This article is the second in a two-part series. Read the first part How to use relief outliner paint.
Now that the base of the project has been completed, it’s time to pour resin!
I cover my whole work area with wax paper to protect my work surface.
Prepare your work surface
For small castings, such as this project, it can be helpful to have a small tray to be able to move the project easily. For my tray, I used recycled packaging and recycled cardboard from a paper pad for rigidity.
I slipped the cardboard into the packaging between the plastic layers.
Since resin does not stick to wax paper, I always line my tray with wax paper to reduce the chance my tray will get ruined with stray resin.
I remove the wax paper with outliner from the plastic sheet and tape it down on the tray.
Super Clear is a 2:1 epoxy resin that cures very clear. It’s a thin viscosity resin which makes it ideal for molds or bezels as doming isn’t the final objective. I always use 2 cups to measure the resin parts. For this project, I poured 4 drams of part A and 2 drams of part B.
If you haven’t mixed resin before, learn how to mix resin and hardener in five easy steps.
I pour part B into part A and stir slowly to mix the parts.
Resin Obsession stir sticks are perfect for mixing resin. The sticks are rigid with a wide paddle and perfectly flat.
Time to color the resin
The first colour on this project is the flesh tone. For this I used Pink Gold Pearl Ex.
I measure out a small amount of Pearl Ex, about the size of a pea.
TIP: Using different sticks for measuring and mixing reduces the chance of putting a resin wet stick in a dry pigment container.
Add a small amount of resin to the pigment.
Stir the pigment into the resin slowly to avoid adding bubbles.
Add more resin to the coloured resin until it is the designed colour and amount.
A small amount of Pearl Ex in clear resin is translucent when poured thinly.
Add the resin to the stained glass template.
Drip a small amount of resin into a skin area and spread it carefully to the edges. Our faux stained glass DIY is starting to come to life!
To get into the small areas, a toothpick can be used. Try not to scratch the wax paper.
With the project on a small tray, it’s easy to turn it to get to all areas of the image without hovering your hand over wet resin.
The resin needs to touch all edges of the Outliner for the colour area. The resin will bond to the Outliner where it touches.
The sky is started with a drop or two of liquid blue transparent resin dye. Mix the blue dye with a small amount of resin.
To the resin and dye, I add in a small amount of Pearl Ex Interference Blue.
Blue dye, Interference Blue, and resin has an intense slightly pearled colour.
Add a small amount of Turquoise Pearl Ex and more resin to lighten the colour. Just as with the Pink Gold, add more resin until it is the desired colour and amount.
In the larger sky area, a stir stick can be used to spread the resin. An even coat over the area is needed.
Mix color for the sand
The sand starts with a drop of both yellow and orange transparent dye.
You can add dry pigment to the wet before adding resin. I added Interference Gold to the yellow and orange dye.
As with the other colours, stir with a small amount of resin then add more resin until it’s the colour and amount you want.
To add texture to the sand, I wanted to use Stampendeous Fragments.
The fragments are pretty large so I put a small amount of them in a coffee filter.
I crushed them with the back of a paint brush to make them smaller.
The crushed fragments are smaller and will add a nice texture appearance.
Pour the crushed fragments into the sand coloured resin. I use a Pearl Ex bottle to prop up the stir stick because the stick is heavier than the resin in the cup. This helps to keep it from tipping.
Mix the resin with the flakes.
The sand is poured like the other two areas.
Use a toothpick to spread it to all areas.
Create clouds in the sky
The big areas are done and it could be left to cure like this. But… Since the resin has started to cure and get a bit thicker, it can be used for marbling and marbling can be used to add clouds.
Mix Micropearl Pearl Ex with the thick resin.
Drip the thicker white pearl resin into the sky area.
Drag a toothpick through the blops.
Time to let the resin cure
Cover the project while it’s curing to avoid unwanted bits, like cat hair, from becoming a part of your project.
Remove the faux stained glass DIY from the wax paper.
When the project is cured to the point where it can be demolded, the wax paper can be peeled off. Super Clear cures to demolding in 6+ hours. Other resins may take at least 12 hours. You can let it cure longer before peeling off the wax paper, it will just be stiffer. If the project is a bit floppy when you first take the wax paper off, let it continue to cure on a flat surface.
When the project is fully cured, you can trim any rough edges of the Outliner with scissors.
If you have any gaps or want to make the project thicker, once it is cured you can do an over pour of resin as you would for any other ‘canvas’. Once it is fully cured, you can even do a doming layer with a different epoxy resin such as Resin Obsession crystal doming resin.
And our project is finished!
This is another sample with a lighter sky.
So what do you think of my faux stained glass DIY? What would you like to make?
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