pouring large clear resin block

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    • #8296 Reply

      Hello all,

      I’m looking for advice on how best to cast a large amount of clear resin into a block (about 1.5 liters)
      – is there a resin product that can be cast all in one pour?
      – is there a rule of thumb amount of resin that one should not pour more of in one go?
      – or is it better to cast in stages, letting each layer become jelly consistency before pouring the next layer (ive heard around 15min until jelly consistency)
      – my main concern is that you will be able to see the layers of resin if it’s poured in stages (my goal is for it to look like a solid clear block)
      – my other concern is that it will crack or break between layers once cured…

      The mold I will make for this block will be made from plywood
      – should I coat the plywood in anything prior to casting, aside from the mold release?

      also would love suggestions on products you guys like for this sort of thing, I was thinking of using
      this product: Environmental Technology 128-Ounce Kit Casting’ Craft Casting Epoxy, Clear
      and this mold release: MG Chemicals Non-Silicone Epoxy Mold Release, 12.3 oz Aerosol

      Thank you all so much in advance!! I’m very new to casting so all advice will mean a lot! 🙂

    • #8302 Reply
      Katherine Swift

      Hi Paola,

      Every resin is different. Manufacturers should be able to give you recommendations on how much of their specific resin you can mix and pour at once. Pot times (stage to jelly) also varies from resin to resin. This is a link detailing all this information on the resins we sell: https://www.resinobsession.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/resin-choices-jan-2016.pdf

      You can definitely cast in stages. By waiting until a layer starts to gel, the next layer should not be visible, versus if you wait for the previous layer to completely cure. As long as your casting isn’t getting too hot, cracking shouldn’t be a problem.

      You will definitely need a mold release if you are using plywood as your mold box. I’m not familiar with the one you have listed, but this is the one I would use: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/petrolease-non-silicone-food-grade-mold-release

      For a casting this size, I also don’t think the Castin’ Craft EasyCast epoxy is a good choice. Even when fully cured, it is still soft (you can dent it with your fingernail), and it may cure with a slight amber tint. Instead I would recommend either the Resin Obsession super clear resin or the TotalCast resin. Both can be found here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin The super clear resin works great for molds, but you will only be able to mix and pour 3 ounces at a time. With the TotalCast, you can mix larger quantities at once, but the pot time is shorter. The shortened pot time tends to be a challenge for beginners.

      I realize you likely have more questions. I’m here to help. 🙂

    • #8340 Reply
      Clinton Gallagher @tapABILITIES

      I would not recommend using plywood as a form if the surface of the form that touches the epoxy is the plyqood itself; even if a release is applied. Even the smoothest surface of the highest quality finish grade plywood has minute imperfections that will transfer to the surface of the epoxy.

      Secondly, 1.5 liters only describes the volume when a sound recommendation requires the height, length and width of the mold. Furthermore, a mold has inside corners to be concerned about and their shape or surface imperfections will also transfer to the epoxy.

      To get the highest quality result the mold for the pour should be made of silicone. What to use as a form to make the silicone mold will be tricky. If something with a perfectly smooth surface and perfect sharp corners can be found that will be as close as possible to the finished cast epoy result that should be used and then removed from the silicone mold leaving perfect inside corners and surfaces without blemish that WILL otherwise show up on the epoxy.

      Build the mold to pour the silicone into using foamcore. It has a perfect impervious surface that can be coated with release. Foamcore is used by professionals. Again though what to place into the foamcore mold to pour the silicone around remains a tricky mystery; often an existing object like a plastic tissue box or something made that has the perfect corners. Any material can be coated with release for a silicone mold.

      Finally, I would build a small prototype silicone mold before going large to perfect the choice of my materials.

      Good luck with it

    • #15425 Reply
      Axel Linari

      Hello, similar question, I want to make a crystal clear cylinder, about 1,5ft diameter x 2 ft tall. Is there a product to cast all in one pour without cracking? I want to encapsulate a vertical object and have been told that if I do it in layers although the pours will not be visible there will be cuts in the refraction of the objet. any ideas? thank you!

    • #15875 Reply

      if it were me, id probably use art resin, its a bit more expensive, so if u r still learning, id probably go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy what they have. but if i was looking to make a large, clear casting, as a keepsake, or a gift,id go w Art Resin. it doesnt yellow, and can be poured in relatively quick succession.. about 30 mins to an hour or a lil more, curing time between layers, (so ur resin wont change tone and be able to see the layers. depending on size.. if you pour it all at once, it will get extremely hot and your risk it cracking, for sure. if ur doing something super special, id go with the jewelry grade resin at Michael’s or Hobby Lobby.
      i have been told that polyester resin is best for large pieces, due to it being a thinner resin and bubbles are easier to pop. but i know the other resins, and cant afford to try to “learn” w polyester resin, right now. once i do, i will repost!! happy crafting!

