DIY Ombre resin charms – How to make resin charms

ombre resin charms

After being a smidge disappointed with my bi-color resin earrings tutorial results from a couple of weeks ago, I wanted to try making ombre resin charms again with a couple of technique adjustments.  This time, I wanted to get the ombre effect in the resin from the center outwards.  To do this, I knew I was going to need a ‘guide’ of sorts to help direct the resin.

using calipers to mark silver tube

I went to my metal collection and found a section of 5/8 inch wide silver tube that I thought would be a good fit for the one inch round circle silicone mold I was going to use.  Note:  The tube didn’t have to be silver.  Other metals such as brass or copper would work fine (and be cheaper) as well.

I used metal calipers to mark equal sections of the tube.  I made sure the sections would be taller than the sides of the silicone mold.  (More on that later.)

using a metal tube cutter


Cutting metal tube can be downright tedious.  I like to use a tube cutter jig, available at home improvement stores, to help me make an even cut.  Line up the score mark with the blade and twist to cut the metal.


Sanding metal tube


The tube cutter is going to leave burs on the inside of the metal tube.  You will need to sand them down with coarse-grit sandpaper.

place tube in silicone mold

I placed the cut tube sections inside the silicone mold cavities.  No measurements here — I just eyeballed it.

Not shown:  I prepped the mold with a light layer of the Ultralease mold release and allowed it to dry 30 minutes before placing the tubes.


mixing resin

I mixed up two batches of Resin Obsession super clear resin (15 ml each) and used Resin Obsession opaque color pigments in purple and magenta to color the resin.  After mixing the resin, I decided to wait to pour it.  I wanted the resin to be close to curing so that there would be less mixing between the two colors.

The first time I did this, I waited until 45 minutes after mixing (the super clear resin has a 25 minute pot time) to start pouring.  That turned out to be the biggest resin mistake I can ever recall making.  To say I had a sticky, gooey, taffy pulling, spider web looking resin mess is beyond an understatement.  It was the consistency of bubble gum and pouring out in globs. The more I tried to  work it, the worse it got.  I would have loved to share pictures with you, but there was no way that I was going to touch my camera with that goop on my gloves (and resin table and mold and stir stix and … well you get the picture).

So, for the second time around, I mixed the resin and set a timer at the beginning of the mixing.  At twenty minutes, I started pouring the resin into the mold.

pouring purple resin


This time, I fared much better with my resin charms.  I poured the inside first.  At this point, the resin was the consistency of syrup and was noticeably thicker than it normally is when it is first mixed.

pour pink resin


I poured the pink resin next.


removing tube from resin

When the timer signaled 30 minutes after mixing, I started removing the tubes from the resin.  The reason I cut the tubes taller than the cavities was that I knew the resin would be thick.  I didn’t want to poke my tweezers into the resin to pull out the metal because it would likely introduce more bubbles.  After pulling the tubes out, I threw them into a plastic cup filled with acetone.  After soaking for 30 minutes, they were completely clean of resin.

On a side note, you can see the cavities where I have already pulled the tubes, there isn’t much purple color on top.  I noticed as I was removing the tubes, the tube pulled the pink ‘over’ the purple.  I wish I could explain exactly what happened.  Note to self:  I should have paid more attention in physics class.

bubbles in resin


I also had some pretty big bubbles to deal with.  I was not able to pop them with my tweezers.  The only way I could get these out was to go over them with my heat gun.

ombre resin charms


After demolding the resin charms 24 hours later, I was pleasantly surprised with the finished castings.  I love the definition between the two colors!  Maybe next time, I would try a smaller diameter tube knowing the color will spread out that much.


resin castings with bubbles

On a technical note, the backside of my castings still had cavities from the bubbles.  Even though the bubbles popped by using the heat gun, the cavity remained.  I can sand these down to make them flat.

Is making ombre resin charms something you would try?

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Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2020 Resin Obsession, LLC

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10 thoughts on “DIY Ombre resin charms – How to make resin charms

  1. Didnt the resin first pour seep out under the tubing. How did you keep it from seeping into the outer edge.

  2. I have been able to achieve an ombre effect with translucent colors. I choose colors that would typically mix well together for instance yellow and red making orange. The way I achieve this is by taking my mold and tipping it in one direction and poor my resin, let it cure completely. Then I tip the mold in the opposite direction and pour my second color. After it has cured and you demold the resin, when you look through the two colors in the middle a third color emerges.

  3. What difference might it make to use the Petrolease on the tubing? Would it make the colors merge too fast? Just wondering.

  4. wauw i love the way your pieces came out…i think with my resin (crystal clear cleopatre resin) it wouldn´t work because it takes a long time to get thick…have you got any tips for that? also what bothers me a bit with this resin is that when i use glitter it almost always goes to the bottom of the mold because of it beeing so liquid…

    1. Let the resin set up before you add glitter and use a toothpick to check it. Then if toothpick does not go to bottom glitter won’t either. The key to adding colors is let some areas set as if its too water like it all just goes to bottom. But I he thicker resin becomes the more bubbles. So if that’s an issue pour your second layer next day

    2. I don’t know the resin but the glitter sinks unless it’s micro fine glitter that is used for polymer clay, not the same as children’s craft glitter

  5. I saw a tutorial on how to get rid of the edge without sanding. I use a dome pad, slowly pour the resin until it meets the edge. It will find its own edge and dome before it spills over. Awesome trick.

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