3 Resin Problems No One Wants To Talk About

the truth about resin
Hi. My name is Katherine and I have a resin obsession.

But that’s not why you’re here, is it?

Like if you wanted to know how to use epoxy as glue or the best resin jewelry molds, you wouldn’t have ended up on this specific page.

Nope. I’m guessing you’re here because you’re having resin problems.

Which makes me a little sad.

Because crafting time good for your mental health. And to hear you made something less than the amazing picture in your head makes me glum.

But here’s the thing. Not everyone tells you the truth about what to expect when you use epoxy resin. It’s my mission for you to have the best time with epoxy, even if you don’t buy resin from Resin Obsession.

That’s why I want to tell you about three resin problems no one else will tell you about.

All resins will yellow with time.

yellow resin

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but your clear resin castings will yellow over time. Resins with UV inhibitors and HALS stabilizers help extend the time before yellowing occurs. But,

  • Mixing off ratio (even though it still can cure without tackiness)
  • Pouring your resin over improperly cured lacquer
  • Excessive heat
  • Constant sunlight exposure

speeds up the yellowing process. Knowing how long a resin will stay clear is impossible to predict.

And if you don’t want it anymore, here’s what you can do with your yellowing epoxy.

There is no one size fits all resin.

pouring resin into a silicone mold

In other words, no resin will work for every single resin project out there.

Despite what you may see or read.

I wish I could tell you that every resin company was honest about how to get the best results with epoxy. They either don’t understand their product or are more focused on making a sale.

I know this because a lot of these people come to Resin Obsession for help.

So how do you know what resin to use?

Here’s how to choose the best epoxy resin for your project.

Your technique is everything to avoiding resin problems.

cutting bubbles out of epoxy

I admit it.

I go overboard when sharing resin tutorials.

It’s because I feel frustrated.

Frustrated when I see other people showing you two to three steps or a 15-second video.  Then, TADA! You’re supposed to have something gorgeous.

Instead, you’ve got a bubbly, half-cured mess.

While I don’t have resin problems now, I had a BUNCH when I started as a resin artist. I’ll never forget the anguish, ugly cry tears, and shrieking, ‘Why is this happening to me?!!!’

So how do you learn resin techniques?

Well–you guessed it–I’ve written a bunch of those resources too. 😂

Here are some of the most popular:

Basic tips to learn resin casting without driving yourself crazy

✅ A beginner’s guide to epoxy resin for crafts

✅ 10 pro tips for resin success

What’s the best advice I can give you about achieving resin success and avoiding resin problems?

If you are serious about becoming a skilled resin artist, you need to do everything you can to learn about resin. That includes surrounding yourself with helpful resin information. Knowing everything you can about resin before you take on an epoxy project will save you tons of

Like this post? You may be interested in  9 Facts Everyone Should Know About Resin Safety

time
money
and your sanity.

But in the case that you do make mistakes, make them an opportunity to learn. I’ve learned more from my resin mistakes than my resin successes. Enjoy the journey.

Want more help with your resin problems?

Get more of my best advice from my decade-plus experience with resin. I wrote the book, Resin Fundamentals, with the beginner in mind. I’ve included the essential things beginners need to know to create with resin. Buy the ebook now and get a download link in minutes.

Unpublished Blog Posts of Resin Obsession, LLC © 2022 Resin Obsession, LLC

54 thoughts on “3 Resin Problems No One Wants To Talk About

  1. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. As a beginner, I enjoy reading your emails and I am thankful for such service.

  2. Thanks for the information. When you mention resin will yellow over time, do you mean the raw material liquid or do you mean the finished product? If you mean the finished product, roughly how long should we expect the finished product to stay clear? Years? Decades? Thanks

    1. I’ve been actively moving forward to learn as much as I can before I step all in! On some level of all of this, it’s a little discouraging that my projects will yellow over time, no matter what I do! Is there a limit as to how much they will yellow? My concern is using resin on some personal artwork.

