I tried wasn’t hot it just had hot tea in it but I think these other issues may be the route of it.

Just one more thing – what would be the correct compound for polishing with the buffing wheel?

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Katherine

Fiona, based upon what you are telling me, it sounds like you used polyester. (Epoxy is usually closer to a 2:1 or 1:1 mix). Is your tackiness on the casted surface that was exposed to air? Unfortunately, that is what happens when you use polyester. The good news is that layer is very thin and can be sanded down (just enough to get off the stickiness) and polished. When I polish polyester, I use Fabulustre. (don’t know if you can get that where you’re at)

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Jamal

Thanks for your tips. I want to add some of these notes to my technical writing. Do you know of any book or reference regarding the tips you mentioned here?

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Fiona

Hi Katherine – thanks for your post, I think you are right that it is a polyester resin although it is the non exposed to air side that seems tackiest (both sides are tacky though). Would I be better using an epoxy resin for this project?

I’ve run more tests using more catalyst and in a warmer temperature, the curing was quicker and I thought I was onto a winner but unfortunately a cup of tea scuppered me again, marking the surface, sticking to the cup and making the coaster tacky (grrrr!)

I’ve read that a spray on acrylic or decoupage glue can be used as a sealer – do you know if this will help with the hot drink situation?

I will try and find Fabulustre although with the hassle I had sourcing resin in this country (UK) I won’t hold my breath!

Thanks again Katherine!

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Katherine

Fiona, an epoxy resin will be fine, but you won’t be able to polish it on a buffing wheel. It will melt! I don’t know that a decoupage glue will work to cover your coaster, but we do have a gloss sealer spray that works well. Unfortunately, we can’t send it to you in the UK. (It’s an aerosol.)

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Katherine Swift

@Jamal, These tips are based upon my personal experiences working with resin.

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Jennifer

I just used a two-part resin mix and followed the instructions, but the tops of my pieces are still tacky days later. Is there anything I can do to get them to dry or is it too late and I have to start over?

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Katherine Swift

Jennifer,

If it’s tacky like putting your finger on a piece of tape, you can recoat them with another layer of resin and they should be fine. If they are gooey though, there’s nothing you can do.

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Diane

I live in Hawaii where the humidity is usually in the 50-70 percent range and daytime temperatures are in the 80’s. I don’t really have a way to control indoor climate. Do you have any suggestions for getting the resin to properly cure? I’ve only attempted to make pendants using plastic molds one time, but almost all of them ended up tacky. If they come out tacky is there something I can use to harden the surface?

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Cat

i have a 4 in diameter/16 oz glass ornament (using mold release and breaking off glass after curing). I am looking at doing this in two parts to help the air bubbles escape through the small opening at the top of the ornament. My question is how many drops of catalyst do i need if im doing 8oz at a time?

I am using the Clear cast Polyester resin

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Katherine

@cat,

Great question! I’m going to move your question to the forum under ‘Resin Techniques’ and answer it there.

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gizem

I’m having a problem because I want to reuse my plastic andglass mixing containers, but I don’t know the best way to clean up resin residue?

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Katherine

@Gizem,

Wipe your containers and stir utensils while they are still wet with a paper towel and acetone. (Be sure to wear gloves when doing this.) If they have dried already, try soaking them with a very hot water and Tide laundry detergent.

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Jennifer

I have a question….I understand about the reason for things not curing right but myproblem was that I did a table and half of the table cured but the other half didn’t. so it really don’t make sense because it was all from the same resin, so how could some of it cure but some not?

Reply
Katherine

@Jennifer,

I’m guessing you started pouring at one side of the table then ended at the other? If so, I’m betting the very last bit of resin that was in the cup was not mixed well (i.e., the resin that was stuck to the side). Good news is that if it is only sticky on top (as opposed to gooey), you should be able to coat with another layer of resin to fix it.

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Steve

Hello I had a problem of the molds not releasing I used the mold relese and it still didn’t work? I made 8 of them and all of them are stuck in the molds?? Please help I need to get these finished before Christmas …..

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Jerry

Hello! I am currently experiencing problems with cups digging rings into my finished coasters. they dont feel tacky to the touch, yet it seems i can get them out by rubbing my fingers over them hard enough. Strange as they are fully cured and hard as rocks, and there is no sign of goey or displaced resin after doing this. Should I continue the process of cup settling and rubbing until the cup no longer digs into the epoxy? Or is there an evil force that prevents the digging all together that will ruin my coasters forever? I have two completed coasters and 6 in the first pour drying process now. I would hate to see all that work go to waste!

