How to make a bracelet form for molding in silicone – bracelet mold making

bracelet mold makingThis tutorial is graciously shared by Rona Phillips. 

It is hard to find any tutorials on how to make a bracelet form for molding in silicone, so I thought I would create one to help out anyone who would like to do this. I wanted a mold that was tall enough and the shape I wanted to use to create resin bangles with transparencies. Plus, I wanted one that fit me perfectly, so I decided to figure it out for myself. I am a polymer clay artist so the first thing I thought of was polymer clay. It is easy to work with and it is cheap. I have also made bangles in polymer clay, so it was not hard to move it to the next step.


Material list:

-Premo Polymer Clay (any color) 3-2oz packages (More or less)
-Translucent Liquid Sculpey
-Wet dry sand paper (400 – 600 – 800 – 1200 – 1500 grit)
-Ceramic tile (big enough for bangle form to fit on) or oven-proof glass surface
-Cardboard poster tube (the ones they mail posters in)  Choose one that you can fit your hand through
-Repel Gel for polymer clay
-Plastic tub (I use 15oz butter tub) with bottom cut out
-Paper template
-Two sided tape (poster)

polymer clay pasta roller

-Silicone molding material of your choice
-Optional stamp with your name on it



bangle bracelet template supplies


-Pasta machine for Polymer clay
-Tissue Blade
-Wipe out tool
-Acrylic roller or knitting needle
-X-Acto craft knife

Cardboard tube


Cut off approximately 3 1/2 inches of the cardboard tube with your craft knife. Be very careful not to cut yourself!

Make a paper template using the cardboard tube with the length and height you need for your form.


cardboard tube

Coat the bottom ¾ of your cardboard cutout with 3 coats of Repel Gel with a paintbrush, letting it dry in between coats.


Rolling out the polymer Clay

It all depends on how wide and how tall you want to make a bracelet form for molding in silicone as to how much polymer clay you will need for this project. I buy polymer clay by the pound, which is really cheap.

-Start with clean hands and work area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. Do not place uncured clay on fine furniture.
-I don’t wear fluffy or furry clothes or anything that sheds a lot of fibers; otherwise I spend ages digging out bits from the clay.
-Chop up clay into little pieces. (At home I use a food processor.) The clay needs to become pliable. The more you work the clay the stronger it gets. Knead the clay – twist the clay – roll the clay.
-Flatten out the clay with your hands.
-Feed the clay through the pasta machine on the # 1 setting, which is the widest setting.

clay on roller

-I use a pasta machine to help me in making uniform sheets of clay.
-Roll out a long wide sheet of polymer clay.

cut with blade

Lay your paper template on top of the rolled-out polymer clay sheet. Use your tissue blade to cut out strip. Be careful because the tissue blade is sharp.

clay strip

I always cut ½ inch longer on both ends.

Forming the polymer clay

wrapping clay

Wrap the polymer clay sheet around the cardboard tube.

clay form template

Make sure to overlap your strips. Hold your tissue blade straight up and down and press in till you hit cardboard. Be careful as the tissue blade is sharp!

cut clay

Use your wipe out tool to smooth seams together.

Baking the polymer clay

baking clay

Bake on tile or oven-proof glass surface at 275 degrees for 30 minutes.

DO NOT BURN! The burnt fumes are not good for you to breathe in.

Remove from oven and let cool. You will have to remove the polymer clay bones from cardboard tube very carefully. You may have to slightly squeeze the top of the cardboard tube to pop the polymer clay away from the tube.

Like this post? You may be interested in  Neon ombre resin cuff bracelet - make a resin bracelet

clay template

Then, very slowly pull the polymer clay down off the tube. Take your time and remove it slowly.  I call this first layer of polymer clay the bones.

cutting clay with template

You will have to make a 2nd polymer clay strip to cover the bones. Cut it out using your template and lay the strip aside.

glue on clay

Apply the liquid polymer clay to the outside of the bones.

smooth on

With your fingers, smooth the liquid polymer clay over the outside of the bones.

clay model

Wrap the polymer clay sheet around the bones.


Make sure to overlap your strip.

cut with blade

Hold your tissue blade straight up and down and press in till you hit the bones. Be careful not to cut the bones or your fingers.

cutting clay

Use an acrylic roller and to smooth the seam. You will need to be very light-handed on the outside polymer clay sheet, otherwise, you will have dings or dents on your form.

clay form

Before you put your form in the oven you will need to take your name stamp and press it into your form.  Bake on tile or oven-proof glass surface at 275 degrees for 30 minutes.


After you remove your form from the oven, let it completely cool. You will now start the sanding process.  To sand polymer clay, do it underwater with a dash of dish soap, using wet dry sandpaper 400-600-800-1200-1500. If you see any cracks or flaws in your form in the sanding process, you will need to fill them in with more polymer clay. Rebake on tile or oven-proof glass surface at 275 degrees for 15 minutes. Then, you will then start the sanding process all over again.

