What kind of resin should I use? – Choosing a resin

what kind of resin should i use

If you are asking yourself ‘What kind of resin should I use?’, you have come to the right place.

This is one of the most common questions I get asked about art, jewelry and crafts.  There is no ‘one size fits all’ resin, and there are MANY things to consider.  I will walk you through how I look at the process, whether I am creating for myself or helping another artist choose a resin.

Let’s imagine you have walked into your favorite butcher shop.  You tell the meat cutter at the counter that you want a steak and ask what kind you should buy.  One of the responses you’re likely to get is a question asking “What do you want to make?”.  Choosing a resin is really no different than this situation.  To be more specific, I would frame my response into “What are you hoping the end result to be?”

If you’re a beginner, I cannot stress here enough that you need to start with an epoxy resin.  Why?  Relatively speaking, epoxy is the ‘easiest’ to work with.  It generally doesn’t require wearing a respirator mask and tends to be the most forgiving of environmental factors, such as humidity.  Epoxy also has the longest shelf life.  I also like that it generally has the longest pot time (approximately 20 to 40 minutes to work with it), so it’s great for beginners that are still fumbling and getting used to working with resin.

So you may be asking yourself, “What kind of epoxy resin should I use?”

Once again, it depends on what you want your final casting to look like.  Here are a few other things to consider when choosing a specific epoxy.

Clarity:

If you want your final project to be clear, you want to make sure to start with a clear resin.  Also, realize that clear doesn’t necessarily mean ‘color free’.  Some clear resins will cure with a yellow tint, depending on the brand.  If you’re unsure about how clear the resin is when cast, check with the retailer or manufacturer before making a purchase.  Know that the clearer and more color-free the resin, the more it will cost.

Fill a space or coat a surface?

Are you trying to cast into something, or are you wanting to put it on as a coating?  If you want to place the resin on something without sides, you want to be sure you are using a doming resin.  This kind is a bit thicker and has the extra surface tension to make sure it doesn’t run over the sides.  Know too though, that this resin being a bit thicker, is also more difficult to remove bubbles from.  If you want to fill a mold or space with sides, you want to use a casting resin.

Of course, each has its own specific advantages and disadvantages, so if you’re a beginner, read this article about the differences between these two types.

So if epoxy is so great, why would I use anything else?

Unfortunately, epoxy resin can’t do everything.  Relatively speaking, it can cure soft.  You may have noticed that when you cast epoxy, you can sometimes dent your fingernail in the finished casting if you try hard enough.  Polyester and polyurethane resins both cure very hard.  When fully cured, they can have the hardness and clearness of glass.  In fact, both can be polished to a high gloss with a polishing wheel and the appropriate compound.  Many epoxies cannot withstand the heat produced by a polishing wheel and will turn cloudy on the surface.

Like this post? You may be interested in  What is the best resin mixing temperature? - What temperature should I mix resin?

I know what you’re thinking, “Oh my gosh, this is exactly what I need!  I hate having to do all that extra stuff to epoxy to get it glossy!”  Sit down, I have a few downsides to share with you.  First polyester and some polyurethanes may require that you wear a respirator mask with them.  In my opinion, this formula will literally take your breath away the smell is so bad.  I would NEVER cast this in my house or a space that I needed to occupy in the next 12 hours.  When I do resin polyester in my studio, I save it for the last thing in the day.  I cast, then leave for the day or I will even cast it outside, weather permitting.

Polyesters do have an advantage over epoxy in that is it generally cheaper and is great for casting deep molds.  However, polyester resin has a short pot time (generally 8 to 10 minutes) and the surface exposed to air during the curing will remain tacky.  You can either sand this side down or coat with resin gloss sealer spray once cured.  If you think you might want to cast polyester resin, here are five things you should know about using polyester resin.

Polyurethanes, on the other hand, generally have fewer curing issues and there is a lot of options when choosing one, but you should know that they are VERY moisture sensitive.  If you’re going to venture into casting polyurethanes, you need to make sure to use colorants specifically designed for them.

Want more help on what kind of resin should I use?

Read our RESIN BUYING GUIDE for a complete breakdown explaining resin choices to make sure you get the right one for your project.

Are you a beginner overwhelmed by all the information out there?  It’s enough to make you pull your hair out!  That’s why I wrote the book, Resin Fundamentals.  I designed it for beginners to help get you from confused to confident with resin in only an afternoon!

Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2021 Resin Obsession, LLC

595 thoughts on “What kind of resin should I use? – Choosing a resin

    1. In case anyone else is a painter and is interested in what I use to coat paintings – I use Environtex lite and it comes out beautiful every time. I have coated small paintings as well as large 3’x4′ ones. Not a great idea to do on a wrapped canvas as pooling occurs.

      1. What is the difference between Environtex lite and Clear Polyester Casting Resin by Castin’ Craft? I am a painter and I am looking into what’s best to coat my canvas paintings. Something that will give it a “glass topping” look. Thanks!

        1. The Envirotex Lite is an epoxy whereas the Clear polyester casting resin is a polyester. You can use the Envirotex Lite, although it cures with a slight amber tint. It isn’t my first choice for artwork coating. You definitely won’t want to use the polyester resin as the surface that is exposed to air can remain tacky after curing. I would suggest the TotalCast resin. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin?page=2 We only have the small size of it currently, but expect more of the larger sizes next week.

          1. Hi Katherine!

            I’m looking for something to coat on already finished jewellery pieces, sterling silver and titanium steel rings with cubic zirconia stones to prevent the stones from falling out.

            I would like this coating to dry crystal clear so as not to affect the shine of the metak or stones.

            Do you know o any coating that would do this?

            Thanks!

          2. You want the resin to go over top of the stones? I ask because that will make them less ‘sparkly’ because the light will refract differently doing through a coat of resin first.

          3. Loved the details u gave so minutely about resin n its types Katherine. Thanx for sharing all this info. Do u know the answers to these Qs?

            1- Hw to get UV protection in resin? Any method?
            2- Details about silicone resin and acrylic resin? Pot time, cure time, sensitivity, temperature, etc?
            3- Hw to clean the pot n brush used to mix n apply resin? Can the same pot n brush be used again for resin mixing n application?
            4- If ease release spray is not available then what can be used?
            5- If we apply resin on half side of surface n then after drying apply on the other half side, would there be a seperating line formed between both sides after drying or curing of both sides?
            6- For the 2nd coat, only waiting for drying is enough or should wait for 7 days until entire curing of 1st coat is done?

          4. I’m happy to help! Here are answers with numbers that correspond to your questions:
            1. To get UV protection in resin, you need to buy it that way. That notation should be included in the product listing. If you don’t see it, ask the manufacturer.
            2. Every resin is different in terms of pot time, cure time, etc. You will need to get the specifics from the manufacturer of the resin you want to use.
            3. We have a video on our youtube channel showing how to clean resin:

            https://youtu.be/17Ixaa0Lw6o

            4. Vaseline can work as a release, but it may leave marks on your casting.
            5. Yes.
            6. Waiting until the second coat is dry, not fully cured, is sufficient for applying a second coat.

          5. The big differences between epoxy and polyester rein is the expansion and contraction under temperatures changes. Polyester is more brittle and is more sensitive to temperatures change, meaning will crack easiy. Epoxy has more options and types.

          6. Hi Tracy, unfortunately all resins are going to yellow with UV light exposure. While that video shows experimental conditions, it cannot account for every experience resin may face when used in a practical setting. While I think the results can be used as a guide, users need to understand and test the resin they are using to see if it’s going to work for their specific needs.

        2. bubbles…some of the clear brands are bad for bubbling…so you have to get out the alcohol burner..pressure pot or whatever way to fight the bubble war. Then again some products don’t bubble as bad.

          1. I’m a beginner at this. I’m filling small 6×6 acrylic boxes. Only needs to be 1/2 inch thick. So from the great info above I need to use polyester resin. Clarity is important and no bubbles. A logo is on the bottom of the box that will be covered with 1/2 resin

      2. I just wanted to point out that you should still be using a respirator/mask of some sort at least (I’m not an expert so maybe stick with a respirator) when working with epoxy resin. It can still irritate your lungs, especially if you react to it! Check out Epoxy is Not My Friend on Facebook.

    2. Hi, I wanted to make dried flower jewelry resin. One that is super clear, minimal bubbles, and one that doesn’t take out the color out of the flowers. Do you know which would be best? Thanks!

      1. Hi Katherine! You seem to be somewhat of an expert in all things resin. I have only ever used epoxy resin, but I am now making jewelry that are around 1/8 inch thick at most. My epoxy resin seems to only cure soft at that thickness. What resin type would you suggest I use to make something near that thick but be around as hard as glass? Please help.

        1. Hi Derik, are you making jewelry in molds or bezels? That will best help me with a resin recommendation.

          1. I appreciate the specific link you sent, but I was asking the type that would work best for this. Epoxy seems to be too soft for thin projects like this.

          2. Hello Katherine! Thank you for all the info on the topic. I want to make personalized phone cases, the idea is to paint a clear plastic phone case with acrylic paint and then coat it with resin. What resin do you think would suit this work the best? I’m sorry if my english is not the best, i’m not a native speaker

    3. I want to put an old dried out rose on display in a sort of beauty and the beast type thing but in a tall square exposy/resin cast and very clear as a gift, I keep reading different articles because this is my first project ever using any resin and I would love some tips and help if you have any? I was wondering what type you would recommend to use?

    4. Hi i have a question. I use Amazing clear cast. I make trays and coaster and cups. I have a problem where on my trays some of the resin gets on the back after I have painted it…how do I prevent this and how do I get it off. Also I normally have so much left over I do i measure it correctly

    5. I need help! I’m still confused.
      I am a first time resin user, I want to do an art project with resin but I still do not know which one to use. What I had in mind, is that I want to make a cube. I’m thinking of starting small like a cube with all sides being 7.5cm long. I want the resin to be crystal clear. Which kind of resin would be best for me?

