Fix holes and dents in resin – fix fish eyes in resin

how to fix fish eyes in resin

You have made the most fantastic color combinations and design on your art canvas or countertop only to find after the resin cured, you have holes and dents in the resin surface. These marks, also known as fish eyes in resin, can happen for several reasons.

When this happens, you may find yourself asking what can you do to fix holes and dents in resin.

Here are three steps you need to take to fix fish eyes in your resin surface:

Step 1: Determine why the dents and divots happened.

If you don’t know why they occurred, you are likely to repeat them. I discuss five reasons in this article, why there are holes and dents in your resin surface. Make sure you know what happened, so you know how to avoid them moving forward.

Step 2: Figure out how deep your holes are.

If your divots are a minor depth, like one-sixteenth of an inch or less, mix and pour a new flood coat of resin. Make sure your resin surface is clean and that you use the right amount of an artwork resin. If you don’t know how much resin you need, this resin calculator does the math for you. An artwork resin self-levels to a one-eighth inch depth, so it should even itself out over the entire surface if your holes are shallow.

Step 3: Sand down your surface if your holes are one-eighth inch or deeper OR plan on multiple pours.

Since artwork resin wants to level to one-eighth of an inch, you will need to sand the artwork surface so the dents in your resin are under one-eighth of an inch. This will allow the resin to cover the surface evenly when you apply another flood coat. If you haven’t sanded resin before, here are my resin sanding tips.

I do not like sanding resin, which is why I share another option of applying multiple flood coats of resin. Of course, this option costs more, but I find it’s easier for most people to get done. You simply need to decide if you want to spend your time sanding or spend your money pouring more resin.

Pro tip: When pouring a second (or more) layer of resin, it may not fill to the edge as well as it did with the previous layer. You may want to create a tape dam around the piece with good quality masking tape or painter’s tape to make sure the resin gets to the edge.

Hopefully, by the time your resin cures the next time, you won’t need to ask yourself how to fix holes and dents in resin.

Learn the essential resin details that are important to success.  Buy your copy of Resin Fundamentals.  The easy-to-follow book contains everything beginners need to know to go from confused to confident with resin in only a few hours!

Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2020 Resin Obsession, LLC

Like this post? You may be interested in  Resin didn't cure - 12 reasons why your resin isn't curing

17 thoughts on “Fix holes and dents in resin – fix fish eyes in resin

  1. Katherine, I’ve got myself making a wood counter top for my kitchen counter. I’ve got the countertop resin, ready to go but I’m scared to death to do it for this very reason, fish eyes. It’s one solid piece of wood with sink hole cut out and I have to add on the molding around the edge. My question is, how do I keep the resin from going down in the crack where the counter and molding meet. I would also like the resin to flow over the edges bit. Should I just paint resin over the edge in thin layers and what kind of dam do a put around it? I’ve watched a million and one videos about this and I’m still scared to death. Do I just jump in and go with the flow(lol)? Lori

    1. Hi Lori, this project sounds so exciting! Without seeing your set up it’s hard for me to say what you can do to keep the resin from going through the crack. This article should give you some ideas on some things you can try: Painter’s tape works great to make a dam for the edge. As for the edge side — I would say go with what you think you will like better!

  2. When you say use tape to dam it up…

    If I am using a 1.5” thick canvas, do I put the tape up high to keep the resin at the top? If so, what is proper for covering the sides? Thank you!

    1. Hi Kathy, you only need to do the tape dam if you plan on doing a second pour. The height you make the tape is up to you, but an eight-inch height above the surface should be fine.

  3. Hi Katherine, I’m using clear art resin on top of coloured Hexagons, I unfortunately have placed one on top of another. I now have some dents. The dents have a opaque look, if I do another resin coat will these opaque dents still show through?? Do I need to
    Sand?? Thanks, Mitch

  4. Hello Katherine, I was working with some epoxy on my outdoor concrete countertops and I painted it black with some gray to give it a marble look. After that I have it a clear coat and after the clear coat the fish eyes seemed to appear out of nowhere. So I sanded it down and gave it another coat but this time with glitter mixed in it, and still the same problem, more fish eyes! What is your recommendation for all these fish eyes, thank you.

      1. Hi LM, it’s been my experience with Pam that it’s too greasy and can make the resin pit. I don’t recommend it as a resin mold release.

  5. Yesterday I did a small table top that has several dimples. I used the last of my resin on that pour. I have more resin but it’s a different brand. Is it ok to pour a flood coat to correct with the new resin?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *