What kind of resin should I use?

What kind of resin should I use for making jewelry and other projects?

jewelry resin

This is one of the most common questions I get asked about making things with resin.  There is no ‘one size fits all’ resin, and there are MANY things to consider when choosing a resin.  I will walk you through how I look at the process, whether I am doing resin for myself or helping another resin crafter make a decision.

Let’s imagine you have walked into your favorite butcher shop.  You tell the meat cutter at the counter that you want a steak and ask what kind you should buy.  One of the responses you’re likely to get is a question asking “What do you want to make?”.  Choosing a resin is really no different than this situation.  To be more specific, I would frame my response into “What are you hoping the end result to be?”

If you’re a beginner resin caster, I cannot stress here enough that you need to start with an epoxy resin.  Why?  Relatively speaking, epoxy resin is the ‘easiest’ to work with.  It generally doesn’t require a respirator mask and tends to be the most forgiving of environmental factors, such as humidity.  It also usually mixes as 1:1 to 2:1 ratios, so it’s easier to get the proper measurements (versus drops into ounces).  You will still need to take the proper resin safety precautions, but I generally don’t worry about using epoxy resin in my home like I do when using polyester or polyurethane resin.  Epoxy resin is also generally widely available and usually has the fewest shipping restrictions (some can ship by air).  I also like that epoxy resin generally has the longest pot time (approximately 20 to 40 minutes to work with it), so it’s great for beginners that are still fumbling and getting used to working with resin.

So you may be asking yourself, “Which kind of epoxy resin should I use?”  Once again, it depends on what you want your final casting to look like.  Here’s a few other things to consider when choosing a specific epoxy resin.

Clarity:

If you want your final project to be clear, you want to make sure to start with a clear resin.  Also realize that clear doesn’t necessarily mean ‘color free’.  Some clear resins will have a yellow tint to them, which varies depending on the kind of resin.  If you’re unsure about how clear the resin is when cast, be sure to check with the retailer or manufacturer before making a purchase.  Know that the clearer and more color free the resin, the more it will cost (extra expense to remove the impurities).  Know too that if you’re going to add color, having a color free clear resin probably isn’t as big a deal since the yellow tint will make a minimal impact to the final casting.  You may even want to consider using an opaque resin, which will save you some money.

Mold or no mold?:

Are you trying to cast the resin into something, or are you wanting to put the resin on as ‘stand alone’?  If you want to place the resin on something without sides, you want to be sure you are using a doming resin.  This kind of resin is a bit thicker and has the extra surface tension to make sure it doesn’t run over the sides.  Know too though, that this resin being a bit thicker, is also more difficult to remove bubbles from.

Of course each epoxy resin has its own specific advantages and disadvantages, so if you’re a beginner resin jewelry maker, I would suggest you experiment with different kinds of resin.  You will eventually develop a preference based upon your experiences!

So if epoxy resin is so great, why would I use anything else?

Unfortunately, epoxy resin can’t do everything.  Relatively speaking, epoxy is a ‘soft’ resin.  You may have noticed that when you cast epoxy resin, you can dent your fingernail in the finished casting if you try hard enough.  Polyester and polyurethane resin both cure very hard.  When you’re done, they can have the hardness and clearness of glass.  In fact, both can be polished to a high gloss with a polishing wheel and the appropriate compound.  (Epoxy resin won’t withstand the heat produced by a polishing wheel and will turn cloudy on the surface.)

Like this post? You may be interested in  MasterCast resin TotalCast resin FAQ

I know what you’re thinking, “Oh my gosh, this is exactly what I need!  I hate having to do all that extra stuff to epoxy resin to get it glossy!”  Sit down, I have a few downsides to share with you.  First polyester and some polyurethanes require that you wear a respirator mask with them.  In fact, polyester resin will literally take your breath away the smell is so bad.  I would NEVER do this in my house or a space that I needed to occupy in the next 12 hours.  (When I do resin polyester in my studio, I save it for the last thing in the day.  I cast the resin then leave for the day.)

Polyester resin does have an advantage over epoxy in that is it generally cheaper and is great for casting deep molds.  However, polyester resin has a short pot time (generally 8 to 10 minutes) and the surface exposed to air during the curing will remain tacky.  (You can either sand this side down or coat with resin gloss sealer spray.) Oh, and one more thing about polyester resin, while it may be crystal clear on the day you cast it, it will yellow with time.  This yellowing is also sped up by exposure to UV light.  (Now that being said, I have experimented with polyester and put finished castings in the Florida sun for days to see what happens.  Overall, I’ve been pleased so far — so I’m thinking this yellowing will happen in years, not months or days.)

Polyurethane resin, on the other hand, generally has fewer curing issues and there is a lot of options when choosing one, but you should know that polyurethane resin is VERY moisture sensitive.  In fact, it hates humid weather.  The only way I could get polyurethane resin to work for me in Florida (moderate to high humidity) was to completely seal off a room and run the dehumidifier constantly.  While I loved the finished product and loved that some of these polyurethanes allow you to have a completely cured and demolded piece in 15 minutes (yes, I said minutes), it was just too difficult to make all of that work.  (A 15 minute cure time meant I only had a 2 minute pot time, which meant it was nutty trying to mix and pour in under 120 seconds!)  You can get polyurethanes with longer pot (and cure) times, but that meant, at least for me, a longer period of time to run the dehumidifier to make sure it cured properly.  If you’re going to venture into polyurethanes, also know that since polyurethanes hate moisture, you need to make sure to use colorants specifically designed for them.

So here’s my breakdown of how I use resin:

I use epoxy for everything unless I am trying to cast something larger that I want to have a shiny gloss finish.  In that case, I use polyester because I can polish it on my buffing wheel instead of using the gloss sealer spray or coating with another layer of resin.  If I lived in a less humid environment (like the desert), I would definitely do more with polyurethane resin as I suspect I could work with it without needing a dehumidifier.

So now that you know a little more about the resins you can use for making jewelry and other resin crafts, don’t forget to read our article on how to make resin jewelry.  You can also find all of our jewelry quality resin in our resin category.

What else do you consider when choosing a resin for jewelry making or crafting?

335 Comments

Alexis

In case anyone else is a painter and is interested in what I use to coat paintings – I use Environtex lite and it comes out beautiful every time. I have coated small paintings as well as large 3’x4′ ones. Not a great idea to do on a wrapped canvas as pooling occurs. Alexis Lennon

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Kristen

What is the difference between Environtex lite and Clear Polyester Casting Resin by Castin’ Craft? I am a painter and I am looking into what’s best to coat my canvas paintings. Something that will give it a “glass topping” look. Thanks!

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Katherine Swift

The Envirotex Lite is an epoxy whereas the Clear polyester casting resin is a polyester. You can use the Envirotex Lite, although it cures with a slight amber tint. It isn’t my first choice for artwork coating. You definitely won’t want to use the polyester resin as the surface that is exposed to air can remain tacky after curing. I would suggest the TotalCast resin. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin?page=2 We only have the small size of it currently, but expect more of the larger sizes next week.

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Rich

Can you use different resins in multiple coats. ie. start with Poly resin let cure and than coat over the top with epoxy resin?

I am trying to get a hard plastic like rigid shiny finish on real dried orchids?

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Katherine Swift

@Rich, I have layered with different brands of epoxy, but have never put epoxy over polyester for example. If you want to try, I would suggest experimenting with a couple of practice pieces first.

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Marisol

How many polyresin layers will it take to create hard glass like feel to coat real flower petals?_

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Kelly

Im a beginner to resin and want to embed bottle caps and make some coasters. I had the Easy Cast-which was prob at least a year old, and worked well. Low bubbles and nice and clear. I ran out, so I bought the Envirotex Lite-pour on. This is not as clear and full of bubbles. Is this the wrong type of resin for my project? What brand would you recommend or how can I clear up all the littles bubbles the muddled my coasters? Thanks!!

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blondtonic

The best remedy for those pesky bubbles in the use of a blow torch. Works in instantly. removes them like magic. Just swipe over quickly. I’m told using a straw works good too.

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Katherine

The Envirotex is really meant to be more of a coating. It was probably too thick for the mold. Unfortunately, there is no way to clear up the bubbles in a casted product once it’s cured. The good news though is that East Cast works very well for coasters.

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Kristina

Hi Katherine,

Sorry I am posting this here, but I can’t get my computer to work on the forums….(something I’m doing wrong, I am sure).
I am trying to figure out something to coat some flat copper or brass blank sheets with. I’m going to use these as bases to pendents which I’m gluing random items onto. Since the flat metal sheet bases I’m using are unfinished I figured it would be nice to coat all of, or at least the back of it with an epoxy resin so that the person wearing it wouldn’t get an allergic reaction or have the piece tarnish due to sweat if the back was touching their skin.
Do you think epoxy resin would work for this?
Thank you so so much for your help!
-Kristina

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Katherine Swift

Kristina,

I think epoxy resin would work very well for this. A few other things come to mind as well for possible use: wax (I like Renaissance wax), acrylic spray, maybe even mod podge??

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Kristina

Thank you so much for the response Katherine.
For Renaissance wax, if I were to use it on raw brass or copper – do you know how long it “stays” for? I’m assuming it wears off over time, is that an accurate assumption on my part?

Thanks again. You are the most helpful person I’ve found on the internet. And it’s a big world out here!

I’ll for sure be using this store in my near future.

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Katherine

Kristina,

I have used the Renaissance wax in the past to seal my sterling silver and resin pendants and have been quite pleased with the results. I always suggested to my customers that they clean with a soft cloth and a mild soapy water if necessary. I would suspect putting a good grease cutting soap on the pendant would take the wax off. I suppose with regular wear it would eventually need recoating, but I can’t tell you exactly when that might be. Glad I could be of help. 🙂

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Chelsea

Hello Katherine,
Based on the comment above by Kelly, I am thinking that the Easy Cast is the best for my project because I am trying to cover a table top with bottle caps, but I just wanted to double-check it will hold up as well as a polyester one, that sounds like it is harder?? Many thanks!!