  1. Can you use different resins in multiple coats. ie. start with Poly resin let cure and than coat over the top with epoxy resin?

    I am trying to get a hard plastic like rigid shiny finish on real dried orchids?

  2. @Rich, I have layered with different brands of epoxy, but have never put epoxy over polyester for example. If you want to try, I would suggest experimenting with a couple of practice pieces first.

        1. Does anyone kow of any reactions between uv resin and metal (copper in particular) and where to find the info. As when using them together recently the resin hasn’t been curing like normal and ends up rather sticky and still liquid inside???

  3. Im a beginner to resin and want to embed bottle caps and make some coasters. I had the Easy Cast-which was prob at least a year old, and worked well. Low bubbles and nice and clear. I ran out, so I bought the Envirotex Lite-pour on. This is not as clear and full of bubbles. Is this the wrong type of resin for my project? What brand would you recommend or how can I clear up all the littles bubbles the muddled my coasters? Thanks!!

    1. The best remedy for those pesky bubbles in the use of a blow torch. Works in instantly. removes them like magic. Just swipe over quickly. I’m told using a straw works good too.

    2. I am using silicone molds and want to make make up trays, food trays, jewelry boxes and other gifts that use molds some are thick and some are not. I want it to be clear and hard like glass not rubbery what should I use?

  4. The Envirotex is really meant to be more of a coating. It was probably too thick for the mold. Unfortunately, there is no way to clear up the bubbles in a casted product once it’s cured. The good news though is that East Cast works very well for coasters.

  5. Hi Katherine,

    Sorry I am posting this here, but I can’t get my computer to work on the forums….(something I’m doing wrong, I am sure).
    I am trying to figure out something to coat some flat copper or brass blank sheets with. I’m going to use these as bases to pendents which I’m gluing random items onto. Since the flat metal sheet bases I’m using are unfinished I figured it would be nice to coat all of, or at least the back of it with an epoxy resin so that the person wearing it wouldn’t get an allergic reaction or have the piece tarnish due to sweat if the back was touching their skin.
    Do you think epoxy resin would work for this?
    Thank you so so much for your help!
    -Kristina

  6. Kristina,

    I think epoxy resin would work very well for this. A few other things come to mind as well for possible use: wax (I like Renaissance wax), acrylic spray, maybe even mod podge??

  7. Thank you so much for the response Katherine.
    For Renaissance wax, if I were to use it on raw brass or copper – do you know how long it “stays” for? I’m assuming it wears off over time, is that an accurate assumption on my part?

    Thanks again. You are the most helpful person I’ve found on the internet. And it’s a big world out here!

    I’ll for sure be using this store in my near future.

  8. Kristina,

    I have used the Renaissance wax in the past to seal my sterling silver and resin pendants and have been quite pleased with the results. I always suggested to my customers that they clean with a soft cloth and a mild soapy water if necessary. I would suspect putting a good grease cutting soap on the pendant would take the wax off. I suppose with regular wear it would eventually need recoating, but I can’t tell you exactly when that might be. Glad I could be of help. 🙂

  9. Hello Katherine,
    Based on the comment above by Kelly, I am thinking that the Easy Cast is the best for my project because I am trying to cover a table top with bottle caps, but I just wanted to double-check it will hold up as well as a polyester one, that sounds like it is harder?? Many thanks!!

  10. Chelsea,

    It depends. If you’re looking at a layer of 1/8″ or less, I would go with the Envirotex. It’s meant for table top coatings, so it might be fine for your project. It will show some wear sooner than an table top poured with polyester, but it’s certainly easier to work with.

      1. What resin to use??? I want to do a beach scene on canvas, using acrylic paint, glass, sand, small shells, etc. I’ve NEVER used resin, because not sure how to do this. Thanks for any answers you can give me.

    1. Hi Katheryn
      I am a beginner too, can you advise what resin for a wooden bar top? I am painting the wooden top black and coating it in gold leaf sheets And I wanted to place resin over it. It’s quite a large room that can be ventilated. Thanks

  11. I want to cover a 3 foot diameter table with a clear resin. It will be going over small pebbles to make a table for outdoors. What would be my best option? A beginner, but I like to try new things.

  12. Hi there, I’m wanting to start making resin charms with easy cast resin. Ill be working in a room that has an outside door, two large opening windows and two smaller windows. Ill make sure to open them when i use the resin. However I’m worried, will I need a mask? I live in the UK, and I have no idea what to look for in UK masks? Do you have any suggestions? Please help.

  13. @Kerri, that should be enough ventilation for you if it’s the Easy Cast Epoxy resin. I don’t think it’s any more bothersome than using fingernail polish.

  14. I’ve made a bunch of posts all over the place… I live in Maui and have had a hard time finding the materials I need. The only epoxy resin I can find is Parks Super Glaze. Do you have any feedback about this brand? It says it’s “ultra-thick.” Will this give me any problems with casting in molds?

    And thanks for answering all my other questions I posted elsewhere! Really appreciate it… 🙂

  15. You seem to be the Answer Lady! You have much wisdom and willing to share. Bless You & may Your kindness return to You & Yours 100 fold! I have a curious need. I am trying to ‘fill in’ the letters in a stepping stone my friend made me with ‘Beckys Place 2013’ drawn in concrete. I want to color pink resin and place 4mm darker pink swarovski chatons into the pour. Should I use the Envirotex Lite?

    1. I am making suncatchers and am using a clear gloss to cover them but am having a hard time getting it smooth. What do you recommend? Also I am having a really hard time finding black pens for outlining!

  16. Hi Katherine,

    I’m interested in making my own hair sticks using photographs I’ve printed on photo paper and cust out. What is the best type of resin to use to great a clear glossy surface that is also hard enough to use for a hair stick? Also, what method would you recomend for applying the resin? Domming or layering? Thanks!

    Birgitta

  17. I would like to fill a ceramic or earthenware bezel with resin. Which resin would work with this (or would it work)? Would the interior of the bezel need to be glazed or unglazed? Many thanks! Kristina

  18. Hi Katherine

    I am using CR20 Polyester Casting Resin and adding a pigment paste to the mixture. I have used the 1% catylyst to the resin and also doubled it as it is only 150 ml tester mould. The mould was then put in a vacuum pot, air bubbles forced out. The results were interesting in both cases..the resin never really became solid…peeling off the brass pen tubes..!!

    I then bought some pigment paste from the same supplier as the resin they manufactured. This time it still had not fully hardened under final turning on the lathe.. but was better than first two experiments..

    Could the problem be the pigment paste causing problems with the setting agent.. as I use Pearlex Powders to enhance my casts adding pine cones for example ..no problems at all..

    I read on your blog somewhere that this can happen with using pigment paste.. If it does can you use powders to alter colour of resin..and does it work as well forming a solid colour..ie Ultramarine??

    Thank you

  19. @Ziggy,

    I don’t have any experience with that kind of polyester casting resin. My first thought is that there is too much moisture to allow the polyester resin to fully cure. Have you talked to the manufacturer? Since you’re using their resin and pigment paste, I would think they would have some good recommendations for you.

    Yes, you can use powder colorants, but unfortunately, you can’t mix two powder colors to make a new color. If ultramarine is what you want, then you need to add a ultramarine powder.

  20. @Kristina,

    I would say most any epoxy resin would work for this project. How big is the vessel? I might make a specific choice based upon the volume of resin you need.

    As for glazed or unglazed, glazed would be preferable if the unglazed pottery changes its look when it gets wet.

  21. Excuse my but I ask my dad to buy me a v for vendatta mask that is made from resin but he refuses saying that resin is bad for your skin and those selling on ebay are for display only. What is he talking about and since all of v for vendatta are made from resin? Thanks.

  22. Excuse my but I ask my dad to buy me a v for vendatta mask that is made from resin but he refuses saying that resin is bad for your skin and those selling on ebay are for display only. What is he talking about and since all of v for vendatta are made from resin? Thanks.

  23. @Alan,
    Once resin is mixed, it is inert and shouldn’t cause any problem to your skin unless you are extra sensitive to it.

  24. Hello Katherine,
    I’m looking for polyurethane doming resin but struggling to find a place to purchase. It will be poured over vinyl decal then mounted on a car. Due to the sun exposure, I believe polyurethane is the way to go. No yellowing, flexible & no cracking. Can you name some brands & online retailer. I tried Arts & Crafts places but only found Epoxy. Thank you

  25. @Ignant,

    Try the folks at smoothon.com. They have a large selection of polyurethane resins that should be able to meet your needs.

  26. @Chloe,

    Yes, epoxy resin would work. You will need to do two pours: one for the ivory pegasus and one for the black background.

  27. Hello, I am a thinking of using polyurethane for my first time, because i do not want yellowing or bubbles that may happen with epoxy. (from reading your thread) Plus I live in Idaho, very dry, but cold right now…if i open windows and fan would it be ok?
    Also you say epoxy is best for beginners (me), will it turn out clear, glass like without bubbles if im just making simple objects like coasters and coffee bean jar lids, etc. Its so expensive and i dont want to buy the wrong one, lol. These will be items I will sell in my craft booth.
    Thank you!!

  28. @stacie,
    You will need to follow the safety directions for the polyurethane you use. Some require respirators whereas others do not. (By the way, just because you can’t smell dangerous fumes doesn’t mean they are not there.) Since you’re a beginner, I will strongly suggest starting with an epoxy resin. The Resin Obsession super clear would be great for what you’re trying to accomplish. It casts super clear and bubbles are almost never a problem.

