What Kind of Resin Should I Use? Get PRO Advice

what kind of resin should i use

If you’re asking yourself,  ‘What kind of resin should I use?’, let out a big sigh of relief. Because you’re in the right place to get that question answered.

And I get why you’re confused about what to buy. There are so many out there promising the life of pi in the sky. All the descriptions start sounding the same, and you don’t want to make a mistake. Or worse — waste your money buying the wrong stuff.

Hang with me.  I’m going off-topic for a moment, but I PROMISE by the end of this article, you’ll know what kind of resin to use.

fruitcakeLet’s pretend you’re on your way to the office party potluck dinner, and you’ve signed up to bring a cake.  You head to your favorite grocery, grab the first cake you see, and run off to the party. It’s only AFTER you’ve put it on the table and peoples’ eyes go wide that you see it’s a fruitcake.

Sorry, fruitcake lovers, but that stuff is gross.

And even worse, you’re now the butt of the office party jokes, and your secret Santa gets you fruitcake gifts for eternity.

Do you see how you need an idea of what you want the cake for before you ever buy the cake?

The SAME THING happens with resin.

So if you were to ask me, ‘What kind of resin should I use?’ I’ll reply with, ‘What are you making?’

Because you need to know WHAT you’re making with resin BEFORE you buy it.

Just like that fruitcake, no one formula works for every situation. And anyone who tells you differently is a nickel-plated duck dollop.

💡 Pro tip: If you’re a beginner, I cannot stress here enough that you need to start with an epoxy resin.  Why?  Relatively speaking, epoxy is the easiest to work with.  It’s the most forgiving of beginner resin mistakes, plus it’s the easiest to mix and measure.

So now you may be asking yourself, “What kind of epoxy should I use?”

Once again, it depends on what you want your final project to look like.  Here’s the BIG THING to know the answer to when choosing a specific epoxy:

Are you filling a space or coating a surface?

filling a silicone molds with clear epoxy resin

If you’re pouring it INTO something, like a mold or a space for a river table, you want a casting resin.  These are low-viscosity resins that release bubbles easily that you can pour in thick layers.  But because they mix watery, they will run off a surface, making fish eyes, so they aren’t suitable for countertops or artwork.

pouring resin onto a mothers day diy gift photo board

If you’re pouring resin ONTO something to create a glossy surface, you want a doming resin.  This kind of coating epoxy is high-viscosity, so it evenly levels after applying to a surface.  While it can run over the sides when added to a flat surface (for example — applying epoxy to a canvas print), it levels smoothly and gives a shiny finish.  But, because it’s thick, it’s harder to remove bubbles.  That’s why you don’t want to use it with resin molds or epoxy table projects.

⭐️ BONUS:  If want to go down the resin rabbit hole on this stuff, I’ve got even more good stuff for you explaining the types of epoxy.

Like the differences between doming resins and deep pour epoxy

You’ll get all those details in our [FREE] Guide to Choosing a Resin

Awesome!  You’ve picked a type. Now what?

If you’re wondering where you can buy clear epoxy, Resin Obsession has you covered.  Choose from multiple formulas to help you make something amazing.

And this RESIN QUIZ makes it easy to know which formula you need.

Which epoxy should you use?

Learn which epoxy resin is the best one for YOUR project.

Now to be completely honest here, what we sell might be more than you need.

Like if crafting with resin is just a bucket list thing, then any resin can help you make that.

You don’t need one with

✅ top-notch UV protection
✅ the highest safety level designation
✅ made in small batches to give you the freshest product possible.

That big box store stuff that’s been there so long it looks like a doctor’s office urine specimen (might) work for a bucket list project.

kitty kisses

But buy resin and supplies from Resin Obsession, and you’ll get the clearest, freshest stuff possible.

And as an added bonus, our resin kits are blessed with kitty kisses. At no charge.

If epoxy is so great, why would I use anything else?

Once you’ve got advanced skills, there are a couple of other formulas to try.

color swirl rings

You might want to make a resin project that cures quickly.

In that case, you will want to use a quick-curing polyurethane.  These usually fully harden in under thirty minutes, so you can make a project and have it ready to use or wear in under an hour.  Unfortunately though, this formula is very moisture sensitive.  Any amount of water will make the resin bubble and cure looking like a sponge.  It’s also not a type I recommend for beginners since you only have 1 to 1 1/2 minutes to mix and pour it before it starts curing.

lego piece resin bracelet

If you’re working in molds, you might want to try a polyester.

These resins cure hard and are generally cheaper than epoxy.  But they STINK and don’t have a long shelf life. If you want to try it, here’s what else you should know before using polyester resin.

Want more help getting started?

It’s why I wrote the ebook, Resin Fundamentals.  I designed it for beginners to get you from confused to confident in only an afternoon. Buy the PDF book now and get a download link in minutes.

Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2023 Resin Obsession, LLC

Like this post? You may be interested in  What are the types of resin? And Why It Matters.

594 thoughts on “What Kind of Resin Should I Use? Get PRO Advice

    1. In case anyone else is a painter and is interested in what I use to coat paintings – I use Environtex lite and it comes out beautiful every time. I have coated small paintings as well as large 3’x4′ ones. Not a great idea to do on a wrapped canvas as pooling occurs.

      1. What is the difference between Environtex lite and Clear Polyester Casting Resin by Castin’ Craft? I am a painter and I am looking into what’s best to coat my canvas paintings. Something that will give it a “glass topping” look. Thanks!

        1. Hi Katherine!

          I’m looking for something to coat on already finished jewellery pieces, sterling silver and titanium steel rings with cubic zirconia stones to prevent the stones from falling out.

          I would like this coating to dry crystal clear so as not to affect the shine of the metak or stones.

          Do you know o any coating that would do this?


          1. You want the resin to go over top of the stones? I ask because that will make them less ‘sparkly’ because the light will refract differently doing through a coat of resin first.

        2. Loved the details u gave so minutely about resin n its types Katherine. Thanx for sharing all this info. Do u know the answers to these Qs?

          1- Hw to get UV protection in resin? Any method?
          2- Details about silicone resin and acrylic resin? Pot time, cure time, sensitivity, temperature, etc?
          3- Hw to clean the pot n brush used to mix n apply resin? Can the same pot n brush be used again for resin mixing n application?
          4- If ease release spray is not available then what can be used?
          5- If we apply resin on half side of surface n then after drying apply on the other half side, would there be a seperating line formed between both sides after drying or curing of both sides?
          6- For the 2nd coat, only waiting for drying is enough or should wait for 7 days until entire curing of 1st coat is done?

          1. I’m happy to help! Here are answers with numbers that correspond to your questions:
            1. To get UV protection in resin, you need to buy it that way. That notation should be included in the product listing. If you don’t see it, ask the manufacturer.
            2. Every resin is different in terms of pot time, cure time, etc. You will need to get the specifics from the manufacturer of the resin you want to use.
            3. We have a video on our youtube channel showing how to clean resin:


            4. Vaseline can work as a release, but it may leave marks on your casting.
            5. Yes.
            6. Waiting until the second coat is dry, not fully cured, is sufficient for applying a second coat.

        3. The big differences between epoxy and polyester rein is the expansion and contraction under temperatures changes. Polyester is more brittle and is more sensitive to temperatures change, meaning will crack easiy. Epoxy has more options and types.

        4. bubbles…some of the clear brands are bad for bubbling…so you have to get out the alcohol burner..pressure pot or whatever way to fight the bubble war. Then again some products don’t bubble as bad.

          1. I’m a beginner at this. I’m filling small 6×6 acrylic boxes. Only needs to be 1/2 inch thick. So from the great info above I need to use polyester resin. Clarity is important and no bubbles. A logo is on the bottom of the box that will be covered with 1/2 resin

          1. Hi Tracy, unfortunately all resins are going to yellow with UV light exposure. While that video shows experimental conditions, it cannot account for every experience resin may face when used in a practical setting. While I think the results can be used as a guide, users need to understand and test the resin they are using to see if it’s going to work for their specific needs.

      2. I just wanted to point out that you should still be using a respirator/mask of some sort at least (I’m not an expert so maybe stick with a respirator) when working with epoxy resin. It can still irritate your lungs, especially if you react to it! Check out Epoxy is Not My Friend on Facebook.

    2. Hi, I wanted to make dried flower jewelry resin. One that is super clear, minimal bubbles, and one that doesn’t take out the color out of the flowers. Do you know which would be best? Thanks!

      1. Hi Katherine! You seem to be somewhat of an expert in all things resin. I have only ever used epoxy resin, but I am now making jewelry that are around 1/8 inch thick at most. My epoxy resin seems to only cure soft at that thickness. What resin type would you suggest I use to make something near that thick but be around as hard as glass? Please help.

        1. Hi Derik, are you making jewelry in molds or bezels? That will best help me with a resin recommendation.

          1. I appreciate the specific link you sent, but I was asking the type that would work best for this. Epoxy seems to be too soft for thin projects like this.

          2. Hello Katherine! Thank you for all the info on the topic. I want to make personalized phone cases, the idea is to paint a clear plastic phone case with acrylic paint and then coat it with resin. What resin do you think would suit this work the best? I’m sorry if my english is not the best, i’m not a native speaker

    3. I want to put an old dried out rose on display in a sort of beauty and the beast type thing but in a tall square exposy/resin cast and very clear as a gift, I keep reading different articles because this is my first project ever using any resin and I would love some tips and help if you have any? I was wondering what type you would recommend to use?

    4. Hi i have a question. I use Amazing clear cast. I make trays and coaster and cups. I have a problem where on my trays some of the resin gets on the back after I have painted it…how do I prevent this and how do I get it off. Also I normally have so much left over I do i measure it correctly

    5. I need help! I’m still confused.
      I am a first time resin user, I want to do an art project with resin but I still do not know which one to use. What I had in mind, is that I want to make a cube. I’m thinking of starting small like a cube with all sides being 7.5cm long. I want the resin to be crystal clear. Which kind of resin would be best for me?

    6. Enjoyed your article. I bought Envirotex Lite high gloss resin. It was poured over stained glass pieces of glass glued to a window pane. I mixed exactly 1 to 1 as described and it did not totally harden. My research says I have to apply another coat but I am very nervous about doing so because I do not want to ruin my piece. It took a long tine to make. Do you have any suggestions.

  1. Can you use different resins in multiple coats. ie. start with Poly resin let cure and than coat over the top with epoxy resin?

    I am trying to get a hard plastic like rigid shiny finish on real dried orchids?

  2. @Rich, I have layered with different brands of epoxy, but have never put epoxy over polyester for example. If you want to try, I would suggest experimenting with a couple of practice pieces first.

        1. Does anyone kow of any reactions between uv resin and metal (copper in particular) and where to find the info. As when using them together recently the resin hasn’t been curing like normal and ends up rather sticky and still liquid inside???

  3. Im a beginner to resin and want to embed bottle caps and make some coasters. I had the Easy Cast-which was prob at least a year old, and worked well. Low bubbles and nice and clear. I ran out, so I bought the Envirotex Lite-pour on. This is not as clear and full of bubbles. Is this the wrong type of resin for my project? What brand would you recommend or how can I clear up all the littles bubbles the muddled my coasters? Thanks!!

    1. The best remedy for those pesky bubbles in the use of a blow torch. Works in instantly. removes them like magic. Just swipe over quickly. I’m told using a straw works good too.

    2. I am using silicone molds and want to make make up trays, food trays, jewelry boxes and other gifts that use molds some are thick and some are not. I want it to be clear and hard like glass not rubbery what should I use?

  4. The Envirotex is really meant to be more of a coating. It was probably too thick for the mold. Unfortunately, there is no way to clear up the bubbles in a casted product once it’s cured.

  5. Hi Katherine,

    Sorry I am posting this here, but I can’t get my computer to work on the forums….(something I’m doing wrong, I am sure).
    I am trying to figure out something to coat some flat copper or brass blank sheets with. I’m going to use these as bases to pendents which I’m gluing random items onto. Since the flat metal sheet bases I’m using are unfinished I figured it would be nice to coat all of, or at least the back of it with an epoxy resin so that the person wearing it wouldn’t get an allergic reaction or have the piece tarnish due to sweat if the back was touching their skin.
    Do you think epoxy resin would work for this?
    Thank you so so much for your help!

  6. Kristina,

    I think epoxy resin would work very well for this. A few other things come to mind as well for possible use: wax (I like Renaissance wax), acrylic spray, maybe even mod podge??

  7. Thank you so much for the response Katherine.
    For Renaissance wax, if I were to use it on raw brass or copper – do you know how long it “stays” for? I’m assuming it wears off over time, is that an accurate assumption on my part?

    Thanks again. You are the most helpful person I’ve found on the internet. And it’s a big world out here!

