How to make your own bangle bracelet form for molding in silicone

How to make your own bangle bracelet forms for you to create your own silicone molds for resin

This tutorial is graciously shared by Rona Phillips

It is hard to find any tutorials on how to create your own forms for creating personalized molds for resin, so I thought I would create one to help out any one who would like to do this. I wanted a mold that was tall enough and the shape I wanted to use to create bangles with transparencies. And I wanted one that fit me perfectly. So I decided to figure it out for myself. I am a polymer clay artist so the first thing I thought of was polymer clay. It is easy to work with and it is cheap. I have also made bangles in polymer clay, so it was not hard to move it to the next step.

supplies

Material list:

-Premo Polymer Clay (any color) 3-2oz packages (More or less)
-Translucent Liquid Sculpey
-Wet dry sand paper (400 – 600 – 800 – 1200 – 1500 grit)
-Ceramic tile (big enough for bangle form to fit on) or oven-proof glass surface
-Cardboard poster tube (the ones they mail posters in)  Choose one that you can fit your hand through
-Repel Gel for polymer clay
-Plastic tub (I use 15oz butter tub) with bottom cut out
-Paper template
-Two sided tape (poster)

polymer clay pasta roller

-Silicone molding material of your choice
-Optional stamp with your name on it

 

 

bangle bracelet template supplies

Tools:
-Pasta machine for Polymer clay
-Tissue Blade
-Wipe out tool
-Acrylic roller or knitting needle
-Paintbrush
-X-Acto craft knife

Cardboard tube

tube

Take your Cardboard tube and cut off around 3 ½ inches with your craft knife. Be very careful not to cut yourself!

 

Make a paper template using the cardboard tube, with the length and height you need for your form.

 

cardboard tube

Coat the bottom ¾ of your cardboard cutout with 3 coats of Repel Gel with a paintbrush. Letting it dry in-between coats.

 

 

 

Polymer Clay

It all depends on how wide and how tall you want to make your form, as to how much polymer clay you will need for this project. I buy polymer clay by the pound, which is really cheap.

-I start with clean hands and work area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. Do not place uncured clay on fine furniture.
-I don’t wear fluffy or furry clothes or anything that sheds a lot of fibers; otherwise I spend ages digging out bits from the clay.

-Chop up clay into little pieces. (At home I use a food processor.) The clay needs to become pliable. The more you work the clay the stronger it gets. Knead the clay – twist the clay – roll the clay.
-Flatten out the clay with your hands.
-Feed the clay through the pasta machine on the # 1 setting, which is the widest setting.

clay on roller

-I use a pasta machine to help me in making uniform sheets of clay.
-Roll out a long wide sheet of polymer clay.

 

 

 

cut with blade

Take your paper template and lay it on top of you is rolled out polymer clay sheet. Take your tissue blade and cut out strip. Careful, tissue blade is sharp.

 

 

 

clay strip

I always cut ½ inch longer on both ends.

 

 

wrapping clay

Take the polymer clay sheet and start to wrap around the cardboard tube.

 

 

 

clay form template

Make sure to overlap your strips. Take your tissue blade and hold it straight up and down and press in till you hit cardboard. Careful, tissue blade is sharp!

 

 

cut clay

Take your wipe out tool and smooth seems together.

 

 

 

baking clay

Bake on tile or oven-proof glass surface at 275 degrees for 30 minutes.
DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN.
DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE.

DO NOT BURN! The burnt fumes are not good for you to breathe in.

Remove from oven and let cool. You will have to remove the polymer clay bones from cardboard tube very carefully. You may have to slightly squeeze the top of the cardboard tube to pop the polymer clay away from the tube.

clay template

Then very slowly pull the polymer clay down off the tube. Take your time and remove it slowly.  I call this 1st layer of polymer clay the bones.

Like this post? You may be interested in  Resin casting Halloween charms

 

 

cutting clay with template

You will have to make a 2nd polymer clay strip to cover the bones. Cut it out using your template and lay the strip aside.

 

 

glue on clay

Take your liquid polymer clay and put on the outside of the bones.

 

 

 

smooth onWith your fingers, smooth the liquid polymer clay over the outside of the bones.

 

 

 

clay model

Wrap the polymer clay sheet around the bones.

 

 

 

clay

Make sure to overlap your strip.

 

 

cut with blade

Take your tissue blade and hold it straight up and down and press in till you hit the bones. Be careful not to cut the bones or your fingers.

 

 

 

cutting clay

Take acrylic roller and smooth seem. You will need to be very light handed on the outside polymer clay sheet. You do not want dings or dents on your form.

 

 

clay form

Before you put your form in the oven you will need to take your name stamp and press into your from.
Bake on tile or oven-proof glass surface at 275 degrees for 30 minutes.

 

 

Sanding

After you remove your form from the oven, let it completely cool. You will now start the sanding process. (For demonstration purposes I will not go through the complete sanding process on my form in this tutorial.) Sand under water with a dash of Dawn, using wet dry sand paper 400-600-800-1200-1500. (If you see any cracks or flaws in your form in the sanding process, you will need to fill them with polymer clay. Re bake on tile or oven-proof glass surface at 275 degrees for 15 minutes. You will then start the sanding process all over again.) After the sanding process is done you will have to buff – buff – buff until it is smooth and shiny. The smoother your form, the smoother your mold and resin castings will be.