  29. I’m thinking of making cabochons/decoden for a phone case and I am putting the resin in a mold. Should I use epoxy resin for this? And what brand would be good? And if I want it glossy should I purchase a glaze? Sorry for all the questions x

  30. I am a newbie venturing into the world of resin(jewellery) & after a long search have stumbled on this site. Your answers seem so informative & knowledgeable, I was wondering if you could help me? I have decided to use epoxy resin as I am new to this aspect of craft & its properties seem to tick most of the boxes, however, I am worried that it may discolour, cause irritation to piercings (as it may come into direct contact with them) and ideally I would like to be able to waterproof the finished piece. Are there any varnishes/coatings that would allow the finished product to be hypoallergenic, waterproof & have long lasting colour/clarity? Thank you so much in advance, Kind regards, Hannah

  31. @Katalina,

    You will need a strong resin that will be somewhat impact resistant. I would suggest either the Resin Obsession super clear epoxy resin or the Alumilite Amazing casting polyurethane resin. As long as the mold for your case was produced with a shiny template, your casting should come out shiny as well.

  32. I am planning on building a bar top for my Daiquiri Shop. I have purchased 8 foot bamboo poles that I want to lace together and then cast in Resin. I plan on building a large box mold out of melemine and adding my bamboo and then filling it. It will be over 1 inch thick, but the bamboo will fill most of the area. My question is, what type of resin do you recommend for a clear pour and that can be removed from the mold and is halfway durable. Also, do you have any experience cutting a fully cured cast? Can it be cut on a table saw? Thanks so much. Just found this website and have enjoyed your suggestions.

    Thanks
    http://www.breezyislandice.com

  33. @Hannah,

    I don’t know of any coatings that would specifically make resin hypoallergenic, but if it has cured properly, it shouldn’t cause an allergy problem for the great majority of people. You may want to go with a jewelry quality resin, like the Resin Obsession super clear resin, which is designed for people to use for wearable jewelry.

  34. Hi Katherine, I have learned so much just reading your answers to all the other questions–thank you!
    I want to make pebble soap dishes, using just enough water proof resin to hold the pebbles together (i.e. I don’t plan to fully embed the pebbles in the resin, so water can drain through the pebbles.) What resin would be the best choice?
    Thanks!

  35. @Alison,

    I would either try the Envirotex Lite (assuming it’s going to be a thin layer) or I would try the Resin Obsession super clear resin. The super clear resin should hold up fine to prolonged water exposure, but I’m not sure about the Envirotex Lite. It’s great for countertop coatings and getting water on it, but I just don’t know about prolonged water exposure. I would expect it would be fine here, but you might want to try a test piece first.

  36. Hi Katherine,
    I have a bunch of questions regarding EasyCast resin.Can you kindly help me? I am considering selling resin jewelry on Etsy. Can I sell EasyCast resin based jewelry on Etsy? Is EasyCast resin toxic after drying? I had followed a couple of your videos about epoxy resin and was highly motivated to make some.But in Germany, I did not get epoxy resin so I made some polyester resin jewelry, but it was too cumbersome so I dropped the idea, although they looked wonderful. I wanted to try an alternative, may be EasyCast. Please suggest.

    Thank you,
    Sumona.

  37. Hey there! I have just started painting some abstract acrylic art & would like to put a high glass/shiny coat over the top-However, most of the colors that I am using are neutrals-So I can’t afford to risk the yellowing…What would you suggest that I use?

  38. Hi Katherine 🙂

    I haven’t started yet, but primarily interested in resin Pyramids. I ordered Easy Cast epoxy, but as I’m reading, I feel like it’s not going to set up in a larger mold? My molds are 3-4 inches at base.
    Also, wanted to know how to layer them, to make chakras. I read that basic food coloring will work. How to do the layering? Would I need to wait 24 hours between each layer?? UGH. I don’t have a place where I could use poly resins. 🙁 I have some really great ideas, though. What is your advice on this?
    Thank you so much for this site!

  39. @Shannon, The Easy Cast should work fine, but don’t use food coloring. Resin doesn’t like water! To do the layers, you don’t have to wait until they are completely cured, just cured enough that the two layers won’t blend. Two to three hours between layers should be fine.

  40. Hello! I make antler and bone jewelry. I am looking for a thick durable coating for my pendants. It needs to be crystal clear and shiny. I affix gemstones to the bone and antler cross sections and then cover them. So far I have used poly, but I don’t like how toxic it is and it takes a lot of layers to get even a thin coating. What would you suggest? Thanks in advance for your time and help!

  41. Hi Katherine!
    I work for a company that sells and makes their own body jewelry (ever see those kids with the big holes in their ears?) I follow your blog as a guideline, yet I can’t get my resin to come out clear. We make image plugs, which consist of either an acrylic or steel base. I then cut out an image and lay it into the blank and coat it in resin to give it a dome. I’m having trouble with bubbles and my resin not looking clear. I’m using Max 1618 Impregnating Resin. Is my resin the problem? Are there differences between the kind I’m using and regular resin? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!

  42. @Taylor, I’m not familiar with that resin. I would suggest contacting that manufacturer for tech support.

  43. I am making art projects with pieces of broken glass and glass beads on canvas. What is the best type of epoxy resin to use to coat all the glass pieces and seal them into place? I want everything to be clear (no yellowing or bubbles).
    thanks!

  44. Hi Katherine
    I’m wanting to experiment with pendants which would effectively be a thick silver bezel with a silver back. I want to pour the resin into the pendant cup half way, then set some shell into the half set resin and top it up with a resin top coat. The amounts I will need at a time will be very very small. On the same principle, can you mix sand with resin to give a rough appearance rather than a shiny one, and what would be the best type both these applications. Thank you for your help.
    Sizzler

  45. Hi Katherine. I want to make a wood tea tray and embed sea glass, pebbles & pottery shards. Have never used resin and the posts I find related to this type of project are contradictory. The Easy Cast is limited to amount that can be poured, and the polyester types seem to need a respirator and special shop. Can you help me figure out what kind of resin to use? This will be a usable tray, not just a decorative one. Thank you for your help!

  46. I am making a bottle cap epoxy table top. I used Parks Supr Glaze to start, but am finding that I need more than I originally thought. I have to cover the initial coatings with more epoxy to make it completly level and blemish free. Will it be OK if I switch to a different brand of clear coat epoxy for the next coat, or will the 2 different brands react badly together?

  47. @Tom, It has been my experience that if you put ‘like’ on ‘like’, i.e. epoxy on epoxy, you will most likely be okay.

  48. Hi I would like to pour resin inside a wooden vessel to make it watertight so that it can be used as a vase. I can build up layers or maybe pour some and turn the lathe on to spin the resin onto the inside walls if that will work.
    Please kindly suggest the best product for this use,thank you.

  49. Oh hello!! I really hope you can help me! I’ve spent hours researching epoxies and still am not sure what will work best. I’m leaning toward Hardman Double-Bubble Green, but it doesn’t list “wood” which might be a problem. I am not a crafter, so I need a lot of help…
    My 4-year-old daughter (now in heaven) fought cancer for 2.5 years and “earned” a glass bead for each and every procedure she went through. I want to display them on my wall, so I bought a window (the one that would flank a front door). I hot-glued each bead down on the wooden back, and eventually the glass top will sit over it. However, the glass beads come off with a little hand pressure, and I know a few will fall off when the project is upright on the wall (which is unacceptable). Someone told me to cover it with “liquid glass” or epoxy. This project means a great deal to me emotionally, so I can’t mess it up because I can’t go back and get 1265 beads.
    So I need a CLEAR epoxy/resin/?/ that will hold little glass beads to a backing that is partially hot glue/partially wood. There ARE wood sides to the project. I don’t intend for the beads to be fully submerged, as there will be a glass window on top eventually. What would you recommend? Thank you very much! (feel free to email me if you’d like.)

  50. I should also add, I’d like it to be a glossy finish, but because some of the beads will probably be sticking up through the epoxy/resin, sanding won’t be an option. (The beads are all different sizes). Again, thank you so much.

  51. Hi Katherine, yes, I have thought about using a different glue. It would just require many hours to pull up each individual bead, pick off the glue beneath it, and reglue it. I should have just used a better glue to begin with. I was hoping to save time by just pouring something over them, but perhaps i just need to spend another 10 hours re-glueing.

    Will that E6000 adhesive glue glass to wood? Just verifying!! Thank you for your help.

  52. Hi Katherine,
    I’m wanting to make resin castings for plugs for my ears as in body jewelry. I need to know if resin is too toxic to do this? Any suggestions would welcomed! 🙂
    Thanks,
    Venita

  53. Hi Katherine,I saw in a earlier post that you suggested Resin Obsession super clear epoxy resin or Alumilite Amazing Casting Polyurethane resin to make cabochons. Are any one of these resins harmful.

  54. @Keshia, I would suggest becoming familiar with the MSDS information on the resins you would like to use. Part of that information includes health and safety guidelines.

  55. I have what may be a goofball question: I’m experimenting with casting for the first time to make Halloween decorations- specifically a lifesize skull that I want to add LEDs to to create a glowing effect. I’m new to casting and on a budget and the prices for resin were a bit of a shock. My question is can I use off the shelf Polyurethane (i.e. clear Minwax) to do this? I have a silicone mold that’s currently curing. Also due to volume of material to fill a large cast, I’m attenpting a mold within a mold- I sculpted a ‘brain’ that I’ll make a silicone mold of and insert inside the skull mold. My thought is that I’ll be using less fill volume (will be semi-hollow) and create a cool 3-D see thru effect. But back to the central question: Minwax is Polyurethane right, so can it be used to cast? I was also curious if the Castin’ Craft catalyst would improve curing the Minwax?

