Choosing a resin for a deep casting

Resin jewelry making resin art supplies Forums Resin Techniques Choosing a resin for a deep casting

This topic contains 59 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Kasey 1 month ago.

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  • #8401 Reply

    Katherine Swift

    This question comes from Tim:

    What would be the best cast resin for filling a one pour hole 8″ round by 4″ deep ???
    Will there be shrinkage?
    Can a Polyurethane be put on top of this.

  • #8402 Reply

    Katherine Swift

    Hi Tim,

    A few questions for you:

    1. Will you be demolding this casting?
    2. Is the 8″ x 4″ hole you are filling inside another object?
    3. What are you trying to accomplish with the polyurethane?

    • #8404 Reply

      Tim Jensen

      Applying to hole in exotic wood table, sealed on bottom. Shrinking issue is to bring resin up to flush
      on table surface which the table top coat will be polyurethane or similar.
      Will I need hair dryer or heat source if using your super clear casting resin ?????
      Thank you for every second of your time concerning this for all who will be educated.
      Tim the ignorant…..

  • #8409 Reply

    Katherine Swift

    Hi Tim,

    First thing I would suggest is to make sure the hole in the table is sealed well. Otherwise, the wood will release air that will show up as bubbles in your casting.

    If using the super clear casting resin, if you are careful in mixing, bubbles are almost never a problem. Having a hair dryer handy though would be good as there will likely be a few bubbles you will have to get out. You should know however, that when using the Resin Obsession super clear resin, we recommend mixing no more than 3 ounces at a time. It is going to take you several pours to get your hole filled.

    Were you looking at a polyurethane varnish to coat your surface? I ask because I like to use the Alumilite Amazing clear cast epoxy resin as it is considered food safe once cured. It will give a glossy finish and would be compatible with pouring over the hole filled with either the same or a different epoxy resin. I haven’t put a coat of polyurethane over epoxy resin in this situation, so I don’t know how well it would work.

  • #12533 Reply


    Hello..Newbie to resin casting here…am wanting to pour a resin table top that will include a burl slab, stones, fossils, etc…am bewildered by all the info online regarding thick casting…can anyone point me in the right direction for the right resin that is crystal clear, relatively safe to use, and I can pour large areas of resin at once?…am confused by the instructions of only mixing 3 ounces of resin at a time…my table top will be about 2 by 3 feet, so three ounces at a time seems like alot of frantic mixing periodically, etc…🤤…help!…lol..and thanks in advance!

    • #12536 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      Hi Rob,

      Were you wanting to be able to sand and finish the table afterwards or is using the resin the final step?

  • #13610 Reply

    Dave Benson

    Hey hope you guys can help, I’ve been looking at scale models (ships) that are particularly imbedded into resin to make it look like water. Is there a certain resin that would suit this type of application? There are water products available for dioramas but can’t be made too deep…

    • #13613 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      A polyester resin is what I would use in this case. Do you have any experience with them? They can be a bit fussy to work with. We have one in our store here:

      • #13676 Reply

        Dave Benson

        I don’t have any experience with any resins, what I’m aiming to achieve is a deep water diorama. Maybe a sunken ship, clear resin or slightly tinted blue with a ship on top… but I’d like for the resin to be 200mm deep or 7-8 inch deep… will the resin have to be poured multiple times in the layers?

        • #13705 Reply

          Katherine Swift

          It depends on which kind/brand of resin you are using. The manufacturer should be able to tell you how much resin you can mix/pour at once. (Otherwise, the resin overheats and cures very quickly.) A seven to eight inch pour is likely going to be a lot of resin. Polyesters tend to do well with this large a pour.

