For this easy resin bracelet project, you will need:
Silicone chocolate mold with glossy cavities,1 3/16” (30 mm) diameter
Designer’s Notes: FastCast is a quick-curing resin so you need to have everything ready before you start measuring out the resin. Once the two parts are poured into the same cup, you have just 2 to 3 minutes to mix and pour the resin before it begins to set up. Make sure you familiarize yourself with the instructions before beginning. Because it is a white resin, you’ll notice that the resin undergoes a change from transparent to a lighter, opaque tint of the color you mixed as it cures.
Measure out 13 ml of Part A (the amber part) of FastCast.
Add four drops or small squeezes of opaque yellow pigment and one drop of transparent blue dye to Part A.
Mix it into Part A until it is evenly colored.
Measure out 13 ml of Part B in the same cup. Mix the two parts together thoroughly, following the instructions included in the packaging.
Draw the resin up into a pipette and transfer it into the bottom of the mold cavities. You only want a small amount so that the second, third and fourth colors with be visible when demolded. If you get any resin on the walls of the mold, you will need to remove it with a Q-tip.
For the second color, measure out another 13 ml of Part A. Color it with 4 drops of opaque red pigment. Mix the pigment into the resin completely and then add 1 drop of opaque blue pigment. Mix the color thoroughly.
Measure out 13 ml of Part B into the same cup and mix the two parts together thoroughly.
Draw the purple resin into a pipette and squeeze a thin layer of it into the mold on top of the green resin.
Measure out 13 ml each of Parts A and B into the same cup and mix them together thoroughly. Use a pipette to transfer the resin into the mold on top of the purple layer. Because it has no color added, it will cure white.
Measure out 13 ml of Part A and color it with black pigment until it is opaque. The less pigment you put in, the lighter the gray will be. Take care not to add too much pigment as this will inhibit curing. Measure out 13 ml of Part B into the same cup and mix the two parts together thoroughly. Spoon the black resin on top of the white resin until you fill the mold. Set the resin aside to cure for 20 minutes.
To demold the pieces, peel the silicone away from the resin and pull each dome out.
If there are any sharp edges on the domes, trim just the edge with a utility knife.
To assemble the domes into a bracelet, you’ll need to mark positions for the stringing holes. Place a mark approximately 4 mm from the bottom of the dome with the permanent marker. Mark a corresponding hole on the opposite side of the dome. Draw a line across the back of the dome to connect the two marks. This will help you to drill straight.
Place the dome on your workspace with the line in the vertical position and drill part of the way into the dome with a 1.5 mm drill bit.
Take a piece of straight wire and insert it into the hole to check that you are aligned with the line and that you are also keeping the hole 4 mm from the flat bottom. Turn the piece around and drill from the other side. Once you are happy that you are drilling straight from both sides, keep drilling until the two drill holes meet in the middle. Repeat for as many pieces as you will need for your bracelet. Remove the permanent marker from the back of the domes.
Assemble the bracelet
Cut a 12” piece of beading elastic and pre-stretch it. This will ensure the bracelet doesn’t stretch over time with use. String on a resin dome, a spacer bead, three piggy beads (some through the middle hole and some through the outer hole) and another spacer bead. Continue this stringing pattern until the bracelet fits your wrist. If necessary, adjust the number of spacer beads or piggy beads between each dome to fit.
To tie off the bracelet securely, use a surgeon’s knot, then tie another double knot. Pull the tails and the bracelet elastic to tighten the knot. To give the bracelet added strength, cut another length of beading elastic and thread it through all the beads again, starting at a different point on the bracelet. It will be difficult to get the second elastic through the piggy beads but if you stretch the elastic that is already in the bead it will become thinner so that you can pass the second elastic through. Tie it off with the surgeon’s knot. Apply a dab of G-S Hypo Cement to each knot. Once dry, trim the ends to ¼” and slide the knots inside a bead where they’ll be hidden.
Enjoy your new resin bracelet!
Your coloring possibilities for this easy resin bracelet are endless. You can easily make several in a weekend!
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