  56. @Rob, Minwax is meant to be a coating (e.g. for a bartop). It’s not meant to be used in a mold. You should also only use catalyst designed for the specific resin. The Castin’ Craft catalyst would not work with the minwax resin.

  57. I use an epoxy resin from Little Windows.com The reasin is easy to use and dries hard and clear like glass. Its by far the best I’ve seen for ease of use for beginners and those who are experienced. 🙂

  58. Hi, I am interested in “preserving” a black widow spider in resin for a paperweight. I am a complete novice on this. It will probably be about 2 to 2 1/2 inches thick squared (or so). Which resin type would work for that? How do I go about “drying” the spider without the large part of it’s body shriveling up? Any info on this?I would really appreciate it! thanks, Pat

  59. Hi Katherine, I’m a novice in resin and just as much a novice on the computer – i couldn’t figure out how to get to the forum?..I have watched some you tube videos??but specifically?.have not seen anything about spiders in resin??.I have read that the spider has to be dryed, but when that happens, the body shrivels up??any information you can pass along would be appreciated. Thanks,

  60. Hi. I live on the Big Island of Hawaii and have found a product by fiberglasshawaii.com 2:1 clear epoxy resin. It is less than 50bucks at ACE hardware for the catalyst and a quart of the resin, so I thought I would give it a try. I plan on using it for making orgone. Any experience with this product?

  61. I want to use resin pebble tile. I dont know how to use. I stay in goa and here the climate is too humid. Kindly suggest. I have pebbles where in i want to make a tile out of it.

  62. Hi Katherine! Thank you for your expertise and for sharing it with all of us! What a blessing and a gift! I am new to resin so I understand to use an epoxy. I have an old window. I want to create a 3d effect design by using random broken or cut pieces of glass onto the existing window frame. I’m not sure if I should first glue my pieces onto the window and then pour an epoxy resin over to coat, or if I should first pour my resin onto the window frame and then place my pieces of glass into the resin? Can you tell me your opinion and which resin would be best for this project? Many thanks to you!

  63. @Starr, I would glue the pieces down first. Be sure to coat the back of the piece well with glue so that you have a good adhesion across the entire surface. Doing it the other way would probably still work, but there’s a greater risk of trapped bubbles rising up later in your resin.

  64. Hi Katherine!!! You are fantastic and so informative :-)…thank you for you info and the answers to other peoples questions which where also helpful however I won’t to build a table top (no surface to start with) out of resin and mosaic tiles then later attaching it to a cast iron base…what resin do you recommend? How can I build the surface for it without the resin sticking to it (a box frame covered with wax paper)? How thick should I make it? Will I be able to smooth the edges after it cures? Many thanks for your time 😉

  65. @Kathryn, since you’re pouring the resin into a mold, I would suggest our Resin Obsession super clear resin. The resin won’t stick to wax paper, but your box is going to get heavy. Make sure it has good support while curing. The thickness is your choice, but you will be able to sand it to smooth out any rough edges after it has cured.

  66. I have attempted to use resin in small molds for jewelry. I used alumilite and it cured way too quickly as I barely was able to get it out of the cup after the instructed mixing time. Is there a resin with a longer working time? A few bubbles are not a big deal to me, but the little bit I was able to get out was filled with bubbles.

  67. Hi Ms.K! I’m love your dye products! I purchase them from you all the time! I have a concern about epoxy resin. I have a online store and I make funky jewelry using different shaped resin molds. I like epoxy resin for all of the reason you’ve listed and I’ve been crafting with it for a year now. But I want to find a type of clear casting epoxy resin that will harden like glass. Is there such s thing as that? I mean my pieces come out nicely cured but I want something that will be rock hard and easy to work with that wont eat up my glitter and dye I put into it.

  68. @RebeccaG, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is designed for molds and has a 30 minute working time. Bubbles are almost never a problem. It won’t cure as fast as the Alumilite resin you used, but it will be cured within 24 hours.

  69. Hi, I am making a base( almost 2 1/2″ with resin to insert a cylindrical lamp and I have used FAMOWOOD. This is the second time I use it and perhaps it is clear like glass, it always become yellow as it is curing. I also used resin releaser this time, instead of oil like I was told and I bought it at Michaels. Any idea of why it becomes so yellow? and is it going to work to release this kind of material?
    Thank you

  70. @Heather, unfortunately, I’m not familiar with that brand of resin. Some resins will yellow with time, especially if it’s not one designed for resin jewelry and crafts. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer.

    1. Katherine I have just painfully striped and painted 3 stacking tables. I used Americana Metalic paint. These tables will be used for guests to set plates and sweating drink glasses on. Would the Minwax be my best choice to coat table tops to prevent stains but not change the color? I have dozens of coasters but some friends and family just ignore them. Please help. Thank you, Kathy

      1. Hi Kathy, I’m afraid I don’t have enough experience with wood stains and waxes to know whether or not this is a good choice.

  71. Hi Katherine, thank you so much for that very clear and easy to understand explanation about the different types of resins. I was wondering if the epoxy resin would be the right product to use to make furniture appliqués in silicone molds? Also, I’ve seen that some of the appliqués that they sell on Ebay are made of resin and “wood fillers”. Do you know what type of wood filler can be safely mixed with resin? Can sawdust be mixed with epoxy resin for these appliqués?
    Thank you!

  72. @Linda, I would use a very hard curing epoxy or even a polyurethane resin. Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with wood fillers. Sawdust will take up ‘water stains’ when mixed with resin, unless it is sealed first.

    1. Dear Katherine you seem to know a lot about resins. I want to make A5 paper sheet sized clear panels about 10mm thick with jewellery and other gubbins set in them. What would be best to use, I have never used resin before. Any help would be appreciated.
      Thanks

        1. Dear Katherine thanks for your reply. I intend to make a mould. Essentially a frame on a board lined with polythene and grease agent. Arrange items in frame and then pour over resin. What do you think?
          Chris

          1. Using a good mold release will help. Will you be able to take apart your mold box? Since you won’t be able to flex it, I wonder how you will get out your casting.

          2. The polythene would lift off and that’s how I envisage removing plate. Gonna practice with it but what type of resin should I use.
            Thanks
            Chris

  73. Hi Katherine – I am trying to embed objects in a large casting in a glass container, two layers with the object sitting on the 1st cured layer. I am using a Polyester Resin with a Catalyst but am having issues with the casting getting very hot and then discolouring from clear to a yellowish colour. Can you advise if this discolouring can be controlled along with the heat by reducing the Catalyst – does a larger casting need a lower amount of Catalyst? Thanks in advance!

  74. @Sandy, I would think so, but can’t be absolutely sure since I’m not a chemist. I would suggest checking directly with your resin manufacturer to be positive.

  75. Hi Katherine~I make replica foods for museums and historic houses, and have long used museum-safe materials like air-dry clays, papier mache, acrylic paints, etc., due to concerns about off-gassing and potential damage to period pieces. Having recently used polyurethane resins for an outdoor food display, I was relieved to see your comment that, once cured, resin is inert. I cast small fish in resin. Once thoroughly cured, they were sealed with an acrylic sealer; painted and shaded with acrylic paints; then given another final coat of acrylic sealer. Do you think encapsulating cast/cured resin pieces in museum-safe acrylic sealers should nullify curatorial concerns about off-gassing? Many thanks.

  76. I’ve been using epoxy over wood tables but it doesn’t seem to get hard enough. I have an extremely large tree that I am planning to cut up horizontally into round stump cuts….where you can see all the rings….. and need the best, hardest, cheapest, product available to cover them. Any suggestions?
    I am on facebook Kelly Palmer, {the Tamaha giant} in case you want to see pictures of what I am doing.

  77. Do you mind if I quote a couple of your posts as long as I prodvie credit and sources back to your site?My blog site is in the exact same area of interest as yours and my visitorswould genuinely benefit from some of the information youprodvie here. Please let me know if this ok with you.Regards!

  78. Hi Katherine,

    I’m using Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy, however I noticed that it has a slight yellow tinge to it. Would you have any recommendations for epoxy resins that dry completely colourless? Thanks!

  79. @Apple, if you are pouring the resin into molds, I would suggest the Resin Obsession super clear resin. It dries crystal clear. No yellow!

  80. Hi Katherine,

    I started using Ice resin for my first resin projects.

    I have made two rings in a silicone mould however, I embedded some string into it and some of the string is slightly sticking out and on the other one, the string has left the corner without some resin in it.

    I am wondering can I add more resin to it once it has cured to cover up these pieces and then sand it back?

  81. I’m a complete novice but making a project for my son’s school auction. I need to set bottle caps in a pattern in a wood frame. What do you suggest? Thanks!

  82. @Leslie, if you just want the bottle caps to be a decoration, I would suggest gluing them on instead of trying to set them in resin.

  83. Hi Katherine,
    So excited to find your blog!! It’s great you willing share your knowledge & experience so freely. THANK YOU x
    I’m brand spanking new to the use of resin.
    My project is to use fabric to cover a timber table then cover in resin to seal, protect & preserve the fabric.
    Best adhesive adhere fabric to table & best clear resin to use on top please?

  84. Hi Katherine, thanx a lot for your very informative article, Im gonna fill a big gap between two 1 metere long logs with resin, to form a table!!! What do you suggest؟! And i also have to mold it too.
    Thanx for your helps.

  85. @Michelle, If you are looking for an epoxy, then I would suggest using the Resin Obsession super clear resin. Otherwise, if you are experienced with resin, a polyester would be a good choice here as well.

