Pearl Ex is a versatile colourant for resin. It can be used in a few different ways to add colour and sparkle to your resin project. I’m going to show you two ways to use Pearl Ex powders with resin.
Pearl Ex by Jacquard is a powdered pigment with a touch of sparkle that exhibits extreme colour-fastness (meaning it won’t fade when left in a place with bright light) and stability (the colour remains true and does not change over time). Pearl Ex comes in a wide variety of colours. The colours are vibrant and some even change colour depending on the angle. The colours can even be mixed, dry or wet, to make new colours. Many of the colours have a metallic look but, since there is no metal in them, they won’t tarnish, others have a pearly luster.
The resin we’re using today is Resin Obsession Super Clear. This is a 2:1 two-part resin with a 25 minute open or “pot” time (the amount of time you have from mixing the parts together to when it will start getting thick and non-pourable as it begins the hardening phase of the curing). This resin also has a 6-8 hour cure time in normal room temperature. Resin Obsession Super Clear is excellent when working with molds because its thinner viscosity (liquidiness) makes it easier to pour and get into small places. The thinner viscosity also traps fewer bubbles when working with molds. Super Clear also has a UV protectant to prevent yellowing over time. This ensures the colour of the finished piece will remain the same as the day it was made.
The mold I am focusing on today is a silicone mold of leaves. Silicone molds are usually more detailed than plastic resin molds. It is also a lot easier to remove cured pieces from silicone molds. They rarely need any release added to the mold before starting your project. Many silicone molds have a matte finish on the finished item. If the item the mold was created from was not shiny smooth, the mold will also be matte.
This mold is similar:
Resin Obsession Super Clear Resin
Pearl Ex powdered pigment
Six leaves reusable silicone mold
Soft Paint Brush: craft or art store
3+ Graduated 1 ounce mixing cups
Resin Obsession Stir Stix
Cover for the curing: box of any kind, mine is plastic
Emory board: dollar store
Option 1: Painting the Mold with Pearl Ex
The method is one I often use because it allows the resin piece to be translucent while adding colour and a bit of sparkle. It also allows the addition of colour in an exact location. Before mixing your resin, you need to prepare your molds. Decide the colours and the molds you want to use. You will also need a small soft paintbrush (I use an inexpensive one I bought at a local craft store). I call this step ‘painting’ the mold.
Step 1: Put powder on the brush
Dip the dry brush into the Pearl Ex to pick up a small amount of the powder and simply brush right into the mold cavity. You should brush on enough to cover the cavity on all sides but not so much that you have a lot of loose powder. Loose powder that’s not in contact with the mold won’t make the colouring thicker or darker, it will more likely just end up floating to the top (back) of the piece.
Step 2: Mix the resin
Resin Obsession Super Clear Resin is a 2:1 two-part resin. This means you use half as much of part B as you use of part A.
Before you start mixing the resin, you should put on a pair of nitrile or latex gloves. This will protect your hands from the sticky resin.
When doing projects in small molds, I like to mix only a small amount of resin at a time so I don’t run out of pot time (the amount of time before the curing process starts) before I run out of mixed resin. If you run out of resin before you’ve filled in all the cavities, you can always mix more. I use 2 cups to measure the resin parts to ensure I get the correct amounts. Because they’re the easiest lines to see on the small graduated cups, I usually measure in drams.
If you have never mixed resin before, this is a good article for you to read: How to mix resin and hardener
Step 3: Add resin to the mold
When the resin is mixed, use the stir stick to drizzle it into the Pearl Ex painted cavities on the mold. Careful not to overfill. If you do, the back of the finished piece will not be flat and you risk resin running over the side of the mold.
Option 2: Mixing Pearl Ex into Resin
The second way to use Pearl Ex with resin is to mix the powder into it.
Step 1: Add powder to the resin
Pour a small amount of the clear resin into a clear dry cup. With a dry stir stick, dip into the Pearl Ex and measure out a small amount of powder, about an eighth of a teaspoon or so, or about the size of a pea. Drop the powder into the cup without letting the stir stick touch the resin. . If you want, as you mix, you can add more pigment using this stick. Do not put a wet stir stick into the Pearl Ex.
Step 2: Mix in the powder
With another stir stick, slowly mix the powder into the resin. Mix in the powder until it is all wet and looks like thick paint.
Step 3: Add the colored resin to the mold
Just like the clear resin before, you want to slowly drizzle the Pearl Ex resin into the mold. Make sure you get the coloured resin into all parts of the cavity. The Pearl Ex mixed resin is thicker than the clear resin (plus also you might be getting closer to the end of the pot time) so you might need to help it along a little to get into the edges. Use the stir stick to guide the resin where you want it to go.
Step 4: Remove bubbles
To help reduce the inclusion of bubbles in the resin, you can use a heat tool (such as one used for heat embossing on cards) or lighter to encourage bubbles to rise to the top. Many bubbles will pop on their own. You might have to use a toothpick or the edge of a clean stir stick to encourage bubbles congregating on the sides to pop.
Step 5: Set aside to cure
Cover your molds and wait for the resin to cure. It is always best to cover your curing resin because you don’t want dust or cat hair or other unwanted things to become part of your project.
With Resin Obsession Super Clear resin, in 6-8 hours, the resin should be cured enough to remove from the molds, but you can wait longer to unmold them. I often will let resin cure overnight since it’s easier to wait for the cure when you can completely ignore it and aren’t thinking about how the project might turn out.
Step 6: Demold
Unmolding is one of my favourite parts of doing resin projects. This is when you get to see the magic that has occurred.
Since we’re using flexible silicone molds for this project, you simply have to bend the mold a little and the casting should pop right out.
Step 7: Finish the edges
After you remove the casting from the mold, you will want to flip it over and sand off any sharp edges. You can use a small piece of sand paper or an Emory board. While sanding your resin, you should always use safety glasses to protect your eyes from the grit. You can learn more about how to sand resin.
When you look at the items you cast, you’ll notice the difference between the techniques. The ones which you painted Pearl Ex in before adding clear resin have a slight transparency with sparkle (right). The ones which were cast with Pearl Ex mixed into the resin are completely opaque and have a metallic marbled look (left).
The pair of shells on the left are from the same colour of Pearl Ex as are the pair on the right.
Step 8: Use your resin charms
So, now that you’ve made these molded leaves, shells, flowers, etc. what are you going to do with them? You can add molded items to Mixed Media projects, other resin projects, use them as embellishments on cards, add a glue-on bail and make them into jewelry, or many other things.
Some examples I’ve used the cast leaves for:
Want to learn more than using Pearl Ex with resin? Then you will want to get your copy of the PDF book Resin Jewelry Making. The Amazon best-selling book has helped thousands of artists worldwide make crafts and jewelry with resin that will have people saying, ‘Wow, you made that?!’ Buy now and have it to read in minutes!
Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2020 Resin Obsession, LLC