    I’ll for sure be using this store in my near future.

  8. Kristina,

    I have used the Renaissance wax in the past to seal my sterling silver and resin pendants and have been quite pleased with the results. I always suggested to my customers that they clean with a soft cloth and a mild soapy water if necessary. I would suspect putting a good grease cutting soap on the pendant would take the wax off. I suppose with regular wear it would eventually need recoating, but I can’t tell you exactly when that might be. Glad I could be of help. 🙂

  9. Hello Katherine,
    Based on the comment above by Kelly, I am thinking that the Easy Cast is the best for my project because I am trying to cover a table top with bottle caps, but I just wanted to double-check it will hold up as well as a polyester one, that sounds like it is harder?? Many thanks!!

  10. Chelsea,

    It depends. If you’re looking at a layer of 1/8″ or less, I would go with the Envirotex. It’s meant for table top coatings, so it might be fine for your project. It will show some wear sooner than an table top poured with polyester, but it’s certainly easier to work with.

      1. What resin to use??? I want to do a beach scene on canvas, using acrylic paint, glass, sand, small shells, etc. I’ve NEVER used resin, because not sure how to do this. Thanks for any answers you can give me.

          1. Hello, I’m trying to make Apple Watch bands. I have the molds but not sure which resin to use that will cure and still be flexible. Is this even possible? I’m new to all this as you can probably tell 🙂

    1. Hi Katheryn
      I am a beginner too, can you advise what resin for a wooden bar top? I am painting the wooden top black and coating it in gold leaf sheets And I wanted to place resin over it. It’s quite a large room that can be ventilated. Thanks

  11. I want to cover a 3 foot diameter table with a clear resin. It will be going over small pebbles to make a table for outdoors. What would be my best option? A beginner, but I like to try new things.

  12. Hi there, I’m wanting to start making resin charms with easy cast resin. Ill be working in a room that has an outside door, two large opening windows and two smaller windows. Ill make sure to open them when i use the resin. However I’m worried, will I need a mask? I live in the UK, and I have no idea what to look for in UK masks? Do you have any suggestions? Please help.

  13. @Kerri, that should be enough ventilation for you if it’s the Easy Cast Epoxy resin. I don’t think it’s any more bothersome than using fingernail polish.

  14. I’ve made a bunch of posts all over the place… I live in Maui and have had a hard time finding the materials I need. The only epoxy resin I can find is Parks Super Glaze. Do you have any feedback about this brand? It says it’s “ultra-thick.” Will this give me any problems with casting in molds?

    And thanks for answering all my other questions I posted elsewhere! Really appreciate it… 🙂

  15. You seem to be the Answer Lady! You have much wisdom and willing to share. Bless You & may Your kindness return to You & Yours 100 fold! I have a curious need. I am trying to ‘fill in’ the letters in a stepping stone my friend made me with ‘Beckys Place 2013’ drawn in concrete. I want to color pink resin and place 4mm darker pink swarovski chatons into the pour. Should I use the Envirotex Lite?

  16. Hi Katherine,

    I’m interested in making my own hair sticks using photographs I’ve printed on photo paper and cust out. What is the best type of resin to use to great a clear glossy surface that is also hard enough to use for a hair stick? Also, what method would you recomend for applying the resin? Domming or layering? Thanks!


  17. I would like to fill a ceramic or earthenware bezel with resin. Which resin would work with this (or would it work)? Would the interior of the bezel need to be glazed or unglazed? Many thanks! Kristina

  18. Hi Katherine

    I am using CR20 Polyester Casting Resin and adding a pigment paste to the mixture. I have used the 1% catylyst to the resin and also doubled it as it is only 150 ml tester mould. The mould was then put in a vacuum pot, air bubbles forced out. The results were interesting in both cases..the resin never really became solid…peeling off the brass pen tubes..!!

    I then bought some pigment paste from the same supplier as the resin they manufactured. This time it still had not fully hardened under final turning on the lathe.. but was better than first two experiments..

    Could the problem be the pigment paste causing problems with the setting agent.. as I use Pearlex Powders to enhance my casts adding pine cones for example ..no problems at all..

    I read on your blog somewhere that this can happen with using pigment paste.. If it does can you use powders to alter colour of resin..and does it work as well forming a solid colour..ie Ultramarine??

    Thank you

  19. @Ziggy,

    I don’t have any experience with that kind of polyester casting resin. My first thought is that there is too much moisture to allow the polyester resin to fully cure. Have you talked to the manufacturer? Since you’re using their resin and pigment paste, I would think they would have some good recommendations for you.

    Yes, you can use powder colorants, but unfortunately, you can’t mix two powder colors to make a new color. If ultramarine is what you want, then you need to add a ultramarine powder.

  20. @Kristina,

    I would say most any epoxy resin would work for this project. How big is the vessel? I might make a specific choice based upon the volume of resin you need.

    As for glazed or unglazed, glazed would be preferable if the unglazed pottery changes its look when it gets wet.

  21. Excuse my but I ask my dad to buy me a v for vendatta mask that is made from resin but he refuses saying that resin is bad for your skin and those selling on ebay are for display only. What is he talking about and since all of v for vendatta are made from resin? Thanks.

  22. Excuse my but I ask my dad to buy me a v for vendatta mask that is made from resin but he refuses saying that resin is bad for your skin and those selling on ebay are for display only. What is he talking about and since all of v for vendatta are made from resin? Thanks.

  23. @Alan,
    Once resin is mixed, it is inert and shouldn’t cause any problem to your skin unless you are extra sensitive to it.

  24. Hello Katherine,
    I’m looking for polyurethane doming resin but struggling to find a place to purchase. It will be poured over vinyl decal then mounted on a car. Due to the sun exposure, I believe polyurethane is the way to go. No yellowing, flexible & no cracking. Can you name some brands & online retailer. I tried Arts & Crafts places but only found Epoxy. Thank you

  25. @Ignant,

    Try the folks at smoothon.com. They have a large selection of polyurethane resins that should be able to meet your needs.

  26. Hi Katherine, I’m wanting to make some cameo necklaces and was wondering if epoxy resin would be alright? I’m a newbie to anything like this I’ve never used it before. Thanks

  27. @Chloe,

    Yes, epoxy resin would work. You will need to do two pours: one for the ivory pegasus and one for the black background.

  28. Hello, I am a thinking of using polyurethane for my first time, because i do not want yellowing or bubbles that may happen with epoxy. (from reading your thread) Plus I live in Idaho, very dry, but cold right now…if i open windows and fan would it be ok?
    Also you say epoxy is best for beginners (me), will it turn out clear, glass like without bubbles if im just making simple objects like coasters and coffee bean jar lids, etc. Its so expensive and i dont want to buy the wrong one, lol. These will be items I will sell in my craft booth.
    Thank you!!

  29. @stacie,
    You will need to follow the safety directions for the polyurethane you use. Some require respirators whereas others do not. (By the way, just because you can’t smell dangerous fumes doesn’t mean they are not there.) Since you’re a beginner, I will strongly suggest starting with an epoxy resin. The Resin Obsession super clear would be great for what you’re trying to accomplish. It casts super clear and bubbles are almost never a problem.

  30. I’m thinking of making cabochons/decoden for a phone case and I am putting the resin in a mold. Should I use epoxy resin for this? And what brand would be good? And if I want it glossy should I purchase a glaze? Sorry for all the questions x

  31. I am a newbie venturing into the world of resin(jewellery) & after a long search have stumbled on this site. Your answers seem so informative & knowledgeable, I was wondering if you could help me? I have decided to use epoxy resin as I am new to this aspect of craft & its properties seem to tick most of the boxes, however, I am worried that it may discolour, cause irritation to piercings (as it may come into direct contact with them) and ideally I would like to be able to waterproof the finished piece. Are there any varnishes/coatings that would allow the finished product to be hypoallergenic, waterproof & have long lasting colour/clarity? Thank you so much in advance, Kind regards, Hannah

  32. @Katalina,

    You will need a strong resin that will be somewhat impact resistant. I would suggest either the Resin Obsession super clear epoxy resin or the Alumilite Amazing casting polyurethane resin. As long as the mold for your case was produced with a shiny template, your casting should come out shiny as well.

  33. I am planning on building a bar top for my Daiquiri Shop. I have purchased 8 foot bamboo poles that I want to lace together and then cast in Resin. I plan on building a large box mold out of melemine and adding my bamboo and then filling it. It will be over 1 inch thick, but the bamboo will fill most of the area. My question is, what type of resin do you recommend for a clear pour and that can be removed from the mold and is halfway durable. Also, do you have any experience cutting a fully cured cast? Can it be cut on a table saw? Thanks so much. Just found this website and have enjoyed your suggestions.


  34. @Hannah,

    I don’t know of any coatings that would specifically make resin hypoallergenic, but if it has cured properly, it shouldn’t cause an allergy problem for the great majority of people. You may want to go with a jewelry quality resin, like the Resin Obsession super clear resin, which is designed for people to use for wearable jewelry.

  35. Hi Katherine, I have learned so much just reading your answers to all the other questions–thank you!
    I want to make pebble soap dishes, using just enough water proof resin to hold the pebbles together (i.e. I don’t plan to fully embed the pebbles in the resin, so water can drain through the pebbles.) What resin would be the best choice?

  36. Hi Katherine,
    I have a bunch of questions regarding EasyCast resin.Can you kindly help me? I am considering selling resin jewelry on Etsy. Can I sell EasyCast resin based jewelry on Etsy? Is EasyCast resin toxic after drying? I had followed a couple of your videos about epoxy resin and was highly motivated to make some.But in Germany, I did not get epoxy resin so I made some polyester resin jewelry, but it was too cumbersome so I dropped the idea, although they looked wonderful. I wanted to try an alternative, may be EasyCast. Please suggest.

    Thank you,

  37. Hey there! I have just started painting some abstract acrylic art & would like to put a high glass/shiny coat over the top-However, most of the colors that I am using are neutrals-So I can’t afford to risk the yellowing…What would you suggest that I use?

  38. Hi Katherine 🙂

    I haven’t started yet, but primarily interested in resin Pyramids. I ordered Easy Cast epoxy, but as I’m reading, I feel like it’s not going to set up in a larger mold? My molds are 3-4 inches at base.
    Also, wanted to know how to layer them, to make chakras. I read that basic food coloring will work. How to do the layering? Would I need to wait 24 hours between each layer?? UGH. I don’t have a place where I could use poly resins. 🙁 I have some really great ideas, though. What is your advice on this?
    Thank you so much for this site!

  39. @Shannon, The Easy Cast should work fine, but don’t use food coloring. Resin doesn’t like water! To do the layers, you don’t have to wait until they are completely cured, just cured enough that the two layers won’t blend. Two to three hours between layers should be fine.

  40. Hello! I make antler and bone jewelry. I am looking for a thick durable coating for my pendants. It needs to be crystal clear and shiny. I affix gemstones to the bone and antler cross sections and then cover them. So far I have used poly, but I don’t like how toxic it is and it takes a lot of layers to get even a thin coating. What would you suggest? Thanks in advance for your time and help!

  41. Hi Katherine!
    I work for a company that sells and makes their own body jewelry (ever see those kids with the big holes in their ears?) I follow your blog as a guideline, yet I can’t get my resin to come out clear. We make image plugs, which consist of either an acrylic or steel base. I then cut out an image and lay it into the blank and coat it in resin to give it a dome. I’m having trouble with bubbles and my resin not looking clear. I’m using Max 1618 Impregnating Resin. Is my resin the problem? Are there differences between the kind I’m using and regular resin? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thank you!

  42. @Taylor, I’m not familiar with that resin. I would suggest contacting that manufacturer for tech support.

  43. I am making art projects with pieces of broken glass and glass beads on canvas. What is the best type of epoxy resin to use to coat all the glass pieces and seal them into place? I want everything to be clear (no yellowing or bubbles).

  44. Hi Katherine
    I’m wanting to experiment with pendants which would effectively be a thick silver bezel with a silver back. I want to pour the resin into the pendant cup half way, then set some shell into the half set resin and top it up with a resin top coat. The amounts I will need at a time will be very very small. On the same principle, can you mix sand with resin to give a rough appearance rather than a shiny one, and what would be the best type both these applications. Thank you for your help.

  45. Hi Katherine. I want to make a wood tea tray and embed sea glass, pebbles & pottery shards. Have never used resin and the posts I find related to this type of project are contradictory. The Easy Cast is limited to amount that can be poured, and the polyester types seem to need a respirator and special shop. Can you help me figure out what kind of resin to use? This will be a usable tray, not just a decorative one. Thank you for your help!

  46. I am making a bottle cap epoxy table top. I used Parks Supr Glaze to start, but am finding that I need more than I originally thought. I have to cover the initial coatings with more epoxy to make it completly level and blemish free. Will it be OK if I switch to a different brand of clear coat epoxy for the next coat, or will the 2 different brands react badly together?