  86. Hi Katherine,
    I will gladly use the Resin Obsession but is it still considered a soft resin like easycast? Even though my coasters look great I can’t see myself giving them or selling them to someone if the first time they use it it’s going to get indentations. Above there was mention of a resin sealer spray, do you think if I spray that on the coaster before the first use it will solve my problem and make it a harder dent free surface?

  87. Hi everyone,
    Katherine is the only person I have noticed to explain that easycast is a soft resin that if you try you can easily dent a cured piece with your fingernail. That being said I’m confused as to why most people say it is great for coasters. My coasters look amazing but once I set a glass on it it leaves dents. It’s got me very discouraged because I really like making them. But I don’t like that the dent. PLESE HELP!!!

  88. @Michelle, the Resin Obsession super clear resin cures much harder than the Easy Cast epoxy resin. I have used it for coasters and have been very happy with the results. The resin gloss sealer spray will give you a final glossy finish, but won’t harden the resin.

  89. Hey Katherine, I will be making a laptop desk made out of plywood. I will have pictures, paint, maybe some wood letters on the surface. It will have the weight of a laptop on quite often and I would like it to be very clear. What would be the best resin to use?

  90. Hi Katherine I’m a beginner and would like to use resin to cover small wooden laser cut earrings, I would like a dome shape for the resin with limited application. What would be the best resin to use in this instance? Thank you

  91. Dear Katherine,
    I am a beginner! I would like to take jagged pieces of glass and embed them onto a framed window pane. Would you recommend that I first apply a light coat of epoxy and then embed my pieces of glass (hoping this will hold the pieces in place), allow to cure. Then finish window pane with final coat of epoxy? If you feel this is correct, can you share with me the best epoxy to use that will be easiest to use and will dry the clearest with no color. It will be hung will sunlight will be shining through! Thank you for your expertise!

  92. Hi there, I am completely new to resin, I’m wanting to make some keyrings trapping photographs inside, how do i make a hole at the top of a rectangular peice for the split ring to go through? is there a special mold or do i drill?

    Many thanks!!

  93. hi there could please give me some advice on sealing porcleain and ceramics? I’m cutting up old cups and plates for jewellery and the cut pieces being porous are staining easily when worn . I had tried a crystal clear epoxy but found it too soft and tended to get dirty . Obviously I’m not using a mold and need more of a brush on sealant . Thanks heaps in advance 🙂

  94. Hi! I hand paint lazer cut shapes for earring making & I would like to know is there a resin I can use for glazing. I tried Mod Podge, but it doesn’t give me the thick glossy look I’m looking for. Also, if I pour the resin onto the earrings, how can I keep it from running over to the back of the earring? Thanks in advance!

  95. Hi Katherine, it seems like your the wonder woman of resin and I couldn’t find any reference of people covering CD mosaics with resin so I thought I’d ask the resin guru 🙂
    I’m covering a flat table with cut up cds and want a hard protective coating that is clear enough for the cd’s to catch the light in the same way. I tried just a spray varnish but this compromised the shine. The resin also needs to not interfere with the shiny coating as I have learnt grout can (this is my second attempt at this project, I only got up to the grout last time). I think I have narrowed it down to Enviro-tex lite pour on or easy clear cast epoxy but haven’t ruled out Hiflex EasyFlow 60 Polyurethane Liquid Plastic Casting Resin. So…
    1) Which, if any would you recommend for a beginner and an under 1cm deep covering and
    2) how would you recommend I go about making a mould around the edges to keep the resin in while it dries? (I read the above where you mentioned a doming resin however I have been unable to find any at a reasonable price) and
    3) should I use grout with this or would none be better? I don’t mind either look so it’s whatever will work best. 🙂 thank you in advance!

  96. Firehouse kitchen table made of stained plywood with a rounded edge, vinyl department patch adhered to top then coated with resin is the goal…the table is used hard with hot pots regularly set directly on it. Unsure how to treat the wood surface prior to resin as it has already been stained several times. Also unsure of the best adhesive to use for the vinyl decal on the wood prior to epoxy. And then trying to determine the best epoxy/resin. Huge project that we never dreamed would be this hard when it first started out. Your site is the most informative I have found anywhere. Help?!

  97. Hi Katherine,
    I’m so glad I found your page. I hope you can help me with a problem…I have been using a two part epoxy called bio clear 810. I do pours of about 1/4 inch or more where I layer them and paint acrylic in between to create abstract paintings with depth. I have a crab coat that I pour on top as an ultra v protectant to prevent yellowing. I am however still not happy with the clarity. It tends to muddle the under paintings and still yellows a little. I do between 3 to 5 layers. In your experience what is the clearest product I could use for this? thank you so much for any advice you could give -Tracey

    1. Hi I have created a stone carving about 3 feet by 4 feet. 6ins .With part of the middle taken out. The idea is to fill in with a clear resin. maybe a bit of colour in part of it. Which resin and how can you hold it in place. Without it sticking

  98. Hi Katherine,
    So much thanks to you for running this forum, and sharing your expertise!
    I carve jewelry, mostly rings, out of wood. I usually carve tiny settings in them and set semi precious stones using a glue adhesive epoxy. Some of the stones are probably very porous material, and some also break easily. I’m wondering if painting a layer or two of epoxy resin with a brush over these stones will give them a little more strength.
    Also, can I do the same on the wood rings themselves?
    And if I attach the coated stones to the coated wood while still wet, will they stick well enough to each other as to not fall apart? Or should I coat both with resin..let cure, and then just use epoxy glue to adhere them together? I have no experience with epoxy resin, and am a little worried that resin might interrupt the way that light catches the stones and crystals. Thank you for any advice you can give. Much appreciated!

  99. Hello!
    It’s so great to see someone who takes the time to respond to questions!
    So as a beginner, I have a few questions. I’m making a large project in which I would like to use resin in three different parts. I’m making my mailbox.
    In the first, I have cast iron number pieces that I would like to add colored resin to the inside with purple ink (they are like ivy and don’t have a solid middle and so by adding a colored middle it would make them easier to see). I would need it to dry hard, be uv resistant and have a transparancy.

    The second, I am making my mailbox out of stained glass. I’d like to coat it in a doming, crystal clear uv proof, non scratching hard resin so as to protect it more.

    And the third I saw online (as you may have) that one table that was made with photoluminescent glow powder poured I to the natural holes? Well I would like to take a wood board, carve my last name into it and pour the resin mix into that.

    The big wuestions is if their is a resin I could use for all of these projects or if I would have to get different resins for each? And which polyurethane resin would you recommend? I plan to do these in my garage with the door open and during a dry day (I live in Pennsylvania).
    Thanks so much!

  100. You can paint the stones with epoxy, but in my opinion, I do think it will affect the light refraction of the stones. You can use the wet epoxy as a glue (or glue the wet parts together). It will adhere parts well.

  101. Very useful info thankyou.

    Would Epoxy Resin therefore be more suitable for bubble top decals for cars? or would the epoxy be too soft still once cured? I have some decals here and I think they are epoxy as they are quite flexible.

    Also where should I be looking to purchase the right resin for doming automotive decals? any advice would be greatly appreciated. 🙂

  102. Thank you, I tried and contacted smooth-on after looking through their site but they said their products don’t dome and wouldn’t work for what I want to do. Thank you though! I’ll just keep looking:)

  103. Hello, where I am at, many of the resin’s are unavailable such as the actual casting resin, the only resins I have access to are resins found in home depot, such as parks super gloss resin, or one of the quick setting epoxy resins that are mainly used for bonding, am I able to use the parks super gloss or the quick setting epoxy resin to make little beads/casts from molds? Or is the super gloss only good for “glossing”, and the quick set wouldn’t set right/ or get stuck to the silicon mold?

  104. @Amy, I wouldn’t expect those resins to work well. They are meant to be used as adhesives and tend to mix very thick.

  105. Hi Katherine I was wondering could you help I am doing an Art project I want to finish my canvas works with epoxy resin which I am finding hard to get at short notice.Would it be on to use polyester resin ?

  106. @Cass, no, I would not recommend a polyester resin. The surface exposed to air remains sticky and would require sanding.

  107. Hey Katherine,

    I am looking to make a larger mold of a traditional water jug (half gallon) and want to fill the inside with nuts to make it look like the nuts suspended in water. That being said I want it to be as clear as possible just like water. Would you recommend a polyester resin or epoxy resin for this? Also since it is such a large object I am worried about cracking and how stable the resin will be once it fills the handle. Would you suggest pouring all at once or in layers to help minimize this? Any other tips you have for pouring larger molds please let me know! Thanks for your help!

  108. @Shawn, With a casting that large, I would suggest going ‘inexpensive’. You are going to have challenges regardless of the resin you use. You will have to pour in layers because the amount of heat a casting that large and thick poured at once will be a lot. You may need to consider pressure or vacuum casting to make sure your casting(s) come out bubble free.

  109. Hi Katherine,

    I am looking to cast some paper sculptures, ranging from 10 cm by 10 cm to chair size, and wondered what the best and most economical way would be to do this. I wouldn’t mind it cracking and causing bubbles as it would give a more interesting effect and I can always recast to solidify the cracks I think. Starting with the 10 by 10 what would be the best way to make a cheap cube mold and the best epoxy or polyester Resin to use that is transparent and hard? Thanks 🙂

  110. I am looking to make 1″x1″ trinkets. I plan on painting them with acrylic paint so I assume I would use white resin? Which resin would be best if I need a hard and sturdy product? And what should I use to protect the paint from chipping from wear? Thanks so much!

  111. Hi Katherine,

    I have a fish skeleton that I would like to cast and frame to put on a wall. The skeleton is about 8 inches long and 4 inches tall and it’s about an inch in thickness. What would be the best product should I use so it doesn’t damage the bones? Or is this even possible? I appreciate your help! Thanks!