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Katherine Swift

Chelsea,

It depends. If you’re looking at a layer of 1/8″ or less, I would go with the Envirotex. It’s meant for table top coatings, so it might be fine for your project. It will show some wear sooner than an table top poured with polyester, but it’s certainly easier to work with.

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Sherrie

I want to cover a 3 foot diameter table with a clear resin. It will be going over small pebbles to make a table for outdoors. What would be my best option? A beginner, but I like to try new things.

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Kerri

Hi there, I’m wanting to start making resin charms with easy cast resin. Ill be working in a room that has an outside door, two large opening windows and two smaller windows. Ill make sure to open them when i use the resin. However I’m worried, will I need a mask? I live in the UK, and I have no idea what to look for in UK masks? Do you have any suggestions? Please help.

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Katherine

@Kerri, that should be enough ventilation for you if it’s the Easy Cast Epoxy resin. I don’t think it’s any more bothersome than using fingernail polish.

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Diane

I’ve made a bunch of posts all over the place… I live in Maui and have had a hard time finding the materials I need. The only epoxy resin I can find is Parks Super Glaze. Do you have any feedback about this brand? It says it’s “ultra-thick.” Will this give me any problems with casting in molds?

And thanks for answering all my other questions I posted elsewhere! Really appreciate it… 🙂

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Becky

You seem to be the Answer Lady! You have much wisdom and willing to share. Bless You & may Your kindness return to You & Yours 100 fold! I have a curious need. I am trying to ‘fill in’ the letters in a stepping stone my friend made me with ‘Beckys Place 2013’ drawn in concrete. I want to color pink resin and place 4mm darker pink swarovski chatons into the pour. Should I use the Envirotex Lite?

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Katherine Swift

@Becky,

Yes, envirotex lite should work fine. (Thank you for the sweet comments!)

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Linda Lane

I am making suncatchers and am using a clear gloss to cover them but am having a hard time getting it smooth. What do you recommend? Also I am having a really hard time finding black pens for outlining!

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Katherine Swift

What kind of clear gloss are you using? Have you tried Sharpie pens?

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Birgitta

Hi Katherine,

I’m interested in making my own hair sticks using photographs I’ve printed on photo paper and cust out. What is the best type of resin to use to great a clear glossy surface that is also hard enough to use for a hair stick? Also, what method would you recomend for applying the resin? Domming or layering? Thanks!

Birgitta

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Kristina

I would like to fill a ceramic or earthenware bezel with resin. Which resin would work with this (or would it work)? Would the interior of the bezel need to be glazed or unglazed? Many thanks! Kristina

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Ziggy

Hi Katherine

I am using CR20 Polyester Casting Resin and adding a pigment paste to the mixture. I have used the 1% catylyst to the resin and also doubled it as it is only 150 ml tester mould. The mould was then put in a vacuum pot, air bubbles forced out. The results were interesting in both cases..the resin never really became solid…peeling off the brass pen tubes..!!

I then bought some pigment paste from the same supplier as the resin they manufactured. This time it still had not fully hardened under final turning on the lathe.. but was better than first two experiments..

Could the problem be the pigment paste causing problems with the setting agent.. as I use Pearlex Powders to enhance my casts adding pine cones for example ..no problems at all..

I read on your blog somewhere that this can happen with using pigment paste.. If it does can you use powders to alter colour of resin..and does it work as well forming a solid colour..ie Ultramarine??

Thank you

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Katherine Swift

@Ziggy,

I don’t have any experience with that kind of polyester casting resin. My first thought is that there is too much moisture to allow the polyester resin to fully cure. Have you talked to the manufacturer? Since you’re using their resin and pigment paste, I would think they would have some good recommendations for you.

Yes, you can use powder colorants, but unfortunately, you can’t mix two powder colors to make a new color. If ultramarine is what you want, then you need to add a ultramarine powder.

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Katherine Swift

@Kristina,

I would say most any epoxy resin would work for this project. How big is the vessel? I might make a specific choice based upon the volume of resin you need.

As for glazed or unglazed, glazed would be preferable if the unglazed pottery changes its look when it gets wet.

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Alan

Excuse my but I ask my dad to buy me a v for vendatta mask that is made from resin but he refuses saying that resin is bad for your skin and those selling on ebay are for display only. What is he talking about and since all of v for vendatta are made from resin? Thanks.

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Alan

Excuse my but I ask my dad to buy me a v for vendatta mask that is made from resin but he refuses saying that resin is bad for your skin and those selling on ebay are for display only. What is he talking about and since all of v for vendatta are made from resin? Thanks.

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Katherine

@Alan,
Once resin is mixed, it is inert and shouldn’t cause any problem to your skin unless you are extra sensitive to it.

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Ignant

Hello Katherine,
I’m looking for polyurethane doming resin but struggling to find a place to purchase. It will be poured over vinyl decal then mounted on a car. Due to the sun exposure, I believe polyurethane is the way to go. No yellowing, flexible & no cracking. Can you name some brands & online retailer. I tried Arts & Crafts places but only found Epoxy. Thank you

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Katherine Swift

@Ignant,

Try the folks at smoothon.com. They have a large selection of polyurethane resins that should be able to meet your needs.

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Katherine Swift

@Chloe,

Yes, epoxy resin would work. You will need to do two pours: one for the ivory pegasus and one for the black background.

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stacie

Hello, I am a thinking of using polyurethane for my first time, because i do not want yellowing or bubbles that may happen with epoxy. (from reading your thread) Plus I live in Idaho, very dry, but cold right now…if i open windows and fan would it be ok?
Also you say epoxy is best for beginners (me), will it turn out clear, glass like without bubbles if im just making simple objects like coasters and coffee bean jar lids, etc. Its so expensive and i dont want to buy the wrong one, lol. These will be items I will sell in my craft booth.
Thank you!!

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Katherine Swift

@stacie,
You will need to follow the safety directions for the polyurethane you use. Some require respirators whereas others do not. (By the way, just because you can’t smell dangerous fumes doesn’t mean they are not there.) Since you’re a beginner, I will strongly suggest starting with an epoxy resin. The Resin Obsession super clear would be great for what you’re trying to accomplish. It casts super clear and bubbles are almost never a problem.

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Katalina

I’m thinking of making cabochons/decoden for a phone case and I am putting the resin in a mold. Should I use epoxy resin for this? And what brand would be good? And if I want it glossy should I purchase a glaze? Sorry for all the questions x

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Hannah

I am a newbie venturing into the world of resin(jewellery) & after a long search have stumbled on this site. Your answers seem so informative & knowledgeable, I was wondering if you could help me? I have decided to use epoxy resin as I am new to this aspect of craft & its properties seem to tick most of the boxes, however, I am worried that it may discolour, cause irritation to piercings (as it may come into direct contact with them) and ideally I would like to be able to waterproof the finished piece. Are there any varnishes/coatings that would allow the finished product to be hypoallergenic, waterproof & have long lasting colour/clarity? Thank you so much in advance, Kind regards, Hannah

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Katherine Swift

@Katalina,

You will need a strong resin that will be somewhat impact resistant. I would suggest either the Resin Obsession super clear epoxy resin or the Alumilite Amazing casting polyurethane resin. As long as the mold for your case was produced with a shiny template, your casting should come out shiny as well.

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Brandon

I am planning on building a bar top for my Daiquiri Shop. I have purchased 8 foot bamboo poles that I want to lace together and then cast in Resin. I plan on building a large box mold out of melemine and adding my bamboo and then filling it. It will be over 1 inch thick, but the bamboo will fill most of the area. My question is, what type of resin do you recommend for a clear pour and that can be removed from the mold and is halfway durable. Also, do you have any experience cutting a fully cured cast? Can it be cut on a table saw? Thanks so much. Just found this website and have enjoyed your suggestions.

Thanks
http://www.breezyislandice.com

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Katherine Swift

@Hannah,

I don’t know of any coatings that would specifically make resin hypoallergenic, but if it has cured properly, it shouldn’t cause an allergy problem for the great majority of people. You may want to go with a jewelry quality resin, like the Resin Obsession super clear resin, which is designed for people to use for wearable jewelry.

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Alison

Hi Katherine, I have learned so much just reading your answers to all the other questions–thank you!
I want to make pebble soap dishes, using just enough water proof resin to hold the pebbles together (i.e. I don’t plan to fully embed the pebbles in the resin, so water can drain through the pebbles.) What resin would be the best choice?
Thanks!

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Katherine

@Alison,

I would either try the Envirotex Lite (assuming it’s going to be a thin layer) or I would try the Resin Obsession super clear resin. The super clear resin should hold up fine to prolonged water exposure, but I’m not sure about the Envirotex Lite. It’s great for countertop coatings and getting water on it, but I just don’t know about prolonged water exposure. I would expect it would be fine here, but you might want to try a test piece first.

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Sumona

Hi Katherine,
I have a bunch of questions regarding EasyCast resin.Can you kindly help me? I am considering selling resin jewelry on Etsy. Can I sell EasyCast resin based jewelry on Etsy? Is EasyCast resin toxic after drying? I had followed a couple of your videos about epoxy resin and was highly motivated to make some.But in Germany, I did not get epoxy resin so I made some polyester resin jewelry, but it was too cumbersome so I dropped the idea, although they looked wonderful. I wanted to try an alternative, may be EasyCast. Please suggest.

Thank you,
Sumona.

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Katherine Swift

@Sumona,

Yes, Easy Cast is safe once it’s cured and is good for jewelry.

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kiki

Hey there! I have just started painting some abstract acrylic art & would like to put a high glass/shiny coat over the top-However, most of the colors that I am using are neutrals-So I can’t afford to risk the yellowing…What would you suggest that I use?