  • #13823 Reply

    Jersy Alva

    Hello, thanks in advance for the help. I’m making a live edge conference table that’s 8’L x 4’ W x 2”H. I’m not encapsulating the top but rather filling voids and any dead space in the mold to crate a rectangular table that’s flush with the slab. Hopefully I’m describing it right.
    I’ve been thinking of using a polyester resin but from what I’ve been told by merchants is that polyester doesn’t adhere as well as an epoxy resin does. I’ve never poured Polyester but all I’ve read says polyester is harder to work as far as smell and cure time. Is there a benefit to using one over the other for my application? Is there a clear epoxy resin that can be poured 2” thick and won’t overheat and crack? Thanks!

    • #13829 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      I’m not clear, are you casting the resin by itself or with wood?/

  • #14326 Reply


    Hello, I want to cast table top. But what kind of epoxy resin I should use. Should I use epoxy cast resin or something else. Table top thickness has to be 2 inches.

  • #14447 Reply


    I am looking to fill the center of a tree stump that has 3 large branch sections coming off the main stump. I’m thinking the holes i want to make will be 6-8″ diameter and 14-16″ deep. I think i will need at least 3-4 gallons. I will light them from the bottom with some type of lamps. A) what type of resin to get; B) should i keep the resin clear and use multi color changing lights or can i put a little pigment in each hole to make them different color? thanks!

    • #14452 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      For a project like this, I suggest using a clear polyurethane resin. We don’t sell them, but instead recommend going to Please let them know we referred you. 🙂

      You can either color the resin or use lights for your project.

      Good luck!

  • #15156 Reply

    Robert Ketterlinus

    Hi. I have maple wood slabs (between 1-3 inches thick) with holes (some as larges as 4-5 inches diameter) that I want to fill with clear resin, then will finish wood with poly. From what I can see in this thread maybe it would be better to use a clear polyurethane product than one you sell? I have other projects that I think your products will work for but for now I am working on the slabs. p.s. Ive never worked with resin so please provide advice or show me where to find if possible. Thanks!

  • #15629 Reply


    Hi, I’m new to casting and wanting to make essential oil bottle holders that would be blocks about 1.5”wide, 2” tall and 8” long with holes either cast into the top or drilled. I’d like to use something that I could cast in a single pour so that I can use paints to make a sort of mottled translucent color scheme. What type of resin would work best?

    • #15633 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      Unfortunately, I don’t know of any resin that has been tested to hold oil for long periods of time.

      • #15638 Reply


        They won’t be holding the oil directly, it’s more for displaying the bottles

        • #15639 Reply

          Katherine Swift

          That helps.

          When you say you want to use paint to create a mottled appearance do you want to use it to color the resin or on the surface of the resin?

          • #15640 Reply


            I’m wanting to do like white wisps inside of a translucent blue.

  • #15860 Reply

    Sean Backus

    Hello. Im looking for some advice on finishing off our bathroom vanity top. I have placed smooth small lake rocks we collected from a beach on top of backerboard and built a form around them. We would like to finish them with a clear seal. Due to different sized rocks i need to pour it 3 inches thick. Its about 10 square feet total. What do you recommend for product to use and how to apply? Thank you.

  • #18539 Reply


    I’m looking to fill a 3D printer trophy with resin. What kind is going to be best?

  • #18591 Reply


    Hi, I am trying to cast a 10″ Christmas tree in resin. I would like to do it all in one pour. What kind of resin would work for this? Thanks

    • #18601 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      It’s going to be hard for you to get it done in one pour and have it be bubble free. Do you have access to a pressure pot?

  • #19765 Reply


    Hi there, after ~pouring~ over dozens of articles, videos, etc. online, I can’t deduce if what I have in mind is feasible, and if so, which resin would be best.

    I’m trying to create a clear, single-piece, 40″x40″x15″ block. Let’s assume a proper mold has been constructed, and also that an infinite number of friends have readily offered their help entirely unprompted.

    Is there any material that won’t require numerous layers, each with a lengthy cure? This wouldn’t kill the project in the water, I suppose, but it unarguably complicates the undertaking.