I apologize in advance as I dont have a computer to correctly view the forums, so an e-mail response would be greatly appreciated in addition to any other method you choose to address this issue if you find this helpful to others . Thank you!!!

BTW Im using easycast epoxy.

Reply
Katherine

@Jerry, relatively speaking, Easy Cast epoxy resin doesn’t cure as hard as some other resins. I would suggest switching to the Resin Obsession super clear resin or the Polyester casting resin also made by the manufacturers of Easy Cast.

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Katherine

@Kristen,

I have used Easy Cast a lot and have found that it works well for me. Regardless of the resin you use, I cannot stress how important it is to measure accurately AND mix thoroughly. I would suggest making sure you are doing those as perfectly as possible.

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Kristen

easy cast doesn’t look like a great product. I’ve had problems and searched for an answer finding lots of other ppl with the same problem. it never cured. has anyone had good luck with this product? most recommendations are, try a different product. i really don’t want to purchase anything else. can someone tell me the most important factor in having easycast cure properly. i have a bezel with paper background. id like pour in a thin layer of easycast and have a nice pendant.

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Carol

I have a bracelet mold and my resin did not harden. Is there a safe way to remove the resin so that I do not ruin my mold for future use?

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Katherine Swift

@Carol,

You can try placing the mold in the freezer for 5 to 10 minutes, then demolding. If that doesn’t work, then I would suggest soaking the mold in acetone. Soaking may damage the mold, so it’s a last resort process for me.

Reply
Katherine Swift

@Alicia,
Every resin is different. Alumilite recommends mixing at least 1/2 ounce each of resin and hardener for the Amazing Casting Resin.

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Courtney

One of the reasons as to why resin won’t cute all the way was because it wasn’t warm enough(if I interpreted that correctly). And I leave my resin molds in the dinning room to dry and it gets colder over night, would that be why I get sticky resin pieces?

Reply
Katherine

@Courtney, yes, that can be the reason. The room needs to be in the low 70’s F temperature in order for it to cure properly.

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Gen

What will happen if you pour a little bit of hardener than the resin? Will it cure? How long is the cure time?

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virginia

Hello, I just did resin for the first time on Saturday. It said let it cure for 24 to 48 hours. They seem like they aren’t getting hard. They are tacky on top and feel soft when I put my finger on it. I only added sparkles. Any idea?

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Katherine

@Virgina, my first thoughts are either that you didn’t mix the correct amounts or you didn’t mix it well.

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Katherine

@gen, you need to get it as close to what the manufacturer recommends as possible. Pouring in extra hardener will cause it to heat up too quickly and your pot time will be reduced.

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Jing

Hi, I find your article useful and relevant to what I am working now. How do I compute amount of hardener ito react with the resin if i will be combining two hardeners?

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Katherine Swift

@Jing, I would recommend going with EXACTLY what the manufacturer recommends. Don’t combine hardeners if that hardener is not the one designed to go with the resin you’re using.

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Espe

Hello, I need help, please. I am using eco exposy resin to coat my painting and it is not cured after two weeks. Any ideas what I could do ?? Thank you

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Katherine Swift

@Espe, if your resin is just a bit sticky, but otherwise firm, I would suggest coating with another layer of resin. If it’s goopy, unfortunately, there are no good options to fix it.

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Espe

Thank you for your answer. It is a little bit sticky in some parts but most of it it is dry and hard. I am just worry that it won’t cure on the same parts if I put another layer on but I dont know what else I could do.

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Jennifer

I am new to using resin but love the idea! However, my first attempt was with the “Easy Cast” product! I know that the measurements were correct but it still formed into a bendable piece. It was not tacky or sticky at all – just too pliable. When I went to drill a hole for a jump ring – I could see the piece bending with movement trough the drilling. However, it did not break – but I can bend it with my fingers. Is there another product that might result in a hard glass like finish. I want to use them as charms – Also is dried resin safe for animals – for such projects as a dog’s ID tag?

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Alex

Hello Katherine! I am making a clover embedded paperweight using casting craft clear polyester casting resin. My question is if I plan on using a glass cup as the mold and break it to free the cast, will the glass come off the mold still? I’m not sure how much it will stick without the use of a release agent. I only plan on making this one item so buying a release agent is something I’d rather not do (too much waste). Also, must the clovers be dried beforehand to prevent bubbles? Or maybe they are small enough to avoid the issue. Thanks for any guidance!