      • #15876 Reply

        …but thats just my 2 cents!! best of luck! if u already did it, please share photos!!

    • #18991 Reply


      So I’m completely new at this and want se onsite, mu father passed way almost 30 years ago, and left behind a carving of his initials in a peice of wood, which I have cut down from our family camp trio, I want to make it into a table for my mom and grandpa, I have no idea where to even start or what brand to buy, to get bubbles out, so on so fourth, please any help would be greatly appreciated.

    • #39983 Reply

      hi there. i am planning a large wood resin coffee table project. the total volume of the project is 16.49 cubic feet. what type of clear resin would be best to use, first for clarity, then for pourable volume at once? i might put streaks of dye throughout the pouring process using a syringe.
      i dont have a time limit, so i could do 1000 pours if i need to, but would prefer the least amount of pours while not sacrificing clarity.


      • #39999 Reply
        Katherine Swift

        Wow Cruz, that’s a lot of resin! I’m afraid I don’t have a recommendation for you for a volume that large.

    • #42446 Reply

      I’m doing a lot of resin work. So far I’ve done multi-layer underwater style paintings on trays with five or six thin layers of resin. In between, when possible, I try to sand the layers. That seems to keep them together.
      However, I want to try to cast a “crystal skull” that’s just a bit smaller than life size. Do you have any information on how best to make that skull clear? I also plan on putting in some mica layers to approximate faults in the crystal. Any input is appreciated.

      • #42868 Reply
        Katherine Swift

        Hi Kathleen,

        You have a lot going on here!

        I want to help you with your project, and I think this situation is best suited for a one-on-one consulting call where you and I talk back and forth about what’s going on. I can set you up for a 15 or 30 minute consultation call. If you want to send an email through our contact page, I am happy to respond with prices and availability.

    • #56885 Reply

      I would like to make a custom cylindrical speaker enclosure with a metallic color. I am looking to mold with wood suspensions then hollow out on a lathe. What are your recommendations for resin and is a pressure pot necessary? Thanks in advance.

      • #56909 Reply
        Katherine Swift

        Hi Clinton, for what you want to do, you need to use a clear polyurethane resin. You should also plan on using a pressure pot with it to get it bubble free since it sounds like a large casting.

    • #60614 Reply

      I am doing a similar Project where I am setting flowers into large blocks… I ideally wanted these blocks to be around 5 litres each… ahhh Im struggling so bad. Im using a slow drying epoxy resin and have made moulds out of hard clear acrylic to reduce the sanding. I tried using a wax mould release spray but it didn’t work? how much do you usually need to coat your mould? I had to break the Acrylic mould to get it out.. and even though I waited for the layers to Gel you can still see a line of the layer on the sides of the block? How do you make it seamless? Bubbles have also been an issue. Should I mix up some resin and coat the flowers first?


      • #60808 Reply
        Katherine Swift

        Hi Olympia,

        You have a lot going on here!

        I want to help you with your project, and I think this situation is best suited for a one-on-one consulting call where you and I talk back and forth about what’s going on. A 15 minute consultation call is $20. I do them by video so I can have a chance to see what you are working on.

        If you are interested, please send a message through the ‘contact us’ page and I can get this going for you.

    • #84016 Reply

      Wanting to cast some heavy steel gears into roughly a 24inch x15inch table top. Total weight of the gears are roughly 75lbs..
      Any tips? Or product suggests

    • #88854 Reply

      Hi I’m making a transparent SLA print of a life size person and I want to fill it with transparent resin so that it becomes strong and can bear weight. It will be a table. Any advice ?

    • #88860 Reply
      Katherine Swift

      Hi Nik,

      We have transparent colors for resin in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/transparent

    • #91517 Reply

      I want to make a desk top with a guitar (Real Gibson Les Paul) suspended in it that has a broken headstock/neck. I got as a birthday present from my parents 18 years ago.
      It’s been broken for 17 years and has been fixed 3 times by different luthiers but kept on failing again.
      I want to put it on display so I can get some use out of it.


    • #91687 Reply
      Jake clark

      My wife and I are making a large countertop with jeans inlayed with jeans! It’s a checkout counter at her boutique. We’re trying to figure out the best product for a high volume obviously. And the process for pouring such a huge volume? Stages or all at once? We’ll have the raised walls with trim pieces and jeans fixed down.

      • #91690 Reply
        Katherine Swift

        Hi Jake,

        What are the dimensions of the area you want to fill with resin?