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Shannon

Hi Katherine 🙂

I haven’t started yet, but primarily interested in resin Pyramids. I ordered Easy Cast epoxy, but as I’m reading, I feel like it’s not going to set up in a larger mold? My molds are 3-4 inches at base.
Also, wanted to know how to layer them, to make chakras. I read that basic food coloring will work. How to do the layering? Would I need to wait 24 hours between each layer?? UGH. I don’t have a place where I could use poly resins. 🙁 I have some really great ideas, though. What is your advice on this?
Thank you so much for this site!

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Katherine Swift

@Shannon, The Easy Cast should work fine, but don’t use food coloring. Resin doesn’t like water! To do the layers, you don’t have to wait until they are completely cured, just cured enough that the two layers won’t blend. Two to three hours between layers should be fine.

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Danielle

Hello! I make antler and bone jewelry. I am looking for a thick durable coating for my pendants. It needs to be crystal clear and shiny. I affix gemstones to the bone and antler cross sections and then cover them. So far I have used poly, but I don’t like how toxic it is and it takes a lot of layers to get even a thin coating. What would you suggest? Thanks in advance for your time and help!

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Taylor

Hi Katherine!
I work for a company that sells and makes their own body jewelry (ever see those kids with the big holes in their ears?) I follow your blog as a guideline, yet I can’t get my resin to come out clear. We make image plugs, which consist of either an acrylic or steel base. I then cut out an image and lay it into the blank and coat it in resin to give it a dome. I’m having trouble with bubbles and my resin not looking clear. I’m using Max 1618 Impregnating Resin. Is my resin the problem? Are there differences between the kind I’m using and regular resin? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!

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Katherine

@Taylor, I’m not familiar with that resin. I would suggest contacting that manufacturer for tech support.

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Julie

I am making art projects with pieces of broken glass and glass beads on canvas. What is the best type of epoxy resin to use to coat all the glass pieces and seal them into place? I want everything to be clear (no yellowing or bubbles).
thanks!

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Sizzler

Hi Katherine
I’m wanting to experiment with pendants which would effectively be a thick silver bezel with a silver back. I want to pour the resin into the pendant cup half way, then set some shell into the half set resin and top it up with a resin top coat. The amounts I will need at a time will be very very small. On the same principle, can you mix sand with resin to give a rough appearance rather than a shiny one, and what would be the best type both these applications. Thank you for your help.
Sizzler

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Susan

Hi Katherine. I want to make a wood tea tray and embed sea glass, pebbles & pottery shards. Have never used resin and the posts I find related to this type of project are contradictory. The Easy Cast is limited to amount that can be poured, and the polyester types seem to need a respirator and special shop. Can you help me figure out what kind of resin to use? This will be a usable tray, not just a decorative one. Thank you for your help!

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Tom

I am making a bottle cap epoxy table top. I used Parks Supr Glaze to start, but am finding that I need more than I originally thought. I have to cover the initial coatings with more epoxy to make it completly level and blemish free. Will it be OK if I switch to a different brand of clear coat epoxy for the next coat, or will the 2 different brands react badly together?

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Katherine Swift

@Tom, It has been my experience that if you put ‘like’ on ‘like’, i.e. epoxy on epoxy, you will most likely be okay.

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Robert

Hi I would like to pour resin inside a wooden vessel to make it watertight so that it can be used as a vase. I can build up layers or maybe pour some and turn the lathe on to spin the resin onto the inside walls if that will work.
Please kindly suggest the best product for this use,thank you.

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Katherine Swift

@Robert, I’m sorry to say that resin isn’t suitable for what you would like to accomplish.

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Annabeth

Oh hello!! I really hope you can help me! I’ve spent hours researching epoxies and still am not sure what will work best. I’m leaning toward Hardman Double-Bubble Green, but it doesn’t list “wood” which might be a problem. I am not a crafter, so I need a lot of help…
My 4-year-old daughter (now in heaven) fought cancer for 2.5 years and “earned” a glass bead for each and every procedure she went through. I want to display them on my wall, so I bought a window (the one that would flank a front door). I hot-glued each bead down on the wooden back, and eventually the glass top will sit over it. However, the glass beads come off with a little hand pressure, and I know a few will fall off when the project is upright on the wall (which is unacceptable). Someone told me to cover it with “liquid glass” or epoxy. This project means a great deal to me emotionally, so I can’t mess it up because I can’t go back and get 1265 beads.
So I need a CLEAR epoxy/resin/?/ that will hold little glass beads to a backing that is partially hot glue/partially wood. There ARE wood sides to the project. I don’t intend for the beads to be fully submerged, as there will be a glass window on top eventually. What would you recommend? Thank you very much! (feel free to email me if you’d like.)

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Annabeth

I should also add, I’d like it to be a glossy finish, but because some of the beads will probably be sticking up through the epoxy/resin, sanding won’t be an option. (The beads are all different sizes). Again, thank you so much.

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Annabeth

Hi Katherine, yes, I have thought about using a different glue. It would just require many hours to pull up each individual bead, pick off the glue beneath it, and reglue it. I should have just used a better glue to begin with. I was hoping to save time by just pouring something over them, but perhaps i just need to spend another 10 hours re-glueing.

Will that E6000 adhesive glue glass to wood? Just verifying!! Thank you for your help.

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Venita

Hi Katherine,
I’m wanting to make resin castings for plugs for my ears as in body jewelry. I need to know if resin is too toxic to do this? Any suggestions would welcomed! 🙂
Thanks,
Venita

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Keshia

Hi Katherine,I saw in a earlier post that you suggested Resin Obsession super clear epoxy resin or Alumilite Amazing Casting Polyurethane resin to make cabochons. Are any one of these resins harmful.

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Katherine

@Keshia, Most epoxies don’t have a strong odor, but polyesters do. Some polyurethanes do as well.

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Katherine

@Keshia, I would suggest becoming familiar with the MSDS information on the resins you would like to use. Part of that information includes health and safety guidelines.

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Rob

I have what may be a goofball question: I’m experimenting with casting for the first time to make Halloween decorations- specifically a lifesize skull that I want to add LEDs to to create a glowing effect. I’m new to casting and on a budget and the prices for resin were a bit of a shock. My question is can I use off the shelf Polyurethane (i.e. clear Minwax) to do this? I have a silicone mold that’s currently curing. Also due to volume of material to fill a large cast, I’m attenpting a mold within a mold- I sculpted a ‘brain’ that I’ll make a silicone mold of and insert inside the skull mold. My thought is that I’ll be using less fill volume (will be semi-hollow) and create a cool 3-D see thru effect. But back to the central question: Minwax is Polyurethane right, so can it be used to cast? I was also curious if the Castin’ Craft catalyst would improve curing the Minwax?

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Katherine Swift

@Rob, Minwax is meant to be a coating (e.g. for a bartop). It’s not meant to be used in a mold. You should also only use catalyst designed for the specific resin. The Castin’ Craft catalyst would not work with the minwax resin.

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Rosa

I use an epoxy resin from Little Windows.com The reasin is easy to use and dries hard and clear like glass. Its by far the best I’ve seen for ease of use for beginners and those who are experienced. 🙂

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Patricia

Hi, I am interested in “preserving” a black widow spider in resin for a paperweight. I am a complete novice on this. It will probably be about 2 to 2 1/2 inches thick squared (or so). Which resin type would work for that? How do I go about “drying” the spider without the large part of it’s body shriveling up? Any info on this?I would really appreciate it! thanks, Pat

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Pat

Hi Katherine, I’m a novice in resin and just as much a novice on the computer – i couldn’t figure out how to get to the forum?..I have watched some you tube videos??but specifically?.have not seen anything about spiders in resin??.I have read that the spider has to be dryed, but when that happens, the body shrivels up??any information you can pass along would be appreciated. Thanks,

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Katherine

@Pat, cut and paste the link from my post above into a new browser tab to get to the forum post.

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Rebecca

Hi. I live on the Big Island of Hawaii and have found a product by fiberglasshawaii.com 2:1 clear epoxy resin. It is less than 50bucks at ACE hardware for the catalyst and a quart of the resin, so I thought I would give it a try. I plan on using it for making orgone. Any experience with this product?

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Anupama

I want to use resin pebble tile. I dont know how to use. I stay in goa and here the climate is too humid. Kindly suggest. I have pebbles where in i want to make a tile out of it.

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Katherine

@Anupama, You may want to use a space dehumidifier while you’re working to allow for better curing.

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Starr

Hi Katherine! Thank you for your expertise and for sharing it with all of us! What a blessing and a gift! I am new to resin so I understand to use an epoxy. I have an old window. I want to create a 3d effect design by using random broken or cut pieces of glass onto the existing window frame. I’m not sure if I should first glue my pieces onto the window and then pour an epoxy resin over to coat, or if I should first pour my resin onto the window frame and then place my pieces of glass into the resin? Can you tell me your opinion and which resin would be best for this project? Many thanks to you!

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Katherine

@Starr, I would glue the pieces down first. Be sure to coat the back of the piece well with glue so that you have a good adhesion across the entire surface. Doing it the other way would probably still work, but there’s a greater risk of trapped bubbles rising up later in your resin.

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Kathryn

Hi Katherine!!! You are fantastic and so informative :-)…thank you for you info and the answers to other peoples questions which where also helpful however I won’t to build a table top (no surface to start with) out of resin and mosaic tiles then later attaching it to a cast iron base…what resin do you recommend? How can I build the surface for it without the resin sticking to it (a box frame covered with wax paper)? How thick should I make it? Will I be able to smooth the edges after it cures? Many thanks for your time 😉

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Katherine

@Kathryn, since you’re pouring the resin into a mold, I would suggest our Resin Obsession super clear resin. The resin won’t stick to wax paper, but your box is going to get heavy. Make sure it has good support while curing. The thickness is your choice, but you will be able to sand it to smooth out any rough edges after it has cured.

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Rebecca

I have attempted to use resin in small molds for jewelry. I used alumilite and it cured way too quickly as I barely was able to get it out of the cup after the instructed mixing time. Is there a resin with a longer working time? A few bubbles are not a big deal to me, but the little bit I was able to get out was filled with bubbles.

