Epic fail with Pebeo resin gedeo

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This topic contains 21 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Clare 3 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 22 total)
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  • #8344 Reply

    Margo Carr

    New to resin and resin products, so happy to have found this site! I started doing some small abstract paintings on mirrors using the pebeo oil based paint and then tried to clear coat them with their two part epoxy resin called gedeo. I was very careful in measuring & mixing. My pieces were completed three weeks prior, so I thought they were dry enough, but my clear coat wrinkled and puckered just awfully. It looked like varnish does when it is applied too thickly. I assumed the resin would just cure hard and smooth not form a skin and ripple. What did I do wrong? I can find no way to talk to the manufacturer or any help with this product, would welcome some direction there too.

    #8353 Reply

    Katherine Swift

    Hi Margo,

    Unfortunately, I don’t have any experience with Gedeo resins and cannot make a comment as to why they didn’t work. We do sell TotalCast resin, however, which is designed for what you want to do. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/totalcast-clear-artwork-resin-70-ounce-kit

    I will ask the manufacturer to leave their comments as to what could be going on.

    #8354 Reply

    Aram Friedrich

    Hi there Margo,

    The Gedeo material is a very low viscosity casting resin and has curled up and pooled due to surface tension.

    I recommend you use MasterCast 1-2-1 as this will give you a thick and uniform clear coating.

    #8356 Reply

    Margo Carr

    Thank you, I’m eager to try something else,but really disappointed in the Gedeo, it was very pricey!

    #9153 Reply

    Mary Rivers

    Hi I seem to have the same problem. I wanted to use the glazing medium only in certain sections of my artwork, keeping some matt, and it has pooled. I need to finish the piece and wondered if I put on a second coat, the same thing would happen. Also do I have to sand first? I have seen something about second coats, but cannot find it now. Thanks

    #9157 Reply

    Katherine Swift

    @Mary, yes, you can recoat with another layer of resin without sanding first. I would recommend using tape to create a dam around your project, then repour.

    #9161 Reply

    Mary Rivers

    Thanks Katherine
    I emailed Pebeo about the curling and pooling and they said was that the viscosity will gradually increase as the resin starts to dry…The also said that “The 150g Glazing Resin pack will cover an area of 10.5 x 14.8cm” which is not stated on the instructions or pack. I had given them the measurements of my artwork 612.80 sq cm. and managed, as their advice to spread with a spatula and it covered all the work and that is now their response, so I will need 4 packs in total which is nearly £120 – I think not. So they supplied me with no solution re second coating as requested apart from they could not comment on other manufacturers! Very expensive and will be looking for a UK different brand supplier. Any suggestions? Thanks

    #9163 Reply

    Katherine Swift

    How awful Mary! Yes, I would recommend Clare and Kate at Resin8. They are also based in the UK and should be able to help find a solution. Please let them know we referred you. 🙂


    #9177 Reply

    Mary Rivers

    Hi Katherine
    Thank you so much for this. I will certainly mention you, this website is great – too many hours spent reading and learning, but now have a new project to do.
    Thanks again

    #9178 Reply

    Mary Rivers

    Hi and sorry to bother again with a problem. I did the second coat; as explained it was in section to keep some areas matt. For an example,imagine a noughts and crosses grid made out of sticks on a plywood base and I am glazing between the sticks. This is the second coat as advised above. There are 9 squares and 3 of the squares are good but the others have a slight cloudiness. The temperature in the UK is good, about 20 C and my table with the artwork on is next to the airing cupboard, door open with the hot water tank, so warm enough I think. There are also a few ‘holes and curling’, but very small in the glazing area. So the questions are can I ‘patch up’ the holes and how do I get rid of the clouding. I have ordered the Resin8 1-1 and this is arriving tomorrow in case I can mix brands; I referred to your recommendation to them. Thanks so much again. If only the rest of the world and businesses were this passionate and prompt!

    #9181 Reply

    Katherine Swift

    Yes, I would try patching up the holes, but you are going to have to pour over the full area. I think it’s pretty hard to get the resin to look even on the surface simply by patching the holes.

    For the next pour, try warming up your resin and hardener as well. That may be why it’s cloudy.

    Are you also sure there isn’t any water contamination in your resin and/or hardener? Water can make things cloudy as well.

    #9182 Reply

    Mary Rivers

    Thanks for this. I am just worried that the cloudiness will not disappear with the 3rd coat. I am pretty certain that no water has got in. Just in case I it has though, will a third coat revert it. The work is quite large, and there is no way I can do a test piece. The plastic containers were new and had been wrapped up (plastic tumblers). I am in the UK and it is very warm, though not humid.Could it be any salt from seawater, even though I soaked and washed the wood down? I am determined to rescue this artwork made of beach finds, so if it will remain cloudy and I cover with tissue/handmade paper the areas could it still take a further coat of glaze? Thanks

    #9202 Reply

    Mary Rivers

    Hi again – I will finish this artwork. After much researching I found a you tube that put a heat gun on the cloudiness and it disappeared. Well, it was worth a try and yesterday the heat worked and got rid of the cloudy but today it was back again. Does this give a clue at was is happening? Thanks again.

    #9207 Reply

    Katherine Swift

    How strange! It does sound like a moisture issue. It might be worth putting the artwork in a room with a dehumidifier for a bit.

    #9213 Reply

    Mary Rivers

    Sorry to keep going on asking questions, but it seems that resin is either used for casting or covering artwork. I do collages with bits of beachcombed wood and plastic, building up layers and trying to get the difference between sea and non sea. I have just started with resin and love the mirror effect. Sometimes the resin needs to be glazed and sometimes thicker. Anyway I want to pursue this way of working and that is why I am being quite particular.
    Anyway, because my main background to the above piece is plywood from the sea, could it be salt? Also it says not to put the resin in sunshine, but could I put the back of the artwork in sun so the moisture comes out of the back? It is hot in the UK at the moment, 25 centigrade with a lovely wind so would the natural way work. Humidifiers are expensive.

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