This article is the second in a two-part series. Read the first part How to use relief outliner paint.
Now that the base of the project has been completed, it’s time to pour resin!
The supplies for this project: Super Clear Resin, transluscent resin dyes from Castin’ Craft, Stampendeous Fragments, Pearl Ex, Resin Obsession stir sticks, dollar store glue spreaders, and nitrile gloves.
I cover my whole work area with wax paper to protect my work surface.
For small castings, such as this project, it can be helpful to have a small tray to be able to move the project easily. For my tray, I used recycled packaging and recycled card board from a paper pad for rigidity.
Since resin does not stick to wax paper, I always line my tray with wax paper to reduce the chance my tray will get ruined with stray resin.
I remove the wax paper with outliner from the plastic sheet and tape it down on the tray.
Super Clear is a 2:1 epoxy resin that cures very clear. It’s a thin viscosity resin which makes it ideal for molds or bezels as doming isn’t the final objective.
I always use 2 cups to measure the resin parts. For this project, I poured 4 drams of part A and 2 drams of part B.
Resin Obsession stir sticks are perfect for mixing resin. The sticks are rigid with a wide paddle and perfectly flat.
Time to color the resin
The first colour on this project is the flesh tone. For this I used Pink Gold Pearl Ex.
Using one of the dollar store glue spreaders, I measure out a small amount of Pearl Ex, about the size of a pea. The dollar store spreaders are not ideal for mixing resin because the paddle is flexible and the handle has sticky-outy bits. But, it’s good for transferring powder pigment. A dry stir stick can also be used.
TIP: Using different types of sticks for measuring and mixing reduces the chance of putting a resin wet stick in a dry pigment container.
With the project on a small tray, it’s easy to turn it to get to all areas of the image without hovering your hand over wet resin.
The resin needs to touch all edges of the Outliner for the colour area. The resin will bond to the Outliner where it touches.
The sky is started with a drop or two of liquid blue transparent resin dye. Mix the blue dye with a small amount of resin.
In the larger sky area, a stir stick can be used to spread the resin. An even coat over the area is needed.
As with the other colours, stir with a small amount of resin then add more resin until it’s the colour and amount you want.
To add texture to the sand, I wanted to use Stampendeous Fragments.
Pour the crushed fragments into the sand coloured resin. I use a Pearl Ex bottle to prop up the stir stick because the stick is heavier than the resin in the cup. This helps to keep it from tipping.
The big areas are done and it could be left to cure like this. But… Since the resin has started to cure and get a bit thicker, it can be used for marbling and marbling can be used to add clouds.
Time to let the resin cure
Cover the project while it’s curing to avoid unwanted bits, like cat hair, from becoming a part of your project.
When the project is cured to the point where it can be demolded, the wax paper can be peeled off. Super Clear cures to demolding in 6+ hours. Other resins may take at least 12 hours. You can let it cure longer before peeling off the wax paper, it will just be stiffer. If the project is a bit floppy when you first take the wax paper off, let it continue to cure on a flat surface.
When the project is fully cured, you can trim any rough edges of the Outliner with a scissors.
If you have any gaps or want to make the project thicker, once it is cured you can do an over pour of resin as you would for any other ‘canvas’. Once it is fully cured, you can even do a doming layer with a different epoxy resin such as Ice resin.
So what do you think of my faux stained glass DIY? What would you like to make?