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AmazonEve(AMH)

Hi Ms.K! I’m love your dye products! I purchase them from you all the time! I have a concern about epoxy resin. I have a online store and I make funky jewelry using different shaped resin molds. I like epoxy resin for all of the reason you’ve listed and I’ve been crafting with it for a year now. But I want to find a type of clear casting epoxy resin that will harden like glass. Is there such s thing as that? I mean my pieces come out nicely cured but I want something that will be rock hard and easy to work with that wont eat up my glitter and dye I put into it.

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Katherine

@AMH, have you tried the Resin Obsession super clear resin? It works great in molds, cures clear and very hard.

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Katherine

@RebeccaG, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is designed for molds and has a 30 minute working time. Bubbles are almost never a problem. It won’t cure as fast as the Alumilite resin you used, but it will be cured within 24 hours.

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Heather

Hi, I am making a base( almost 2 1/2″ with resin to insert a cylindrical lamp and I have used FAMOWOOD. This is the second time I use it and perhaps it is clear like glass, it always become yellow as it is curing. I also used resin releaser this time, instead of oil like I was told and I bought it at Michaels. Any idea of why it becomes so yellow? and is it going to work to release this kind of material?
Thank you

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Katherine

@Heather, unfortunately, I’m not familiar with that brand of resin. Some resins will yellow with time, especially if it’s not one designed for resin jewelry and crafts. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer.

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Linda

Hi Katherine, thank you so much for that very clear and easy to understand explanation about the different types of resins. I was wondering if the epoxy resin would be the right product to use to make furniture appliqués in silicone molds? Also, I’ve seen that some of the appliqués that they sell on Ebay are made of resin and “wood fillers”. Do you know what type of wood filler can be safely mixed with resin? Can sawdust be mixed with epoxy resin for these appliqués?
Thank you!

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Katherine

@Linda, I would use a very hard curing epoxy or even a polyurethane resin. Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with wood fillers. Sawdust will take up ‘water stains’ when mixed with resin, unless it is sealed first.

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chris

Dear Katherine you seem to know a lot about resins. I want to make A5 paper sheet sized clear panels about 10mm thick with jewellery and other gubbins set in them. What would be best to use, I have never used resin before. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

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Katherine Swift

Do you have a mold for your project or will you be using A5 paper sheet as your template?

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chris

Dear Katherine thanks for your reply. I intend to make a mould. Essentially a frame on a board lined with polythene and grease agent. Arrange items in frame and then pour over resin. What do you think?
Chris

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Katherine Swift

Using a good mold release will help. Will you be able to take apart your mold box? Since you won’t be able to flex it, I wonder how you will get out your casting.

chris

The polythene would lift off and that’s how I envisage removing plate. Gonna practice with it but what type of resin should I use.
Thanks
Chris

Richard

Hi Katherine – I am trying to embed objects in a large casting in a glass container, two layers with the object sitting on the 1st cured layer. I am using a Polyester Resin with a Catalyst but am having issues with the casting getting very hot and then discolouring from clear to a yellowish colour. Can you advise if this discolouring can be controlled along with the heat by reducing the Catalyst – does a larger casting need a lower amount of Catalyst? Thanks in advance!

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Katherine

@Sandy, I would think so, but can’t be absolutely sure since I’m not a chemist. I would suggest checking directly with your resin manufacturer to be positive.

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Sandy

Hi Katherine~I make replica foods for museums and historic houses, and have long used museum-safe materials like air-dry clays, papier mache, acrylic paints, etc., due to concerns about off-gassing and potential damage to period pieces. Having recently used polyurethane resins for an outdoor food display, I was relieved to see your comment that, once cured, resin is inert. I cast small fish in resin. Once thoroughly cured, they were sealed with an acrylic sealer; painted and shaded with acrylic paints; then given another final coat of acrylic sealer. Do you think encapsulating cast/cured resin pieces in museum-safe acrylic sealers should nullify curatorial concerns about off-gassing? Many thanks.

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Kelly

I’ve been using epoxy over wood tables but it doesn’t seem to get hard enough. I have an extremely large tree that I am planning to cut up horizontally into round stump cuts….where you can see all the rings….. and need the best, hardest, cheapest, product available to cover them. Any suggestions?
I am on facebook Kelly Palmer, {the Tamaha giant} in case you want to see pictures of what I am doing.

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Vanich

Do you mind if I quote a couple of your posts as long as I prodvie credit and sources back to your site?My blog site is in the exact same area of interest as yours and my visitorswould genuinely benefit from some of the information youprodvie here. Please let me know if this ok with you.Regards!

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Apple

Hi Katherine,

I’m using Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy, however I noticed that it has a slight yellow tinge to it. Would you have any recommendations for epoxy resins that dry completely colourless? Thanks!

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Katherine

@Apple, if you are pouring the resin into molds, I would suggest the Resin Obsession super clear resin. It dries crystal clear. No yellow!

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Amy

Hi Katherine,

I started using Ice resin for my first resin projects.

I have made two rings in a silicone mould however, I embedded some string into it and some of the string is slightly sticking out and on the other one, the string has left the corner without some resin in it.

I am wondering can I add more resin to it once it has cured to cover up these pieces and then sand it back?

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Leslie

I’m a complete novice but making a project for my son’s school auction. I need to set bottle caps in a pattern in a wood frame. What do you suggest? Thanks!

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Katherine

@Leslie, if you just want the bottle caps to be a decoration, I would suggest gluing them on instead of trying to set them in resin.

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Crissy

Hi Katherine,
So excited to find your blog!! It’s great you willing share your knowledge & experience so freely. THANK YOU x
I’m brand spanking new to the use of resin.
My project is to use fabric to cover a timber table then cover in resin to seal, protect & preserve the fabric.
Best adhesive adhere fabric to table & best clear resin to use on top please?

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esi

Hi Katherine, thanx a lot for your very informative article, Im gonna fill a big gap between two 1 metere long logs with resin, to form a table!!! What do you suggest؟! And i also have to mold it too.
Thanx for your helps.

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Katherine

@Michelle, If you are looking for an epoxy, then I would suggest using the Resin Obsession super clear resin. Otherwise, if you are experienced with resin, a polyester would be a good choice here as well.

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Michelle

Hi Katherine,
I will gladly use the Resin Obsession but is it still considered a soft resin like easycast? Even though my coasters look great I can’t see myself giving them or selling them to someone if the first time they use it it’s going to get indentations. Above there was mention of a resin sealer spray, do you think if I spray that on the coaster before the first use it will solve my problem and make it a harder dent free surface?

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Michelle

Hi everyone,
Katherine is the only person I have noticed to explain that easycast is a soft resin that if you try you can easily dent a cured piece with your fingernail. That being said I’m confused as to why most people say it is great for coasters. My coasters look amazing but once I set a glass on it it leaves dents. It’s got me very discouraged because I really like making them. But I don’t like that the dent. PLESE HELP!!!

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Katherine

@Michelle, the Resin Obsession super clear resin cures much harder than the Easy Cast epoxy resin. I have used it for coasters and have been very happy with the results. The resin gloss sealer spray will give you a final glossy finish, but won’t harden the resin.

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Baylee

Hey Katherine, I will be making a laptop desk made out of plywood. I will have pictures, paint, maybe some wood letters on the surface. It will have the weight of a laptop on quite often and I would like it to be very clear. What would be the best resin to use?

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Abby

Hi Katherine I’m a beginner and would like to use resin to cover small wooden laser cut earrings, I would like a dome shape for the resin with limited application. What would be the best resin to use in this instance? Thank you

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Starr

Dear Katherine,
I am a beginner! I would like to take jagged pieces of glass and embed them onto a framed window pane. Would you recommend that I first apply a light coat of epoxy and then embed my pieces of glass (hoping this will hold the pieces in place), allow to cure. Then finish window pane with final coat of epoxy? If you feel this is correct, can you share with me the best epoxy to use that will be easiest to use and will dry the clearest with no color. It will be hung will sunlight will be shining through! Thank you for your expertise!

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lu

Hi there, I am completely new to resin, I’m wanting to make some keyrings trapping photographs inside, how do i make a hole at the top of a rectangular peice for the split ring to go through? is there a special mold or do i drill?

Many thanks!!

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Aimee

hi there could please give me some advice on sealing porcleain and ceramics? I’m cutting up old cups and plates for jewellery and the cut pieces being porous are staining easily when worn . I had tried a crystal clear epoxy but found it too soft and tended to get dirty . Obviously I’m not using a mold and need more of a brush on sealant . Thanks heaps in advance 🙂

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Ronette

Hi! I hand paint lazer cut shapes for earring making & I would like to know is there a resin I can use for glazing. I tried Mod Podge, but it doesn’t give me the thick glossy look I’m looking for. Also, if I pour the resin onto the earrings, how can I keep it from running over to the back of the earring? Thanks in advance!

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Jasmine

Hi Katherine, it seems like your the wonder woman of resin and I couldn’t find any reference of people covering CD mosaics with resin so I thought I’d ask the resin guru 🙂
I’m covering a flat table with cut up cds and want a hard protective coating that is clear enough for the cd’s to catch the light in the same way. I tried just a spray varnish but this compromised the shine. The resin also needs to not interfere with the shiny coating as I have learnt grout can (this is my second attempt at this project, I only got up to the grout last time). I think I have narrowed it down to Enviro-tex lite pour on or easy clear cast epoxy but haven’t ruled out Hiflex EasyFlow 60 Polyurethane Liquid Plastic Casting Resin. So…
1) Which, if any would you recommend for a beginner and an under 1cm deep covering and
2) how would you recommend I go about making a mould around the edges to keep the resin in while it dries? (I read the above where you mentioned a doming resin however I have been unable to find any at a reasonable price) and
3) should I use grout with this or would none be better? I don’t mind either look so it’s whatever will work best. 🙂 thank you in advance!

