Hello Resin Obsession fans! Karen Bearse here with a new experiment/play time using stamp pads as resin molds. I have had this idea for a while speculating in my brain. Today, I decided to act on it!
- -Amazing Casting Resin
- -Casting Supplies- measure cup, gloves, stir stick, timer.
- -A variety of stamps- I used rubber, clear and foam.
- -Mold Release
- -Parchment paper
I had a few questions that needed answers like:
- 1-Which stamps will work with Resin? Red rubber, white rubber, clear, cheap stamps, etc.
- 2-Will the resin stick to the stamp and damage it?
- 3-Do I have to use a mold release?
- 4-Will the stamp still work after having resin on it?
I gathered my supplies and had some extra molds on the side in case I poured too much resin. The Alumilite Amazing casting resin cures in ten minutes, which gives me quicker results from my experiments. Don’t use your favorite stamps unless you are willing to damage them.
First, I took stamps made of different materials: Red and white rubber, foam and clear. I spritzed them with Mold Release and let them dry.
I find if you don’t let the spray dry, lots of bubbles are created. (Alumilite Amazing casting resin is a polyurethane resin and very moisture sensitive.) Have all your materials ready to go, especially with this type of resin as it has a short one minute work time. It is better to do smaller pours well than try to mass produce with this product, as it just cures too quickly. The bonus, of course, is being not having to wait to see the result. Well worth it!
Next, add 1 part of each of Part A and Part B of the resin (it mixes 1:1), then mix with a stir stick. Stir time is 30 seconds, but I realized what you are looking for is to mix until the swirls are clear. The resin should also begin heating up in the cup. Pour over the stamp. It is hard not to have the resin pour over the edges but this is okay since the resin will just peel away.
You can see here that the resin is starting to cure. Wait until the resin turns white, which should take 5 to 15 minutes depending on the temperature in the room and humidity level. If your resin does not cure, there are instructions in the package on how to get your resin to cure fully. It is easier to pull the resin when it is still slightly soft and no longer warm.
Note: These times listed here are specific for using the quick-curing Amazing casting resin.
You do want a thick enough layer to get a good impression. Pop the air bubbles with a pin and a low blowing heat or embossing gun, like the Wow embossing heat tool. The challenge is once the resin starts to set (in just a few minutes) it is hard to pop the bubbles. Also, the heat makes the resin cure more quickly. I realized I would rather just let the bubbles occur as they don’t bother me. Plus, I intend on coloring these pieces so the bubbles will not be noticeable. On a number of my stamps, I realized the bubble impression was actually from the stamp as this one above by Carabelle Studio!
Once the resin has cured, carefully peel the resin away from the stamp. You may get a bit of separation of the foam from the rubber but that doesn’t bother me as I can always re-glue it. In some cases, if there was resin on the edge of the stamp, it did pull some of the foam. I have left the resin on the edges instead thinking it may actually protect the stamp. Time will tell! Again, if you are worried about ruining your stamp, use some that you can part with first to see the results.
Here is what happens when the stamp is not clean and there is dust on it. I say ‘cleanish’ because I wet the stamp and cleaned it with a rag that had some very faint paint on it which was picked up on the resin. Oops. The stamp is Seth Apter by PaperArtsy.
I was kind of amazed with the results and the quality of impressions with the variety of stamps of different thicknesses and details. The stamp that kind of shocked me on how well it worked, was the super detailed yet shallow stamp by Anne Butler. It created a perfect impression.
If the stamp is deeper cut, it will most likely need two pours to cover. I have learned that Amazing Casting Resin does not dome. Therefore, when poured, the resin fills the cavity of the stamp, but does not sit on top of the stamp. This leaves the higher peaks of the stamp bare. The solution is once the resin hardens a bit a second pour will sit on top of the first, covering the higher areas.
Here are some of the resin pieces with the stamps and their stamped images. After using the stamps as molds, I stamped them with Distress Ink and was very happy to find that the resin does not seem to damage the stamps. The star is Seth Apter by PaperArtsy, the square is Anne Butler by Colorbox, and the butterfly is Darkroom Door.
If you are only pouring on part of a larger stamp, try to keep the edges of the pour clean and thick. Drips and thin layers are harder to get off of your stamp. The stamp above Lynne Perrella by PaperArtsy.
Here’s what I learned from my stamp pads as resin molds experiments:
*Removing resin from the stamp when it is still a bit soft works better and means easier removal. Bonus — you can still trim the edges if you need to.
*If there is ink on the stamp, even archival, it will come off with the resin. This is a cool effect and will be investigated further in a future post. If you want a clean image, the stamp must have no residual ink on it.
*I forgot a number of times to use the mold release spray on the rubber stamps yet the resin still released from the stamp without a problem.
*On a larger stamp, pour resin down the middle and let it move naturally to the sides. You can add more resin if needed or even do a second pour if the stamp is not completely covered.
*The resin came off the back of stamps that had a grey backing without a problem. However it was hard to get off the stamps that were backed in black (Unity Stamps). Simply give the back a spritz of mold release.
Thanks so much for joining me today. I will be making mixed media projects with these resin pieces, if you want to check out my blog and follow for new posts. I hope you get to play today!
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