  47. @Tom, It has been my experience that if you put ‘like’ on ‘like’, i.e. epoxy on epoxy, you will most likely be okay.

  48. Hi I would like to pour resin inside a wooden vessel to make it watertight so that it can be used as a vase. I can build up layers or maybe pour some and turn the lathe on to spin the resin onto the inside walls if that will work.
    Please kindly suggest the best product for this use,thank you.

  49. Oh hello!! I really hope you can help me! I’ve spent hours researching epoxies and still am not sure what will work best. I’m leaning toward Hardman Double-Bubble Green, but it doesn’t list “wood” which might be a problem. I am not a crafter, so I need a lot of help…
    My 4-year-old daughter (now in heaven) fought cancer for 2.5 years and “earned” a glass bead for each and every procedure she went through. I want to display them on my wall, so I bought a window (the one that would flank a front door). I hot-glued each bead down on the wooden back, and eventually the glass top will sit over it. However, the glass beads come off with a little hand pressure, and I know a few will fall off when the project is upright on the wall (which is unacceptable). Someone told me to cover it with “liquid glass” or epoxy. This project means a great deal to me emotionally, so I can’t mess it up because I can’t go back and get 1265 beads.
    So I need a CLEAR epoxy/resin/?/ that will hold little glass beads to a backing that is partially hot glue/partially wood. There ARE wood sides to the project. I don’t intend for the beads to be fully submerged, as there will be a glass window on top eventually. What would you recommend? Thank you very much! (feel free to email me if you’d like.)

  50. I should also add, I’d like it to be a glossy finish, but because some of the beads will probably be sticking up through the epoxy/resin, sanding won’t be an option. (The beads are all different sizes). Again, thank you so much.

  51. Hi Katherine, yes, I have thought about using a different glue. It would just require many hours to pull up each individual bead, pick off the glue beneath it, and reglue it. I should have just used a better glue to begin with. I was hoping to save time by just pouring something over them, but perhaps i just need to spend another 10 hours re-glueing.

    Will that E6000 adhesive glue glass to wood? Just verifying!! Thank you for your help.

  52. Hi Katherine,
    I’m wanting to make resin castings for plugs for my ears as in body jewelry. I need to know if resin is too toxic to do this? Any suggestions would welcomed! 🙂

  53. Hi Katherine,I saw in a earlier post that you suggested Resin Obsession super clear epoxy resin or Alumilite Amazing Casting Polyurethane resin to make cabochons. Are any one of these resins harmful.

  54. @Keshia, I would suggest becoming familiar with the MSDS information on the resins you would like to use. Part of that information includes health and safety guidelines.

  55. I have what may be a goofball question: I’m experimenting with casting for the first time to make Halloween decorations- specifically a lifesize skull that I want to add LEDs to to create a glowing effect. I’m new to casting and on a budget and the prices for resin were a bit of a shock. My question is can I use off the shelf Polyurethane (i.e. clear Minwax) to do this? I have a silicone mold that’s currently curing. Also due to volume of material to fill a large cast, I’m attenpting a mold within a mold- I sculpted a ‘brain’ that I’ll make a silicone mold of and insert inside the skull mold. My thought is that I’ll be using less fill volume (will be semi-hollow) and create a cool 3-D see thru effect. But back to the central question: Minwax is Polyurethane right, so can it be used to cast? I was also curious if the Castin’ Craft catalyst would improve curing the Minwax?

  56. @Rob, Minwax is meant to be a coating (e.g. for a bartop). It’s not meant to be used in a mold. You should also only use catalyst designed for the specific resin. The Castin’ Craft catalyst would not work with the minwax resin.

  57. I use an epoxy resin from Little Windows.com The reasin is easy to use and dries hard and clear like glass. Its by far the best I’ve seen for ease of use for beginners and those who are experienced. 🙂

  58. Hi, I am interested in “preserving” a black widow spider in resin for a paperweight. I am a complete novice on this. It will probably be about 2 to 2 1/2 inches thick squared (or so). Which resin type would work for that? How do I go about “drying” the spider without the large part of it’s body shriveling up? Any info on this?I would really appreciate it! thanks, Pat

  59. Hi Katherine, I’m a novice in resin and just as much a novice on the computer – i couldn’t figure out how to get to the forum?..I have watched some you tube videos??but specifically?.have not seen anything about spiders in resin??.I have read that the spider has to be dryed, but when that happens, the body shrivels up??any information you can pass along would be appreciated. Thanks,

  60. Hi. I live on the Big Island of Hawaii and have found a product by fiberglasshawaii.com 2:1 clear epoxy resin. It is less than 50bucks at ACE hardware for the catalyst and a quart of the resin, so I thought I would give it a try. I plan on using it for making orgone. Any experience with this product?

  61. I want to use resin pebble tile. I dont know how to use. I stay in goa and here the climate is too humid. Kindly suggest. I have pebbles where in i want to make a tile out of it.

  62. Hi Katherine! Thank you for your expertise and for sharing it with all of us! What a blessing and a gift! I am new to resin so I understand to use an epoxy. I have an old window. I want to create a 3d effect design by using random broken or cut pieces of glass onto the existing window frame. I’m not sure if I should first glue my pieces onto the window and then pour an epoxy resin over to coat, or if I should first pour my resin onto the window frame and then place my pieces of glass into the resin? Can you tell me your opinion and which resin would be best for this project? Many thanks to you!

  63. @Starr, I would glue the pieces down first. Be sure to coat the back of the piece well with glue so that you have a good adhesion across the entire surface. Doing it the other way would probably still work, but there’s a greater risk of trapped bubbles rising up later in your resin.

  64. Hi Katherine!!! You are fantastic and so informative :-)…thank you for you info and the answers to other peoples questions which where also helpful however I won’t to build a table top (no surface to start with) out of resin and mosaic tiles then later attaching it to a cast iron base…what resin do you recommend? How can I build the surface for it without the resin sticking to it (a box frame covered with wax paper)? How thick should I make it? Will I be able to smooth the edges after it cures? Many thanks for your time 😉

  65. @Kathryn, since you’re pouring the resin into a mold, I would suggest our Resin Obsession super clear resin. The resin won’t stick to wax paper, but your box is going to get heavy. Make sure it has good support while curing. The thickness is your choice, but you will be able to sand it to smooth out any rough edges after it has cured.

  66. I have attempted to use resin in small molds for jewelry. I used alumilite and it cured way too quickly as I barely was able to get it out of the cup after the instructed mixing time. Is there a resin with a longer working time? A few bubbles are not a big deal to me, but the little bit I was able to get out was filled with bubbles.

  67. Hi Ms.K! I’m love your dye products! I purchase them from you all the time! I have a concern about epoxy resin. I have a online store and I make funky jewelry using different shaped resin molds. I like epoxy resin for all of the reason you’ve listed and I’ve been crafting with it for a year now. But I want to find a type of clear casting epoxy resin that will harden like glass. Is there such s thing as that? I mean my pieces come out nicely cured but I want something that will be rock hard and easy to work with that wont eat up my glitter and dye I put into it.

  68. @RebeccaG, the Resin Obsession super clear resin is designed for molds and has a 30 minute working time. Bubbles are almost never a problem. It won’t cure as fast as the Alumilite resin you used, but it will be cured within 24 hours.

  69. Hi, I am making a base( almost 2 1/2″ with resin to insert a cylindrical lamp and I have used FAMOWOOD. This is the second time I use it and perhaps it is clear like glass, it always become yellow as it is curing. I also used resin releaser this time, instead of oil like I was told and I bought it at Michaels. Any idea of why it becomes so yellow? and is it going to work to release this kind of material?
    Thank you

  70. @Heather, unfortunately, I’m not familiar with that brand of resin. Some resins will yellow with time, especially if it’s not one designed for resin jewelry and crafts. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer.

    1. Katherine I have just painfully striped and painted 3 stacking tables. I used Americana Metalic paint. These tables will be used for guests to set plates and sweating drink glasses on. Would the Minwax be my best choice to coat table tops to prevent stains but not change the color? I have dozens of coasters but some friends and family just ignore them. Please help. Thank you, Kathy

      1. Hi Kathy, I’m afraid I don’t have enough experience with wood stains and waxes to know whether or not this is a good choice.

  71. Hi Katherine, thank you so much for that very clear and easy to understand explanation about the different types of resins. I was wondering if the epoxy resin would be the right product to use to make furniture appliqués in silicone molds? Also, I’ve seen that some of the appliqués that they sell on Ebay are made of resin and “wood fillers”. Do you know what type of wood filler can be safely mixed with resin? Can sawdust be mixed with epoxy resin for these appliqués?
    Thank you!

  72. @Linda, I would use a very hard curing epoxy or even a polyurethane resin. Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with wood fillers. Sawdust will take up ‘water stains’ when mixed with resin, unless it is sealed first.

    1. Dear Katherine you seem to know a lot about resins. I want to make A5 paper sheet sized clear panels about 10mm thick with jewellery and other gubbins set in them. What would be best to use, I have never used resin before. Any help would be appreciated.

        1. Dear Katherine thanks for your reply. I intend to make a mould. Essentially a frame on a board lined with polythene and grease agent. Arrange items in frame and then pour over resin. What do you think?

          1. Using a good mold release will help. Will you be able to take apart your mold box? Since you won’t be able to flex it, I wonder how you will get out your casting.

          2. The polythene would lift off and that’s how I envisage removing plate. Gonna practice with it but what type of resin should I use.

  73. Hi Katherine – I am trying to embed objects in a large casting in a glass container, two layers with the object sitting on the 1st cured layer. I am using a Polyester Resin with a Catalyst but am having issues with the casting getting very hot and then discolouring from clear to a yellowish colour. Can you advise if this discolouring can be controlled along with the heat by reducing the Catalyst – does a larger casting need a lower amount of Catalyst? Thanks in advance!

  74. @Richard, I’m afraid the yellowing is a normal occurrence with polyester resin, although I don’t usually see this right away. You might try adding less catalyst. The amount you need depends on the thickness of the casting.

  75. @Sandy, I would think so, but can’t be absolutely sure since I’m not a chemist. I would suggest checking directly with your resin manufacturer to be positive.

  76. Hi Katherine~I make replica foods for museums and historic houses, and have long used museum-safe materials like air-dry clays, papier mache, acrylic paints, etc., due to concerns about off-gassing and potential damage to period pieces. Having recently used polyurethane resins for an outdoor food display, I was relieved to see your comment that, once cured, resin is inert. I cast small fish in resin. Once thoroughly cured, they were sealed with an acrylic sealer; painted and shaded with acrylic paints; then given another final coat of acrylic sealer. Do you think encapsulating cast/cured resin pieces in museum-safe acrylic sealers should nullify curatorial concerns about off-gassing? Many thanks.

  77. I’ve been using epoxy over wood tables but it doesn’t seem to get hard enough. I have an extremely large tree that I am planning to cut up horizontally into round stump cuts….where you can see all the rings….. and need the best, hardest, cheapest, product available to cover them. Any suggestions?
    I am on facebook Kelly Palmer, {the Tamaha giant} in case you want to see pictures of what I am doing.

  78. Do you mind if I quote a couple of your posts as long as I prodvie credit and sources back to your site?My blog site is in the exact same area of interest as yours and my visitorswould genuinely benefit from some of the information youprodvie here. Please let me know if this ok with you.Regards!

  79. Hi Katherine,

    I’m using Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy, however I noticed that it has a slight yellow tinge to it. Would you have any recommendations for epoxy resins that dry completely colourless? Thanks!

  80. @Apple, if you are pouring the resin into molds, I would suggest the Resin Obsession super clear resin. It dries crystal clear. No yellow!

  81. Hi Katherine,

    I started using Ice resin for my first resin projects.

    I have made two rings in a silicone mould however, I embedded some string into it and some of the string is slightly sticking out and on the other one, the string has left the corner without some resin in it.

    I am wondering can I add more resin to it once it has cured to cover up these pieces and then sand it back?

  82. I’m a complete novice but making a project for my son’s school auction. I need to set bottle caps in a pattern in a wood frame. What do you suggest? Thanks!

  83. @Leslie, if you just want the bottle caps to be a decoration, I would suggest gluing them on instead of trying to set them in resin.

  84. Hi Katherine,
    So excited to find your blog!! It’s great you willing share your knowledge & experience so freely. THANK YOU x
    I’m brand spanking new to the use of resin.
    My project is to use fabric to cover a timber table then cover in resin to seal, protect & preserve the fabric.
    Best adhesive adhere fabric to table & best clear resin to use on top please?