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Cheryl

I have not seen it mentioned that one reason for a tacky or sticky surface is the lack of wax in polyester resin. It is important to know whether the formulation you bought is ‘with wax’ or ‘without wax’. The resin ‘with wax’ cures to a non tacky finish, but requires scuffing of surface between coats. The ‘no wax’ polyester resin allows you to pour multiple layers without scuffing, but cures to a slighty tacky finish, requiring an additional coat of paste wax or gel coat.

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Elizabeth

Hi Katherine! Thank you so much for this website! It’s been so helpful. I am using an epoxy resin to cover 6″x6″ wood panels that have been prepped with gesso, a printed image and sealed. Some of my recent pieces cured and were head, but then started to get tacky. My question is how long is a safe amount of time to keep my finished pieces before selling them? I want to make sure I’m not selling anything that might become tacky. It seems that even if you are extremely careful with resin there is still a decent amount of room for quality issues. I’ve done approximately 30 pcs. Over the past few weeks and the tackiness is just starting to show up on some of the earlier pieces. Any advice/perspective is appreciated.

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Elizabeth

Luxe…. I liked it bc it doesn’t seem as toxic. Do you like this brand? Or can you recommend another? Thanks for your help

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Elizabeth

OK-I see on Etsy you carry a resin too. I’d like to ask you about this as well. Could you contact me directly? So I can ask more questions about your product? Thank you!

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Cherie

Hi, I have noticed that there are always alot of unavoidable microbubbles (not the larger surface ones) in my cured resin even though I hVe gotten rid of them in the initial curing stage. I have tried everything for the Easy Cast Resin from heating the resin and hardener to vibrating the mold manually. I would definitely appreciate the advice.

Thank you!

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Sandy

Thanks so much! I did a leaf for the table first and it came out perfectly smooth like glass and dry. Then I did the other 2 halves each separately. Measurements could have been a bit off and I think I tried to stretch it too far, it was harder to spread so I ended up with dimples in some center spots and that is where it is tacky. One half is mostly dry and not as dimpled as the other but I feel I should do both. Will probably wait a day to get an earlier start.

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Sandy

Katherine, I see where I can recoat a table with another layer if the top is tacky and not gooey. My question is, I’ve seen you should sand in between layers, but how do I sand if it is tacky? Part of the top is dry and part is tacky. Do I need to sand?
Thanks for your help!

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Sandy

Adding on to my previous post, it has been more than a day since putting the first coat.

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Katherine

@Sandy, you don’t need to sand it first if it’s a little tacky. On a side note, I would make sure you figure out why it cured tacky so as to avoid the problem the next time.

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sithara

Hello
I have not used my resin for a while but when i was about to use it the hardener is somewhat in jelly state, i was unable to mix it, can you please help me to make the hardener back to its original form

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Katherine

@Sithara, it sounds like your product is old. Unfortunately, it won’t go back to a liquid state again.

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Sara

Hi there! I’ve been casting resin in silicone ring/bangle molds and though they feel solid when demolded (24-28 hours later), within a few minutes of wear they are soft and pliable. Both Easy Cast Epoxy and Alumilite Clear Cast have left me with the same softened casts, even after properly heating, mixing and measuring. Do I need to allow them to cure longer? Is there a non-polyester resin that will give a rock-hard, clear and glassy finish, even with exposure to body heat? Trying to avoid polyester due to safety/stink. Thanks in advance!

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me

Should my resin be warm before start mixing because it stayed white even after 10 mins of mixing and i did use the right ratio (it was Alteco brand as far as i remember) because mine seemed thick not as liquid as the one you used (yes i’m a biginner lol)
Thanks

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Katherine

@me, I’m not familiar with that brand, so I would suggest asking that manufacturer for help.

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Sam

The resin I’ve used was old and now after 12 hours is still gooey. How long do I leave it before knowing it’s never going to cure?

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Katherine

@Sam, what is the cure time of your resin? You need to wait a day or two past the cure time to decide it’s not going to cure.

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Sam

Thanks Katherine! Would putting it in a pizza oven and upping the temp to 70/80 help or ruin it?
I’ve added phosphorescence and the piece glows spectacularly in the dark so I’m desperate for it to cure. Thanks again.

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Katherine

@Sam, it wouldn’t hurt, but generally that only speeds up curing of resin that’s going to cure anyway. If you do that, don’t use your oven for food again.