    1. Hi Tina, do you have a frame to put the fish in? A casting that large is going to be heavy, so I’m wondering what you have for your frame. I can then make some suggestions.

      1. Hi Katherine,

        I bought a plastic box frame from the craft store that is 8″x10″. The problem with that is that I’m not sure if it’s deep enough. The fish is about 3/4″ thick and the box frame is only about an inch thick so that wouldn’t leave much room. I have another plastic box that I can cut the sides down so that it will be deep enough if I need to and it’s about the same dimensions, if that makes sense. I’m going to make the actual frame out of some barn wood.

  112. Greetings! I am writing from Brasil to kindly ask for help: I am trying to make a marble dust surface finishing to cover the surface of an open air art sculpture made of concrete plates. The idea is to apply a thick layer of marble dust pre-mixed with epoxi resin, spreading it over the concrete plates surface, and once the resin is cured and dry, to grind it and polish. The tricky thing is that when i mix the marble dust with resin, the marble dust turns grey. I have been using titanium dioxide powder (white pigment) to make it white again, but i feel it comes out less natural then if i was able to preserve the marble dust natural color. I am making several tests trying to make the powder impermeable before mixing it with resin. My impression is that the reason the marble dust turns out darker (more grey than white) it´s because it gets ‘wet’-like, soaked in resin, just like beach sand turns darker when wet. Please help me figure this out, how can i preserve the white tone of the original marble dust when mixing it with resin? I am currently using 40 grain of marble dust mixed with a less thick powder like grain. the idea is that it will shine in the sun the most possible, without using the white pigment (titanium dioxide), preserving the white from the marble grain and dust when mixed with resin. Sorry for the long explanation and thank you tons in advance for the attention. Best, Marcello

    1. Hi Marcello, yes, you are correct in that the dust is turning grey because it is getting wet. The best suggestion I can give you is to try a powder additive specifically designed for resin. We have several powder colorants in our shop that may be of help. http://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/Powder Unfortunately, I don’t have a good way to help you keep the marble dust ‘dry’ enough so that it looks good when mixed with resin.

      1. Hi Katherine, appreciate your reply.

        I noticed writen where it described the diferences between types of resin, that the “Epoxy resin won’t withstand the heat produced by a polishing wheel and will turn cloudy on the surface”.

        What if i use a wet poIisher, would that permit me to reach the high gloss with epoxy resin and marble dust? I was figuring the water would keep the temperature lower and not afect the resin..

        Thanks!
        best,
        M.

        1. I don’t know. I’ve only ever used a wet polisher when I’m making my own cabochons from minerals, stones and such. It would be worth a try, but make sure the resin is very hard and fully cured first. If you give it a try, let me know how it goes.

  113. Could anyone please let me know if epoxy resin will turn yellow with time or UV exposure? I’m a beginner to resin and I have no idea about this. Besides, how many layers does a project require? I mean, is a project made of resin enough or does it always need a coating resin? Please help me.
    Thank you so much

    1. All resins will eventually yellow with UV light exposure. Some have additives to slow down this process so that it takes years instead of months. As for your project, one layer should do it. You shouldn’t need an extra coating unless you want it to be very shiny.

  114. Hey there, hopefully you are still answering questions here!
    I’d love to know what resin you would recommend for me to make things like this for my ears, http://i.imgur.com/9wxxg49.png
    I will be pouring the resin into steel tunnels. I am hoping to be able to put lots of different things in the resin, like dried flowers, crushed opal shards, solvent resistant glitter, metals etc.
    Thank you so much for your time 🙂

      1. Thank you!
        Yeah, I will be pouring it into and leaving it inside of the steel eyelets so that it doesn’t touch any skin.

  115. Katherine, you seem so full of knowledge on this subject that I can’t help but ask you about something I’m trying to work on! I’m a beginner with all of this and was wondering what would be the best epoxy to use to make a cake plate? I plan on putting candy throughout it and just want it to come out as clear and sturdy as possible! – Hope to hear back. I’d love your input! Thank you so much!
    *I also have two different molds for it. One being silicone and the other is a thinner plastic

  116. Hi Katheirne,
    I’m a beginner when it comes with using resin and like any beginner I’ve been encountering so bumps along the way. I’m currently using the easy cast resin with silicon bangle molds. When I take the bangle out after 24hours the top is clear as glass but the sides are a frosted look. I like the look for some jewelry but would love to make an item that is like glass all around. What is your advice for making the whole product crystal clear?

    If you need a visual for my current product, my etsy shop can be viewed at http://www.etsy.com/shop/QuirkyLeaves

    Thank you 🙂

    1. What template did you use to make your silicone bangle mold? The silicone will pick up the surface of your template. If the template had a frosty look, so will subsequent castings from a mold made from that template.

  117. Hi katerine
    Im trying to cast some pictures and pennies within a small panel door that has a recess of about 1ft x 2ft and a thickness of about 4-5 mm what would be a good water clear resin to use?
    I did try using poly craft slow set polyurethane water clear casting resin but after it all going really well i left it to cure over night to find large raised bubbles had formed, i live in the UK so humidity is high so im guessing that was the cause also i wasnt sure if i need to do a sealant coat first of some sort (its fatory paint finished MDF)
    Any advice would be appreciated
    Thank you

      1. Hi katherine, thank you
        Do you have any advice for suspending photos in 5mm cast
        I was thinking of doing a 3mm base layer then 2mm over the photo but im struggling to find definitive answers on how to go about it and i see you are definitely a resin guru, would the base layer need to fully cure so as to sick the photos down before the second layer?

  118. I am making up a Sea Glass and Sea Shell grouping in a OLD Printers Tray. The backing on the tray is fiberboard and I want to fill each section with some beach pebbles. I would like to know what you think would be the best way to adhere them to each section…..glue them in individually …use resin or what would you suggest?

    1. I would probably glue them in. The resin is going to seep through the fiberboard and make it look waterstained in those areas.

  119. I’m making fairy wings that are thin, I’ve made them with epoxy resin and they are flexible. I want hard wings that don’t bend that are clear but where i can add pigments if i want. what should i use?

  120. Hi Katherine,
    Great website! Do you think this would work on brass
    porch lights? I don’t have a porch so they really take a
    beating.
    I heard that the latest thing to protect brass is acrylic
    urethane… but I like the idea that resin is so thick. Is this a
    crazy idea or do you think it would hold up okay under the weather and very hot Texas summers?

    Really appreciate any advice!
    Nicole

    1. You would need to use a resin designed for outdoor use. An industrial marine resin would be my choice for a project like this.

  121. Hi
    I hope someone can help me . I make inlay and I used deyed wood to my project.. now I want use black polyster resin or proxy on my project. I want to know does polyster resin or proxy effect on dyed wood . disapper the stain from woood If I use polyster resin on my project ?
    thanks

    1. I wouldn’t expect it to change the dyed effect of the wood, but I am concerned whether or not the wood treatment would affect the resin’s ability to stick to it.

  122. Hello, I have an acrylic container in which I am displaying sand samples from all over the world. Each compartment of the container holds about 2 cups volume, and each compartment is about 2/3 full of sand. I would like to add clear resin to the top to ‘seal’ the sand in each compartment to prevent so I won’t have spillage or mixing of the sands. I think I’ll need about 2.5×2.5×1 inch volume of resin to top off each compartment. What would you suggest? I’m a newbie and not really prone to detail work….but if need be, I can employ my meticulous engineering husband to the task.

  123. Good morning. Can i use easy cast epoxy resin at the bottom of a coffee cup? Will it be safe to drink from? I want to draw a picture and have it be seen at the bottom of the cup when you need a refill. ;).

    Thanks!

    1. The manufacturer has not tested the resin at that temperature. Unfortunately, they cannot recommend it for that purpose.

    1. HI Sara, I would suggest dipping it in resin and allowing it to cure first. That will seal any air in or out. Once it is cured, use it as you would any other inclusion in your resin.

  124. I want to make resin covered leaf ornaments and bowls but I’m not sure what resin to use. Where I live is dry and cold in the winter but humid in the summer and I currently don’t have a work space (Except my balcony) as I’m in an apartment. Any recommendations?

  125. Help! I was trying to buff a gloss onto a 1 1/2″ circle of resin. I was just given a dremel mototool. When I put the cloth circle to the resin it immediately scraped a large scuff onto the top of the piece! Can it be buffed out with sandpaper? Or would coating it with more resin help? I’m a newbie and I’m lost!

    1. Hi Renee, sorry to hear you are having problems. How big is the scuff? The reason I ask is that recoating with another layer of resin would be easiest, but if the scuff is coarse, the resin won’t completely mask the scratch. Instead of looking smooth and glossy, it will look a little frosted underneath. Without seeing your scratch, I would try to sand it down, finishing with (at least) a 1000 grit paper or higher. Then, you can recover with resin.

  126. Hi! I am making jewelry and it seems like the polyester resin is reacting with the metal jewelry bezel and turning some of the edges green. Is there any way to prevent this? I am also finding that it doesn’t fully set and the smell is horrible. Any other suggestions for a resin that sets clear and quickly that won’t react with metal?

  127. I want to fill a hollow 2 in. diameter glass sphere. The glass sphere does have an opening to allow for me to pour fluids into it. From what I’ve read on this page, it seems like the polyester would be the best. I’m worried that when it cures, the polyester will pull away from the glass sphere. I need something that will fill the space with a clear finish and not contract as it cures. Thoughts? Thank you!

    1. Hi Alex, based upon your comment, I think an epoxy would probably be better. Why were you considering a polyester resin?