  85. Hi Katherine, thanx a lot for your very informative article, Im gonna fill a big gap between two 1 metere long logs with resin, to form a table!!! What do you suggest؟! And i also have to mold it too.
    Thanx for your helps.

  86. @Michelle, If you are looking for an epoxy, then I would suggest using the Resin Obsession super clear resin. Otherwise, if you are experienced with resin, a polyester would be a good choice here as well.

  87. Hi Katherine,
    I will gladly use the Resin Obsession but is it still considered a soft resin like easycast? Even though my coasters look great I can’t see myself giving them or selling them to someone if the first time they use it it’s going to get indentations. Above there was mention of a resin sealer spray, do you think if I spray that on the coaster before the first use it will solve my problem and make it a harder dent free surface?

  88. Hi everyone,
    Katherine is the only person I have noticed to explain that easycast is a soft resin that if you try you can easily dent a cured piece with your fingernail. That being said I’m confused as to why most people say it is great for coasters. My coasters look amazing but once I set a glass on it it leaves dents. It’s got me very discouraged because I really like making them. But I don’t like that the dent. PLESE HELP!!!

  89. @Michelle, the Resin Obsession super clear resin cures much harder than the Easy Cast epoxy resin. I have used it for coasters and have been very happy with the results. The resin gloss sealer spray will give you a final glossy finish, but won’t harden the resin.

  90. Hey Katherine, I will be making a laptop desk made out of plywood. I will have pictures, paint, maybe some wood letters on the surface. It will have the weight of a laptop on quite often and I would like it to be very clear. What would be the best resin to use?

  91. Hi Katherine I’m a beginner and would like to use resin to cover small wooden laser cut earrings, I would like a dome shape for the resin with limited application. What would be the best resin to use in this instance? Thank you

  92. Dear Katherine,
    I am a beginner! I would like to take jagged pieces of glass and embed them onto a framed window pane. Would you recommend that I first apply a light coat of epoxy and then embed my pieces of glass (hoping this will hold the pieces in place), allow to cure. Then finish window pane with final coat of epoxy? If you feel this is correct, can you share with me the best epoxy to use that will be easiest to use and will dry the clearest with no color. It will be hung will sunlight will be shining through! Thank you for your expertise!

  93. Hi there, I am completely new to resin, I’m wanting to make some keyrings trapping photographs inside, how do i make a hole at the top of a rectangular peice for the split ring to go through? is there a special mold or do i drill?

    Many thanks!!

  94. hi there could please give me some advice on sealing porcleain and ceramics? I’m cutting up old cups and plates for jewellery and the cut pieces being porous are staining easily when worn . I had tried a crystal clear epoxy but found it too soft and tended to get dirty . Obviously I’m not using a mold and need more of a brush on sealant . Thanks heaps in advance 🙂

  95. Hi! I hand paint lazer cut shapes for earring making & I would like to know is there a resin I can use for glazing. I tried Mod Podge, but it doesn’t give me the thick glossy look I’m looking for. Also, if I pour the resin onto the earrings, how can I keep it from running over to the back of the earring? Thanks in advance!

  96. Hi Katherine, it seems like your the wonder woman of resin and I couldn’t find any reference of people covering CD mosaics with resin so I thought I’d ask the resin guru 🙂
    I’m covering a flat table with cut up cds and want a hard protective coating that is clear enough for the cd’s to catch the light in the same way. I tried just a spray varnish but this compromised the shine. The resin also needs to not interfere with the shiny coating as I have learnt grout can (this is my second attempt at this project, I only got up to the grout last time). I think I have narrowed it down to Enviro-tex lite pour on or easy clear cast epoxy but haven’t ruled out Hiflex EasyFlow 60 Polyurethane Liquid Plastic Casting Resin. So…
    1) Which, if any would you recommend for a beginner and an under 1cm deep covering and
    2) how would you recommend I go about making a mould around the edges to keep the resin in while it dries? (I read the above where you mentioned a doming resin however I have been unable to find any at a reasonable price) and
    3) should I use grout with this or would none be better? I don’t mind either look so it’s whatever will work best. 🙂 thank you in advance!

  97. Firehouse kitchen table made of stained plywood with a rounded edge, vinyl department patch adhered to top then coated with resin is the goal…the table is used hard with hot pots regularly set directly on it. Unsure how to treat the wood surface prior to resin as it has already been stained several times. Also unsure of the best adhesive to use for the vinyl decal on the wood prior to epoxy. And then trying to determine the best epoxy/resin. Huge project that we never dreamed would be this hard when it first started out. Your site is the most informative I have found anywhere. Help?!

  98. Hi Katherine,
    I’m so glad I found your page. I hope you can help me with a problem…I have been using a two part epoxy called bio clear 810. I do pours of about 1/4 inch or more where I layer them and paint acrylic in between to create abstract paintings with depth. I have a crab coat that I pour on top as an ultra v protectant to prevent yellowing. I am however still not happy with the clarity. It tends to muddle the under paintings and still yellows a little. I do between 3 to 5 layers. In your experience what is the clearest product I could use for this? thank you so much for any advice you could give -Tracey

  99. Hi Katherine,
    So much thanks to you for running this forum, and sharing your expertise!
    I carve jewelry, mostly rings, out of wood. I usually carve tiny settings in them and set semi precious stones using a glue adhesive epoxy. Some of the stones are probably very porous material, and some also break easily. I’m wondering if painting a layer or two of epoxy resin with a brush over these stones will give them a little more strength.
    Also, can I do the same on the wood rings themselves?
    And if I attach the coated stones to the coated wood while still wet, will they stick well enough to each other as to not fall apart? Or should I coat both with resin..let cure, and then just use epoxy glue to adhere them together? I have no experience with epoxy resin, and am a little worried that resin might interrupt the way that light catches the stones and crystals. Thank you for any advice you can give. Much appreciated!

  100. Hello!
    It’s so great to see someone who takes the time to respond to questions!
    So as a beginner, I have a few questions. I’m making a large project in which I would like to use resin in three different parts. I’m making my mailbox.
    In the first, I have cast iron number pieces that I would like to add colored resin to the inside with purple ink (they are like ivy and don’t have a solid middle and so by adding a colored middle it would make them easier to see). I would need it to dry hard, be uv resistant and have a transparancy.

    The second, I am making my mailbox out of stained glass. I’d like to coat it in a doming, crystal clear uv proof, non scratching hard resin so as to protect it more.

    And the third I saw online (as you may have) that one table that was made with photoluminescent glow powder poured I to the natural holes? Well I would like to take a wood board, carve my last name into it and pour the resin mix into that.

    The big wuestions is if their is a resin I could use for all of these projects or if I would have to get different resins for each? And which polyurethane resin would you recommend? I plan to do these in my garage with the door open and during a dry day (I live in Pennsylvania).
    Thanks so much!

  101. You can paint the stones with epoxy, but in my opinion, I do think it will affect the light refraction of the stones. You can use the wet epoxy as a glue (or glue the wet parts together). It will adhere parts well.

  102. Very useful info thankyou.

    Would Epoxy Resin therefore be more suitable for bubble top decals for cars? or would the epoxy be too soft still once cured? I have some decals here and I think they are epoxy as they are quite flexible.

    Also where should I be looking to purchase the right resin for doming automotive decals? any advice would be greatly appreciated. 🙂

  103. Thank you, I tried and contacted smooth-on after looking through their site but they said their products don’t dome and wouldn’t work for what I want to do. Thank you though! I’ll just keep looking:)

  104. Hello, where I am at, many of the resin’s are unavailable such as the actual casting resin, the only resins I have access to are resins found in home depot, such as parks super gloss resin, or one of the quick setting epoxy resins that are mainly used for bonding, am I able to use the parks super gloss or the quick setting epoxy resin to make little beads/casts from molds? Or is the super gloss only good for “glossing”, and the quick set wouldn’t set right/ or get stuck to the silicon mold?

  105. @Amy, I wouldn’t expect those resins to work well. They are meant to be used as adhesives and tend to mix very thick.

  106. Hi Katherine I was wondering could you help I am doing an Art project I want to finish my canvas works with epoxy resin which I am finding hard to get at short notice.Would it be on to use polyester resin ?

  107. @Cass, no, I would not recommend a polyester resin. The surface exposed to air remains sticky and would require sanding.

  108. Hey Katherine,

    I am looking to make a larger mold of a traditional water jug (half gallon) and want to fill the inside with nuts to make it look like the nuts suspended in water. That being said I want it to be as clear as possible just like water. Would you recommend a polyester resin or epoxy resin for this? Also since it is such a large object I am worried about cracking and how stable the resin will be once it fills the handle. Would you suggest pouring all at once or in layers to help minimize this? Any other tips you have for pouring larger molds please let me know! Thanks for your help!

  109. @Shawn, With a casting that large, I would suggest going ‘inexpensive’. You are going to have challenges regardless of the resin you use. You will have to pour in layers because the amount of heat a casting that large and thick poured at once will be a lot. You may need to consider pressure or vacuum casting to make sure your casting(s) come out bubble free.

  110. Hi Katherine,

    I am looking to cast some paper sculptures, ranging from 10 cm by 10 cm to chair size, and wondered what the best and most economical way would be to do this. I wouldn’t mind it cracking and causing bubbles as it would give a more interesting effect and I can always recast to solidify the cracks I think. Starting with the 10 by 10 what would be the best way to make a cheap cube mold and the best epoxy or polyester Resin to use that is transparent and hard? Thanks 🙂

  111. I am looking to make 1″x1″ trinkets. I plan on painting them with acrylic paint so I assume I would use white resin? Which resin would be best if I need a hard and sturdy product? And what should I use to protect the paint from chipping from wear? Thanks so much!

  112. Hi Katherine,

    I have a fish skeleton that I would like to cast and frame to put on a wall. The skeleton is about 8 inches long and 4 inches tall and it’s about an inch in thickness. What would be the best product should I use so it doesn’t damage the bones? Or is this even possible? I appreciate your help! Thanks!

    1. Hi Tina, do you have a frame to put the fish in? A casting that large is going to be heavy, so I’m wondering what you have for your frame. I can then make some suggestions.

      1. Hi Katherine,

        I bought a plastic box frame from the craft store that is 8″x10″. The problem with that is that I’m not sure if it’s deep enough. The fish is about 3/4″ thick and the box frame is only about an inch thick so that wouldn’t leave much room. I have another plastic box that I can cut the sides down so that it will be deep enough if I need to and it’s about the same dimensions, if that makes sense. I’m going to make the actual frame out of some barn wood.

  113. Greetings! I am writing from Brasil to kindly ask for help: I am trying to make a marble dust surface finishing to cover the surface of an open air art sculpture made of concrete plates. The idea is to apply a thick layer of marble dust pre-mixed with epoxi resin, spreading it over the concrete plates surface, and once the resin is cured and dry, to grind it and polish. The tricky thing is that when i mix the marble dust with resin, the marble dust turns grey. I have been using titanium dioxide powder (white pigment) to make it white again, but i feel it comes out less natural then if i was able to preserve the marble dust natural color. I am making several tests trying to make the powder impermeable before mixing it with resin. My impression is that the reason the marble dust turns out darker (more grey than white) it´s because it gets ‘wet’-like, soaked in resin, just like beach sand turns darker when wet. Please help me figure this out, how can i preserve the white tone of the original marble dust when mixing it with resin? I am currently using 40 grain of marble dust mixed with a less thick powder like grain. the idea is that it will shine in the sun the most possible, without using the white pigment (titanium dioxide), preserving the white from the marble grain and dust when mixed with resin. Sorry for the long explanation and thank you tons in advance for the attention. Best, Marcello

    1. Hi Marcello, yes, you are correct in that the dust is turning grey because it is getting wet. The best suggestion I can give you is to try a powder additive specifically designed for resin. We have several powder colorants in our shop that may be of help. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants/powder Unfortunately, I don’t have a good way to help you keep the marble dust ‘dry’ enough so that it looks good when mixed with resin.

      1. Hi Katherine, appreciate your reply.

        I noticed writen where it described the diferences between types of resin, that the “Epoxy resin won’t withstand the heat produced by a polishing wheel and will turn cloudy on the surface”.

        What if i use a wet poIisher, would that permit me to reach the high gloss with epoxy resin and marble dust? I was figuring the water would keep the temperature lower and not afect the resin..


        1. I don’t know. I’ve only ever used a wet polisher when I’m making my own cabochons from minerals, stones and such. It would be worth a try, but make sure the resin is very hard and fully cured first. If you give it a try, let me know how it goes.

  114. Could anyone please let me know if epoxy resin will turn yellow with time or UV exposure? I’m a beginner to resin and I have no idea about this. Besides, how many layers does a project require? I mean, is a project made of resin enough or does it always need a coating resin? Please help me.
    Thank you so much

    1. All resins will eventually yellow with UV light exposure. Some have additives to slow down this process so that it takes years instead of months. As for your project, one layer should do it. You shouldn’t need an extra coating unless you want it to be very shiny.