    • #91757 Reply

      I recently salvaged a large tree trunk from the Columbia River that is complete with entire root system that has been mostly preserved as driftwood. It is approximately 8ft x 6ft x 4ft. My goal is to buy or build as large a mold as possible to contain my specimem, then pour in natural water colored epoxy resin to create an item similar to this piece:


      First, do you think it is even possible to recreate an equally beautiful finished product on such a large scale or do I need to decrease the size of my awesome tree trunk/root system for similar results.?.?


      • #91767 Reply
        Katherine Swift

        Hi Ceres,

        Yes, this project is possible. Are you new to resin?

    • #91893 Reply

      I am very new to resin casting. I am looking to cast a 6 to 7-inch square cube for my research work in school. I need the cube to be strong, brittle, transparent and, bubble-free. Please suggest the resin, mold, casting process, etc. Appreciate the help. Thanks.

    • #93429 Reply

      Hi Kathleen,
      If I were to make simple resin blocks about 1″ thick, could I sublimate a photo to them on the back side? If so, what type of resin would I use? Would they withstand the heat?

      Thank you in advance.

    • #93430 Reply

      By the way these would only be about 4″x4″ or 6″ x 6″

    • #95448 Reply

      Okay I’m making a pyramid with resin that is 2:1 ratios. It’s clear and I’m using it for a picture inside the pyramid. But I didn’t quite cover the picture as I wanted. If I add more clear. After it dries is it gone blend or clearly be able to see the separation.

    • #95606 Reply
      Making Miley

      Hey! I’m new to resin so I have a question I was hopefully you could answer. I’m working on some 2 inch deep flowers molds. Everything I’m reading says to pour layers at 3/8 inch (that’s what my resin calls for). It also says to wait 3-6 hours in between layers. How do you finish that piece in a day? Is it okay to set sit over night and finish piece in the morning? Just trying to figure out how someone finishes a flower mold in a full day without messing up the layers… thanks!

    • #97643 Reply

      So for a birthday present I am thinking about doing a candle, but a little different. Think of buying a 12″high x 6″ wide glass vase. Maybe with a wooden riser for the normal 4″ wide glass candles and put LED fairy lights in-between the candle and the vase and with some trinkets and what not also in-between the two glasses.. the LEDs don’t give off much heat. And I thought of doing it in resin to keep it all clean and dust free if it is left out for a long time.. what is my best option?

    • #102700 Reply

      I poured a silicone mold for a 6×6 acrylic box. HELP! I can’t get to box out now. How do I remove it…as well as when I start using my resin?

      • #102769 Reply
        Katherine Swift

        Hi Karen,

        It sounds like you are going to have to cut the mold open to get to the box.

    • #109435 Reply


      I was hoping you could help me figure out how to execute an idea.

      I used letter molds to spell out my niece’s name (in resin, of course). I now want to suspend those letters in a block of resin — the size will probably be around 12” by 8” and 1.5” high/deep. Ultimately, I’m hoping this will act as a “frame” for the letters. It’ll sort of look like a rectangle box, but it will be mounted on a wall.

      I’m buying a mold for the “block.” Is there a particular kind of mold I need to buy? (Sealed vs unsealed?)

      Is there a certain kind of resin I should be using?

      Is there a certain way I need to pour the resin? (And if so, could you help me understand why? Just so I can learn!).

      Is there anything else I didn’t think of or any advice you can share?

      Thank you so much!

    • #109507 Reply
      Katherine Swift

      Hi Mani,

      Thanks for stopping by. I’d love to help with this.

      I’m not sure what you mean by ‘sealed versus unsealed’ for the mold. Can you tell me more?

      The Resin Obsession deep pour epoxy is perfect for a project like this. You can buy it in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin

      This article explains how to suspend items in resin: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/how-to-suspend-objects-in-resin/

      Since it sounds like you’re a beginner to resin, we’ve got a lot of articles here to help you get started: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/beginner/

    • #110238 Reply

      Hello, I am a sculpture student and want to make a deep sea diorama. I want to ensure that there is zero distinction between pours and minimal to no bubbles. I have included an image link below as an example. The pour dimensions would be closer to 15x8x12 inches in height. Is there a way to mix/pour the entire volume possibly at once or mix in smaller batches but pour it back to back. I would also like to create a transparent color gradient in the water. Also, the sea creature in my diorama is made with cast resin from smooth-on and if it is okay to submerge it in your resin. Please help me out.


    • #130012 Reply

      I have been experimenting with dried flowers in resin. I have been layering to avoid over-heating of the flowers, but hate the amount of layer marks at the end of each project! I’m looking for any and all advice! Thank you.

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