After finishing the sanding process, you will have to buff until the surface is smooth and shiny. The smoother your form, the smoother your mold and resin castings will be.


bracelet form

Put double-sided tape on the top of your form. Overlap the double sides tape until the top edges are covered.

mold making

Take the butter tub lid and center your form, tape side down. Make sure the tape is secured to the butter top lid and your form.  You will have to read on your instructions for your molding materials on how much space you will need between your form and the butter tub, to make a good strong mold.

make a silicone mold

Snap on your bottomless butter tub to the butter tub lid. Make sure it is secure or you will have a huge mess when you start to pour your silicone molding material.

molding with a margarine tub

Here is a side view.  You are now ready to start the molding process. Follow the directions of the molding materials you decide to use.

silicone mold

This is what my mold looks like after I have removed it from the butter tub and removed my form.

With this tutorial, you will be able to make a bracelet form for molding in silicone. You can make it to fit your wrist size. You can make it tall – short – fat – skinny. Or, you could adapt it for a two or three part mold. I bet you could even create different textured if you wanted to! With polymer clay, I have created all kinds of forms for my molds. (Rings – Bangle – Beads – Hearts – Pendants – Mobiles etc …) You are now ready to make a bracelet form for molding in silicone. *hugz*

Want to see how to cast your bangle?  See Rona’s tutorial on How to create a resin bangle bracelet using transparencies.

There’s an amazing resin jewelry maker inside of you just waiting to get out!  How do you get there?  Start with getting a copy of my instantly readable PDF ebook, Resin Jewelry Making.  I wrote it with the resin beginner in mind to give you a clear path on how to make resin jewelry you can keep, share or even sell!

Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2020 Resin Obsession, LLC

15 thoughts on “How to make a bracelet form for molding in silicone – bracelet mold making

  1. Rona, I don’t have any experience with polymer clay. Could you stop with the first ‘bones’ and cast that? Do you have to put the next layer onto it?

  2. Yes Katherine, you could stop with the 1st bones. But you will have to sand with the wet dry sand paper 400-600-800-1200-1500 to make sure it is very smooth. Just remember to be careful and use an easy hand so you don’t break it. After you make your mold you could acually continue with the tut above and have a two part mold for different colors in you bangle.

  3. Hello, I love how you use a stamp to put your name on it. What kind of stamp is it? and where do you get them made?

  4. There are many, many ways to transfer imeags. One easy way to transfer copies of actual photos is as follows: Make an inkjet copy of your photo onto t-shirt transfer copy paper. Cut out the part of the image that you want to transfer, put your conditioned clay on a tile or other baking surface (you don’t want to move your clay after burnishing your copy to it) put your copy on the clay and burnish it with a knitting needle or similar burnisher. After you have it well burnished so that the whole image is touching the clay, set it aside for one hour. Then, bake in a 266 degrees F for 5 minutes. Then carefully peel back the copy paper and your picture should be on your clay. You can then place that on other clay or however you need to complete your item or just bake it for the remaining time, following the clay manufacturer’s directions. Another way to make a transfer is to make a black and white copy, color it in with colored pencils, staying inside the lines, unlike grade school, it really does matter so that your lines will show up on the clay ; ), and burnish that to your clay surface on your baking surface, and then bake for 10 minutes, or more (see below) at the manufacturer’s directions. Then carefully peel off the paper and your picture will be transfered onto the clay. The timing on this may vary, depending on the brand of pencils you use, I usually lift up just a tiny bit on a corner of the paper to see if it’s transfered enough. You can just do a small piece of clay with a test scribble of paper on it to check the transfer rather than using your design until you know how your pencils transfer. Most of the books available have copy methods, and almost all of them are different, some using toner copies, some with water-slide transfers, others use gin to remove the paper from the clay. If you Google “transfer imeags polymer clay,” you will find a lot of information available. It’s so wonderful that polymer clay artists are so willing to share their knowledge, there is a plethora of information available on-line. If you check out, you will find a wealth of information available, and almost any pc question you could think of is answered at A great, caring group of which I’m a member is yahoo group, CITY-o-Clay. I hope this helps. Have fun!Smiles, Sue

  5. Oh! I use them all, you should see my stamp ctoleclion. metal, mounted, unmounted, wooden backed, anything that has a pattern that I like. You just have to practice not pushing too hard and using deeply etched stamps. practice, practice, practice.

  6. I can see how this could be used to make a hinged bangle, cutting the clay in two pieces and draping them over the cardboard form to bake it, then making a double mold or two molds after sanding. I wonder if Composimold would be good for this?

  7. Hi Kathrin, I am trying to make a bangle with your bangle molds. Iput colorant in the resin and add two drops to resin and add extra hardener to it also. However, it is sticky when i get it out. I let it cure for 7 days. I’m at a loss as to what is wrong.

    1. Unless the mold template has a highly polished surface, the mold surface won’t have a shiny surface either.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *