5 Resin Casting Tips Every Artist Needs To Know

tips for casting resin in silicone molds
Using resin for jewelry and crafts can be intimidating, especially if you are a resin beginner. Recently, I asked Tania of House of Molds to share some of her best resin casting tips to help crafters and jewelry makers get excellent results with silicone molds.

1. Wear gloves when handling molds and pouring resin.

Not only do they protect your hands from resin chemicals, but they also prevent fingerprints inside the molds.  Sometimes these fingerprints can show up on your resin castings.

💡 Pro tip:  The more glossy the mold surface, the easier it is to leave a visible fingerprint on the mold.

2.  Be sure your mold is clean before casting.

You do not want any dust or resin from a previous casting inside the cavity. These will cast into your next piece.


3.  Take care when positioning your mold.

If your casting table has a rough surface or a non-level top, your resin piece could be uneven, despite using a perfect mold and the best resin supplies. You can best prepare a crafting surface for your molds by using a bubble level to check your table level.

4.  Don’t overfill the mold.

Unless of course, you don’t mind resin sanding once your piece is dry.

In the case of resin voids, you can make a second resin pouring anytime by following these rules

*Make it when your resin is still at the gel stage
*Use the same brand of resin
*Pour the next layer before demolding

5.  For help when demolding, gently press the mold, then add a drop of soapy water inside.

Press again and push the object out from the bottom of the mold. This will make resin extraction from the mold easy and quick.

Here’s how:

Ready to try resin casting molds, but don’t know where to start?

Trying to learn all the resin casting tips can take you down a rabbit hole for hours and leaves you no closer to getting started.  It’s why I wrote the ebook Resin Fundamentals.  I share the small but important points you need to know to make something with resin that has people saying, ‘WOW!’.  Buy the PDF book, and you can have it to read in minutes.

Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2023 Resin Obsession, LLC

Like this post? You may be interested in  6 Hacks For How To Get Resin Out Of A Mold

40 thoughts on “5 Resin Casting Tips Every Artist Needs To Know

  1. Hi, I would like a teardrop shaped mold to produce a pendant.
    I wish to embed a piece of exotic wood in the teardrop.
    How can I make or find a mold that will not have a seam as when 2 halves are joined?

    Do you have such a mold I can buy?

      1. Hi Katherine;
        A 3D teardrop would be first choice.

        I see how a flat backed pendant could be a one piece mold, easier for pouring?

        Will a wooden artifact float in the resin, or stay where it is placed?


        1. You can do a 3D mold, but it will either need to be a two part mold, or a single mold with a split down the side to allow you to get the casting out. You can see an example of the latter in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNSvffZ-il4&t=3s

          As for ‘floating’ I’m not sure about wood as I haven’t worked with it in resin much. If you want to be sure the wooden piece sits in a particular spot in your casting. I would suggest pouring in layers. You can see what I’m talking about in this article: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-tutorials/button-bangle-resin-bracelet-tutorial

        2. Since it appears that no one here fully answered you Jim;
          A 3D is possible – you will need to do some work to remove the sprue or funnel mark after curing for this option.
          A flat back is always easier (really think about how you want the piece to sit…if it’s really a full teardrop, it will stand up off the chest a bit and tend to turn or roll to the side…do your inclusions or what have you that you plan to use in the pendant make that a thing that you actually want?) Flats are easier in almost every respect in my experience…
          Any artifact (assuming proper sealing whatever it is) can either sit or float depending on your technique while casting) People tend to grossly underestimate the sheet amount of planning that resin takes IMO. I have a full set up for vacuum and have actually cast (including mold making) WAY less that I wanted to as well as way more than I wanted to. I believe the amount of research, trial and error and supplies for doing all of the above are the reason most non-industrial makers either hold onto some strategic info and other quality effecting ‘secrets’ – even on blogs such as this one.
          Hope this info helps you plan your resin-making moves!

          1. …which is a shame. we are all artists, and crafters, and as such, should be happy to share our experiences, successes, and also our failures, and revelations.
            one thing i would like to share, which is a bit off topic, for this thread, but i have seen so little info on it, that i am taking every opportunity to share is when working with silicone molds, and epoxy resin; if you are using a mold that it not polished (shiny) on the inside, your project will come out looking cloudy. to fix this, all you need to do is paint a top coat (on the bottom side of your mold) with a thin coat of epoxy. i have read where people do a bunch of sanding, and/or polishing, etc.. but im all about the easiest way of accomplishing the task at hand! Lol. …or you can try to find/make molds that come shiny inside the mold.
            Happy Crafting!

  2. That depends on the weight of the wood. I find it best to weight the pc of wood down. use a toothpick with some weight on the outside of the mold.

