I am putting this step-by-step tutorial on this wonderful resin website for everyone interested in making their own pendants and wanting to work with transparencies. I could get no in-depth help from anyone on how to work with transparencies and add them to resin jewelry, so I decided to learn this process myself. It took time through trial and error to get as far as I am now. Lots of experiments went into the trash can. I tried different resins until I found one that worked wonderfully, thanks to Resin Obsession Super Clear Resin. It’s a fantastic jewelry resin!
After trying different transparencies, I found one that works well. I just wanted to make jewelry that I wanted and loved for myself and no one else. Since I cannot afford to purchase what I want, I learned how to create things I love. It is much cheaper to make it yourself if you have time and are a bit obsessive like I am. So here it is for everyone who wants to make their own resin pendants and personalize them with transparencies.
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Step 1: Create the artwork
You will have to decide what size and shape you want your pendant. After deciding on a mold, you will have to measure the inside of the mold you choose.
Then, you’ll need your artwork. Choose a photo – sketch – painting – or artwork you want to use to print onto the transparency. I suggest using your own pictures, drawings, photographs, or artworks. Due to copyright laws, I would not use anyone else’s artwork to put into the pendant. If you plan on selling your pendants, you will need to read up on copyright laws.
You can use many different types of photo programs to manipulate your picture. I took several photos at my family’s graveyard, where my mother is buried, then transferred my pictures onto my computer. I intensified the colors by using two different photo programs I got for free online. Then, I applied some cool effects. I urge you to intensify the colors in your photo, so you can see them better in your pendant.
After you are done with your photo manipulation, you will have to resize it so it will fit into your mold. Make enough photos to fill an entire page so you do not waste any of the transparencies When you are ready to print on your transparencies, make sure you adjust the printing preferences on your printer. And be sure to print on the correct side of the transparency. There is only one side you can print on. It will not be the shiny slick side; it will be the textured side. This is very important to making sure your transparencies look awesome in your resin!
Step 2: Cut Transparency to fit mold cavity
After I printed out my transparencies, I let them sit overnight in a place where fuzz and lint can not get on them. This is probably not necessary, but I take no chances. When I cut out my transparencies, I take them to a window where there is really bright light. I can see to cut them out better there.
Step 3: Add resin
I take my resin mold and put wax paper underneath it. This makes for easy cleanup because resin doesn’t stick to wax paper.
When I use epoxy resin, I have the temperature around 74 degrees. Mix the Super Clear Resin as two parts A to 1 part B. After I mix resin, I always let it rest for around 5 minutes. When I pour my resin, I pinch the side of the cup to get more control of the pour. I add about 1/8″ of resin on the bottom of my mold. Around 1/8″ gives a nice magnification of your transparency. If you have any bubbles, work them out with a toothpick or go over the surface with a heat gun.
Let the resin set up before you go to the next step.
Step 4: Inserting Transparency
Before you put in your transparencies, you will need to pour enough resin to coat the bottom. I usually put the printed side of the transparency face down. (Shiny side up – textured side down.) This will make a big difference if you have any words on your transparency. You don’t want your words backward. Put in your transparency and place it where you want with a toothpick. I usually push it down where the resin comes up over the top of the transparency and then center it. Next, I pour more resin onto the top and center it again. Let the pendant sit for at least 24 hours before popping it out.
This resin pendant mold is great for making your own resin pendants using transparencies. It has cast in place holes at the top, which means you won’t need to drill your pendants to add jump rings after demolding.
You may have to return after the resin has cured and top it off with more resin. Resin does shrink a little bit. By adding more resin, you do not have to sand the back edges. If you do not want to do that, you can come back after it has cured and pop it out. Then, take an emery board and file off the rough edges on the back. Always wear a mask if you do any sanding.
This is what it looks like against my white stove.
This is what it looks like held up to my window.
Step 5: Finishing
All I have to do to this piece to finish it up is drill a hole in it. You will need to mark where you want to drill the hole. I measure my pendant and put a tiny dot with my marker as a guide. Using a small hand drill, start with a very small drill bit and gradually increase the size till you get the hole size you need to be able to make the pendant wearable. Resin looks gorgeous on leather!
I hope this helps anyone to learn how to use transparencies in resin.
Ready to give this project a try but feel hesitant to get started?
I get it. I felt the same way when I was a resin beginner. It’s why I wrote the ebook, Resin Fundamentals. It has all the details I wish someone had told me when I started with epoxy resin. Buy a copy now, and you’ll get an email download link in minutes.
Originally written by Rona Phillips
Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2020 Resin Obsession, LLC