  3. I love your newsletters, but you REALLY need to restock the store. It’s difficult to purchase when 3/4 of what a customer is interested in is sold out.

    1. Hi Cindy, you’re right. We are out of stock of a lot of items at the moment. Unfortunately, the companies we work with are being affected by the COVID-19 outbreak. Everyone is working as quickly and efficiently as possible during this rather unusual time, but I’m afraid that it’s taking us longer than usual to restock products. I appreciate that you are eager to get started with resin and please know that we are doing everything we can to get items back in stock as quickly as possible.

      We update expected restock dates if we know them. If you click on a specific listing, that date will be shown with the product information.

  4. I am new to resin – haven’t gotten the courage to start yet, but I want to use an old window to glue down flat glass pebbles and broken glass to create a beautiful window to hang on my screened in porch. I have researched until I’m tired of researching, and can’t seem to find anyone that discusses much about this technique – as in what type resin, tips on pouring resin fir this, etc. I know how to create the design, and that I glue all glass down first, but the last step – the resin, I just can’t find much detail and/or instructions. Can you offer any help? Thank you.

    1. Hi Karen, you can buy ‘fireglass’ which has a reflective coating on the back, like mirror, it looks wonderful in resin work. For your window, you don’t need glue, the resin will hold it all in place, arrange your glass and drizzle resin around the pieces to secure them, not too much or it will remove the shine from the glass. I buy one kilo of fireglass for sixteen dollars from Aussie glass on Ebay in many colours, love it. Much easier than breaking the glass pebbles up! There are many types of resin but I like the ones that are 50/50 as it is easier to be accurate, so that is half resin hardener and half resin base – you buy them as a set. Stir together for 3 mins, 20 mins working time. U tube will give you a million ideas to try! If you have a window frame already it will make your project so easy as the resin will set everything in the frame. If your not happy with your finish, do a second coat and use your gas bottle to make sure you get rid of any bubbles. Keep everything level as resin is self-leveling and place immediately in a dust free environment to leave to dry for at least 24 hours before you have a peep! Good luck!

    1. Hi Chris, I like to use a baby wipe or pumice soap. Don’t use solvents because they can cause a reaction.

    2. I just use my Isopropyl alcohol on a piece of paper towel for hands and all resin clean up. Then wash hands thoroughly with soap and warm water to remove any left over. I love Iso, use it for cleaning in my home as well, I do floors with it and polish my kitchen bench tops with it too! Just don’t breath it in please. I buy 4 Litres for $50 from Ebay. I also made my own sanitizer with 2/3 iso and 1/3 pure aloe vera in a squeezy bottle for hands. Good luck!

  5. Hi there, I am new and at the stage of gathering information – I havent even purchased resin yet as I am not sure that I know enough yet to actually get started!

  6. Hi, I’m a beginner with resin and just loving the process of experimenting and learning at the moment and your site have been invaluable, thank you.
    One of the problems I have is if I make a small tray or coaster they can often end up with a wrinkled effect in the middle. I’m trying to be so careful with the mixing, temp control etc. What am I doing wrong? And how can I avoid this in the future?

  7. I own deadwood creations by haram meeker ,, I’m just starting to build with epoxy ,,,my first sale was a seven thousand dollar table,,, so I had a lot on the line ,,if I made one mistake it was going to cost me ,,, so I made a few small tables to test myself and that where perfect ,,dut this one was 16’ long and 5’ wide. Had a lot of problems ,,the wood would not take stain,,,,, I put a seal coat of epoxy on but had a few bubbles that followed me to the end no matter what I tried that just kept following me as I prod ,,so when I was done I drilled them all the way threw and filled the holes ,,this was a river table ,,, and it came out ok you can see them if you look hard but no one has to date and I stay in contact to make sure they are as happy as that say are Just found your site wish I had it before this table. Thanks and god bless

  8. I think a top one is that you must use PPE as eventually all resins will cause a reaction in some way. When I started I never knew about it until I specifically started to look and see if resin can cause reactions, low and behold.it is not uncommon.