    I read that pouring epoxy thickly causes it to heat and cure very quickly, but I’m tempted to think that that would work to the advantage of our theoretical monster block:

    E.g. my infinite friends and I mix the total amount of resin needed in separate safely-mixed quantities, and then pour all of it into the mold at once. As long as it didn’t explode or melt the mold, the faster it cured the better. Would it explode or melt the mold?

    Is this how any of this works? I apologize to be so clueless. I just want a giant epoxy resin block.

    I really appreciate any guidance anyone’s willing to offer. Have a great week!

    • #19793 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      Hi Nolan,

      Here are the things to watch out for as you are doing this project:

      1. Yes, too much heat can be a bad thing. It may cause your resin to crack or cure so quickly you don’t have the opportunity to get the bubbles out.

      2. You need to find a casting resin that allows you to do large pours at once. (We don’t have one that does this large a quantity at once.) Doing some quick math, you will need 50 gallons or more of resin. Follow the directions for the maximum amount of resin to mix and pour at once.

  • #25467 Reply

    Robert Wendt

    Sorry if this is rude or not aloud only thing i found so far with recent activity my friend wants to turn their back window of chevy blazer into a table and i had brought up making a wood frame for it and filling it with a resin or epoxy to make flat since obviuosly back windows are curve what would be best to use since its glass and will have wood frame will be carving about half inch to inch in wood and insert glass into for border

  • #26724 Reply


    This is all very helpful information. I’m a woodworking making a clear resin river between two live edge oak slabs for a dining table top, I’m very familiar with the West System epoxy but haven’t used it for this purpose in the past. I am looking to both fill the void and coat the wood in epoxy but would like to avoid a high-gloss finish. What are your suggestions? Thanks in advance for any information you can give me!

    • #26738 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      If you don’t want a high-gloss finish, you can rough it up with a little sandpaper once cured.

  • #37333 Reply


    hi i do not have any experience with resin but am about to attempt a large project and woul like so experienced input for what product to use and how to prep the surface. i am planning on making a coffee table bordered with wood that i am going to have rocks with sharpy writing on them on the middle. the rocks will be set in grout. i am then wanting to fill it in with resin. what product would you suggest for clarity and minimizing bubbles. also is there anything i would need to do to the grout, rock, or wood surface to seal or prep it before pouring resin around it

    • #37350 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      Hi Jeffrey,

      You have a lot going on here!

      I want to help you with your project, and I think this situation is best suited for a one-on-one consulting call where you and I talk back and forth about what’s going on, especially since you are a beginner. I can set you up for a 15 or 30 minute consultation call. If you want to send an email through our contact page, I am happy to respond with prices and availability.

  • #38825 Reply

    Shantelle Lewicki

    Hi there. I am a total beginner to resin casting so I was hoping to get some advice! I am wanting to make a “diamond” table top. I have a table and bought 4.5mm and 8mm crystal diamond table confetti which basically looks like tiny little diamonds. I’m hoping for a result close to this and am wondering what the best resin would be to cast the diamonds in the table top. Thank you!

  • #39050 Reply


    Hey I’m looking to use resin for a gift and I have some preserved flowers and I’m putting them in a glass fishbowl type container and wanted to cast it in resin so the flowers don’t have to be dusted to prevent them from breaking. What resin do you suggest for it to still be clear in the jar

  • #41499 Reply

    Andrew Hallquist

    Hello! I’m pouring a resin river table and am looking for ideas on resins that can be poured in large quantities but won’t cost $150 per gallon. I am going to seal the edges of the wood before I do the large pour. But my large pour will be about 4.5 gallons. With a little teal pigment, what resins can be poured in such volumes without risking a poor quality and costing me so much? (Table is 70.5″x30″x1.5″, river of resin is approx 9″x70.5″x1.5″ [rounding up, if course]).

    • #41879 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      Hi Andrew, I’m afraid I don’t have a list of resins that meet that requirement.

      I suggest finding a resin you think will work, then checking with the manufacturer about the maximum amount that can be mixed and poured at once.

