Pouring Table Top Epoxy Over Deep Pour Casting Epoxy

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    • #123926
      Dylan
      Guest

      Hey y’all,

      I have a table project going on with a 4’ X 8’ sheet of plywood, with about 1” tall trim along the sides of the plywood and I have embedded a variety of different items on the base of the plywood.

      The plan was to do 1 pour with 2” deep pour/casting epoxy (https://magicresin.com/collections/deep-pour-casting). Initially, I was sure that I had purchased enough of the resin to completely fill all the way up to about 1/16” over the trim. It turns out that I did not purchase enough resin, because after pouring, the resin was either completely even with the top of the trim or in some spots just barely under the top of the trim.

      I have obviously come to the conclusion that I need to do a second pour to be able to achieve the 1/16” over the top of the trim. This is where I am at a cross roads.

      I have tabletop epoxy that is a separate brand (https://www.theepoxyresinstore.com/collections/tabletop-bar-epoxy-resin/products/crystal-clear-epoxy-resin-tabletops-bars-woodcrafter?variant=4294625667) and ideally I would use that for my second pour to achieve the 1/16” over my trim. This is where my question starts…I have learned that casting/deep pour resin is very different that tapletop epoxy so is it possible for me to pour tabletop epoxy over the deep pour/casting epoxy?

      If so, is it recommended that I wait for the casting/deep pour epoxy to completely cure, sand, and then pour the table top epoxy? Or (as I have read) would I be able to skip surface prep by pouring the tabletop epoxy when the casting/deep pour epoxy is in a gel-like state to where it is not fully cured and is still tacky to the touch? Obviously, if I were able to skip the surface prep by pouring at this time that would be ideal. However is there any disadvantage to doing it this way? Also would anyone be able to specify what this tacky-gel like period looks like and/or roughly when my casting resting would in this state (it takes 4 days to fully cure at 70 – 75 degrees)?

      Lots of questions here, hopefully easy ones as I am a beginner (this project is literally my first resin project ever).

    • #123985
      Katherine Swift
      Keymaster

      Hi Dylan,

      Yes, you can pour different epoxies over each other. Wait until your deep pour is cured, then pour the coating resin over the tabletop. There will be a line between layers, but highly unlikely you’ll see it since you would have to get down and look at the side of the table.

      As long as the surface is clean, you don’t need to do any surface prep in between layers.

      On a side note, I’m a big safety nut, and I wouldn’t feel right not telling you that your resins aren’t safe. They don’t have the ASTM D-4236 designation. Check out #7 in this article: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/buy-resin/

      If you decide that you want to use different resins for your project, Resin Obsession has safe resins that can help you make your table.

      Deep pour: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-deep-pour-resin
      Tabletop: https://shop.resinobsession.com/collections/resin/resin-obsession-artwork-resin

    • #175161
      Ron Marvin
      Guest

      hi,
      I am building a bar with a bar top of epoxy resin. 1/4 in thick pour on top of baseball card base. Sealed with several layers of mod podge. No seal coat as i used mod podge for that. 1/4 in pour called for 2.5 gallons of mixed epoxy. made three batches of one gallon each. First two batches have set beautifully (beyond expectations). The third batch i poured for the top is still sticky and uncured. I am sure I measured and mixed all batches the same. But maybe I did not, maybe the resin was bad. Either way, i need to fix it. The bad batch is in the middle of my tabletop. Will it ever cure? if it does not…it sounds like i need to scrape out the old resin and repour. i dont want to damage the cards. do i need to remove all of the uncured resin? To take it all off completely i would need to sand into the cards.
      Any advice would be helpful, as i spent a long time getting these cards on the base.
      Thanks

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