I am putting this step by step tutorial on this wonderful resin website, for all people who are interested in making their own pendants and want to work with transparencies. I could get no in-depth help from anyone on how to work with transparencies and add them to resin jewelry, so I decided to learn this process myself. It took time through trial and error to get as far as I am now. Lots of experiments went into the trash can. I tried different resins until I found one that worked wonderfully, thanks to Resin Obsession Super Clear Resin.
After trying different kinds of transparencies, I found one that works really well. I just wanted to make jewelry that I wanted and loved, for myself and for no one else. Since I cannot afford to purchase what I want, I learned how to create things I love. It is much cheaper to create it yourself, if you have time and are a bit on the obsessive side like I am. So here it is for all the people who what to make their own resin pendants and personalize them with transparencies.
-Computer Grafix Pk/50 Clear Ink Jet Film 8.5×11″
-Resin mold of your choice
–Optional – big emery board (nail file)
You will have to decide what size and shape you want your pendant. After you have decided on a mold, you will have to measure the inside of the mold you choose. You will need to know the measurements for your transparency. I used this plastic resin pendant mold.
You will have to choose a photo – sketch – painting – or art work that you want to use to print onto the transparency. I do suggest that you use your own personal photos – sketch – painting – or artworks. I would not use anyone else’s artwork to put into the pendant due to copyright laws . If you plan on selling your pendants, you will need to read up on copyright laws.
Step 1: Create the artwork
There are lots of different types of photo programs you can use to manipulate your photograph. I took several photos at my family’s graveyard where my mother is buried, then transferred my photos onto my computer. Using two different photo programs I got for free online, I intensified the colors and used some cool effects on my photos. I do suggest that you intensify the colors in your photo, so you can see them better in your pendant.
After you are done with your photo manipulation, you will have to resize it so it will fit into your mold. Make enough photos to fill a full page up, so you do not waste any of the transparency sheets. When you are ready to print on your transparencies, make sure you adjusted the printing preferences on your printer. Be sure too, to print on the correct side of the transparency. There is only one side you can print on. It will not be the shiny slick side; it will be the textured side that you print on. This is very important!
Step 2: Cut Transparency to fit mold cavity
After I printed out my transparencies, I let them sit overnight in a place where fuzz and lint can not get on them. This is probably not necessary, but I take no chances. When I cut out my transparencies, I take them to a window where there is really bright light. I can see to cut them out better there.
Step 3: Add resin
I take my resin mold and put wax paper underneath it. This makes for easy cleanup.
Even though you do not see me wearing gloves, I do advise wearing safety gloves when using resin. Do what I say, not what I do. LOL
Make sure it is not too cold in the room when you are pouring the resin. When I pour resin I have the temperature around 74 degrees. Mix up your resin according to the instructions that came with your Super Clear Resin. After I mix it up, I always let it rest for around 5 minutes. When I go to pour my resin, I pinch the side of the cup to get more control of the pour. I pour around 1/8” of resin on the bottom of my mold. Around 1/8” gives a nice magnification of your transparency. If you have any bubbles, work them out with a toothpick or go over the surface with a heat gun.
Let the resin set up before you go to the next step.
Step 4: Inserting Transparency
Before you put in your transparency, you will need to pour enough resin to coat the bottom. I usually put the printed side of the transparency face down. (Shiny side up – textured side down.) This will make a big difference if you have any words on your transparency. You don’t want your words backward. Put in your transparency and place it where you want it with a toothpick. I usually push it down where the resin comes up over the top of the transparency and then I center it. Next, I pour more resin to the top of that and center it once again. Let the pendant sit at least 24 hours before popping it out.
This resin pendant mold is great for making your own resin pendants using transparencies. It has cast in place holes at the top, which means you won’t need to drill your pendants to add jump rings after demolding.
You may have to come back after the resin has cured and top it off with a bit more resin. Resin does shrink a little bit. By adding more resin, you do not have to sand the back edges. If you do not want to do that, you can come back after it has cured and pop it out. Then, take an emery board and file off the rough edges that are on the back. Always wear a mask if you do any sanding. Resin powder is not good for the lungs!
This is what it looks like against my white stove.
This is what it looks like held up to my window.
Step 5: Finishing
All I have to do to this piece to finish it up is drill a hole in it. You will need to mark where you want to drill the hole. I measure my pendant and put a very very small dot with my marker as a guide. Using a small hand drill, start with a very small drill bit and gradually increase the size till you get the hole size you need to be able to make the pendant wearable. Resin looks great on leather! I hope this helps anyone who was wanting to make your own resin pendants.
Want to get even more resin jewelry projects? Be sure to buy a copy of Resin Jewelry Making. The instantly downloadable book will have you make resin jewelry easier than you ever thought possible!
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