  • #41675 Reply

    Kaye Jones

    Good evening and thank you, in advance, for any asssistance.

    I have a plastic mold that is 8cm x 11cm in the shape of a sneaker and its 2 1/2″ thick. The mold says its hold 2.07 oz of liquid.

    I plan to use the casting as a photography prop. I intend to use my foredom drill to create notches to hold my jewelry piece as it us being photographed.

    My research leads me to believe that a polyester resin is my best option.

    I have a few questions:
    1. Will the resin give me an issue in the silicone molding?
    1a. I’ve read 3 oz at a time…that seems to cover my needs. Should I adhere to the 1/8 inch thick at a time…or does that just apply to flat surfaces?
    2. I read that the surface dries sticky…what is my best option to create a clear glassy look using a foam applicator (I would rather not spray)
    3. I read mixing slow and keeping a heat gun handy are my best defensed against bubbles w/o using a vacuum device. Any other suggestions?
    4. Once I pour the resin in the mold, while its drying should I place a cover on top w/ some sort of ventaliation?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    • #41880 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      Hi KLaye,

      You have a lot going on here!

      I want to help you with your project, and I think this situation is best suited for a one-on-one consulting call where you and I talk back and forth about what’s going on. I can set you up for a 15 or 30 minute consultation call. If you want to send an email through our contact page, I am happy to respond with prices and availability.

  • #50173 Reply


    I will be making paperweights using a silicone baking mold of 6 dome shapes. Each individual dome is 2 3/4”dia and 1 1/3” deep. I intend to adhere a picture to the flat bottom.
    1. Which product will work to create a clear outcome in a single pour?
    2. After using ModPodge to seal the picture, do i use the same resin as a glue to affix the picture to the cured dome? Or do I use additional ModPodge?
    Thank you.


  • #54277 Reply

    Tyson Andrews

    Ive decied to start a project of encapsulating a 3’x8’x1.5″ kit table.
    im encapsulating 3/4″ pecky cypress on bottem.
    i dont really know what would be the best product for this type of project,
    looking for it to be a clear, and very hard as there will be a mounting bracket under the table.

  • #54324 Reply


    I want to use a full size plastic baseball bat for my mold and pour resin so I have a clear bat, filled with the resin and some large marbles in it. I tested with the marbles and water and would need 16oz. The resin I got said its for pours of 6oz or less. What type of resin could I use for this long 30 mold? Also after I crack open the bat mold, I’m sure I’ll need to sand off some pieces of the plastic mold, so I want something I can sand.

  • #61268 Reply


    I want to preserve my wedding bouquet in resin. It is about 6 in wide and 8in deep. Is this even possible and if so what should I use? Please help

  • #61384 Reply

    Sadreddin Baharnezhad


    I am choosing an expanding ultra-fast curing foam system that cured below 3 min and yield a rigid foam with a hardness of>75 (shore D) with an expansion of 400%. What is your suggestions?


  • #64879 Reply



    this is my first time using resin, I would like to make some clear gear knobs for my car using a 50mm sphere silicone mould and have no idea which resin to use. also which paint do you recommend. could you please help. also can you ship to Australia.

    • #64951 Reply

      Katherine Swift

      Hi Leanne,

      I’m afraid we aren’t able to ship to you in Australia. I don’t have a supplier I can refer you to either.

  • #80604 Reply

    Sierra Reid

    I’m looking to preserve dried flowers in resin and am wondering which resin would be the most bubble free and resist yellowing over time. Also, some of the silicon molds I am hoping to use are pretty thick. The biggest one is a square that is 7″ in length and width and about 2.5″ in depth. Which resin would be the best for my project? Also, will I have to do multiple pours?
    Thank you so much,

  • #82384 Reply


    I’m new to resin casting and I was wondering what the best type of resin would be to use for sphere molds, anywhere from a 2″ to a 8″ sphere.
    Your feedback is valued and appreciated

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