Assemble

bracelet form

Take your double sided tape and start putting it on the top of your from. Overlap the double sides tape until the top edges are covered.

 

 

 

mold making

Take the butter tub lid and center your form, tape side down. Make sure the tape is secured to the butter top lid and your form.  You will have to read on your instructions for your molding materials on how much space you will need between your form and the butter tub, to make a good strong mold.

 

 

make a silicone mold

Snap on your bottomless butter tub to the butter tub lid. Make sure it is popped on and secure or you will have a huge mess when you start to pour your mold material.

 

 

 

molding with a margarine tub

This is what it looks from the side view.
You are now ready to start the molding process. Follow the directions of the molding materials you have decided to use.

 

 

silicone mold

This is what my mold looks like after I have removed it from the butter tub and removed my form.

 

 

 

With this tutorial you will be able to adapt it to your needs and wants. You can make it to fit your wrist size. You can make it tall – short – fat – skinny. You could adapt it for a two or three part mold. You could even create different textured if you wanted to. With Polymer clay I have created all kinds of forms for my molds. (Rings – Bangle – Beads – Hearts – Pendants – Mobiles etc …) You are now ready to create your resin bangle. *hugz*

Want to see how to cast your bangle?  See Rona’s tutorial on How to create a resin bangle bracelet using transparencies

12 Comments

Katherine

Rona, I don’t have any experience with polymer clay. Could you stop with the first ‘bones’ and cast that? Do you have to put the next layer onto it?

Reply
Rona

Yes Katherine, you could stop with the 1st bones. But you will have to sand with the wet dry sand paper 400-600-800-1200-1500 to make sure it is very smooth. Just remember to be careful and use an easy hand so you don’t break it. After you make your mold you could acually continue with the tut above and have a two part mold for different colors in you bangle.
*hugz*
Rona

Reply
Helen

Hello, I love how you use a stamp to put your name on it. What kind of stamp is it? and where do you get them made?

Reply
Rona

You are welcome Ronnie! Diana the molding material I used was OOMOO 30 SILICONE and it is a liquid. Helen I ordered my personalized name stamp from http://www.stampoutonline.com and I think it is a clear polymer they use. *hugz* Rona

Reply
Oussama

There are many, many ways to transfer imeags. One easy way to transfer copies of actual photos is as follows: Make an inkjet copy of your photo onto t-shirt transfer copy paper. Cut out the part of the image that you want to transfer, put your conditioned clay on a tile or other baking surface (you don’t want to move your clay after burnishing your copy to it) put your copy on the clay and burnish it with a knitting needle or similar burnisher. After you have it well burnished so that the whole image is touching the clay, set it aside for one hour. Then, bake in a 266 degrees F for 5 minutes. Then carefully peel back the copy paper and your picture should be on your clay. You can then place that on other clay or however you need to complete your item or just bake it for the remaining time, following the clay manufacturer’s directions. Another way to make a transfer is to make a black and white copy, color it in with colored pencils, staying inside the lines, unlike grade school, it really does matter so that your lines will show up on the clay ; ), and burnish that to your clay surface on your baking surface, and then bake for 10 minutes, or more (see below) at the manufacturer’s directions. Then carefully peel off the paper and your picture will be transfered onto the clay. The timing on this may vary, depending on the brand of pencils you use, I usually lift up just a tiny bit on a corner of the paper to see if it’s transfered enough. You can just do a small piece of clay with a test scribble of paper on it to check the transfer rather than using your design until you know how your pencils transfer. Most of the books available have copy methods, and almost all of them are different, some using toner copies, some with water-slide transfers, others use gin to remove the paper from the clay. If you Google “transfer imeags polymer clay,” you will find a lot of information available. It’s so wonderful that polymer clay artists are so willing to share their knowledge, there is a plethora of information available on-line. If you check out polymerclaycentral.com, you will find a wealth of information available, and almost any pc question you could think of is answered at glassattic.com. A great, caring group of which I’m a member is yahoo group, CITY-o-Clay. I hope this helps. Have fun!Smiles, Sue

Reply
Joyce

Oh! I use them all, you should see my stamp ctoleclion. metal, mounted, unmounted, wooden backed, anything that has a pattern that I like. You just have to practice not pushing too hard and using deeply etched stamps. practice, practice, practice.

Reply
Rhonda J. Hunter

I can see how this could be used to make a hinged bangle, cutting the clay in two pieces and draping them over the cardboard form to bake it, then making a double mold or two molds after sanding. I wonder if Composimold would be good for this?

Reply
Terry Sanders

Hi Kathrin, I am trying to make a bangle with your bangle molds. Iput colorant in the resin and add two drops to resin and add extra hardener to it also. However, it is sticky when i get it out. I let it cure for 7 days. I’m at a loss as to what is wrong.

Reply

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