  9. I have been covering acrylic artwork with resin but have a problem with the resin flowing over the sides and leaving the canvas exposed.

    1. Hi Marti, I cover my sides with tape if I don’t want to cover with resin, or I paint the sides black first (or continue my painting around the sides of the canvas) than allow the resin to flow over, smoothing with a flat stick or my hands. Cover the underside with tape also, I also cover the back with paper as well so it doesn’t get messy. I use very carpet tape or aluminium tape, some use masking but it can rip. Do you actually want the resin over the sides? Have enough clear to cover the sides plus the top then push it over, smooth and leave to dry remove about six hours later before resin is fully set for ease of removal or do it the following day, all drips will come off on the tape, then clean up the edges with a knife or sandpaper. You can always go back later and apply the clear resin with a foam brush if you want a smoother coating. If you get little ‘runs’ use a knife to remove, then repaint and recoat. Hope this helps, good luck!

  10. Not a reply, but a question: How do you build a resin dam? I’m using a hollowed out piece of wood and want to put “water” into the hollow, but don’t want the resin to run out of the bottom of the piece. Also, is it possible to pour an initial layer of doming resin and add a casting layer on top? Thank you for any advice you can offer.

    1. Hi Mary, you can apply tape to the bottom of your wood, then pour resin. Once the resin cures, peel off the tape. Yes, you can add casting resin to a layer of doming resin.

  11. Question not a reply…
    Haven’t started yet or purchased resin making products yet but I do wonder if your supposed to spray the molds with anything first or does the finished product really come out of those so easily like I see in videos

  12. I love all the details in your instructions. A few times almost as soon as I have wondered what would happen if… You say. It was almost like you were answering me. 😂♥️

  13. It’s quite discouraging to know my resin will yellow over time. I’ve been reading about it from your newsletter and wanted to make some crafts out of it to sell as centerpieces but hearing it will yellow over time has discouraged me as it will make me look like a fraud in the long run and considering how much will be paid for it , it has to last.

  14. I am a beginner. I don’t know … may I ask you – Why does a item I made dry but somewhere there is a small place that stay sticky?
    Thank you so so much

    Mercia

  15. Hello Katherine,
    I just purchased your book and really look forward to receiving it. I’m really interested in making jewelry and using resin for clear coating some projects. I enjoy reading all your comments and your articles. Thank you for your personable training.
    Joey

  16. Are their allergic reactions to resins? If so, what kinds of symptoms should I watch for and what happens. Is it safe to work with?

    Deb

  17. Hi, I’m a comparative newcomer to this type of resin. Am I correct in assuming that ArtResin is HALS ? I have been hunting through sites that served me well in the past, but it’s very confusing to try to get basic information about HALS, where to buy, or indeed any info, other than HALS are used to prevent yellowing on epoxy resin pieces

  18. hi i need some help i have started my little resin project and i want to focus mostly on creating small pouches and fans (which are quite thin 2mm) i am using this resin Dipoxy-2K-700
    I have noticed after several tries that even after repotting my fans or bag for a while, twist if I forget to put them in a good position. (Horizontal)
    Do you think I should change to a more powerful product or change the proportions I use (100ml / 50ml)? Do you have a brand to advise me thank you I really need help

  19. Hi I’m new to resin and I got some dice moulds. How do you pour into the molds. The lids are difficult to put back on with resin in and if I put the lids on and use a syringe I’m still getting holes where air is trapped in please advise

  20. I think so, it doesn’t say. It just says clear self leveling, 40 minutes work time. It has a picture of a dolphin on the bottle. Hope that helps work out which type of resin

  21. Hey I had to do a second coat of resin due to a lot of voids on a canvas. Sanded it back and cleaned it off with alcohol, poured the second coat and got voids again. Not sure where any contaminants would coke from as I also had gloves on and never touched the canvas after cleaning it. Thanks

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