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Di

Firehouse kitchen table made of stained plywood with a rounded edge, vinyl department patch adhered to top then coated with resin is the goal…the table is used hard with hot pots regularly set directly on it. Unsure how to treat the wood surface prior to resin as it has already been stained several times. Also unsure of the best adhesive to use for the vinyl decal on the wood prior to epoxy. And then trying to determine the best epoxy/resin. Huge project that we never dreamed would be this hard when it first started out. Your site is the most informative I have found anywhere. Help?!

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Tracey

Hi Katherine,
I’m so glad I found your page. I hope you can help me with a problem…I have been using a two part epoxy called bio clear 810. I do pours of about 1/4 inch or more where I layer them and paint acrylic in between to create abstract paintings with depth. I have a crab coat that I pour on top as an ultra v protectant to prevent yellowing. I am however still not happy with the clarity. It tends to muddle the under paintings and still yellows a little. I do between 3 to 5 layers. In your experience what is the clearest product I could use for this? thank you so much for any advice you could give -Tracey

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Nola

Hi Katherine,
So much thanks to you for running this forum, and sharing your expertise!
I carve jewelry, mostly rings, out of wood. I usually carve tiny settings in them and set semi precious stones using a glue adhesive epoxy. Some of the stones are probably very porous material, and some also break easily. I’m wondering if painting a layer or two of epoxy resin with a brush over these stones will give them a little more strength.
Also, can I do the same on the wood rings themselves?
And if I attach the coated stones to the coated wood while still wet, will they stick well enough to each other as to not fall apart? Or should I coat both with resin..let cure, and then just use epoxy glue to adhere them together? I have no experience with epoxy resin, and am a little worried that resin might interrupt the way that light catches the stones and crystals. Thank you for any advice you can give. Much appreciated!

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Michaelle

Hello!
It’s so great to see someone who takes the time to respond to questions!
So as a beginner, I have a few questions. I’m making a large project in which I would like to use resin in three different parts. I’m making my mailbox.
In the first, I have cast iron number pieces that I would like to add colored resin to the inside with purple ink (they are like ivy and don’t have a solid middle and so by adding a colored middle it would make them easier to see). I would need it to dry hard, be uv resistant and have a transparancy.

The second, I am making my mailbox out of stained glass. I’d like to coat it in a doming, crystal clear uv proof, non scratching hard resin so as to protect it more.

And the third I saw online (as you may have) that one table that was made with photoluminescent glow powder poured I to the natural holes? Well I would like to take a wood board, carve my last name into it and pour the resin mix into that.

The big wuestions is if their is a resin I could use for all of these projects or if I would have to get different resins for each? And which polyurethane resin would you recommend? I plan to do these in my garage with the door open and during a dry day (I live in Pennsylvania).
Thanks so much!

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Katherine

You can paint the stones with epoxy, but in my opinion, I do think it will affect the light refraction of the stones. You can use the wet epoxy as a glue (or glue the wet parts together). It will adhere parts well.

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Jess

Very useful info thankyou.

Would Epoxy Resin therefore be more suitable for bubble top decals for cars? or would the epoxy be too soft still once cured? I have some decals here and I think they are epoxy as they are quite flexible.

Also where should I be looking to purchase the right resin for doming automotive decals? any advice would be greatly appreciated. 🙂

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Katherine

@Michaelle, I don’t know of a doming resin that can withstand the outdoor elements well.

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Michaelle

Thank you, I tried and contacted smooth-on after looking through their site but they said their products don’t dome and wouldn’t work for what I want to do. Thank you though! I’ll just keep looking:)

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amy

Hello, where I am at, many of the resin’s are unavailable such as the actual casting resin, the only resins I have access to are resins found in home depot, such as parks super gloss resin, or one of the quick setting epoxy resins that are mainly used for bonding, am I able to use the parks super gloss or the quick setting epoxy resin to make little beads/casts from molds? Or is the super gloss only good for “glossing”, and the quick set wouldn’t set right/ or get stuck to the silicon mold?

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Katherine Swift

@Amy, I wouldn’t expect those resins to work well. They are meant to be used as adhesives and tend to mix very thick.

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cass

Hi Katherine I was wondering could you help I am doing an Art project I want to finish my canvas works with epoxy resin which I am finding hard to get at short notice.Would it be on to use polyester resin ?

Reply
Katherine

@Cass, no, I would not recommend a polyester resin. The surface exposed to air remains sticky and would require sanding.

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Shawn

Hey Katherine,

I am looking to make a larger mold of a traditional water jug (half gallon) and want to fill the inside with nuts to make it look like the nuts suspended in water. That being said I want it to be as clear as possible just like water. Would you recommend a polyester resin or epoxy resin for this? Also since it is such a large object I am worried about cracking and how stable the resin will be once it fills the handle. Would you suggest pouring all at once or in layers to help minimize this? Any other tips you have for pouring larger molds please let me know! Thanks for your help!

Reply
Katherine Swift

@Shawn, With a casting that large, I would suggest going ‘inexpensive’. You are going to have challenges regardless of the resin you use. You will have to pour in layers because the amount of heat a casting that large and thick poured at once will be a lot. You may need to consider pressure or vacuum casting to make sure your casting(s) come out bubble free.

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Lizzy

Hi Katherine,

I am looking to cast some paper sculptures, ranging from 10 cm by 10 cm to chair size, and wondered what the best and most economical way would be to do this. I wouldn’t mind it cracking and causing bubbles as it would give a more interesting effect and I can always recast to solidify the cracks I think. Starting with the 10 by 10 what would be the best way to make a cheap cube mold and the best epoxy or polyester Resin to use that is transparent and hard? Thanks 🙂

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Kristin

I am looking to make 1″x1″ trinkets. I plan on painting them with acrylic paint so I assume I would use white resin? Which resin would be best if I need a hard and sturdy product? And what should I use to protect the paint from chipping from wear? Thanks so much!

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Tina H.

Hi Katherine,

I have a fish skeleton that I would like to cast and frame to put on a wall. The skeleton is about 8 inches long and 4 inches tall and it’s about an inch in thickness. What would be the best product should I use so it doesn’t damage the bones? Or is this even possible? I appreciate your help! Thanks!

Reply
Katherine Swift

Hi Tina, do you have a frame to put the fish in? A casting that large is going to be heavy, so I’m wondering what you have for your frame. I can then make some suggestions.

Reply
Tina H.

Hi Katherine,

I bought a plastic box frame from the craft store that is 8″x10″. The problem with that is that I’m not sure if it’s deep enough. The fish is about 3/4″ thick and the box frame is only about an inch thick so that wouldn’t leave much room. I have another plastic box that I can cut the sides down so that it will be deep enough if I need to and it’s about the same dimensions, if that makes sense. I’m going to make the actual frame out of some barn wood.

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Marcello

Greetings! I am writing from Brasil to kindly ask for help: I am trying to make a marble dust surface finishing to cover the surface of an open air art sculpture made of concrete plates. The idea is to apply a thick layer of marble dust pre-mixed with epoxi resin, spreading it over the concrete plates surface, and once the resin is cured and dry, to grind it and polish. The tricky thing is that when i mix the marble dust with resin, the marble dust turns grey. I have been using titanium dioxide powder (white pigment) to make it white again, but i feel it comes out less natural then if i was able to preserve the marble dust natural color. I am making several tests trying to make the powder impermeable before mixing it with resin. My impression is that the reason the marble dust turns out darker (more grey than white) it´s because it gets ‘wet’-like, soaked in resin, just like beach sand turns darker when wet. Please help me figure this out, how can i preserve the white tone of the original marble dust when mixing it with resin? I am currently using 40 grain of marble dust mixed with a less thick powder like grain. the idea is that it will shine in the sun the most possible, without using the white pigment (titanium dioxide), preserving the white from the marble grain and dust when mixed with resin. Sorry for the long explanation and thank you tons in advance for the attention. Best, Marcello

Reply
Katherine Swift

Hi Marcello, yes, you are correct in that the dust is turning grey because it is getting wet. The best suggestion I can give you is to try a powder additive specifically designed for resin. We have several powder colorants in our shop that may be of help. http://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/Powder Unfortunately, I don’t have a good way to help you keep the marble dust ‘dry’ enough so that it looks good when mixed with resin.

Reply
Marcello

Hi Katherine, appreciate your reply.

I noticed writen where it described the diferences between types of resin, that the “Epoxy resin won’t withstand the heat produced by a polishing wheel and will turn cloudy on the surface”.

What if i use a wet poIisher, would that permit me to reach the high gloss with epoxy resin and marble dust? I was figuring the water would keep the temperature lower and not afect the resin..

Thanks!
best,
M.

Reply
Katherine Swift

I don’t know. I’ve only ever used a wet polisher when I’m making my own cabochons from minerals, stones and such. It would be worth a try, but make sure the resin is very hard and fully cured first. If you give it a try, let me know how it goes.

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Helena

Could anyone please let me know if epoxy resin will turn yellow with time or UV exposure? I’m a beginner to resin and I have no idea about this. Besides, how many layers does a project require? I mean, is a project made of resin enough or does it always need a coating resin? Please help me.
Thank you so much

Reply
Katherine Swift

All resins will eventually yellow with UV light exposure. Some have additives to slow down this process so that it takes years instead of months. As for your project, one layer should do it. You shouldn’t need an extra coating unless you want it to be very shiny.

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Kaylee

Hey there, hopefully you are still answering questions here!
I’d love to know what resin you would recommend for me to make things like this for my ears, http://i.imgur.com/9wxxg49.png
I will be pouring the resin into steel tunnels. I am hoping to be able to put lots of different things in the resin, like dried flowers, crushed opal shards, solvent resistant glitter, metals etc.
Thank you so much for your time 🙂

Reply
Kaylee

Thank you!
Yeah, I will be pouring it into and leaving it inside of the steel eyelets so that it doesn’t touch any skin.

