Now that we’ve made the base for the faux stained glass, it’s time to pour resin.
This article is the second in a two-part series. Read the first part How to use relief outliner paint.
The supplies for this faux stained glass DIY project:
Step 1: Get ready
I covered my work area with wax paper to protect my work surface.
For small castings, such as this project, it can be helpful to have a small tray to move the project quickly. For my tray, I used recycled packaging and recycled cardboard from a paper pad for rigidity.
I slipped the cardboard into the packaging between the plastic layers.
Since resin does not stick to wax paper, I always line my tray with it to reduce the chance my tray will get ruined runover epoxy resin.
I removed the wax paper with the outliner from the plastic sheet and taped it to the tray.
Step 2: Mix resin
Super Clear is a 2:1 epoxy resin that cures very clear. Even though I’m not using a mold, the faux stained glass base is acting like a mold. I always use 2 cups to measure the resin parts. For this project, I poured 4 drams of part A and 2 drams of part B.
If you haven’t mixed resin before, learn how to mix epoxy in five easy steps.
I pour part B into part A and stir slowly to mix the components.
Resin Obsession stir sticks are perfect for mixing resin. The sticks are rigid with a wide paddle and perfectly flat.
Step 3: Time to color the resin
The first colour on this project is the flesh tone. For this, I used Pink Gold Pearl Ex.
I measure out a small amount of Pearl Ex, about the size of a pea.
TIP: Using different sticks for measuring and mixing reduces the chance of putting a wet resin stick in a dry pigment container.
Stir the pigment into the resin slowly to avoid adding bubbles.
Add more resin to the coloured resin until it is the desired resin color and amount.
Step 4: Add the resin to the stained glass template.
Drip a small amount of resin into a skin area and spread it carefully to the edges. Our faux stained glass is coming to life!
To get into the small areas, you can use a toothpick. Try not to scratch the wax paper.
With the project on a small tray, it’s easy to turn it to get to all areas of the image without hovering your hand over wet resin.
The resin must touch all edges of the outliner for the colour area. This is because the resin will bond to the outliner where it touches.
The sky started with a drop or two of liquid blue transparent resin dye. Mix the blue dye with a small amount of resin.
Add a small amount of Turquoise Pearl Ex and more resin to lighten the colour. As with the Pink Gold, add more resin until it is the desired colour and amount.
Step 6: Mix color for the sand
The sand starts with a drop of both yellow and orange transparent dye.
You can add dry pigment to the wet before adding resin. For example, I added Interference Gold to the yellow and orange resin dye.
As with the other colours, stir with a small amount of resin, then add more until it’s the colour and amount you want.
To add texture to the sand, I wanted to use Stampendeous Fragments.
The fragments are pretty large, so I put a small amount of them in a coffee filter.
Pour the crushed fragments into the sand-coloured resin. I use a Pearl Ex bottle to prop up the stir stick because the stick is heavier than the resin in the cup. This helps to keep it from tipping.
Mix the resin with the flakes.
Pour the sand like the other two areas.
Use a toothpick to spread it to all areas.
Step 7: Create clouds in the sky
The big areas are done and could be left to cure like this. But, since the resin has started to cure and thicken, you can use it for marbling. Add it to your stained glass to add clouds.
Drag a toothpick through the blobs.
Step 8: Time to let the resin cure
Cover the project while it’s curing to avoid unwanted bits, like cat hair, from becoming a part of your project.
Step 9: Remove the faux stained glass from the wax paper.
You can peel off the wax paper when the project is cured to the point where it can be demolded. Super Clear cures to demolding in about 8 hours. Other resins can take 12 hours or longer. If you let it cure longer before peeling off the wax paper, it will just be stiffer. If your resin project is a bit floppy when you first take the wax paper off, let it continue to cure on a flat surface.
When the project is fully cured, you can trim rough edges of the outliner with scissors.
If you have any gaps or want to make the project thicker, once it is cured, you can do an over-pour of resin as you would for any other ‘canvas .’Once fully cured, you can do a doming layer with a coating epoxy resin, such as Resin Obsession crystal doming resin.
And our faux stained glass is finished!
This is another sample with a lighter sky.
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Originally written by Kate Ledum
Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2022 Resin Obsession, LLC