Resin cuff bracelet

How to make a resin cuff bracelet

resin cuff bracelet DIY

by Mylene Hillam

Supply list:

FastCast quick-curing resin
Piñata Alcohol Ink: Señorita Magenta
Silicone Hot Mat
Sulfur free soft plasticine
Basic clay tools
Craft heat tool
Metal cuff blank
Eight to ten 1 ounce graduated measuring cups
2 oz graduated measuring cup
Eight to ten 3 ml transfer pipettes
Stir sticks
Wet/dry sandpaper: 180 grit and 400 grit
Elastic bands
Packing tape
Utility knife

Designer’s Notes: FastCast is very fast curing so you need to have everything ready before you start measuring out the resin. You need to work quickly for this project, and you won’t have time to do the double-mixing recommended in the instructions.  Make sure that you mix the two parts together thoroughly, scraping the walls and bottom of the cup during the mixing process. Once the two parts have been measured out, you have just 2 to 3 minutes to mix it, draw it into the pipette and dispense it before the resin begins to set up.

tape applied to silicone mat

Step 1

Place the silicone mat on your work surface with the ripples running horizontally.  Apply a piece of packing tape from the top to the bottom, then place another piece of tape two inches away from the first piece.  These will act as guidelines to help you keep the edges of your piping straight.  For a narrower bangle, place the pieces of tape closer together.

measuring resin into a mixing cup

Step 2

Measure out 2 1/2 milliliters of each part of FastCast in one cup.

mixing resin

Step 3

Mix the two parts together.  Once mixed, scrape the walls and bottom of the cup to free any unmixed resin and mix that in thoroughly.

adding resin to a silicone mat

Step 4

Draw the resin into a pipette and squeeze it into the ripples on the silicone mat between the tape.  Try to keep clear of the tape because resin will seep underneath it.  As the resin begins to thicken a little, you will find it easier to control the resin but if you let it thicken too much you won’t be able to pipe it out.  Repeat steps 2 to 4 for as many batches as you need to fill the mat.

Designer’s Note:  The silicone mat shown here is 8 1/2 inches long.  You may not need to fill the full length of the mat to fit your wrist.

removing extra resin

If you have any strips that seeped under the tape, peel the tape back and remove these pieces once the resin has cured.

resin on silicone mat

Step 5

Mix up another batch of resin and refill these strips.

clay dam to hold back resin

Step 6

Remove the tape from the silicone mat.  Shape the plasticine into four strips:

  • * two strips 1/4 inch thick by 8 inches long
  • * two strips 1/4 inch thick by 3 1/2 inches long

Place them around the resin leaving a border of approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch all the way around.  Press the resin firmly down into the ripples and then smooth out any bulges in the walls with the sculpting tools.

clay dam around resin

Press the corners of the plasticine together so that the resin cannot seep out.

measuring resin

Step 7

Measure out 20 milliliters of Part A (amber part) and color it with 24 drops of alcohol ink (6 drops per 10 milliliters of mixed resin).  Mix the color in thoroughly.  Measure out 20 milliliters Part B and mix the two parts together thoroughly, scraping the walls and bottom of the cup.

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pouring resin onto a silicone mold

Pour the colored resin across the white strips.  Cover the base of the mold to a depth of approximately 1/8 inch.  You will probably have some resin left in the cup which you can use in another mold.  Leave the resin to cure for approximately 20 minutes.

demolding resin

Step 8

Peel the silicone mat away from the resin and plasticine.

peeling away clay from resin

Step 9

Pull the plasticine away from the resin and clean up any stray bits.

trimming excess resin

Step 10

Trim away the flashing with the utility knife.

trimming excess resin

There will be a meniscus on the back of the resin cuff along the edges.  This will be quite sharp so you need to trim it away with the utility knife until it is flush with the back of the bracelet.  Use wet and dry sandpaper to smooth the cut edges, starting with 180 grit and finishing with 400 grit.

warming cured resin with a hair dryer

Step 11

Warm the strip of cured resin on both the front and the back with the heat tool to make it soft.  Alternatively, you can place the resin in a hot water bath to soften it.

form resin around a template

Step 12

Place the metal cuff blank on the center of the resin strip and wrap the resin around the curve.

applying rubber bands to hold resin in shape

Once it has cooled a little, test the cuff on your wrist and adjust the shape to suit your wrist. Place it back on your work space and place an elastic band around it to keep it in shape until it cools completely.

pink and white resin cuff bracelet

My resin cuff bracelet is finished!  I can’t wait to wear it.


Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2018 Resin Obsession, LLC



I love using fast curing resin also for many reasons. But does anyone else have a problem with it randomly destroying a mold? I use an excellent spray, from RO, to avoid this but it still will happen. It is always a mold I love too!

Katherine Swift

Fast curing resins heat up to a higher temperature after mixing than epoxies do. It’s possible that the mold doesn’t like the higher temps.

Darla Meng

You have to be careful with some of the fast curing ones, especially East Cast. They turn yellowish after about a year. I prefer ArtResin or IceResin, better grade, so never yellows. Just hate the long cure time.

Katherine Swift

Hi Darla, Easy Cast is not a fast curing resin. Could you be thinking of a different brand?


Wouldn’t the bracelet be difficult to get on it would be hard texture to get you hand into?


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