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Sarah

Katherine, you seem so full of knowledge on this subject that I can’t help but ask you about something I’m trying to work on! I’m a beginner with all of this and was wondering what would be the best epoxy to use to make a cake plate? I plan on putting candy throughout it and just want it to come out as clear and sturdy as possible! – Hope to hear back. I’d love your input! Thank you so much!
*I also have two different molds for it. One being silicone and the other is a thinner plastic

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Laura Liberge

Hi Katheirne,
I’m a beginner when it comes with using resin and like any beginner I’ve been encountering so bumps along the way. I’m currently using the easy cast resin with silicon bangle molds. When I take the bangle out after 24hours the top is clear as glass but the sides are a frosted look. I like the look for some jewelry but would love to make an item that is like glass all around. What is your advice for making the whole product crystal clear?

If you need a visual for my current product, my etsy shop can be viewed at http://www.etsy.com/shop/QuirkyLeaves

Thank you 🙂

Reply
Katherine Swift

What template did you use to make your silicone bangle mold? The silicone will pick up the surface of your template. If the template had a frosty look, so will subsequent castings from a mold made from that template.

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Laura liberge

It seems like it’s the mold since the sides are not fully clear. Do you have a recommendation of what brand of mold I should use to get that glass look?

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Stuart

Hi katerine
Im trying to cast some pictures and pennies within a small panel door that has a recess of about 1ft x 2ft and a thickness of about 4-5 mm what would be a good water clear resin to use?
I did try using poly craft slow set polyurethane water clear casting resin but after it all going really well i left it to cure over night to find large raised bubbles had formed, i live in the UK so humidity is high so im guessing that was the cause also i wasnt sure if i need to do a sealant coat first of some sort (its fatory paint finished MDF)
Any advice would be appreciated
Thank you

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Stuart

Hi katherine, thank you
Do you have any advice for suspending photos in 5mm cast
I was thinking of doing a 3mm base layer then 2mm over the photo but im struggling to find definitive answers on how to go about it and i see you are definitely a resin guru, would the base layer need to fully cure so as to sick the photos down before the second layer?

Reply
Kathy

I am making up a Sea Glass and Sea Shell grouping in a OLD Printers Tray. The backing on the tray is fiberboard and I want to fill each section with some beach pebbles. I would like to know what you think would be the best way to adhere them to each section…..glue them in individually …use resin or what would you suggest?

Reply
Katherine Swift

I would probably glue them in. The resin is going to seep through the fiberboard and make it look waterstained in those areas.

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Chtisty

I’m making fairy wings that are thin, I’ve made them with epoxy resin and they are flexible. I want hard wings that don’t bend that are clear but where i can add pigments if i want. what should i use?

Reply
Nicole

Hi Katherine,
Great website! Do you think this would work on brass
porch lights? I don’t have a porch so they really take a
beating.
I heard that the latest thing to protect brass is acrylic
urethane… but I like the idea that resin is so thick. Is this a
crazy idea or do you think it would hold up okay under the weather and very hot Texas summers?

Really appreciate any advice!
Nicole

Reply
Katherine Swift

You would need to use a resin designed for outdoor use. An industrial marine resin would be my choice for a project like this.

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Nicole

Thanks for answering! I need to do something right away and will check into marine resins.

Reply
millan

Hi
I hope someone can help me . I make inlay and I used deyed wood to my project.. now I want use black polyster resin or proxy on my project. I want to know does polyster resin or proxy effect on dyed wood . disapper the stain from woood If I use polyster resin on my project ?
thanks

Reply
Katherine Swift

I wouldn’t expect it to change the dyed effect of the wood, but I am concerned whether or not the wood treatment would affect the resin’s ability to stick to it.

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Beth

Hello, I have an acrylic container in which I am displaying sand samples from all over the world. Each compartment of the container holds about 2 cups volume, and each compartment is about 2/3 full of sand. I would like to add clear resin to the top to ‘seal’ the sand in each compartment to prevent so I won’t have spillage or mixing of the sands. I think I’ll need about 2.5×2.5×1 inch volume of resin to top off each compartment. What would you suggest? I’m a newbie and not really prone to detail work….but if need be, I can employ my meticulous engineering husband to the task.

Reply
Beth

Thank you! I’m glad you can see that several options might work. Sounds like I have a project coming up 🙂

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Matthew

Good morning. Can i use easy cast epoxy resin at the bottom of a coffee cup? Will it be safe to drink from? I want to draw a picture and have it be seen at the bottom of the cup when you need a refill. ;).

Thanks!

Reply
Katherine Swift

The manufacturer has not tested the resin at that temperature. Unfortunately, they cannot recommend it for that purpose.

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Katherine Swift

HI Sara, I would suggest dipping it in resin and allowing it to cure first. That will seal any air in or out. Once it is cured, use it as you would any other inclusion in your resin.

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Samantha Bennison

I want to make resin covered leaf ornaments and bowls but I’m not sure what resin to use. Where I live is dry and cold in the winter but humid in the summer and I currently don’t have a work space (Except my balcony) as I’m in an apartment. Any recommendations?

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Samantha

Indoor. For like jewelry bowls or fruit bowls or something (not for eating from) but more decorative.

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Renee Buchko

Help! I was trying to buff a gloss onto a 1 1/2″ circle of resin. I was just given a dremel mototool. When I put the cloth circle to the resin it immediately scraped a large scuff onto the top of the piece! Can it be buffed out with sandpaper? Or would coating it with more resin help? I’m a newbie and I’m lost!

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Katherine Swift

Hi Renee, sorry to hear you are having problems. How big is the scuff? The reason I ask is that recoating with another layer of resin would be easiest, but if the scuff is coarse, the resin won’t completely mask the scratch. Instead of looking smooth and glossy, it will look a little frosted underneath. Without seeing your scratch, I would try to sand it down, finishing with (at least) a 1000 grit paper or higher. Then, you can recover with resin.

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Ann

Hi! I am making jewelry and it seems like the polyester resin is reacting with the metal jewelry bezel and turning some of the edges green. Is there any way to prevent this? I am also finding that it doesn’t fully set and the smell is horrible. Any other suggestions for a resin that sets clear and quickly that won’t react with metal?

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Alex

I want to fill a hollow 2 in. diameter glass sphere. The glass sphere does have an opening to allow for me to pour fluids into it. From what I’ve read on this page, it seems like the polyester would be the best. I’m worried that when it cures, the polyester will pull away from the glass sphere. I need something that will fill the space with a clear finish and not contract as it cures. Thoughts? Thank you!

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Katherine Swift

Hi Alex, based upon your comment, I think an epoxy would probably be better. Why were you considering a polyester resin?

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Sully

Miss katherine, how nice of you to respond to all these questions for so many years. Its obvious your very appreciated. My question has to do with large scale epoxy table casting molds, if not already asked prior. I noticed an italian company called Nucleo Studios that cast these solid beautiful epoxy tables with wood boards dipped into set up as legs. They call it wood fossil. Im going to attempt this art but id like to avoid costly mistakes. Now I noticed you mentioned epoxy cures soft in a large thick scale. Should i use polyester resin? An would it be wise to cast these 3in thick resin slabs in acrylic made molds with a release? What are good large scale mold making materials that epoxy nor poly will stick too after cure?

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Katherine Swift

If I were going to attempt this project, yes, I would use a polyester resin. If you were going to try casting them in an acrylic sided mold, you would definitely need to use mold release. Resin will stick to acrylic. Once cured, the epoxy and polyester resin shouldn’t stick to silicone.

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Sully

Thank you for the reassurance and not saying its impossible. Im going for it. I do know big companies have access to autoclavs an all types of advance equipment to cast large composites. I wanna find the limit of what one person can do from home without the fancy machines and without creating a chemical melt down disaster in ones garge. Ill check up.

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s.s.d.

can i post my question regarding application of epoxy resin-hardener (2:1 ratio ) here.i very desperately need help / solution for problem -bubbles coming to surface 20/25 min after applying epoxy coat /may be surface tension .i don’t know what exactly my problem is. i am using localy manufacture and sold epoxy resin hardner. can i pasted some photos which will describe my problem in better way because i ma sort of newbe in using resin-hardener. can u tell me if the way i am using epoxy hardener-resin in correct way. i am making paintings/frame on 8 mm mdf board ,the size is 12×16 inc.. i applied wall primer first and after it dried i painted designs with instant coffee powder +water. after it dried i applied epoxy. i mixed resin and hardener in 2:1 ration for 10 min and after that i kept i aside for another 10 min. after that (after 15/20 min app.)i applied epoxy on my painting. for 20/ 25 min app. there was no problem. the epoxy cured and surface is smmoth the gloss is perfect but the frame /painting held infront of i could see pits under smooth surface making my frame look horrible.

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Katherine Swift

It may be that the resin is reacting with something on the surface of your painting. I would suggest sealing the entire piece with a layer of an acrylic based spray first.

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s.s.d.

when should i use spray? after painting designs (with coffee + water) of after? i don’t know anything about it.

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s.s.d.

will butane torch/propane torch eliminate bubbles( of all size) in epoxy (resin+hardener )coat on 8mm mdf board?which is safer to use for first time user like me ?

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Katherine Swift

Yes, but I prefer to use a heat gun so that I don’t accidentally set something on fire.

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Kristi

Hi Miss Katherine! I am so excited about finding this forum. I have been working on a round table for my mom for longer that I care to admit. I have sanded it, gel stained it, sanded it again bc gel stain streaks, polyurethane unsuccessfully, stripped all of that off…got back to square one. (i guess) then went through the whole 2 parts of epoxy resin on top of table 3 , yes 3 separate times. Looked beautiful except of the dust particles and a couple of mosquitoes that dipped into also. (yay!) So I began wet sanding it after it cured for a couple of weeks. Then I applied appropriately an ultimate compound and ultimate polish both by meguiar’s with an orbital sander. Didn’t give me shine like I wanted plus had more swirl marks which ironically is suppose to help with those. Today I have wet sanded with a little soapy water with 800 grit, cleaned, 1200 grit, cleaned, and 1500 grit. The epoxy is very smooth an free from any blemishes at this time. I’m at wits end and am thinking about putting minwax paste finishing wax over it. Will that work to give me a polished not cloudy overall look? Or do you recommend anything different to go over the epoxy. Or should I just put this to the curb and buy my mom a new table?? Thanks for any info from anyone! I really appreciate reading all of the FAQs!