  128. Miss katherine, how nice of you to respond to all these questions for so many years. Its obvious your very appreciated. My question has to do with large scale epoxy table casting molds, if not already asked prior. I noticed an italian company called Nucleo Studios that cast these solid beautiful epoxy tables with wood boards dipped into set up as legs. They call it wood fossil. Im going to attempt this art but id like to avoid costly mistakes. Now I noticed you mentioned epoxy cures soft in a large thick scale. Should i use polyester resin? An would it be wise to cast these 3in thick resin slabs in acrylic made molds with a release? What are good large scale mold making materials that epoxy nor poly will stick too after cure?

    1. If I were going to attempt this project, yes, I would use a polyester resin. If you were going to try casting them in an acrylic sided mold, you would definitely need to use mold release. Resin will stick to acrylic. Once cured, the epoxy and polyester resin shouldn’t stick to silicone.

      1. Thank you for the reassurance and not saying its impossible. Im going for it. I do know big companies have access to autoclavs an all types of advance equipment to cast large composites. I wanna find the limit of what one person can do from home without the fancy machines and without creating a chemical melt down disaster in ones garge. Ill check up.

  129. can i post my question regarding application of epoxy resin-hardener (2:1 ratio ) here.i very desperately need help / solution for problem -bubbles coming to surface 20/25 min after applying epoxy coat /may be surface tension .i don’t know what exactly my problem is. i am using localy manufacture and sold epoxy resin hardner. can i pasted some photos which will describe my problem in better way because i ma sort of newbe in using resin-hardener. can u tell me if the way i am using epoxy hardener-resin in correct way. i am making paintings/frame on 8 mm mdf board ,the size is 12×16 inc.. i applied wall primer first and after it dried i painted designs with instant coffee powder +water. after it dried i applied epoxy. i mixed resin and hardener in 2:1 ration for 10 min and after that i kept i aside for another 10 min. after that (after 15/20 min app.)i applied epoxy on my painting. for 20/ 25 min app. there was no problem. the epoxy cured and surface is smmoth the gloss is perfect but the frame /painting held infront of i could see pits under smooth surface making my frame look horrible.

    1. It may be that the resin is reacting with something on the surface of your painting. I would suggest sealing the entire piece with a layer of an acrylic based spray first.

  130. will butane torch/propane torch eliminate bubbles( of all size) in epoxy (resin+hardener )coat on 8mm mdf board?which is safer to use for first time user like me ?

  131. Hi Miss Katherine! I am so excited about finding this forum. I have been working on a round table for my mom for longer that I care to admit. I have sanded it, gel stained it, sanded it again bc gel stain streaks, polyurethane unsuccessfully, stripped all of that off…got back to square one. (i guess) then went through the whole 2 parts of epoxy resin on top of table 3 , yes 3 separate times. Looked beautiful except of the dust particles and a couple of mosquitoes that dipped into also. (yay!) So I began wet sanding it after it cured for a couple of weeks. Then I applied appropriately an ultimate compound and ultimate polish both by meguiar’s with an orbital sander. Didn’t give me shine like I wanted plus had more swirl marks which ironically is suppose to help with those. Today I have wet sanded with a little soapy water with 800 grit, cleaned, 1200 grit, cleaned, and 1500 grit. The epoxy is very smooth an free from any blemishes at this time. I’m at wits end and am thinking about putting minwax paste finishing wax over it. Will that work to give me a polished not cloudy overall look? Or do you recommend anything different to go over the epoxy. Or should I just put this to the curb and buy my mom a new table?? Thanks for any info from anyone! I really appreciate reading all of the FAQs!

    1. Assuming you have a nice, smooth finish from the 1500 grit sandpaper, one more layer of resin should give it a glossy finish. To keep dust particles, etc. out of it while it is curing, you need to find a way to cover it while the resin is still wet. How big is the table?

      1. for frames /paintings..
        i am using 8 mm mdf board. i earlier tried to coat it epoxy resin+hardener. but even after 2nd coat there were bubbles+pits on frames i have made. the resin i am using is thick (like honey). i kept the resin and hardener bottles in hot water before mixing . but by the time i started to apply 1st coat,the mix had started getting thick once again. i am thinking of using some other brand of epoxy. i came across other set of epoxy resin+hardener at shop. the epoxy in this set was thin almost like water . so i wanted to know whether i should try thin epoxy resin+hardener.

        1. For what you are doing, you will need a ‘thicker’ resin because you need the extra surface tension to let the resin dome on top of your painting. It sounds like you may need a resin with a longer pot time, which will give you more time after mixing to get it onto your painting.

  132. Thank you!
    I’ve been looking for a durable coating (needs to be a bit flexible too) for shrink plastic, both drawn and printed… jewelry. Spray coatings sometimes spit a little thicker, making sharpie pen run ( can'[t depend on the “light” coating.. and I don’t have an “outdoors” for spraying most days, means I can’t finish at night), brush on coating seem to cause even more running of inks or pens. I’ve been using nail gel for some, but, not as crisp looking of a coating and more work and, if the item gets wet, moisture seeps between the gel coating and the plastic, bend it too much and it separates (does not really seal to the plastic)… it seems like mixing small amounts of resin might be annoying, but… would it solve some of the other problems?

      1. I can’t reheat it… I shape t hem while warm and the layer there looks very thick, I need a thin coat. Maybe I’m stuck with spray on…

  133. i am coating my 8mm mdf board frame/paintings with epoxy coat. the resin i am using is thick like honey. i mixed resin and hardener for 5 min slowly. kept it aside for 5 min. but the mix was cold even after 10 min.is it due to weather (winter season temp 12-18 degree c) or something else?

    1. Yes. I would suggest warming the bottles in a warm water bath for 5 minutes or so before using in cold temperatures. You can also try using a space heater for your area.

    1. It could be where the resin started to cure and a bubble finally popped. The resin may not have been liquid enough to fill in the void.

  134. will thin resin help me ?
    the surface is smooth,prefect gloss, but if frame held in front of light anyone can see pits.

    1. Thin resin isn’t going to stay on the surface very well. I would suggest mixing smaller batches of resin. It may be that you are trying to use too large a quantity for the amount of pot time the resin has.

  135. The colors you describe aren’t necessarily unusual. When you mix them together, they should go clear. If the resin is dark yellow, it may be old. I’ve never heard of ‘glass epoxy resin’ however.

  136. Hi!

    I have been trying my hand in resin jewelry, as it is easier to do at home away from the studio where I do metal work. I am working on making some resin ring designs using molds, but would like to know what the best kind of resin is to use for SOLID bracelets, rings, etc. I don’t think the alumilite I have been using for pendants will cut it, as it melts with body heat.

    Thanks!

    Kim

      1. Hi Katherine,

        I have been using the Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast thus far. I have found that if I wear the rings I created, they end up warping from my body heat!

        Kim

  137. I want to make roofing sheet used natural fiber. so i thought the best resin type is polyester resin. Is that correct? Can you help me please

    1. I don’t have experience using resin for that industrial a purpose. I’m afraid I can’t offer you any advice.

  138. Hi Katherine,
    I am wanting to make mosaic stained glass pictures with tumbled glass. I am using picture frames with the glass that came with the frame and have been gluing the pieces to the glass using E6000 glue. Then I want to use a resin to fill the gaps between the glass pieces. However I do not know which type or make of Resin to use. Please, please can you help me with this as I want to get going as soon as possible. Many thanks. If you could email me that would be great. I very much look forward to hearing from you.

          1. For the grouting I would put the mixed resin in a squeezy bottle with a narrow tip then apply the resin around the pieces of glass. There will also be areas in the same piece which will be painted onthe glass which will need coating too.

  139. Iam fresh for resin. While mixing resin and hardner the mixture is going in yellow colour. And after dry also it is not good and shining to see. How can I overcome this. Please advice me

  140. Hi all, looks like this might be the place to answer my questions three (after looking all over online) 🙂

    I’m building a guitar and want to make the inlay dots and headstock logo look like shiny rubies. After reading this FAQ I reckon polyester resin is the one for me as it will dry hard, now…
    1) If I pour the resin into the holes for the dots etc will it adhere to the wood, do I have to worry about it seeping into the wood? Or is there a chance the dots could fall out?
    2) Will I be able to sand it down (even with very fine sandpaper) after it sets to make sure it is exactly level with the fretboard?
    3) After sanding it level I then apply a thin coat of nitrocellulose lacquer over the whole guitar in order to seal the paint and protect the wood, is this going to affect the resin at all (or is the resin going to affect the lacquer?

    Any advice or help with these questions would be gratefully received, thank you

    1. Yes, the resin will adhere to the wood, but I don’t know whether or not the surrounding wood will show ‘water’ stains. The dots shouldn’t fall out, but I would certainly try a test piece first. Yes, the resin can be sanded after curing. I don’t have any experience using nitrocellulose lacquer over cured resin. I would suggest checking with the manufacturers of the specific resins you want to use for their advice.

  141. Dear Katherine,
    we would like to use resin to make a new counter for a bar (shaped in an L) from one piece to put on their existing pedestal and the masters don’t know how to do it; the mold and procedure so the question is –> What should the mold be from to make the counter on the floor lets say, and be able to take it out of the mold in one piece when it dries and put it on the pedestal??
    Or if its possible to make it on top of the existing pedestal if we protect the under layers, how to achieve that ?
    Also important is that we would like to make the counter from black resin, minimum/medium thickness possible to be nice straight and with no bumps…..
    Could epoxy floor or wall resin be used for that case too?
    Is it possible & how ;)?
    Thankyou in advance you would save us

    1. The easiest way to do this, as I see it, is to have a wooden bar top that you will coat with resin. I would suggest the Alumilite Amazing clear cast resin, tinted with the Alumilite black colorant, to get you the black you are wanting. Both can be found here: http://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-clear-cast-epoxy-resin-16-ounces http://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/products/alumilite-liquid-pigment-transparent-dye

      1. Thank you very much for answering so fast… but our idea was to pour it all out of resin a cm,2 or more if suggested for floors because wood doesnt match nicely with the rest of it and needed advice from what material to make a mold for something so big.. The counter is shaped in an L and is 300×150 cm, and Ive got an advise so far that the mold/frame can be made of shiny wood if we put a separator material – how its called (dont know the right name but they should know in store) but as we have a round angle in the L it cannot be wood but plexiglass – its our other option because it can bend nicely… Do u think thats the best/ or ok solution if we want to have it in one big piece of epoxy ?
        Thanks again!