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Kate

I bought an unfinished wood box, poured glitter all over the bottom of the box and then used EnviroTex Lite Pour-On High Gloss Finish. I think I mixed even amounts, I mixed it for about 2 minutes before pouring and have waited a week. There are still some sticky spots (it’s not really gooey and it dried mostly hard). Is there something I can do to fix this? Is there a product I can use to fix it like a paint or something or should I try doing another layer and hope that this time it dries properly? Thank you for your help!

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Katherine

@Kate, if it’s just a couple sticky spots, I would recoat with another layer of resin.

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Andrea

Hi! I make custom coasters and have been having a problem with what looks like water spots after the resin sets on top of the paper. I have tried sealing with mod podge before hand but the spots still appear. Is there anything else I can try to get this issue to stop? It shows up more when I use a white background. Thanks!

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Andrea

Hi! I make custom coasters and have been having a problem with what looks like water spots after the resin sets on top of the paper. I have tried sealing with mod podge before hand but the spots still appear. Is there anything else I can try to get this issue to stop? It shows up more when I use a white background. Thanks!

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Katherine

@Andrea, I always coat with two layers of a clear drying glue before including in the resin.

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Stef

Hi! I tried making a new batch of candy-shaped pieces and it’s been a little over a week and the resin didn’t harden at all. I added no dyes to the resin. It’s more than tacky, it’s still a liquid. I looked through the reasons of why it didn’t cure and nothing seems to match. I’m positive I measured it 1:1, the temperature of the room it’s in is fine and consistent, the mold release was dry, et cetera. I’m really frustrated because I need some of the cavities with resin in it for another project and I have no idea when it will cure. Can anyone possibly help me? This isn’t the first time it happened (it happened only once before when I first got into this), but I was not able to figure out what I did wrong. Thanks if anyone can help me! (sorry if this sent twice. my internet isn’t great at the moment!)

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Katherine

@Stef, if it is still gooey, there wasn’t any heat produced to make it harden. Did you mix the minimum amount recommended by the manufacturer?

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Laura

Hello, I recently tried pouring resin into a glass bottle to have it cure inside, and it was doing fine until it started developing these odd air pockets at the top that ended up flowing through the resin toward the bottom of the bottle. I mixed the resin correctly, so not sure that was it, but I am unable to tell why it did this :( Could you help me figure out why my resin would do this?

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Katherine Swift

@Laura, mixing resin components together causes it to heat up, which is what allows it to cure. If it was a large volume of resin, I can see where the bubbles produced during the curing process couldn’t escape. I would suggest pouring in smaller volumes over several sessions to get your resin in the bottle to be bubble free.

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Ashley

Hi there! I have this problem.. and I’m not sure if its fixable. A while back I was pouring resin and a little spilled out of my cup onto the newspaper I had my molds sitting on out on the balcony and a carpenter ant flew into the spill. Felt a little sorry for it.. and since it was already dead and in resin I couldnt exactly dry it or seal it (not the issue) but I ended up putting it into a resin necklace. The tape I use for the bottom of my open back bezels had a lot of adhesive (I ended up changing tapes because of that) and it left indentions on the back of the piece so I poured a little white resin over it. Looked pretty darn good! Okay.. here’s where I screwed up. The bezel wasnt completely full since I was just using the little bit left over from my last batch. Decided I would go ahead and add a second layer and fill it to the top. Once it dried I was going to clean it like I do with all my bezel filled pendants.. and thats with (I know.. I know.. this is going to sound crazy) lighter fluid (because it doesn’t react with the resin and it was the only thing getting off the adhesive on the back) well my paper towel stuck to the front of the resin. We tried so many things and its clouded to hell and back. Finally after a stories worth, is there any way I can sand this sucker down and re pour? the ant is at the bottom so I am not worried about getting close to him.

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flo

great video thx.I’m trying to coat the inside of an orange with epoxy & I it keeps leaking down.I try swirling it but it takes so long to dry that it either accumulates in the bottom or leaks out
.any ideas ?thx

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Katherine

@flo, I’m afraid that’s the nature of resin. I would suggest searching for a resin that is designed for curved surfaces.

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Sue

Hello, I`m using Gedeo epoxy resin /2 parts/ and apparently didn`t use enough hardener as my jewels didn`t cure even after 6 days. They are sticky and not completely hard /if I touch it, it starts to move with my finger like chewing gum, but gets back to original shape after a few seconds/. Would it help to put another layer of resin? If so, shall I try to put more hardener in it to achieve the balance or pour just the right amount /2:1 as my guide says/. In case the second layer isn`t a good idea, do you have any idea how to save the jewels? Thank you very much in advance, I really appreciate your help.