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Katherine Swift

Assuming you have a nice, smooth finish from the 1500 grit sandpaper, one more layer of resin should give it a glossy finish. To keep dust particles, etc. out of it while it is curing, you need to find a way to cover it while the resin is still wet. How big is the table?

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Katherine Swift

What’s the context of your question? I’m not sure what kind of answer you are looking for.

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s.s.d.

for frames /paintings..
i am using 8 mm mdf board. i earlier tried to coat it epoxy resin+hardener. but even after 2nd coat there were bubbles+pits on frames i have made. the resin i am using is thick (like honey). i kept the resin and hardener bottles in hot water before mixing . but by the time i started to apply 1st coat,the mix had started getting thick once again. i am thinking of using some other brand of epoxy. i came across other set of epoxy resin+hardener at shop. the epoxy in this set was thin almost like water . so i wanted to know whether i should try thin epoxy resin+hardener.

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Katherine Swift

For what you are doing, you will need a ‘thicker’ resin because you need the extra surface tension to let the resin dome on top of your painting. It sounds like you may need a resin with a longer pot time, which will give you more time after mixing to get it onto your painting.

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Cerise

Thank you!
I’ve been looking for a durable coating (needs to be a bit flexible too) for shrink plastic, both drawn and printed… jewelry. Spray coatings sometimes spit a little thicker, making sharpie pen run ( can'[t depend on the “light” coating.. and I don’t have an “outdoors” for spraying most days, means I can’t finish at night), brush on coating seem to cause even more running of inks or pens. I’ve been using nail gel for some, but, not as crisp looking of a coating and more work and, if the item gets wet, moisture seeps between the gel coating and the plastic, bend it too much and it separates (does not really seal to the plastic)… it seems like mixing small amounts of resin might be annoying, but… would it solve some of the other problems?

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Cerise

I can’t reheat it… I shape t hem while warm and the layer there looks very thick, I need a thin coat. Maybe I’m stuck with spray on…

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s.s.d.

i am coating my 8mm mdf board frame/paintings with epoxy coat. the resin i am using is thick like honey. i mixed resin and hardener for 5 min slowly. kept it aside for 5 min. but the mix was cold even after 10 min.is it due to weather (winter season temp 12-18 degree c) or something else?

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Katherine Swift

Yes. I would suggest warming the bottles in a warm water bath for 5 minutes or so before using in cold temperatures. You can also try using a space heater for your area.

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Katherine Swift

It could be where the resin started to cure and a bubble finally popped. The resin may not have been liquid enough to fill in the void.

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s.s.d.

will thin resin help me ?
the surface is smooth,prefect gloss, but if frame held in front of light anyone can see pits.

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Katherine Swift

Thin resin isn’t going to stay on the surface very well. I would suggest mixing smaller batches of resin. It may be that you are trying to use too large a quantity for the amount of pot time the resin has.

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Katherine Swift

The colors you describe aren’t necessarily unusual. When you mix them together, they should go clear. If the resin is dark yellow, it may be old. I’ve never heard of ‘glass epoxy resin’ however.

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Kim

Hi!

I have been trying my hand in resin jewelry, as it is easier to do at home away from the studio where I do metal work. I am working on making some resin ring designs using molds, but would like to know what the best kind of resin is to use for SOLID bracelets, rings, etc. I don’t think the alumilite I have been using for pendants will cut it, as it melts with body heat.

Thanks!

Kim

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Kim

Hi Katherine,

I have been using the Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast thus far. I have found that if I wear the rings I created, they end up warping from my body heat!

Kim

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jerwin

can i use epoxy resin to coat real food for display purpose?
such as if i pour over a real fruits ?

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maithree*

I want to make roofing sheet used natural fiber. so i thought the best resin type is polyester resin. Is that correct? Can you help me please

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Katherine Swift

I don’t have experience using resin for that industrial a purpose. I’m afraid I can’t offer you any advice.

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Chris Owen

Hi Katherine,
I am wanting to make mosaic stained glass pictures with tumbled glass. I am using picture frames with the glass that came with the frame and have been gluing the pieces to the glass using E6000 glue. Then I want to use a resin to fill the gaps between the glass pieces. However I do not know which type or make of Resin to use. Please, please can you help me with this as I want to get going as soon as possible. Many thanks. If you could email me that would be great. I very much look forward to hearing from you.

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Katherine Swift

Were you wanting the resin to act like a grout or completely cover the glass pieces?

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Chris

For the grouting I would put the mixed resin in a squeezy bottle with a narrow tip then apply the resin around the pieces of glass. There will also be areas in the same piece which will be painted onthe glass which will need coating too.

Swath

Iam fresh for resin. While mixing resin and hardner the mixture is going in yellow colour. And after dry also it is not good and shining to see. How can I overcome this. Please advice me

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Paul Kelly

Hi all, looks like this might be the place to answer my questions three (after looking all over online) 🙂

I’m building a guitar and want to make the inlay dots and headstock logo look like shiny rubies. After reading this FAQ I reckon polyester resin is the one for me as it will dry hard, now…
1) If I pour the resin into the holes for the dots etc will it adhere to the wood, do I have to worry about it seeping into the wood? Or is there a chance the dots could fall out?
2) Will I be able to sand it down (even with very fine sandpaper) after it sets to make sure it is exactly level with the fretboard?
3) After sanding it level I then apply a thin coat of nitrocellulose lacquer over the whole guitar in order to seal the paint and protect the wood, is this going to affect the resin at all (or is the resin going to affect the lacquer?

Any advice or help with these questions would be gratefully received, thank you

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Katherine Swift

Yes, the resin will adhere to the wood, but I don’t know whether or not the surrounding wood will show ‘water’ stains. The dots shouldn’t fall out, but I would certainly try a test piece first. Yes, the resin can be sanded after curing. I don’t have any experience using nitrocellulose lacquer over cured resin. I would suggest checking with the manufacturers of the specific resins you want to use for their advice.

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Mia

Dear Katherine,
we would like to use resin to make a new counter for a bar (shaped in an L) from one piece to put on their existing pedestal and the masters don’t know how to do it; the mold and procedure so the question is –> What should the mold be from to make the counter on the floor lets say, and be able to take it out of the mold in one piece when it dries and put it on the pedestal??
Or if its possible to make it on top of the existing pedestal if we protect the under layers, how to achieve that ?
Also important is that we would like to make the counter from black resin, minimum/medium thickness possible to be nice straight and with no bumps…..
Could epoxy floor or wall resin be used for that case too?
Is it possible & how ;)?
Thankyou in advance you would save us

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Katherine Swift

The easiest way to do this, as I see it, is to have a wooden bar top that you will coat with resin. I would suggest the Alumilite Amazing clear cast resin, tinted with the Alumilite black colorant, to get you the black you are wanting. Both can be found here: http://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-clear-cast-epoxy-resin-16-ounces http://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/products/alumilite-liquid-pigment-transparent-dye

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Mia

Thank you very much for answering so fast… but our idea was to pour it all out of resin a cm,2 or more if suggested for floors because wood doesnt match nicely with the rest of it and needed advice from what material to make a mold for something so big.. The counter is shaped in an L and is 300×150 cm, and Ive got an advise so far that the mold/frame can be made of shiny wood if we put a separator material – how its called (dont know the right name but they should know in store) but as we have a round angle in the L it cannot be wood but plexiglass – its our other option because it can bend nicely… Do u think thats the best/ or ok solution if we want to have it in one big piece of epoxy ?
Thanks again!

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Katherine Swift

You can try a wooden or plexiglass box. The trick will be to have it coated with something that will release your resin casting. Unfortunately, it’s not something I have any experience with, but if I were to try, this would be my mold release of choice: http://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/petrolease-non-silicone-food-grade-mold-release You will also need to find a way to take the mold box apart after casting the resin as you won’t be able to flex it and pop the resin out.

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Mia

Also, forgot this, is resin a durable enough material for frequent usage in a bar, so drinks and food all day n nite ? Does it show signs of wear after a while ?
Thankyou

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Katherine Swift

In my opinion, this resin is durable enough for a coating for a bar top with regular use. You may need to recoat it once a year or so to keep it looking new.

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Amy

The white Amazing(brand) Resin that sets in 10 minutes..and cures white..
Do you use a catalyst with it?
Also, can you add color to the mix?

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Julie Jones

Hi guys wonder can anyone help? I have a ring blank I want to fill with resin, it has a hole in it it was a ring blank for a cabochon. Is there anything I could cut out and set over the hole that is see though and that will stay out once the resin sets! Thanks

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Katherine Swift

So you want something that will fill the hole, but come out once the resin has cured?

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Jen

What kind of plastic is Castin Craft Epoxy Resin? I’m looking to get scratches out of my project and I don’t know what type of plastic it is.

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Katherine Swift

I’m not sure I understand your question. Do you have a link to an example of what you are trying to create?

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Katherine Swift

I’m not familiar with that product. Can you include a link for me to review?

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AJackson

Hi Katherine –

I’m wondering if you have suggestions for glues that would affix hardened polyester resin casts to acrylic plastic bases — how best to glue polyester resin to other surfaces, really. I have deep cast a few items in polyester resin, and now I want to affix the cast to the base of a plastic display case. I am trying E6000, but it doesn’t really seem to want to set or glue hard. Is there another good glue option? One that might dry clear? Many many thanks in advance!

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Katherine Swift

I would try mixing up an epoxy resin to act as your glue. If your glue area is hidden, a five minute epoxy is fine. If your glue area is more visible, I would suggest a jewelry quality resin since it will yellow more slowly than the industrial kinds.

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Nicole

I am making a table top 2’x8′. I have about a 1/2″ lip around the sides and I have filled it with sand, shells, tiles for a checkerboard and family photos that have been glued down. This table is going to be used outside and uncovered. What would be the best type of resin to use? I think if I use the epoxy it will be about 5 gallons…not sure how much the Polyester resin would require me to need if that is better suggested. Please help before I purchase as I know its going to be pricey and want to do it right the first time.

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Mohamed

OK ,, what about ice resin ,are try it ? ,and what about the weight of it’s product

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Natalie

I am coating RTIC cups and the envirotex leave little baby bubbles. Any suggestions on how to get rid of the bubbles or what to use instead.

Thanks!

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daekyu

Sir. I saw your article.
I was so surprised your skill and ability.
And i respecting you.
I Trying to real carbon fiber epoxy resin task.
(car indoor material.. for example dashboard.. )
How product(epoxy resin) is recommended for this task?
Thanks your help.
Regards.

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Katherine Swift

I’m afraid I don’t have any experience with that type of use for resin and cannot make a recommendation.

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Gen

Hi Katherine,

What a wonderful site! I’m hoping to make some lamp bases and was wondering if The Polyester Resin would be the best way to go? I am hoping to create a fractured effect and wasn’t sure what would be the best way to achieve these results. Could you please advise a way that would achieve a consistent fracture throughout the lamp base.

Kindest Regards,

Gen

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Christi W.

Hi Katherine,
I read through as many of the comments as possible hoping to find a similar project but gave up after the first 100. I have a square wooden shelf “box” with no back or front. My intention is to secure the box on to a flat surface, pour a shallow pool of resin (to make a clear front). Once that is dry I’m going to lay sea glass on the resin front and then pour resin over all the glass. Once that is complete I’m going to attach a light source behind the glass and hang it on the wall.

#1) Recommendations for resin?
#2) What surface/ preparation should I use to secure the box to the flat surface so that I can peel it away once it’s dried.

I hope this all made sense…

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twtheisen

A couple questions:

1) I purchased some 20MM Round Bezel Cufflinks and Tie Clips Blanks. If I want to use custom images to make my own Cufflinks sets, would you recommend: A) Glass Cabochons, B) Epoxy Ice Resin or C) Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy Resin?

I’d like to use Glass Cabochons as I have heard that they are less likely to scratch/scuff, but I’ve read it is hard to find round bezel blanks and glass cabochons that fit well together consistently (even when listed as the same size). I am a perfectionist, so this sounds less than ideal.

2) I have read that sealing the images helps prevent potential issues. If I wanted to seal coat the images prior to adhering them to the metal blanks, would you recommend: A) Mod Podge, B) Diamond Glaze or C) Glossy Accents?
> Once dry, will all of these product options allow me to re-apply and secure the image to the metal blanks without incident?
> Once dry, will any of these product options react negatively when the metal blanks are filled with epoxy resin?

Thanks in advance for your help answering these questions and saving me some time, hassle and money!

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Katherine Swift

For high contact pieces such as cuff links, glass cabochons may work better since they are less likely to scratch or show damage. If you wanted to work with a resin, the Ice resin will cure harder than the Easy Cast resin.

I use Mod Podge to seal my images, but any clear drying glue should work. Seal the image, then seal it again to the bottom of your bezel. Make sure everything is thoroughly dry (12 hours or more) before pouring the resin.

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twtheisen

Katherine,

If the round bezel is too high and leaves a rim around the edge with glass cabochons, would it make sense to fill the blank halfway with resin, then secure the glass cabochons with it shortly thereafter?

I’d like to think this would seal the Cufflinks and help disguise any unevenness that might exist around the edge.

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Katherine Swift

Sounds like a lot of extra work. Instead, I would use a bezel pusher (like you are setting gemstones) to push the bezel around the glass cabochon.

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Alexander

Hi, I was wondering if there is any difference between the epoxy resin that you mentioned, and the epoxy adhesive usually sold at hardware stores, such as the Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy glue. Can they be substituted for one another?

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Katherine Swift

It depends on what you want to accomplish. If crystal clear results are important, then you want to go with one of the resins mentioned. Hardware store epoxies tend to cure amber and will amber faster over time.

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Alexander

I see, I was actually intending to add a black opaque pigment to the epoxy. Would the result still be similar with hardware store epoxies as compared to the aforementioned resins?

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Alexander

It’s hard to describe, but the mold vaguely resembles an inverted cone around 2 inches deep.

Katherine Swift

I would expect that epoxy should work. Try a small amount as a test piece first.

Alexander

Another question, is there a standard proportion of pigment to be added to the resin? And does the amount of hardener need to be adjusted accordingly or does it remain the same?

Katherine Swift

Try to add as little as colorant as possible to achieve the desired effect. Every colorant is different in terms of the mixing directions. For example, when using the Resin Obsession pigments, you need to use extra hardener. For some other brands, that isn’t necessary. I would suggest investigating the specific brand and following their specific directions.

Christy

Hey, Katherine. I was wondering if your resin bonds well with wood? I’m working on pendants that are half wood half resin and I have everything except the resin. I know West Systems bonds well to it, but I’m not exactly comfortable spending that much money on it due to its mixing procedure. Plus spending that much, I’d want to be able to use it with all resin pieces. And yours seems perfect for everything else I do. Thanks!

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Katherine Swift

I don’t have any personal experience with this, but I would expect it to do fine. There is minimal shrinkage, which is essential for bonding resin and wood.

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Shay

Long article.
Can you use resin hardener in the epoxy resin?
When do you use a 2:1 ratio? Which one is the 2 ratio?

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Katherine Swift

Hardener must be used with resin in order for it to cure. Follow the directions of the specific resin kit you want to use. It will tell you how much resin and how much hardener to use.

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Ashley

I have a donut… a very special donut. I’m hoping to preserve it for my husband as a Christmas present. Paper weight or just a silly item for a shelf. I’ve read several food related posts and know I need to get the donut as dry as possible before starting but I was wondering if you know first how I should seal it and then which resin to use? Hoping you can help.

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Katherine Swift

I don’t think this will work well at all. It will be almost impossible for you to get it dry enough to cast in resin. The other problem is that the donut has a lot of trapped air that will come out later during the casting. My best suggestion would be to have someone recreate a donut for you out of polymer clay, then cast that donut into resin.

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Nicky

I’d like to cast decorative frames for my small paintings (size of paintings are 3×4 inches to 6×8 inches) based off a mold made from a clay sculpt. I don’t care about it being clear as the designs I’m currently considering would be completely painted or gilded anyway. I have never cast resin before. It sounds like I should use an epoxy, but wondered if anyone has any advice as I consider my options (specific epoxy resins, or if I should choose something else instead)?

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Chantell

Hi! Im absolutely amazed that after so many years you continue to respond to inquires! Thats awesome. Quick question. Im trying to make some jewelry and dont want my items to tarnish. I made a choker and the clamps i used started to tarnish after a couple wears. I tried to scroll through the comments to see if my question was answered by there are so many! Lol. Any recommendations?

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Katherine Swift

Are you referring to the silver tarnishing? I have used Renaissance Wax on pieces and been very happy with the results. Apply a light amount, buff dry with a soft cloth. It will keep the tarnish away. If the wearer washes the piece with soap and water or ends up using a polishing cloth on it, you will need to reapply the wax. You can also use the wax over cured resin as well. I started using it years ago when I didn’t want customers to ruin the resin finish trying to remove tarnish from the silver. Happy to help. 🙂

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Michelle

Hi Katherine,
I was just wondering if you have any suggestions for an epoxy resin that dries fairly firm and has very little fumes. I made some jewelry with Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy and it worked very well and there weren’t any noticeable fumes, but it bends very easily and I am worried about selling my jewelry. Also, can you drill wholes in resin? Thank you!

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jordan

hello.i was wondering how can i cast a piece of meat..fresh meat? is there any way of making a clear coating and drying some how ar are there any resins that can work with a dump surface like a steak let say… thanks !

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Loyal User

I have an art project where I am trying to preserve meats by painting layers of resin on all surfaces exposed to air. Ideally I would like it to be see through and to preserve the visual features of the meat as it decays.

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Debbie

I am interested in making pen blanks using resin and wood. My plan was to get a silicone mold for the pen blanks, put some interesting wood pieces in the mold and then fill the gaps and holes with the resin to make a solid piece. Then turn the piece on the lathe to create pens.
I have been reading about which resin to use and being a newbie who lives in Florida I think epoxy would be the one most likely to succeed as I don’t have a place with adequate ventilation and low humidity. My question is, will epoxy work? And if so, how should I finish the final turned piece so that it looks reasonably clear and shiny?
I have used ICE resin for some experiments but now it’s time to buy more resin and I’m not sure what to get. Thanks

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Katherine Swift

No, you will need to use a polyurethane resin. Epoxies do not do well with wood turning projects.

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Debbie

Thanks for such a quick response. Can you elaborate a little on why epoxy is not a good choice for turning? Is it too brittle? Is it too hard to polish? Since I’m new to resin work I’m trying to learn the pros and cons to the different types of products. Unfortunately since I live in Florida and don’t have a room I can seal off I probably can’t use polyurethane except for a couple months in winter 🙁 Are there any other alternatives?

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Katherine Swift

Epoxy does not do well with the heat and friction from saws and lathes. It will get crumbly and or melt from the heat. Being in Florida, I also understand your concerns about successfully using a polyurethane. You can try a polyester resin (it is less moisture sensitive) but can be a bit fussier to work with. This blog article should answer a few more questions for you: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/polyester-casting-resin

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Edwin Putra

Hello, I want to make a figure model but finding epoxy resin is hard here, can I use epoxy paint (the product info said that it is basically made from epoxy resin and hardener) to make a model?

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isabel

i want to use a vinyl sticker (picture) and cast/stick it on a cement slap that i want to use outside, which resin is the best to use.

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Katherine Swift

I’m afraid resin isn’t the best choice here. It will yellow with the UV light exposure.

Reply

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