    1. I disagree ‘mostly’ with the above statement. IF actual weight was an issue for any inclusion (attributing proper sealing of course) a caster would simply use a layered pouring method over weighing something down…I can understand the concept as a concept but can’t think of anything that would make that ‘technique’ preferable. When one says you ‘can’ do a thing it doesn’t technically mean that it is what you ‘should do’ in a particular situation for a particular effect.
      Resin is one of the few mediums that I have worked in that I hesitate to just work with any info that isn’t at least a paragraph long with explanations such as this since so many factors affect the end results. At least that’s my experience and opinion – this isn’t my website tho…:) happy casting!

  3. Could you tell me where I can buy silicone molds for resin jewellery (bracelet in particular) in South Africa?

  4. I had a very difficult time getting a pendant out of a silicon tubular mold. Is there an easy way to get the pice out? The mold was a half inch in diameter and 2 inches long. I embedded some Austrian crystals and its was beautiful but getting it out was incredibly tough and it broke leaving half inside. I ended up flipping the mold inside out but now have fingerprints inside. How do I get those out?

    1. Sometimes it will work where you can introduce a drop of dish soap in between the casting and the mold to help you get it out. Try some denatured alcohol to remove the fingerprints.

  5. Hello..i am searching forum those beautifull silver end with rings on it…to adjust to a necklace . Where van i buy those??

  6. What is the best way to insert a finding when using a mold? Particularly the screw in one? I would think it would be hard to get it to stay standing straight if you put it in before the resin cured

    1. The only sure way is to layer the area of inclusion so that the finding is either gravity held or holds on it’s own or with slight help in the first pour and then is partially cast in place for the second pour. I would think that the type of finding and the location in relation to the liquid resin (including if the resin will have any flat side or part-line) would dictate which method is best in your particular project. Of course this is not my site so I offer info simply a a fellow caster wanting to try to be helpful. Happy casting!

  7. hi Katherine, I’m having an issue with the molds. I find the cured resin piece is beautiful and shiny on the top, but everywhere the resin touches the mold, it is cloudy and not smooth.

    1. Hi Tamara, it sounds like the template that was used to make your model was not shiny. If it wasn’t shiny, the surface of subsequent castings won’t be either.

      1. OR…there is something impeding the shine. The surface tension of the original SHOULD provide the shine naturally as Katherine notes above…this is a huge part of why resin works for us…but everything from improper mold making to a release agent inappropriate to preserving contact shine CAN interfere. This is not my web site and I offer my opinion only as a fellow caster courtesy. Happy Casting!

  8. Hi there,
    I have 2 questions regarding the Italian clear silicone molds you sell on the site:
    1) Are they made so that you’re resin casting come out crystal clear (provided you followed procedures properly)?
    And 2) do you need a releasing agent, and if so they recommend one that has natural wax base. Do you carry a releasing agent fitting that description and if not do you know where we can find a good one and what it’s called?


  9. I recently purchased a House of Molds 3D pendant mold but it isn’t split at the top (very small opening which widens in the mold). Before I pull out my Exacto knife, what is recommended? The opening is too small to put some inclusions in. I don’t want to mess it up…

    Thank you!

  10. Not sure this is where to ask a new question, but……
    I want to make a silicone mold of a neat rock I have. Should I coat the rock with something so it doesn’t completely stick to the mold ? I will be using Alumilite Amazing Mold Making Putty. TIA !

  11. Hey Kath – Any idea where to locate the pendant findings used in the picture? I’m looking for the silver piece (bail? bezel?) at the top of the resin piece. Great article, as always!

    OMG It just hit me…is that a regular silver bezel? Possibly the deep bezel? THAT IS BRILLIANT. If I’m wrong please let me know – but I think I figured it out. Love the creative use!

    1. Hi Queen Katherine 😉

      Yes, this is a regular silver bezel. Deep bezels would be even better.

  12. Hi, I am new to resin and have bought some molds to try. Pieces which I cast came out clean and glossy but wasn’t flat(curved inwards) although the inside of the mold seems flat to me. I have placed the mold on a flat surface before pouring and never move it until I de-mold.
    May I know
    – is there anyway to “flatten” the inside of the mold to ensure a flat surface finish?
    – how should I “fill” and make the curved part flat again now that they have been de-mold?

    Thank you in advance!

  13. Hello, I am new to resin, and have been looking for a rectangular mold that measures at least 7” x 4” and with a depth of at least 2”

    The depth has been the most difficult part. It seems like there is just nothing out there. Every mold is so tiny. Am I missing something? Perhaps larger molds introduce problems? Thanks for your expertise.

  14. If I want to make a larger rectangular piece, can I create a mold from say wood or pvc and then line it with shiny acetate sheets? I can’t find a silicone mold that is large enough, and I don’t want to spend $100 + for mold making kits.


  15. I have some silicone moulds currently, but I have noticed I am getting marks on my resin from the bottom of the mold. Do you know why this would be?

  16. i bought some molds but dont know how or what im supposed to use to make the products could anyone please help me

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