  115. Hey there, hopefully you are still answering questions here!
    I’d love to know what resin you would recommend for me to make things like this for my ears, http://i.imgur.com/9wxxg49.png
    I will be pouring the resin into steel tunnels. I am hoping to be able to put lots of different things in the resin, like dried flowers, crushed opal shards, solvent resistant glitter, metals etc.
    Thank you so much for your time 🙂

      1. Thank you!
        Yeah, I will be pouring it into and leaving it inside of the steel eyelets so that it doesn’t touch any skin.

  116. Katherine, you seem so full of knowledge on this subject that I can’t help but ask you about something I’m trying to work on! I’m a beginner with all of this and was wondering what would be the best epoxy to use to make a cake plate? I plan on putting candy throughout it and just want it to come out as clear and sturdy as possible! – Hope to hear back. I’d love your input! Thank you so much!
    *I also have two different molds for it. One being silicone and the other is a thinner plastic

  117. Hi Katheirne,
    I’m a beginner when it comes with using resin and like any beginner I’ve been encountering so bumps along the way. I’m currently using the easy cast resin with silicon bangle molds. When I take the bangle out after 24hours the top is clear as glass but the sides are a frosted look. I like the look for some jewelry but would love to make an item that is like glass all around. What is your advice for making the whole product crystal clear?

    Thank you 🙂

    1. What template did you use to make your silicone bangle mold? The silicone will pick up the surface of your template. If the template had a frosty look, so will subsequent castings from a mold made from that template.

      1. It seems like it’s the mold since the sides are not fully clear. Do you have a recommendation of what brand of mold I should use to get that glass look?

  118. Hi katerine
    Im trying to cast some pictures and pennies within a small panel door that has a recess of about 1ft x 2ft and a thickness of about 4-5 mm what would be a good water clear resin to use?
    I did try using poly craft slow set polyurethane water clear casting resin but after it all going really well i left it to cure over night to find large raised bubbles had formed, i live in the UK so humidity is high so im guessing that was the cause also i wasnt sure if i need to do a sealant coat first of some sort (its fatory paint finished MDF)
    Any advice would be appreciated
    Thank you

    1. Hi katherine, thank you
      Do you have any advice for suspending photos in 5mm cast
      I was thinking of doing a 3mm base layer then 2mm over the photo but im struggling to find definitive answers on how to go about it and i see you are definitely a resin guru, would the base layer need to fully cure so as to sick the photos down before the second layer?

  119. I am making up a Sea Glass and Sea Shell grouping in a OLD Printers Tray. The backing on the tray is fiberboard and I want to fill each section with some beach pebbles. I would like to know what you think would be the best way to adhere them to each section…..glue them in individually …use resin or what would you suggest?

    1. I would probably glue them in. The resin is going to seep through the fiberboard and make it look waterstained in those areas.

  120. I’m making fairy wings that are thin, I’ve made them with epoxy resin and they are flexible. I want hard wings that don’t bend that are clear but where i can add pigments if i want. what should i use?

  121. Hi Katherine,
    Great website! Do you think this would work on brass
    porch lights? I don’t have a porch so they really take a
    I heard that the latest thing to protect brass is acrylic
    urethane… but I like the idea that resin is so thick. Is this a
    crazy idea or do you think it would hold up okay under the weather and very hot Texas summers?

    Really appreciate any advice!

    1. You would need to use a resin designed for outdoor use. An industrial marine resin would be my choice for a project like this.

  122. Hi
    I hope someone can help me . I make inlay and I used deyed wood to my project.. now I want use black polyster resin or proxy on my project. I want to know does polyster resin or proxy effect on dyed wood . disapper the stain from woood If I use polyster resin on my project ?

    1. I wouldn’t expect it to change the dyed effect of the wood, but I am concerned whether or not the wood treatment would affect the resin’s ability to stick to it.

  123. Hello, I have an acrylic container in which I am displaying sand samples from all over the world. Each compartment of the container holds about 2 cups volume, and each compartment is about 2/3 full of sand. I would like to add clear resin to the top to ‘seal’ the sand in each compartment to prevent so I won’t have spillage or mixing of the sands. I think I’ll need about 2.5×2.5×1 inch volume of resin to top off each compartment. What would you suggest? I’m a newbie and not really prone to detail work….but if need be, I can employ my meticulous engineering husband to the task.

  124. Good morning. Can i use easy cast epoxy resin at the bottom of a coffee cup? Will it be safe to drink from? I want to draw a picture and have it be seen at the bottom of the cup when you need a refill. ;).


    1. The manufacturer has not tested the resin at that temperature. Unfortunately, they cannot recommend it for that purpose.

    1. HI Sara, I would suggest dipping it in resin and allowing it to cure first. That will seal any air in or out. Once it is cured, use it as you would any other inclusion in your resin.

  125. I want to make resin covered leaf ornaments and bowls but I’m not sure what resin to use. Where I live is dry and cold in the winter but humid in the summer and I currently don’t have a work space (Except my balcony) as I’m in an apartment. Any recommendations?

  126. Help! I was trying to buff a gloss onto a 1 1/2″ circle of resin. I was just given a dremel mototool. When I put the cloth circle to the resin it immediately scraped a large scuff onto the top of the piece! Can it be buffed out with sandpaper? Or would coating it with more resin help? I’m a newbie and I’m lost!

    1. Hi Renee, sorry to hear you are having problems. How big is the scuff? The reason I ask is that recoating with another layer of resin would be easiest, but if the scuff is coarse, the resin won’t completely mask the scratch. Instead of looking smooth and glossy, it will look a little frosted underneath. Without seeing your scratch, I would try to sand it down, finishing with (at least) a 1000 grit paper or higher. Then, you can recover with resin.

  127. Hi! I am making jewelry and it seems like the polyester resin is reacting with the metal jewelry bezel and turning some of the edges green. Is there any way to prevent this? I am also finding that it doesn’t fully set and the smell is horrible. Any other suggestions for a resin that sets clear and quickly that won’t react with metal?

  128. I want to fill a hollow 2 in. diameter glass sphere. The glass sphere does have an opening to allow for me to pour fluids into it. From what I’ve read on this page, it seems like the polyester would be the best. I’m worried that when it cures, the polyester will pull away from the glass sphere. I need something that will fill the space with a clear finish and not contract as it cures. Thoughts? Thank you!

    1. Hi Alex, based upon your comment, I think an epoxy would probably be better. Why were you considering a polyester resin?

  129. Miss katherine, how nice of you to respond to all these questions for so many years. Its obvious your very appreciated. My question has to do with large scale epoxy table casting molds, if not already asked prior. I noticed an italian company called Nucleo Studios that cast these solid beautiful epoxy tables with wood boards dipped into set up as legs. They call it wood fossil. Im going to attempt this art but id like to avoid costly mistakes. Now I noticed you mentioned epoxy cures soft in a large thick scale. Should i use polyester resin? An would it be wise to cast these 3in thick resin slabs in acrylic made molds with a release? What are good large scale mold making materials that epoxy nor poly will stick too after cure?

    1. If I were going to attempt this project, yes, I would use a polyester resin. If you were going to try casting them in an acrylic sided mold, you would definitely need to use mold release. Resin will stick to acrylic. Once cured, the epoxy and polyester resin shouldn’t stick to silicone.

      1. Thank you for the reassurance and not saying its impossible. Im going for it. I do know big companies have access to autoclavs an all types of advance equipment to cast large composites. I wanna find the limit of what one person can do from home without the fancy machines and without creating a chemical melt down disaster in ones garge. Ill check up.

  130. can i post my question regarding application of epoxy resin-hardener (2:1 ratio ) here.i very desperately need help / solution for problem -bubbles coming to surface 20/25 min after applying epoxy coat /may be surface tension .i don’t know what exactly my problem is. i am using localy manufacture and sold epoxy resin hardner. can i pasted some photos which will describe my problem in better way because i ma sort of newbe in using resin-hardener. can u tell me if the way i am using epoxy hardener-resin in correct way. i am making paintings/frame on 8 mm mdf board ,the size is 12×16 inc.. i applied wall primer first and after it dried i painted designs with instant coffee powder +water. after it dried i applied epoxy. i mixed resin and hardener in 2:1 ration for 10 min and after that i kept i aside for another 10 min. after that (after 15/20 min app.)i applied epoxy on my painting. for 20/ 25 min app. there was no problem. the epoxy cured and surface is smmoth the gloss is perfect but the frame /painting held infront of i could see pits under smooth surface making my frame look horrible.

    1. It may be that the resin is reacting with something on the surface of your painting. I would suggest sealing the entire piece with a layer of an acrylic based spray first.

      1. when should i use spray? after painting designs (with coffee + water) of after? i don’t know anything about it.

  131. will butane torch/propane torch eliminate bubbles( of all size) in epoxy (resin+hardener )coat on 8mm mdf board?which is safer to use for first time user like me ?

  132. Hi Miss Katherine! I am so excited about finding this forum. I have been working on a round table for my mom for longer that I care to admit. I have sanded it, gel stained it, sanded it again bc gel stain streaks, polyurethane unsuccessfully, stripped all of that off…got back to square one. (i guess) then went through the whole 2 parts of epoxy resin on top of table 3 , yes 3 separate times. Looked beautiful except of the dust particles and a couple of mosquitoes that dipped into also. (yay!) So I began wet sanding it after it cured for a couple of weeks. Then I applied appropriately an ultimate compound and ultimate polish both by meguiar’s with an orbital sander. Didn’t give me shine like I wanted plus had more swirl marks which ironically is suppose to help with those. Today I have wet sanded with a little soapy water with 800 grit, cleaned, 1200 grit, cleaned, and 1500 grit. The epoxy is very smooth an free from any blemishes at this time. I’m at wits end and am thinking about putting minwax paste finishing wax over it. Will that work to give me a polished not cloudy overall look? Or do you recommend anything different to go over the epoxy. Or should I just put this to the curb and buy my mom a new table?? Thanks for any info from anyone! I really appreciate reading all of the FAQs!

    1. Assuming you have a nice, smooth finish from the 1500 grit sandpaper, one more layer of resin should give it a glossy finish. To keep dust particles, etc. out of it while it is curing, you need to find a way to cover it while the resin is still wet. How big is the table?

      1. for frames /paintings..
        i am using 8 mm mdf board. i earlier tried to coat it epoxy resin+hardener. but even after 2nd coat there were bubbles+pits on frames i have made. the resin i am using is thick (like honey). i kept the resin and hardener bottles in hot water before mixing . but by the time i started to apply 1st coat,the mix had started getting thick once again. i am thinking of using some other brand of epoxy. i came across other set of epoxy resin+hardener at shop. the epoxy in this set was thin almost like water . so i wanted to know whether i should try thin epoxy resin+hardener.

        1. For what you are doing, you will need a ‘thicker’ resin because you need the extra surface tension to let the resin dome on top of your painting. It sounds like you may need a resin with a longer pot time, which will give you more time after mixing to get it onto your painting.

  133. Thank you!
    I’ve been looking for a durable coating (needs to be a bit flexible too) for shrink plastic, both drawn and printed… jewelry. Spray coatings sometimes spit a little thicker, making sharpie pen run ( can'[t depend on the “light” coating.. and I don’t have an “outdoors” for spraying most days, means I can’t finish at night), brush on coating seem to cause even more running of inks or pens. I’ve been using nail gel for some, but, not as crisp looking of a coating and more work and, if the item gets wet, moisture seeps between the gel coating and the plastic, bend it too much and it separates (does not really seal to the plastic)… it seems like mixing small amounts of resin might be annoying, but… would it solve some of the other problems?

      1. I can’t reheat it… I shape t hem while warm and the layer there looks very thick, I need a thin coat. Maybe I’m stuck with spray on…

  134. i am coating my 8mm mdf board frame/paintings with epoxy coat. the resin i am using is thick like honey. i mixed resin and hardener for 5 min slowly. kept it aside for 5 min. but the mix was cold even after 10 min.is it due to weather (winter season temp 12-18 degree c) or something else?

    1. Yes. I would suggest warming the bottles in a warm water bath for 5 minutes or so before using in cold temperatures. You can also try using a space heater for your area.

    1. It could be where the resin started to cure and a bubble finally popped. The resin may not have been liquid enough to fill in the void.

  135. will thin resin help me ?
    the surface is smooth,prefect gloss, but if frame held in front of light anyone can see pits.

    1. Thin resin isn’t going to stay on the surface very well. I would suggest mixing smaller batches of resin. It may be that you are trying to use too large a quantity for the amount of pot time the resin has.

  136. The colors you describe aren’t necessarily unusual. When you mix them together, they should go clear. If the resin is dark yellow, it may be old. I’ve never heard of ‘glass epoxy resin’ however.

  137. Hi!

    I have been trying my hand in resin jewelry, as it is easier to do at home away from the studio where I do metal work. I am working on making some resin ring designs using molds, but would like to know what the best kind of resin is to use for SOLID bracelets, rings, etc. I don’t think the alumilite I have been using for pendants will cut it, as it melts with body heat.



      1. Hi Katherine,

        I have been using the Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast thus far. I have found that if I wear the rings I created, they end up warping from my body heat!


  138. I want to make roofing sheet used natural fiber. so i thought the best resin type is polyester resin. Is that correct? Can you help me please

    1. I don’t have experience using resin for that industrial a purpose. I’m afraid I can’t offer you any advice.

  139. Hi Katherine,
    I am wanting to make mosaic stained glass pictures with tumbled glass. I am using picture frames with the glass that came with the frame and have been gluing the pieces to the glass using E6000 glue. Then I want to use a resin to fill the gaps between the glass pieces. However I do not know which type or make of Resin to use. Please, please can you help me with this as I want to get going as soon as possible. Many thanks. If you could email me that would be great. I very much look forward to hearing from you.

        1. For the grouting I would put the mixed resin in a squeezy bottle with a narrow tip then apply the resin around the pieces of glass. There will also be areas in the same piece which will be painted onthe glass which will need coating too.

  140. Iam fresh for resin. While mixing resin and hardner the mixture is going in yellow colour. And after dry also it is not good and shining to see. How can I overcome this. Please advice me

  141. Hi all, looks like this might be the place to answer my questions three (after looking all over online) 🙂

    I’m building a guitar and want to make the inlay dots and headstock logo look like shiny rubies. After reading this FAQ I reckon polyester resin is the one for me as it will dry hard, now…
    1) If I pour the resin into the holes for the dots etc will it adhere to the wood, do I have to worry about it seeping into the wood? Or is there a chance the dots could fall out?
    2) Will I be able to sand it down (even with very fine sandpaper) after it sets to make sure it is exactly level with the fretboard?
    3) After sanding it level I then apply a thin coat of nitrocellulose lacquer over the whole guitar in order to seal the paint and protect the wood, is this going to affect the resin at all (or is the resin going to affect the lacquer?

    Any advice or help with these questions would be gratefully received, thank you

    1. Yes, the resin will adhere to the wood, but I don’t know whether or not the surrounding wood will show ‘water’ stains. The dots shouldn’t fall out, but I would certainly try a test piece first. Yes, the resin can be sanded after curing. I don’t have any experience using nitrocellulose lacquer over cured resin. I would suggest checking with the manufacturers of the specific resins you want to use for their advice.

  142. Dear Katherine,
    we would like to use resin to make a new counter for a bar (shaped in an L) from one piece to put on their existing pedestal and the masters don’t know how to do it; the mold and procedure so the question is –> What should the mold be from to make the counter on the floor lets say, and be able to take it out of the mold in one piece when it dries and put it on the pedestal??
    Or if its possible to make it on top of the existing pedestal if we protect the under layers, how to achieve that ?
    Also important is that we would like to make the counter from black resin, minimum/medium thickness possible to be nice straight and with no bumps…..
    Could epoxy floor or wall resin be used for that case too?
    Is it possible & how ;)?
    Thankyou in advance you would save us

    1. Thank you very much for answering so fast… but our idea was to pour it all out of resin a cm,2 or more if suggested for floors because wood doesnt match nicely with the rest of it and needed advice from what material to make a mold for something so big.. The counter is shaped in an L and is 300×150 cm, and Ive got an advise so far that the mold/frame can be made of shiny wood if we put a separator material – how its called (dont know the right name but they should know in store) but as we have a round angle in the L it cannot be wood but plexiglass – its our other option because it can bend nicely… Do u think thats the best/ or ok solution if we want to have it in one big piece of epoxy ?
      Thanks again!

  143. Also, forgot this, is resin a durable enough material for frequent usage in a bar, so drinks and food all day n nite ? Does it show signs of wear after a while ?

    1. In my opinion, this resin is durable enough for a coating for a bar top with regular use. You may need to recoat it once a year or so to keep it looking new.

  144. The white Amazing(brand) Resin that sets in 10 minutes..and cures white..
    Do you use a catalyst with it?
    Also, can you add color to the mix?

  145. Hi guys wonder can anyone help? I have a ring blank I want to fill with resin, it has a hole in it it was a ring blank for a cabochon. Is there anything I could cut out and set over the hole that is see though and that will stay out once the resin sets! Thanks

  146. What kind of plastic is Castin Craft Epoxy Resin? I’m looking to get scratches out of my project and I don’t know what type of plastic it is.

  147. I’m not sure I understand your question. Do you have a link to an example of what you are trying to create?

  148. Hi Katherine –

    I’m wondering if you have suggestions for glues that would affix hardened polyester resin casts to acrylic plastic bases — how best to glue polyester resin to other surfaces, really. I have deep cast a few items in polyester resin, and now I want to affix the cast to the base of a plastic display case. I am trying E6000, but it doesn’t really seem to want to set or glue hard. Is there another good glue option? One that might dry clear? Many many thanks in advance!

    1. I would try mixing up an epoxy resin to act as your glue. If your glue area is hidden, a five minute epoxy is fine. If your glue area is more visible, I would suggest a jewelry quality resin since it will yellow more slowly than the industrial kinds.

  149. I am making a table top 2’x8′. I have about a 1/2″ lip around the sides and I have filled it with sand, shells, tiles for a checkerboard and family photos that have been glued down. This table is going to be used outside and uncovered. What would be the best type of resin to use? I think if I use the epoxy it will be about 5 gallons…not sure how much the Polyester resin would require me to need if that is better suggested. Please help before I purchase as I know its going to be pricey and want to do it right the first time.

  150. I am making suncatchers and am using a clear gloss to cover them but am having a hard time getting it smooth. What do you recommend? Also I am having a really hard time finding black pens for outlining!

  151. I am coating RTIC cups and the envirotex leave little baby bubbles. Any suggestions on how to get rid of the bubbles or what to use instead.


  152. Sir. I saw your article.
    I was so surprised your skill and ability.
    And i respecting you.
    I Trying to real carbon fiber epoxy resin task.
    (car indoor material.. for example dashboard.. )
    How product(epoxy resin) is recommended for this task?
    Thanks your help.

    1. I’m afraid I don’t have any experience with that type of use for resin and cannot make a recommendation.

  153. Hi Katherine,

    What a wonderful site! I’m hoping to make some lamp bases and was wondering if The Polyester Resin would be the best way to go? I am hoping to create a fractured effect and wasn’t sure what would be the best way to achieve these results. Could you please advise a way that would achieve a consistent fracture throughout the lamp base.

    Kindest Regards,


  154. Hi Katherine,
    I read through as many of the comments as possible hoping to find a similar project but gave up after the first 100. I have a square wooden shelf “box” with no back or front. My intention is to secure the box on to a flat surface, pour a shallow pool of resin (to make a clear front). Once that is dry I’m going to lay sea glass on the resin front and then pour resin over all the glass. Once that is complete I’m going to attach a light source behind the glass and hang it on the wall.

    #1) Recommendations for resin?
    #2) What surface/ preparation should I use to secure the box to the flat surface so that I can peel it away once it’s dried.

    I hope this all made sense…

  155. A couple questions:

    1) I purchased some 20MM Round Bezel Cufflinks and Tie Clips Blanks. If I want to use custom images to make my own Cufflinks sets, would you recommend: A) Glass Cabochons, B) Epoxy Ice Resin or C) Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy Resin?

    I’d like to use Glass Cabochons as I have heard that they are less likely to scratch/scuff, but I’ve read it is hard to find round bezel blanks and glass cabochons that fit well together consistently (even when listed as the same size). I am a perfectionist, so this sounds less than ideal.

    2) I have read that sealing the images helps prevent potential issues. If I wanted to seal coat the images prior to adhering them to the metal blanks, would you recommend: A) Mod Podge, B) Diamond Glaze or C) Glossy Accents?
    > Once dry, will all of these product options allow me to re-apply and secure the image to the metal blanks without incident?
    > Once dry, will any of these product options react negatively when the metal blanks are filled with epoxy resin?

    Thanks in advance for your help answering these questions and saving me some time, hassle and money!

    1. For high contact pieces such as cuff links, glass cabochons may work better since they are less likely to scratch or show damage. If you wanted to work with a resin, the Ice resin will cure harder than the Easy Cast resin.

      I use Mod Podge to seal my images, but any clear drying glue should work. Seal the image, then seal it again to the bottom of your bezel. Make sure everything is thoroughly dry (12 hours or more) before pouring the resin.

      1. Katherine,

        If the round bezel is too high and leaves a rim around the edge with glass cabochons, would it make sense to fill the blank halfway with resin, then secure the glass cabochons with it shortly thereafter?

        I’d like to think this would seal the Cufflinks and help disguise any unevenness that might exist around the edge.

        1. Sounds like a lot of extra work. Instead, I would use a bezel pusher (like you are setting gemstones) to push the bezel around the glass cabochon.

  156. Hi, I was wondering if there is any difference between the epoxy resin that you mentioned, and the epoxy adhesive usually sold at hardware stores, such as the Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy glue. Can they be substituted for one another?

    1. It depends on what you want to accomplish. If crystal clear results are important, then you want to go with one of the resins mentioned. Hardware store epoxies tend to cure amber and will amber faster over time.

      1. I see, I was actually intending to add a black opaque pigment to the epoxy. Would the result still be similar with hardware store epoxies as compared to the aforementioned resins?

          1. Another question, is there a standard proportion of pigment to be added to the resin? And does the amount of hardener need to be adjusted accordingly or does it remain the same?

          2. Try to add as little as colorant as possible to achieve the desired effect. Every colorant is different in terms of the mixing directions. For example, when using the Resin Obsession pigments, you need to use extra hardener. For some other brands, that isn’t necessary. I would suggest investigating the specific brand and following their specific directions.

  157. Hey, Katherine. I was wondering if your resin bonds well with wood? I’m working on pendants that are half wood half resin and I have everything except the resin. I know West Systems bonds well to it, but I’m not exactly comfortable spending that much money on it due to its mixing procedure. Plus spending that much, I’d want to be able to use it with all resin pieces. And yours seems perfect for everything else I do. Thanks!

    1. I don’t have any personal experience with this, but I would expect it to do fine. There is minimal shrinkage, which is essential for bonding resin and wood.

  158. Long article.
    Can you use resin hardener in the epoxy resin?
    When do you use a 2:1 ratio? Which one is the 2 ratio?

    1. Hardener must be used with resin in order for it to cure. Follow the directions of the specific resin kit you want to use. It will tell you how much resin and how much hardener to use.

  159. I have a donut… a very special donut. I’m hoping to preserve it for my husband as a Christmas present. Paper weight or just a silly item for a shelf. I’ve read several food related posts and know I need to get the donut as dry as possible before starting but I was wondering if you know first how I should seal it and then which resin to use? Hoping you can help.

    1. I don’t think this will work well at all. It will be almost impossible for you to get it dry enough to cast in resin. The other problem is that the donut has a lot of trapped air that will come out later during the casting. My best suggestion would be to have someone recreate a donut for you out of polymer clay, then cast that donut into resin.

  160. I’d like to cast decorative frames for my small paintings (size of paintings are 3×4 inches to 6×8 inches) based off a mold made from a clay sculpt. I don’t care about it being clear as the designs I’m currently considering would be completely painted or gilded anyway. I have never cast resin before. It sounds like I should use an epoxy, but wondered if anyone has any advice as I consider my options (specific epoxy resins, or if I should choose something else instead)?

  161. Hi! Im absolutely amazed that after so many years you continue to respond to inquires! Thats awesome. Quick question. Im trying to make some jewelry and dont want my items to tarnish. I made a choker and the clamps i used started to tarnish after a couple wears. I tried to scroll through the comments to see if my question was answered by there are so many! Lol. Any recommendations?

    1. Are you referring to the silver tarnishing? I have used Renaissance Wax on pieces and been very happy with the results. Apply a light amount, buff dry with a soft cloth. It will keep the tarnish away. If the wearer washes the piece with soap and water or ends up using a polishing cloth on it, you will need to reapply the wax. You can also use the wax over cured resin as well. I started using it years ago when I didn’t want customers to ruin the resin finish trying to remove tarnish from the silver. Happy to help. 🙂

  162. Hi Katherine,
    I was just wondering if you have any suggestions for an epoxy resin that dries fairly firm and has very little fumes. I made some jewelry with Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy and it worked very well and there weren’t any noticeable fumes, but it bends very easily and I am worried about selling my jewelry. Also, can you drill wholes in resin? Thank you!

  163. hello.i was wondering how can i cast a piece of meat..fresh meat? is there any way of making a clear coating and drying some how ar are there any resins that can work with a dump surface like a steak let say… thanks !

  164. I have an art project where I am trying to preserve meats by painting layers of resin on all surfaces exposed to air. Ideally I would like it to be see through and to preserve the visual features of the meat as it decays.

  165. I am interested in making pen blanks using resin and wood. My plan was to get a silicone mold for the pen blanks, put some interesting wood pieces in the mold and then fill the gaps and holes with the resin to make a solid piece. Then turn the piece on the lathe to create pens.
    I have been reading about which resin to use and being a newbie who lives in Florida I think epoxy would be the one most likely to succeed as I don’t have a place with adequate ventilation and low humidity. My question is, will epoxy work? And if so, how should I finish the final turned piece so that it looks reasonably clear and shiny?
    I have used ICE resin for some experiments but now it’s time to buy more resin and I’m not sure what to get. Thanks

      1. Thanks for such a quick response. Can you elaborate a little on why epoxy is not a good choice for turning? Is it too brittle? Is it too hard to polish? Since I’m new to resin work I’m trying to learn the pros and cons to the different types of products. Unfortunately since I live in Florida and don’t have a room I can seal off I probably can’t use polyurethane except for a couple months in winter 🙁 Are there any other alternatives?

        1. Epoxy does not do well with the heat and friction from saws and lathes. It will get crumbly and or melt from the heat. Being in Florida, I also understand your concerns about successfully using a polyurethane. You can try a polyester resin (it is less moisture sensitive) but can be a bit fussier to work with. This blog article should answer a few more questions for you: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/polyester-casting-resin/

  166. Hello, I want to make a figure model but finding epoxy resin is hard here, can I use epoxy paint (the product info said that it is basically made from epoxy resin and hardener) to make a model?

  167. i want to use a vinyl sticker (picture) and cast/stick it on a cement slap that i want to use outside, which resin is the best to use.

  168. I’ve been making ponds in glass notices and I use the Clear Casting Polyurethane in the large purple can. I have polymer clay koi and turtles imbedded in it. It cures beautifully and looks like glass. But recently I’ve noticed that after a few months, the clay items have a “bubble” or air space around those clay items. Is this too strong for the polymer clay? Have you had a similar issue? Would you recommend a different resin? Thank you and I love reading your articles!

    1. Hi Lupe, thanks for the kind words! I would suggest sealing your clay items first. Then, before placing them in the resin, dip them in resin first. That will break the surface tension.

  169. Hi Katherine, I would really appreciate your help- I want to make a cube with dried flowers inside (about 5-7 inches tall).
    And I would use it as a lamp. So it has to be crystal clear, with no yellowing because of the light. What should I use?

  170. Hi! First thank you for all the awesome information and answering all these questions they have been time savers. I was wondering if you might have some in site on what I need to use. I have a pice of wood with an initial cut into it and I want to fill it with a resin. I plan to color the resin white so I don’t need a crystal clear color and hang it on a wall. What do you recommend I use? Also can I use acrylic paint to color the resin? I have seen people do this for epoxy painting. How to i get a flush(with the wood ) Finish? Sorry for all the questions but I greatly appreciate your help!

    1. Hi Jamie, a few questions before I make a recommendation. What is your experience with resin? What kind of wood finishing/sanding tools (if any) do you have to get the resin flush with the wood?

      1. Hi! No experience at all….lol As far as sanding….I have a hand sander and lot of experience with hand sanding….lol. I was thinking of putting the blue painters tape on the back to keep the resin from seeping out (hopefully). It’s the front of theveryone piece I worry about getting it at least semi level with the wood. Thanks for the reply!

          1. Yes, close the back with painters tape or a good quality masking tape. The resin won’t stick to that once it has cured. The Resin Obsession super clear resin would work well for this. You won’t need much — the 3 ounce kit should be plenty. https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/resin-obsession-super-clear-resin-3-oz-kit-jewelry-resin Fill the void as full as you can, then fill it with a few drops more. The resin will shrink a smidge when it cures and you want to try to have it above the wood a little bit since you want to sand it flat. Acrylic paints ‘should’ work with resin, but the problem is sometimes they have too much moisture and may cause curing problems. Colorants designed for resin are less likely to cause these problems. We have some here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants You can use your belt sander to sand it down once cured, but don’t use it too long. Epoxy resin does not like the heat and friction from a belt sander. Start with something coarse, then work it down as necessary to get the finish you want.

          2. Omg! Thank you so very much! I am making it as a gift for my sisters wedding and so didn’t want to screw it up! You are my new favorite person!

  171. My 1st time doing mosaic!
    I chose a wooden door with 2 panels that I put mosaic pottery pieces , glass rounds and an old stained glass window .
    then grouted it.
    we are using this as a table.
    So now I want to make it level .
    I am trying to figure out the best method to fill the area that will adhere to these different surfaces.
    I think I will have to seal it with a water based sealer then use epoxy resin..will it take to the glass surface o.k.?
    I do not want to sand the glass.
    thank you!

  172. Hello !

    I hand letter on agate slices and want to seal them to protect against water damage as well as make them hold up to a lot of handling. I’ve been using multiple coats of liquitwx varnish and it’s super water resistant but it can dent and scratch and I worry about oils from skin over time .. I have the pour on resin shown in the picture above and once I let it set it’s awesome! My problems – dust 🙁 tips on creating s dust free area ? I can deal with most of the bubbles using my blow dryer after 15 mins. But 2 tries and I keep getting dust and tiny hairs which is not ok for something I want to sell 🙁 does it need to ” breathe” to cure? Or can I put it in a plastic box and close the kid so nothing can get in and not touch it for 48 hours ?

    Is there a different epoxy / resin you would recommend for this type of project ? Thin layers would be awesome if possible..

  173. Hi! (Please pardon the long message, Im in need of a lot of information and thought you would be a great help)

    I recently got into crafting with resin, and decided to suspend objects in glass bottles with it. I have used EasyCast almost all of the time, and I believe I have tried Envirotex as well once or twice, but no matter what I do the glass bottles crack over time. They are very small bottles, and I do not seal the tops until they are fully cured (or perhaps theyre not if they are cracking? I just assume that after a few weeks they should be fully expanded and hardened). I have had some for months that go without cracking, but without fail they always do eventually, primarily around the base but on some they will also appear on the sides . What is the problem? I would love to continue to make them, and use bigger glass containers, but I fear the same will happen. I make sure to do my best to get rid of any air bubbles in case they affected it, but I get the same results. Should I just give up on trying to use the containers?

    Past this, I would love to use resin in molds as well for crafting and to make jewelry. Is EasyCast a good brand for this? Im looking for some resin that I will be able to safely craft in the house with, but will not cure too tacky.

    I also use Castin Craft dye to change the resin’s color. Is there any other ways to change the color of the resin without affecting the quality or hardness? I’ve heard mica pigment and oil paint is one way to go, any thoughts on those or other mediums?

    Thank you very much, I can’t tell you how long I’ve been searching for someone so knowledgeable.

    1. I have not had this problem when filling glass items with resin. Are the glass containers (filled with resin) used outside?

      EasyCast resin is not my first choice for molds. I prefer to use the Resin Obsession super clear resin as it is specifically designed for molds. It mixes in a thin viscosity, so bubbles are almost never a problem. You can find it here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession

      We have other colorants, liquid and powder, that can be used for resin here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants

      1. Dave

        Thanks for the response! Well they actually aren’t is the weird thing. I’ve kept them on a shelf in a room where they are not being hit with sunlight. The ones that lasted the longest were the ones I stored in a small box, and some have been fine for almost a year, but a few weeks after taking them out they cracked. How odd right? You see so many people doing this very same thing, and you would think that the EasyCast would not be as prone to cracking them if it is supposedly more tacky upon curing.

        Besides aesthetics, do the bubbles affect the resin pieces in any other way?

        Off topic however, if I were to layer the resin by putting half in a mold or object and topping it with another layer later, would it show a line where they meet? Someone once told me for this you also need to use less hardener with each layer, is this true? What is the reduction formula you would use?

        Thank you again.

        1. That is weird that it cracks. We have a similar discussion going on in our forum that may relate to your situation: https://www.resinobsession.com/forums/topic/glass-breaks-in-the-cold-with-resin-on-windows

          Bubbles in cured resin really aren’t a problem unless there are so many that it affects the structure of a casting. (That doesn’t sound like it applies here.)

          If you want to minimize the lines between resin layers, pour your next layer before the first has fully cured. Don’t adjust the amount of hardener added UNLESS you are working with a polyester resin. As you pour subsequent layers with that resin, the heat can be additive, so you use a little less hardener each time.

  174. Hi! I’m hoping you can help me, as I’m not having much luck finding answers elsewhere, and you’ve already helped me a bit! Thank you for warning me to the order issue with polyester resins!

    I’m new to resin and I’m looking for something that will go nicely over clay miniatures (2 inches and smaller) and small glass sun charms created with acrylic paints and embossing powders, but that also will not affect my asthma, which is very sensitive to chemicals – nail polish especially chokes me up! I’ve used Lisa Pavelka’s Magic-Glos uv resin before with no issues, but it’s so expensive! Is there a cheaper version of uv resin, or a type of epoxy that would be okay to use? Thank you for any advice!

  175. I have an oval porcelain pan and want to put a thick layer of clear coat 1/4″ thick on the bottom for holding water. Pan has chips; can this work. Pan has sentimental value.

  176. Hi Katherine,

    Do you know if it ok to coat cured epoxy resin with spray acrylic varnish? Or would it react/peel off?

    It is because I need to file a bit of the resin down and I want to spray it afterwards to make it shiny again. Thank you so much, Caroline

  177. Hi Katherine,
    I’d like to make a pebble dish soap for the first time and wondering if you could suggest the best type of resin for this? Also how much pebbles should i mix with the resin (what ratio) ?
    Thank you for your answer in advance

  178. Hi Katherine, what is the difference between Easy Cast and envirotx ? I’m find easy cast is quite a bit cheaper.

  179. Hi Katherine,

    I apologize if this question has already been answered but i didn’t see it. I want to make an item that will be in sections then screwed together with some electronics components inside them.

    I’m new to resin casting so have no idea of what the easiest materials or methods would be of doing something like this, or if they can even be done. I will have to make my own mold and would appreciate information on what to make that out of as well. So sorry about all the questions, i promise i won’t be asking you to assemble it too. LOL.

    Thanks for your very informational posts.

    1. Hi Sheila,

      We have a few articles in our mold making section to help you get started: https://www.resinobsession.com/category/molds-mold-making Once you have more mold, I suggest using the Resin Obsession super clear resin. It is designed for use in molds. It mixes crystal clear and if you are careful in mixing, bubbles are almost never a problem. You can find it in several sizes here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession

  180. Hi Katherine,
    Have a couple of questions.
    I have made a wood desk to wrap presents, fold clothes, do crafts, and paperwork on. I have used yardsticks glued to the top with liquid nails. The yardsticks vary in thickness, so I need to use something to get an even top. Should I give the yardsticks a clear coat first, to prevent bubbles? Should I use a polyester and polyurethane ? Which is easier to use? I was reading about Envirotex lite and find different directions for the stir times to mix it. Do you have any recommendations?

    1. I would use a clear drying acrylic spray to seal the yardsticks before pouring a layer of resin. I would not use polyurethane or polyester resin because neither of them are self-leveling. Instead, I would use a clear doming epoxy resin to apply to the top of the table. Both of these in our shop would work: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/alumilite-amazing-clear-cast-epoxy-resin-32-ounces?variant=377482313754 and https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/totalcast-clear-artwork-resin-70-ounce-kit?variant=27573923841

  181. Hello. I have been using Famowood Glaze Coating. I build guitars and have been using it as a clear finish. Been working great, but I have been wanting to do small inlays. I founf someplace, but can’t find it again about using water based Acrylic color paints mixing with the Glaze Coating to make small inlays. I have been noticing the Glaze will stay rubbery on smaller inlays, but works great in larger areas. Am I using the wrong stuf to do this?

      1. This can be used with Famowood Glaze Coating? also I am looking to make a solid color with fluorescent colors that will glow under a black light. thanks.

  182. Hello. I have been using Famowood Glaze Coating for a lot of projects. I make guitars and have used it as a clear finish. Works great. I have been making inlays with it, but got smaller colored inlays the glaze stays rubbery. i seen someplace that mixing water base Acrylic paints in with the Glaze Coating could change the color and could use as making inlays. larger inlays works great, but smaller with stay rubbery. Should I be using something else?

