Resin choice for wood filling

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This topic contains 17 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Katherine Swift 3 months ago.

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  • #7381 Reply

    Mark

    I’ve nearly completed my outdoor coffee table. The tope is approximately 5′ long by 27″ wide and approximately 1.5″ thick. It’s a large, live edge slab of Black Walnut.

    The problem lies in that there’s a large “hole” through the wood. The hole is approximately 8″x8″ and goes all the way through the slab.

    I’ve screwed a piece of Lexan on the underside of the slab and have sealed the edges of the Lexan. In the cavity I’ve arranged an array of coral pieces, some are attached directly to the Lexan, others are “elevated” above the Lexan by means of metal “stands” (copper plumbing components).

    I now need to fill the void with a clear resin in order to embed the objects and to bring the resin fill up to the level of the tabletop.

    I’ve looked into all sorts of different resins, but really do require something that is pourable (preferably without a lot of fumes) that will cure without a lot of temperature restrictions, vacuum pumping, etc.

    Does anyone on here have any suggestions (ie. specific product) as to what I should be using. I do realize that I will probably need to do this in layers in order to get a thickness of approximately 1-1.5″.

    I’m only going to get one shot at this. There are a lot of hours into this project so far. A failure would be hard to live down.

  • #7385 Reply

    Tom
  • #7386 Reply

    Katherine Swift
    Keymaster

    Were you wanting to remove the Lexan after casting?

  • #7392 Reply

    mark

    Thanks, but it’s not a knothole. It’s rather an area of punky wood. I’ve removed the majority of the punky wood, leaving a ragged edge. The Lexan was screwed underneath the slab and the edges of the Lexan caulked to prevent the resin from dripping out of the cavity.

    The cavity was filled with polished river stones, which will now be filled with the resin. The Lexan is undetectable, so it will remain fixed in place.

    The entire top of the table will then be covered with a layer of the resin.

    I’ve looked into a whole whack of internet sites, YouTube videos, etc., and have determined that ART RESIN looks to be my best bet.

    I ordered it yesterday from the Canadian site, and it’s due to arrive Thursday.

    • #7393 Reply

      Katherine Swift
      Keymaster

      I’m curious.. what made you decide to try Art Resin? I haven’t worked with Art Resin, but I think the TotalCast resin would be a good choice for this project. Let us know how it goes.

  • #7395 Reply

    Mark

    I did a lot of checking around. In fact, I got sick of checking around as there’s just so much information out there.

    I looked at a lot of different products (TAP resin, Cast ‘n Craft, West Systems, FiberGlast, Max 1618, 105/207, etc., etc.) but the deciding factor (surprise, not price) was low VOC, anti-yellowing agents, hardness and its ability to adhere to almost any surface. It’s also possible to build it up in layers.

    I’ve ordered the studio kit (Can$149 + tax = $168.39) which will give me enough to finish the coffee table project. That’ll be my experimental piece. If I like it, then I’ll use it on another project I’m working on (white oak slab desk 6’x3’x2″ thick).

  • #7396 Reply

    Mark

    A correction. I also chose the Art Resin due to the fact that I could get a larger quantity (1 gallon kit), which would allow me to do both projects relatively inexpensively.

    It was Can.$154 + tax. Shipping was free. It certainly helped that it shipped from Canada, as I absolutely hate having to pay duty/freight and taxes on top of a hefty exchange rate.

    • #7397 Reply

      Katherine Swift
      Keymaster

      Thanks for sharing the info Mark. I’m anxious to hear how it turns out for you.

  • #7428 Reply

    Erin

    Hopefully the table comes out awesome. If you are not happy with that product and decide to try something different in the future, Alumilite Resin is available through this company in Ontario.
    When I was researching resin, it came down to ArtResin vs Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast and I chose Alumilite based on various YouTube reviews. And you get 2 gallons for the price of 1 gallon of ArtResin.

    http://plasticworld.ca/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_43&products_id=114&zenid=ff3ef8b322701967948cf222b3c4b9e1

    • #7431 Reply

      Katherine Swift
      Keymaster

      I have worked with the Alumilite Amazing Clear resin and have been happy with the results. I would expect it would work well here too.

  • #7516 Reply

    Mark

    Well, the Art Resin worked extremely well. I was quite impressed with the clarity of the resin once cured, it was water clear. I did this project in the basement as the garage is too cold at this time of the year. As Art Resin is non-flammable, I wasn’t concerned with the spark from the furnace.There was no discernable odor from this product and it was self-levelling.

    A propane torch was used to “pop” the bubbles that formed when the two components were mixed together.

  • #7518 Reply

    Katherine Swift
    Keymaster

    Thanks Mark for sharing the feedback. Happy to hear things worked out well for you!

  • #29169 Reply

    Jenn

    I’m about to make my first slab table. I’m using round slabs of apple with a lot of empty space. Probably close to 40% holes. My issue is that the holes go to the edge of the slab. And they’re huge holes. What can I put around the edge of the slab to hold the resin in place until it dries. It needs to be bendable as the tables aren’t square.
    Secondly what resin would you recommend if I decide to tint it either black or silver?

  • #29337 Reply

    Cody Bruce

    Please help!
    I’m at my wits end with trying to get my epoxy to cure without millions of micro bubbles. I’m using East Coast Resin and looking to try something different. I’ve done everything per instructions and used a torch to pop. My projects require an 1″ thick pour and would rather not have to do 8 different pours at 1/8 to get to my thickness. I’ve watched countless videos and one thing I’ve noticed on the big river tables is that their resin is very fluid when its poured. Makes since that the bubbles would escape a lot easier. Any suggestions?

  • #38516 Reply

    Curley Williams

    We are making a conference table out of 3/4″ walnut veneer with an mdf core. We have “CLM” routed out in the center of the table (through route). We’d like to fill it with resin. Since the table is already finished (we were going another route and plans changed), we’re now thinking of just filling the “CLM” with resin AND coating the entire table top. Would Alumilite work for this application?

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