Need a box mold

  • This topic has 5 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 11 months ago by Clinton Gallagher @tapABILITIES.
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    • #6326
      Katherine Swift

      This question comes through email by Ann:

      I’m trying to find a “box” mold that is at least 2 inches deep but only needs to be 1 inch on each side. My son broke his favorite key chain (it’s the head of a Terminator) and I want to sink it in resin to make a new key chain with it. I have been searching everywhere but can’t find what I need? All I can find are flat square molds – nothing tall enough. Any suggestions? Thanks.

    • #6327
      Katherine Swift

      Hi Ann,

      My best suggestion would be to make the walls for your mold out of Legos. Cover the inside of your walls with masking tape, then press this onto a masking tape base. You can pour resin into this ‘box’. Once the resin has cured, you can peel away the masking tape.

      • #6333

        Can I use an acrylic container as a mold? If I spray the inside of it with mold release will I be able to get it out without have to break it? I’m using an epoxy resin. Thanks.

        • #6337
          Katherine Swift

          Unlikely since the acrylic container isn’t flexible.

    • #6372
      Patrice Baker

      Hi there, I might avoid the masking tape unless you use tape that is 2 inches wide. Otherwise you will have lines tough to remove. Also, you might have a much easier time finding a container that is one inch deep, and 2 x 1 inches length and width . The end result will be the same size and it might be easier to get a better placement of the the poor terminator’s tete by setting it up lengthwise. I would go to a dollar store and find a suitable container and just break off the sides … i would still use the mold release though.

    • #6374
      Clinton Gallagher @tapABILITIES

      As a former architectural modeler I learned the value of using foam core that can be purchased at any arts and crafts store and it comes in different sizes and thicknesses. Its made from heavy coated paper on both sides of a foam core.

      It is easy to measure and cut to any size and shape using x-acto tools. I use a metal rule to guide my blade (BE SAFE AND DO NOT RUSH KEEPING AN EYE ON YOUR FINGERS HOLDING THE RULE) the metal rule also helps hold the blade perpendicular to the edge of the rule so you can get 90 degree cuts which is the ideal but not absolutely neccesary as you will learn. I think they used a metal edge on one side of wooden rules for the same reasons.

      Assemble edges well coated with white glue which will prevent your mold from leaking. Do not worry about excess glue on the inside of your mold. Let the glue set up a bit to get stiff but not dry and use your blade to trim any excess from the inside of your joints.

      You will need to tape the outside of your joints only if you did not use enough glue on the joints which may cause them to leak; do not be stingy with your glue and you will not need to tape; foam core has great structural properties.

      Spray the inside of your mold with release, the paper used to make foam core is coated and relatively impermeable and made to be painted with brush or spray so mold release works well on the surface. You only need to use release if you want to remove your mold from the mold box.

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