  183. Hi @Katherine , I am a begginer with resin and as I have read what I should use is epoxy resin, my project is handmade jewelry with sea shells, my question is, is epoxy resin fine when exposed to sunlight, I mean if I am working with seashells and my clients are most likely to wear their jewelry at the beach, will there be a problem when exposed to salty water and sunlight? And also do sheashells and exposy resin work together?

    1. HI Natasha, occasional exposure of resin to water generally isn’t a problem, but bathing or swimming could be. As for the sunlight, that could be a problem. Resins with UV inhibitors and stabilizers help extend the time before yellowing occurs. However, constant exposure to sunlight can speed up the yellowing process. How long the epoxy will last in its clear state is very difficult to predict.

  184. Hi Katherine! Your post was so informative, thank you! I made my daughter cut-out cookies for her 1st birthday and would like to keep one as a keepsake. What material (and how) do you suggest I use to encapsulate one, so that it doesn’t break or yellow over time (the cookie is coated with white icing)? I’ve gone to the craft store and saw various kinds of resins, acrylic spray, Mod Podge, etc…I am a bit overwhelmed with all the products out there.

    1. Hi Bele,

      First, you are going to have to find a way to completely dehydrate the cookie. Otherwise, it will spoil in the resin. Once the cookie is as dry as possibly, carefully coat it with a couple layers of sealer spray. This one in our shop is the one I like to use: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/tools-and-supplies/products/castin-craft-gloss-resin-sealer-spray?variant=965319185 After it is sealed, you can use resin. Were you wanting to cast it in a mold or dome resin on the surface? That will help me make a recommendation for you.

      You should also know that unfortunately, all resins are going to yellow over time. Resins with UV inhibitors and stabilizers help extend the time before yellowing occurs. However, things such as mixing off ratio (even though it still can cure without tackiness), putting over an improperly cured lacquer, excessive heat, and or constant exposure to sunlight can speed up the yellowing process. How long the epoxy will last in its clear state is very difficult to predict.

      1. Thanks Katherine from your prompt reply! I will definitely be ordering the sealer spray, thanks for the recommendation. I am looking to coat the cookies, similar to the cookies as seen in this video I found:

        Would this be called dome resining on the surface? Do you have any tips as to how to achieve this? Would I brush the resin onto the top of the cookies using a paintbrush, wait to harden, then brush the back? Then sand and polish afterwards? I am unsure how to get both the front and back coated…and then also the sides so that it is fully encased so the cookie won’t spoil! Any suggestions would be appreciated – thank you so much Katherine!

  185. I have to repair a guitar neck. It’s not wood. It’s aluminum that had some sort of paint on it between the frets and rubbed off. I stripped and sanded the whole thing. I need a really hard and durable coating that will not be to thick. I plan to tint with powdered black dye.

  186. Hi! I make monsters out of polymer clay and want to make stringy saliva out of a clear resin to hang from the teeth. I’ve never experimented with resin so I’m not sure what type may give this effect. I’m assuming I would let the resin sit a while and begin to thicken and then spread it on the teeth to create the dripping effect. Does anyone know what kind of resin could work in this way?

    1. Unfortunately, I don’t know that resin will work for what you want to do. It isn’t going to freeze very easily in a drip form without you having to babysit it for several hours. If you wanted to try, I would suggest trying a very quick cure polyurethane resin (less than two minute pot time).

  187. Thank you, this article was very enlightening! I am new to Resin products and am looking for something that can withstand heat. You mentioned that epoxy can not withstand the heat from a sanding wheel. Is there another type that would be more appropriate? Something that could handle 180 degree temperatures?

    1. Will the resin be at a constant 180 or is this occasionally? That will best help me to make a recommendation.

        1. A polyester or polyurethane resin is what I would try. Check with the manufacturer of the specific product you want to use.

  188. Hi Ms. Katherine, thank you for sharing this.

    Im planning to make accessories like necklace , bracelets earings. pendants and things like for souvenirs and displays. i havent tried it and looking for help about it.
    if i were to use epoxy resin, is any type of colorant may be used? and for glow in the dark resins designs which type i can use?

    if i were to put paper or photos will i have to do something before putting it in? how about petals and leaves? will it stay its freshness for long?

    is any colorants can be used in polyester?

    I am planning to make also a display about 3 by 3 inch and 1foot tall, and want to put LED lightings in it, , im also gonna put designs in it. so which is the best choice?

    Sorry for giving you so much to answer. i was just really into resins after i had seen videos of it.
    Thank you again!

    1. We have a bunch of colorants, including glow in the dark, in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/colorants

      Papers and flowers will need to be sealed before including them in resin. We have a few articles on how to do that here: https://www.resinobsession.com/tag/drying-flowers/

      For your large casting, a polyester resin is what I would choose, although I don’t recommend it for beginners. We have one in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/products/castin-craft-polyester-resin-16-oz?variant=965320113

  189. Hello,

    i am so happy i have found your website! You are so helpful ans inspiring to me! I am making jewelry with epoxy for years now and i am still not absolutely satisfied with the outcome, but i have become super stubborn 🙂 So a phenomena that happens, is that my jewelry becomes matte over time, so it is shiny in the beginning, no reaction on the surface after the “watertest” but when someone starts wearing the earrings, the surface gets matte after around 10-14 days.. so my question would be either if you would know, whats happening there and how i can avoid this to happen, but i also wonder if there would be an issue if i would seal the epoxy in the end with uv resin to “keep the trouble in”. (I laminate objects up to 15 times and i can imagine sth went wrong in one of the layers and that keeps bleeding through..) and if the uv resin could stop the bleeding..
    i hope my question wasnt to confusing and i would be soo happy to hear back from you!

      1. I live in germany and use a german epoxy, it is called hock which is a very good brand as far as i know..

        how do uv resins and epoxy resins work together? do you think the uv resin could seal the surface?

  190. HI Katherine!

    I have worked with the envirolite resin before but this was mostly for coatings. Now, I am trying to develop a large resin chain handle for a handbag. I use different colors inside the resin as well. I am having some silicone molds made and have 2 different questions. 1. What would be the best type of resin to use for making a whole object in resin and not just a coating. As it is a handle for a bag, it will need to be somewhat durable and able to set well inside a mold. 2. What is the best type of silicone for making the molds I need? 3. If I am making the molds on the half (2 sides of the chain that must be combined after – what is the best way to combine or “glue” the 2 sides together. Hope this was clear. Thank you so much… your information is very helpful!

    1. The Resin Obsession super clear resin works well for casting projects. It cures very hard and if you are careful in mixing, bubbles are almost never a problem. You can find it in several sizes in our store here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession Since you are only making a a half side of the link at once, most any pourable molding material will work for you since the shape isn’t complicated and doesn’t have any undercuts. We have several molding options in our shop here: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/mold-making-materials Once you demold your chain pieces, you can use some mixed epoxy to glue them together. Either use some of your resin the next time you mix it or a 5 minute ‘hardware store’ epoxy should do well. Good luck!

  191. hi im new to using resins and im having trouble finding info. i want to make a tabletop using an old lipped table. i want to put down tarot cards and some crystals throughout and then use a resin to seal it in place. what could i use that would do this? i was thinking epoxy cause everyone told me it’s easy to use and looks great but how would i make it to not scuff or dent, since you said it does that, and still keep it clear? thank you for your help and the article.

  192. Ha! I guess I’d better quit polishing pours of my 2:1 epoxy.

    Seriously, you can polish epoxy, you just need to slow the polisher down and move over the material faster.

    I turn wood and, frequently, fill large cracks with epoxy (I keep a gallon and a half around for various woodworking and other projects, so it’s convenient).

    After turning, I have to sand the surface, then buff it to bring the epoxy back to clear.

    1. Hi Kelly, yes, you are correct in that some epoxies can be polished, but in general, it doesn’t work out well. (Part of the fun of resin is learning the rules, then breaking them!) In addition to your suggestions above, wood turners have told me they need extra water for cooling pieces if they are doing it on a lathe. The specific manufacturer can generally give better advice.

  193. Hi, what an amazing site! I’m looking to set the bases of three bottles into resin to make one centre piece. I was thinking of making a circular mould, approx 12inches diameter, standing the bottles in it and pouring in some resin. Finished thing needs to be robust enough to be moved from table to table. Couple of questions. – what resin would you recommend? – how thick should the pour be? – could I use a silicone cake mould? Thanks so much in advance

      1. Sorry, don’t think I made myself clear – only looking at a table centre – probably using a 9″ circular mould and 3 bottles….

  194. Hi, I am painting bathroom tiles with acrylic paints. What kind of resin would be the most waterproof to seal these? I am doing some tiles around a vanity and some in the shower. The shower tiles are the ones that concern us the most.

  195. Hi Katherine, no they will not have consistent exposure to water. The tiles around the vanity will only occasionally get wet when we clean them. But the ones in the shower will have quite a bit of water exposure when the shower is used. Now, this is for a guest bathroom, so even then it will probably only be used a few times a year.

  196. Hi Katherine; thanks for your very helpful info here and elsewhere. Apologize if this has been asked and answered…
    I want to cast a bowl (8″ diameter, 6″ tall, 3/8 thick except at base). I made a silicone mold, under pressure, and expect to cure the casting under pressure as well. I want to create a faux marble or granite look similar to what I see from the counter top creators, if possible, but open pour area of the mold (= size of the base about 4″) doesn’t give much maneuvering room.

    This is a hollow bowl, not meant for woodturning. I would like to be able to take it out of the mold and be done, maybe some polishing if anything. I need to make 10 of these exact same size & shape, but colors can vary.

    So far I’ve done small test casts (no pressure pot, so lots of bubbles in deep stuff) with a 1:1 epoxy meant for coating tabletops, and with 1:1 clear amber polyurethane resin.

    Problems I’m having is that the color striations (using poly dye, pearl powder and/ or alcohol inks) mix more on their own than I’d like, and/or sink down to the bottom into a generic mass. Other things like glitter, mica, etc. seem to either float or sink.

    I know I will have to experiment to achieve the effects I want, but I’ve been told that my problems are largely due to viscosity and cure time of the resins. The guy who likes poly says use a resin with thickening filler to keep color veins from moving around, or else one with a very short pot life Ha! mix, batch out and color, manipulate the color while pouring and get it into the chamber pot — all in under 3 minutes? The guy who likes epoxy is a woodturner who pours blanks with all kinds of junk in addition to color or pearl powders, but he always gets interesting patterns and striations due to turning.

    Sorry for the long comment. I just think your butcher shop analogy is dead on, so I tried to explain what my intentions and desires for this cast. So, epoxy or polyurethane resin?

    Any advice would be soooooo appreciated. I feel like I’ve watched every woodturning and industrial parts casting video there is, but still keep coming back to resin obsession for spot on info.
    Thanks, Jan
    I should add that this bowl needs to stand up to rough handling, but hopefully not being dropped.

    1. Thanks for all the information Janet. It is obvious you have put a lot of thought into this!

      Based upon what you want to do, I think a clear polyurethane is best. Polyurethanes do well in molds and hold up with a polishing wheel and compound. To get them bubble free, especially in this situation, a pressure pot is necessary. (You have that going on for you already.)

      Unfortunately, we don’t sell clear polyurethanes as they tend to have a short shelf life. Alumilite (we sell some of their other resins) has some good ones. (www.alumilite.com) I would refer you to them for a specific product recommendation based upon what you are trying to accomplish. Please let them know we referred you.

      Before you work with polyurethanes, you should know they are fussy with moisture, so only used colorants designed specifically for them. Powders/glitters/mica need to be bone dry as well.

      I would love to see how this turns out for you!

  197. Hi Katherine. I want to make bracelets (bangles) that are not solid resin….but rather have a Styrofoam core, which I will coat with plaster of paris. I will smooth it down and hopefully coat it with a colored(transparent) resin or polyurethane. I will be painting it on, rather than dipping it. It will require several coates, with sanding in between. And maybe a final dip in resin to smooth things out. I am imagining transparent colors. Big bold bracelets, like a large donut actually. But it would be lighter weight because of the foam and plaster center. Should I use a clear resin for painting on, or a polyurethane for it? Thank for the advice…. Bill

  198. Thank you for the prompt response. I have not tried it before. And I will look into the doming resin as a possible solution. The constant rotation problem hadn’t occurred to me. Thank you again….Bill.

  199. Room Divider Panels:
    Hi Katherine, very informative thank you.

    I’m looking to make some room divider panels that I want to add some translucent colours to. I’m looking to cast them onto some 5mm thick polyester or PET3 sheets.
    Any advice please?

  200. Hi Katherine. I do paper beads for jewellery. Could I use the very runny epoxy to dip the pieces in for a very fine coating ? or even brush it on? if dipping, how would you suggest drying them without sticking on the stick(to keep the whole intact) or on the surface?