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Katherine Swift

@Sue, your resin is sticky enough that another layer isn’t going to help. At this point, your best hope is to try to salvage your mold. You can try placing your mold in a freezer for 10 minutes or more. Hopefully, the resin will freeze so you can demold the gems.

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Tamara

Hi! My resin pieces were bendable after curing! Almost like rubber! I used the resin obsession resin and mixed the corrected ratios. Why could this of happened?

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Katherine

@Tamara, how thick were your castings? How much total resin did you mix?

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Tamara

They were the small rectangles in your earring mold. I only mixed 5 ml part A to 2.5ml part B. I only needed a small amount.

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Tamara

Hi Katherine, I have done it again and I was very careful with mixing etc and mixed the amounts you said and it’s still bending and soft!

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Tamara

I put in some confetti first along with some other pieces that were just glitter, let that cure over night which was fine but when I poured the resin mixed with glitter on the backs along with a few more pieces, they all were soft! :( I am getting disheartened. Could the type of plastic you mix in have anything to do with it?

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Katherine

@Tamara, if you are sure you measured the minimum amounts correctly, then the next thing I would check is that you mixed it thoroughly. You need to mix for two to three minutes, scraping the side of the cup and stir utensil several times during the process.

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norwin

i want to see if anyone can help me with my problem. my epoxy mixture for my sail boat kept getting heated up into a foam form within 15 minutes after mixing it. i used the 1:2 ratio. Anyone

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Katherine

@Norwin, it sounds like your mixture is getting too hot. I would suggest getting tech support from the manufacturer of your resin.

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Lianne

Hi there, at the moment I am making a sphere ball. But sometimes the bottom of the sphere won’t cure. Do you maybe have an idea how this is possible? I allready let it cure for 48 hours. The rest of the sphere is fully cured.
Thank you in advance all the way from The Netherlands

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Katherine

@Lianne, I have never used that brand of resin. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer for tech support.

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Angel

Hi! So I’m having a really annoying issue with small think scratches on my mold that transfer to my pieces and I have been trying to polish them out with the novus 1&2 system with no luck. Is there any way to get these annoying scratches out?

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Katherine

@Angel, if they are small scratches, they should go away if you recoat with another layer of resin.

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Patricia

I’ve done tons of experimenting, and made tons of mistakes, but, I’ve learned one important thing when working with resin: Denatured Alcohol is your friend!
1. It can be bought at any hardware store.
2. Quickly clean drippy resin edges before it dries.

3. Can help with resin that doesnt cure all the way within 3 days.

I’m not saying this is a cure all, but, if you have tacky resin surfaces from a non exacting mix, you can coat the tacky part with a few swipes of denatured alcohol and let dry without wiping.

I’ve done this, and in many cases it has dried the tacky resin and made it smooth. Not guaranteeing in all the time; just saying it is a satisfactory fix sometimes.

I use denatured alcohol all the time to clean up, loosen dry resin on pieces before scraping with exacto blade. I wouldn’t be without it. Hope this helps someone.
Pat at the NJ Shore

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Kristofer

On hot coaster, after easycast cured 24 hrs, I sprayed it twice with polyurethane gloss. Nothing ever stuck after that.

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Rhonda

I agree with Pat about the alcohol – but I use 91% rubbing alcohol, a little safer than denatured, learned that from my Dad. He kept denatured alcohol in his workshop to clean the metal parts of his radios he fixed up, but switched to the 91% alcohol after a fire.

Reply
Rhonda

Rhonda J Hunter on Thu, May 21, 2015 at 6:59 PM EDT said:
I agree with Pat about the alcohol – but I use 91% rubbing alcohol, a little safer than denatured, learned that from my Dad. He kept denatured alcohol in his workshop to clean the metal parts of his radios he fixed up, but switched to the 91% alcohol after a fire. Works almost as well as acetone, better on some things.

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Aly

Hi, I’ve been doing some readings through this site and these comments and was hoping to ask a question. I am pouring clear resin into glass bottles, in 2 to 3 separate pours, to display as prop potion bottles. There is probably about 1.5 to 2″ of resin by the time I am done, 3 inches in diameter. I am having the problem where it makes little bubbles and pulls away from the glass in mutiple parts of the cast. Is this something that can be fixed by adding less catalyst so it cures slowly? Or what would you suggest? Thank you for this valuable resource!

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Katherine

@Aly, I haven’t worked with that resin. I would suggest speaking with the manufacturer. In the meantime, I would suggest making sure your glass bottles are completely clean and free of any residue on the inside. I wonder if the resin is reacting with something that is making it pull away.

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