        1. You can try a wooden or plexiglass box. The trick will be to have it coated with something that will release your resin casting. Unfortunately, it’s not something I have any experience with, but if I were to try, this would be my mold release of choice: http://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/petrolease-non-silicone-food-grade-mold-release You will also need to find a way to take the mold box apart after casting the resin as you won’t be able to flex it and pop the resin out.

  142. Also, forgot this, is resin a durable enough material for frequent usage in a bar, so drinks and food all day n nite ? Does it show signs of wear after a while ?
    Thankyou

    1. In my opinion, this resin is durable enough for a coating for a bar top with regular use. You may need to recoat it once a year or so to keep it looking new.

  143. The white Amazing(brand) Resin that sets in 10 minutes..and cures white..
    Do you use a catalyst with it?
    Also, can you add color to the mix?

  144. Hi guys wonder can anyone help? I have a ring blank I want to fill with resin, it has a hole in it it was a ring blank for a cabochon. Is there anything I could cut out and set over the hole that is see though and that will stay out once the resin sets! Thanks

  145. What kind of plastic is Castin Craft Epoxy Resin? I’m looking to get scratches out of my project and I don’t know what type of plastic it is.

  146. I’m not sure I understand your question. Do you have a link to an example of what you are trying to create?

  147. Hi Katherine –

    I’m wondering if you have suggestions for glues that would affix hardened polyester resin casts to acrylic plastic bases — how best to glue polyester resin to other surfaces, really. I have deep cast a few items in polyester resin, and now I want to affix the cast to the base of a plastic display case. I am trying E6000, but it doesn’t really seem to want to set or glue hard. Is there another good glue option? One that might dry clear? Many many thanks in advance!

    1. I would try mixing up an epoxy resin to act as your glue. If your glue area is hidden, a five minute epoxy is fine. If your glue area is more visible, I would suggest a jewelry quality resin since it will yellow more slowly than the industrial kinds.

  148. I am making a table top 2’x8′. I have about a 1/2″ lip around the sides and I have filled it with sand, shells, tiles for a checkerboard and family photos that have been glued down. This table is going to be used outside and uncovered. What would be the best type of resin to use? I think if I use the epoxy it will be about 5 gallons…not sure how much the Polyester resin would require me to need if that is better suggested. Please help before I purchase as I know its going to be pricey and want to do it right the first time.

  149. I am coating RTIC cups and the envirotex leave little baby bubbles. Any suggestions on how to get rid of the bubbles or what to use instead.

    Thanks!

  150. Sir. I saw your article.
    I was so surprised your skill and ability.
    And i respecting you.
    I Trying to real carbon fiber epoxy resin task.
    (car indoor material.. for example dashboard.. )
    How product(epoxy resin) is recommended for this task?
    Thanks your help.
    Regards.

    1. I’m afraid I don’t have any experience with that type of use for resin and cannot make a recommendation.

  151. Hi Katherine,

    What a wonderful site! I’m hoping to make some lamp bases and was wondering if The Polyester Resin would be the best way to go? I am hoping to create a fractured effect and wasn’t sure what would be the best way to achieve these results. Could you please advise a way that would achieve a consistent fracture throughout the lamp base.

    Kindest Regards,

    Gen

  152. Hi Katherine,
    I read through as many of the comments as possible hoping to find a similar project but gave up after the first 100. I have a square wooden shelf “box” with no back or front. My intention is to secure the box on to a flat surface, pour a shallow pool of resin (to make a clear front). Once that is dry I’m going to lay sea glass on the resin front and then pour resin over all the glass. Once that is complete I’m going to attach a light source behind the glass and hang it on the wall.

    #1) Recommendations for resin?
    #2) What surface/ preparation should I use to secure the box to the flat surface so that I can peel it away once it’s dried.

    I hope this all made sense…

  153. A couple questions:

    1) I purchased some 20MM Round Bezel Cufflinks and Tie Clips Blanks. If I want to use custom images to make my own Cufflinks sets, would you recommend: A) Glass Cabochons, B) Epoxy Ice Resin or C) Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy Resin?

    I’d like to use Glass Cabochons as I have heard that they are less likely to scratch/scuff, but I’ve read it is hard to find round bezel blanks and glass cabochons that fit well together consistently (even when listed as the same size). I am a perfectionist, so this sounds less than ideal.

    2) I have read that sealing the images helps prevent potential issues. If I wanted to seal coat the images prior to adhering them to the metal blanks, would you recommend: A) Mod Podge, B) Diamond Glaze or C) Glossy Accents?
    > Once dry, will all of these product options allow me to re-apply and secure the image to the metal blanks without incident?
    > Once dry, will any of these product options react negatively when the metal blanks are filled with epoxy resin?

    Thanks in advance for your help answering these questions and saving me some time, hassle and money!

    1. For high contact pieces such as cuff links, glass cabochons may work better since they are less likely to scratch or show damage. If you wanted to work with a resin, the Ice resin will cure harder than the Easy Cast resin.

      I use Mod Podge to seal my images, but any clear drying glue should work. Seal the image, then seal it again to the bottom of your bezel. Make sure everything is thoroughly dry (12 hours or more) before pouring the resin.

      1. Katherine,

        If the round bezel is too high and leaves a rim around the edge with glass cabochons, would it make sense to fill the blank halfway with resin, then secure the glass cabochons with it shortly thereafter?

        I’d like to think this would seal the Cufflinks and help disguise any unevenness that might exist around the edge.

        1. Sounds like a lot of extra work. Instead, I would use a bezel pusher (like you are setting gemstones) to push the bezel around the glass cabochon.

  154. Hi, I was wondering if there is any difference between the epoxy resin that you mentioned, and the epoxy adhesive usually sold at hardware stores, such as the Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy glue. Can they be substituted for one another?

    1. It depends on what you want to accomplish. If crystal clear results are important, then you want to go with one of the resins mentioned. Hardware store epoxies tend to cure amber and will amber faster over time.

      1. I see, I was actually intending to add a black opaque pigment to the epoxy. Would the result still be similar with hardware store epoxies as compared to the aforementioned resins?

          1. Another question, is there a standard proportion of pigment to be added to the resin? And does the amount of hardener need to be adjusted accordingly or does it remain the same?

          2. Try to add as little as colorant as possible to achieve the desired effect. Every colorant is different in terms of the mixing directions. For example, when using the Resin Obsession pigments, you need to use extra hardener. For some other brands, that isn’t necessary. I would suggest investigating the specific brand and following their specific directions.

  155. Hey, Katherine. I was wondering if your resin bonds well with wood? I’m working on pendants that are half wood half resin and I have everything except the resin. I know West Systems bonds well to it, but I’m not exactly comfortable spending that much money on it due to its mixing procedure. Plus spending that much, I’d want to be able to use it with all resin pieces. And yours seems perfect for everything else I do. Thanks!

    1. I don’t have any personal experience with this, but I would expect it to do fine. There is minimal shrinkage, which is essential for bonding resin and wood.

    1. Hardener must be used with resin in order for it to cure. Follow the directions of the specific resin kit you want to use. It will tell you how much resin and how much hardener to use.

  156. I have a donut… a very special donut. I’m hoping to preserve it for my husband as a Christmas present. Paper weight or just a silly item for a shelf. I’ve read several food related posts and know I need to get the donut as dry as possible before starting but I was wondering if you know first how I should seal it and then which resin to use? Hoping you can help.

    1. I don’t think this will work well at all. It will be almost impossible for you to get it dry enough to cast in resin. The other problem is that the donut has a lot of trapped air that will come out later during the casting. My best suggestion would be to have someone recreate a donut for you out of polymer clay, then cast that donut into resin.

  157. I’d like to cast decorative frames for my small paintings (size of paintings are 3×4 inches to 6×8 inches) based off a mold made from a clay sculpt. I don’t care about it being clear as the designs I’m currently considering would be completely painted or gilded anyway. I have never cast resin before. It sounds like I should use an epoxy, but wondered if anyone has any advice as I consider my options (specific epoxy resins, or if I should choose something else instead)?

  158. Hi! Im absolutely amazed that after so many years you continue to respond to inquires! Thats awesome. Quick question. Im trying to make some jewelry and dont want my items to tarnish. I made a choker and the clamps i used started to tarnish after a couple wears. I tried to scroll through the comments to see if my question was answered by there are so many! Lol. Any recommendations?

    1. Are you referring to the silver tarnishing? I have used Renaissance Wax on pieces and been very happy with the results. Apply a light amount, buff dry with a soft cloth. It will keep the tarnish away. If the wearer washes the piece with soap and water or ends up using a polishing cloth on it, you will need to reapply the wax. You can also use the wax over cured resin as well. I started using it years ago when I didn’t want customers to ruin the resin finish trying to remove tarnish from the silver. Happy to help. 🙂

  159. Hi Katherine,
    I was just wondering if you have any suggestions for an epoxy resin that dries fairly firm and has very little fumes. I made some jewelry with Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy and it worked very well and there weren’t any noticeable fumes, but it bends very easily and I am worried about selling my jewelry. Also, can you drill wholes in resin? Thank you!